Jump to content

Why is my computer screwing up my Nintendo Switch audio when it's powered off?

LloydLynx

When I sway "switch", I mean the circuit kind of switch. When I say "Nintendo", I mean the Nintendo Switch console. Make sense? Continue reading.

 

I have a home made USB switch that switches a DAC between the Nintendo and the PC. Here's the schematic.

Spoiler

IMG_0023.JPG.5c3579e731566f8e4ba2f31621cdbca8.JPG

The Issue:

The Nintendo's audio sounds like bit rot if the PC is powered off and the switch is going to the Nintendo. When I unplug the USB from the computer or turn the computer on, the Nintendo's audio then works fine.

The reverse is not true when the PC is playing audio and the Nintendo is off.

Something about the computer being turned off but still physically connected is screwing up the USB signal, but why?

 

 

lumpy chunks

 

Expand to help Bunny reach world domination

(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy Bunny into your signature to
(")_(") help him on his way to world domination.

 -Rakshit Jain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, LloydLynx said:

When I sway "switch", I mean the circuit kind of switch. When I say "Nintendo", I mean the Nintendo Switch console. Make sense? Continue reading.

 

I have a home made USB switch that switches a DAC between the Nintendo and the PC. Here's the schematic.

  Reveal hidden contents

IMG_0023.JPG.5c3579e731566f8e4ba2f31621cdbca8.JPG

The Issue:

The Nintendo's audio sounds like bit rot if the PC is powered off and the switch is going to the Nintendo. When I unplug the USB from the computer or turn the computer on, the Nintendo's audio then works fine.

The reverse is not true when the PC is playing audio and the Nintendo is off.

Something about the computer being turned off but still physically connected is screwing up the USB signal, but why?

 

 

You've probably created a ground issue as the Switch has no real ground, but the PC does.  You need to switch EVERY line and it be a really good quality switch that isn't going to cause any signal leakage.

This is not simple, I had a lot of problems with HDMI switches in the past because they weren't good enough.  It tends to be the active ones that work best as manual switching can causes losses and interference.  Not sure how USB ones usually do it, I've avoided them for this reason.

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz)
WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz) Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~800Mbit down, 115Mbit up)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

You also didn`t switch the -Data line. The switched off computer might mess with that. I would keep the ground connection if neccessary, but if possible, switch all of the connections.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×