Extremely high idle temps

[Edward686]

Specs:

7800x3d

Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360

32gb DDR5 6000 trident

b650i aorus ultra

corsair rm850e

Radeon 7800xt

 

In bios, CPU idles at ~99c. I applied a -20 curve offset, no change. Any tips?

[Edward686]

Also need to add - it occasionally crashes for apparently no reason.

[problemsolver]

On 12/29/2023 at 10:10 PM, Edward686 said:

Specs:

7800x3d

Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360

32gb DDR5 6000 trident

b650i aorus ultra

corsair rm850e

Radeon 7800xt

 

In bios, CPU idles at ~99c. I applied a -20 curve offset, no change. Any tips?

1. Verify pump is actually connected to the motherboard pump header and running (most likely issue)
2. Make sure you set the UEFI fan/pump header to pump if that's an option
3. Verify the fans are moving air over the radiator
4. If both things above have been verified... the cooling block is not mounted to the CPU and motherboard correctly
5. Undo the -20 curve offset, it can only cause issues (voltage is not the problem)
6. Since this is a new build, on a new platform, download Gigabyte Control Center and update all the things, it will avoid issues later

PAGE FROM MOTHERBOARD MANUAL TO VERIFY PUMP CONNECTIVITY (there's 3 versions of your motherboard, but it looks like it's the same manual for all 3)

Spoiler

 

[Edward686]

52 minutes ago, problemsolver said:

1. Verify pump is actually connected to the motherboard pump header and running (most likely issue)
2. Make sure you set the UEFI fan/pump header to pump if that's an option
3. Verify the fans are moving air over the radiator
4. If both things above have been verified... the cooling block is not mounted to the CPU and motherboard correctly
5. Undo the -20 curve offset, it can only cause issues (voltage is not the problem)
6. Since this is a new build, on a new platform, download Gigabyte Control Center and update all the things, it will avoid issues later

PAGE FROM MOTHERBOARD MANUAL TO VERIFY PUMP CONNECTIVITY (there's 3 versions of your motherboard, but it looks like it's the same manual for all 3)

  Reveal hidden contents

 

The issue was resolved - I unplugged the pump header cable, and it works now. Can you expand on what you mean by "it can only cause issues"?

[RONOTHAN##]

1 minute ago, Edward686 said:

Can you expand on what you mean by "it can only cause issues"?

They meant that it wouldn't help your temps that much, and it can have other unforeseen consequences that might've been hard to troubleshoot. 

 

If everything's working now, then you can mess with the curve optimizer. 

[problemsolver]

On 12/29/2023 at 11:46 PM, Edward686 said:

The issue was resolved - I unplugged the pump header cable, and it works now. Can you expand on what you mean by "it can only cause issues"?

TL;DR, if it was as easy as just setting -20 undervolt on all cores and you'd get cooler temps and high boost clocks... your CPU would come like that from the manufacturer.

 

The in-general advice you read on the internet that implies you can 'undervolt everything for magic lower temps and better performance' is very misleading.

• While under-volting is very popular, it almost always causes stability issues without proper stability testing (proper testing basically takes at least a week or more non-stop) as you'll see
• Just because Windows can still boot... that doesn't mean the computer is stable.
• But if the voltage is too low, it does mean the CPU will make arithmetic errors... which is not good.
• Game engines are particularly sensitive to bad math and provide very unpredictable loads to the CPU
• To verify whether a -20 undervolt across all cores is actually stable, you would need to use CoreCycler with a custom configuration file (To-date, I don't know of a single other tool that catches stability issues as reliably) Then, you'd need to run a 12-hour test on each core. So, you're looking at 4 days non-stop. Then you need to let the computer sit idle for many hours to see if crashes at idle. Then you need to test all-core loads and see if it crashes there.
• The chances of all 8 cores actually being stable with a -20 undervolted is slim (unless the motherboard is overvolting to start with). Remember that each CPU core is different based on the actual manufacturing. (Manufacturing silicon chips is partly art, so there is variance in every single core and chip.
• The motherboard, RAM, populated DIMM slots, VRMs, temperature and more are all factors that play into how much voltage the CPU core requires

Remember, you can run a CPU that's been undervolted and has arithmetic errors and may not notice anything. But that doesn't change the fact that the CPU is doing math incorrectly, and that you may get a surprise one day and do lots of troubleshooting only to discover if you turn off your undervolt it 'fixes everything'  You'll also notice the failure modes are unpredictable (I linked two above), and don't 'make sense' in the normal sense of the word.

[Edward686]

20 hours ago, problemsolver said:

1. Verify pump is actually connected to the motherboard pump header and running (most likely issue)
2. Make sure you set the UEFI fan/pump header to pump if that's an option
3. Verify the fans are moving air over the radiator
4. If both things above have been verified... the cooling block is not mounted to the CPU and motherboard correctly
5. Undo the -20 curve offset, it can only cause issues (voltage is not the problem)
6. Since this is a new build, on a new platform, download Gigabyte Control Center and update all the things, it will avoid issues later

PAGE FROM MOTHERBOARD MANUAL TO VERIFY PUMP CONNECTIVITY (there's 3 versions of your motherboard, but it looks like it's the same manual for all 3)

  Reveal hidden contents

 

It's back - no idea why. The cooler only has one header, and I've plugged it in to CPU fan - it doesnt fit in the optional slot. It seems that the pump isn't working, and I have no idea why.

[problemsolver]

5 hours ago, Edward686 said:

It's back - no idea why. The cooler only has one header, and I've plugged it in to CPU fan - it doesnt fit in the optional slot. It seems that the pump isn't working, and I have no idea why.

1. I'd use a rolled-up piece of paper as an hearing aid and see if you can hear the pump (might be difficult with that VRM fan making noise), but pumps are generally noisy. If you can't hear it at all or it sounds very slow/grindy, that would explain it.
2. The other possibility is that it's not mounted correctly and so it's not contacting the CPU heat spreader properly
3. Theoretically you could have some crazy air bubbles in the pump, but if the radiator is top mounted all the heat cycling should have allowed the bubbles to move upward to the radiator

[Edward686]

1 hour ago, problemsolver said:

1. I'd use a rolled-up piece of paper as a hearing aid and see if you can hear the pump (might be difficult with that VRM fan making noise), but pumps are generally noisy. If you can't hear it at all or it sounds very slow/grindy, that would explain it.
2. The other possibility is that it's not mounted correctly and so it's not contacting the CPU heat spreader properly
3. Theoretically you could have some crazy air bubbles in the pump, but if the radiator is top mounted all the heat cycles should have allowed the bubbles to move upward to the radiator

1. I don't hear anything apart from the fans - it might be there, but I can't hear it.

2. I pulled off the block and reapplied thermal paste, etc. no difference

 

I set system fan to voltage control (found a reference to this) and fans to full speed, no difference.

[problemsolver]

22 minutes ago, Edward686 said:

1. I don't hear anything apart from the fans - it might be there, but I can't hear it.

2. I pulled off the block and reapplied thermal paste, etc. no difference

 

I set system fan to voltage control (found a reference to this) and fans to full speed, no difference.

Sounds like a dead pump to me. You should be able to hear something if you've got everything maxxed out.
Probably should contact Artic Support

[Edward686]

On 12/30/2023 at 8:21 PM, problemsolver said:

Sounds like a dead pump to me. You should be able to hear something if you've got everything maxxed out.
Probably should contact Artic Support

Ok - now I’m just confused. I returned the old AIO and installed the new one, and the temps are still the same.

 

verified the following:

good contact between block and cpu

Fan header is plugged into the cpu_opt header

 

the only odd thing I can note is that a pump isn’t detected in the bios

[problemsolver]

8 hours ago, Edward686 said:

Ok - now I’m just confused. I returned the old AIO and installed the new one, and the temps are still the same.

 

verified the following:

good contact between block and cpu

Fan header is plugged into the cpu_opt header

 

the only odd thing I can note is that a pump isn’t detected in the bios

What did Artic Support say? They should be able to help you get it connected and configured properly.

Can you post HW Monitor temps from within Windows? Do they match the UEFI temps?

Can you take a picture of how you have everything connected?

[Edward686]

On 1/16/2024 at 5:12 PM, problemsolver said:

What did Artic Support say? They should be able to help you get it connected and configured properly.

Can you post HW Monitor temps from within Windows? Do they match the UEFI temps?

Can you take a picture of how you have everything connected?

I think I’ve solved it - it appears that the pump is connected as sys_fan_2, which doesn’t take cpu temps by default to regulate speed. The only downside to this is that the VRM fan tends to be quite loud

 

EDIT: This is not the case - the pump is actually still under CPU_Fan. This is my current issue - whenever I shut down the pc and start up again, it begins to overheat. Running CPU_Fan at full speed immediately solves the issue, and I afterwards, I can return the CPU_Fan to run normally without issues. What's causing this?

[Edward686]

 

On 1/16/2024 at 5:12 PM, problemsolver said:

What did Artic Support say? They should be able to help you get it connected and configured properly.

Can you post HW Monitor temps from within Windows? Do they match the UEFI temps?

Can you take a picture of how you have everything connected?

More clarification - it appears that I need to run BOTH CPU_Fan and Sys_fan at full speed to get to temps to go down, but they go down very fast after that.

[problemsolver]

On 1/20/2024 at 11:50 AM, Edward686 said:

EDIT: This is not the case - the pump is actually still under CPU_Fan. This is my current issue - whenever I shut down the pc and start up again, it begins to overheat. Running CPU_Fan at full speed immediately solves the issue, and I afterwards, I can return the CPU_Fan to run normally without issues. What's causing this?

Couldn't tell you. Without pictures of how you have everything connected, I would just be making stuff up and guessing.

[Edward686]

26 minutes ago, problemsolver said:

Couldn't tell you. Without pictures of how you have everything connected, I would just be making stuff up and guessing.

Cable in center is the pump/fan header being routed to CPU_FAN header

[problemsolver]

Disclaimer: This is my 666th post... soooo if it's completely wrong, figures

1. Your motherboard manual makes no mention of a SYS_FAN_2. Did you post the correct motherboard model in your OP? The picture looks like it's the same model, but just clarifying
2. I don't think your pump is mounted to the CPU properly. That is the only logical explanation for the SYS_FAN having any bearing on CPU temp (it shouldn't affect temps, regardless of what you set it at). Found a video that seems to show mounting quite well. There's also version-specific videos made by Artic themselves here.
3. Did you mount the radiator in the bottom of the case or something? If so, you've very likely got air bubbles at the copper water block and so cooling will be severely impacted. This is clearly stated in the installation instructions.
4. It looks like you correctly used the offset mounts (indicated as #2 holes in the installation instructions) but also hard to tell from that photo. I can only verify the top ones are installed correctly.

5. Can you post HW Monitor temps from within Windows? Do they match the UEFI temps? (I've now asked this twice)

The motherboard manual clearly lays out the 3 fan headers as indicated below. The UEFI will control them exactly as they are labeled... if you have the pump plugged into CPU_FAN, than in the UEFI, CPU_FAN settings will control the entire Artic radiator, pump fans VRM etc. The photo you took, doesn't really help as it doesn't show the entire motherboard and everything connected, but regardless, clearly there's some confusion on what's connected where.

 

So, I will take a guess: You have one standard PC fan (an exhaust fan I'm guessing) and your radiator/fan/pump combo. If that is the case, leave your pump setup as it is (connected to CPU_FAN), and connect the other fan (the exhaust fan) to SYS_FAN. If the fan connected to SYS_FAN has a 4-pin connector, set it to PWM and set whatever fan curve you want. It should likely always be running to move excess heat out the back of the case.

 

To configure the pump follow the instructions straight from Arctic's website below:

• In your case, you will want to set it as PWM (not DC!)

Source: (from Arctic's Website under Tech Specs)

Spoiler

 

Standard Fan Curve Configuration for Gigabyte Motherboards, straight from Arctic's Website

Spoiler

 

Motherboard Manual Fan Headers

Spoiler

 

If none of this helps, I again recommend contacting Artic Support

[Edward686]

On 1/21/2024 at 7:17 PM, problemsolver said:

Disclaimer: This is my 666th post... soooo if it's completely wrong, figures

1. Your motherboard manual makes no mention of a SYS_FAN_2. Did you post the correct motherboard model in your OP? The picture looks like it's the same model, but just clarifying
2. I don't think your pump is mounted to the CPU properly. That is the only logical explanation for the SYS_FAN having any bearing on CPU temp (it shouldn't affect temps, regardless of what you set it at). Found a video that seems to show mounting quite well. There's also version-specific videos made by Artic themselves here.
3. Did you mount the radiator in the bottom of the case or something? If so, you've very likely got air bubbles at the copper water block and so cooling will be severely impacted. This is clearly stated in the installation instructions.
4. It looks like you correctly used the offset mounts (indicated as #2 holes in the installation instructions) but also hard to tell from that photo. I can only verify the top ones are installed correctly.

5. Can you post HW Monitor temps from within Windows? Do they match the UEFI temps? (I've now asked this twice)

The motherboard manual clearly lays out the 3 fan headers as indicated below. The UEFI will control them exactly as they are labeled... if you have the pump plugged into CPU_FAN, than in the UEFI, CPU_FAN settings will control the entire Artic radiator, pump fans VRM etc. The photo you took, doesn't really help as it doesn't show the entire motherboard and everything connected, but regardless, clearly there's some confusion on what's connected where.

 

So, I will take a guess: You have one standard PC fan (an exhaust fan I'm guessing) and your radiator/fan/pump combo. If that is the case, leave your pump setup as it is (connected to CPU_FAN), and connect the other fan (the exhaust fan) to SYS_FAN. If the fan connected to SYS_FAN has a 4-pin connector, set it to PWM and set whatever fan curve you want. It should likely always be running to move excess heat out the back of the case.

 

To configure the pump follow the instructions straight from Arctic's website below:

• In your case, you will want to set it as PWM (not DC!)

Source: (from Arctic's Website under Tech Specs)

  Reveal hidden contents

 

Standard Fan Curve Configuration for Gigabyte Motherboards, straight from Arctic's Website

  Reveal hidden contents

 

Motherboard Manual Fan Headers

  Reveal hidden contents

 

If none of this helps, I again recommend contacting Artic Support

Setting it to PWM fixed it. Thanks!