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MoCA filter needed with this setup?

LLLLets_Shadles
Go to solution Solved by NobleGamer,

Filter is only needed if COAX-only line/routes go back to the ISP, which they do not in your case.

 

If you don't want to have to deal with MoCA (which is usually plug & play but some people dont like having an extra device to plugin), one possible shot at avoiding this would be to hope that the ethernet issue is only at one or both ends of the ethernet, and learning how to re-crimp or re-termiante at the ends. Might be relatively simple if the wires were simply punched down into a wall jack (typically called keystone connector) on either end as opposed to the wire crimped onto plastic connectors.

Question: Do I need a MoCA filter using this setup? Can MoCA escape through the ethernet connected to the first MoCA adapter and out the ISP coax through my router?

Long story short we just had our basement finished and the guy didn't do what he was supposed to; we found out our original ethernet run in the basement ceiling to the living room TV area had some sort of faulty wiring and could only get 10 Mbps on the other side if it worked at all (it was only connected to a pc we don't use often so either no one noticed or his crew broke something or idk, whatever it doesn't work now). He didn't fix this like we asked and has ghosted us for a while now on other stuff he left unfinished/never followed up on.

There's no real way to fix or even rerun new cable without cutting up some brand new ceiling, but instead of directly using the ethernet I was thinking we could use the existing coax that was run for a cable box (that we don't have anymore) via MoCA to get wired internet back to the entertainment center.

So going back to the question, do I need a MoCA filter (which I'm 90% sure we don't have, there's an attenuator but no PoE filter, and I heard can cause loss of performance) for this isolated coax cable run that will only be doing this one thing and has no connection to the outside other than the ethernet connection to the router?  If it matters at all we have Xfinity internet that directly goes into our Netgear C7800 router/modem no splitters, nothing.

MoCA.png

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3 minutes ago, LLLLets_Shadles said:

So going back to the question, do I need a MoCA filter (which I'm 90% sure we don't have, there's an attenuator but no PoE filter, and I heard can cause loss of performance) for this isolated coax cable run that will only be doing this one thing and has no connection to the outside other than the ethernet connection to the router? 

No. 

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Network:

Spoiler
                           ┌─────────────── Office/Rack ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
Google Fiber Webpass ────── UniFi Security Gateway ─── UniFi Switch 8-60W ─┬─ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Veda (Proxmox Virtual Switch)
(500Mbps↑/500Mbps↓)                             UniFi CloudKey Gen2 (PoE) ─┴─ Veda (IPMI)           ╠═ Veda-NAS (HW Passthrough NIC)
╔═══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════╩═ Narrative (Asus USB 2.5G NIC)
║ ┌────── Closet ──────┐   ┌─────────────── Bedroom ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
╚═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╤═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Byarlant
   (PoE)                 │                        ╠═ Narrative (Cable Matters USB-PD 2.5G Ethernet Dongle)
                         │                        ╚═ Jesta Cannon*
                         │ ┌─────────────── Media Center ──────────────────────────────────┐
Notes:                   └─ UniFi Switch 8 ─────────┬─ UniFi Access Point nanoHD (PoE)
═══ is Multi-Gigabit                                ├─ Sony Playstation 4 
─── is Gigabit                                      ├─ Pioneer VSX-S520
* = cable passed to Bedroom from Media Center       ├─ Sony XR65A80K (Google TV)
** = cable passed from Media Center to Bedroom      └─ Work Laptop** (Startech USB-PD Dock)

Retired/Other:

Spoiler

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Filter is only needed if COAX-only line/routes go back to the ISP, which they do not in your case.

 

If you don't want to have to deal with MoCA (which is usually plug & play but some people dont like having an extra device to plugin), one possible shot at avoiding this would be to hope that the ethernet issue is only at one or both ends of the ethernet, and learning how to re-crimp or re-termiante at the ends. Might be relatively simple if the wires were simply punched down into a wall jack (typically called keystone connector) on either end as opposed to the wire crimped onto plastic connectors.

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16 hours ago, NobleGamer said:

Filter is only needed if COAX-only line/routes go back to the ISP, which they do not in your case.

 

If you don't want to have to deal with MoCA (which is usually plug & play but some people dont like having an extra device to plugin), one possible shot at avoiding this would be to hope that the ethernet issue is only at one or both ends of the ethernet, and learning how to re-crimp or re-termiante at the ends. Might be relatively simple if the wires were simply punched down into a wall jack (typically called keystone connector) on either end as opposed to the wire crimped onto plastic connectors.

thanks both of you for confirming my suspicions, google is useless since the whole first page of results is just you need this, 100% even with added question context.

As far as trying the simple re-terminating fix I did try that but no dice. Another snag here is that the electrician that installed the ethernet run (as a part of a whole hanging a new TV and having those cables hidden in the wall thing) used 2 cables with a coupler so who knows if the 2 other terminations are actually correct or matching or what. My mom really knows how to pick the good contractors 🫠.

Again everything is kind of working against us here, I could just get some raceways to hide a new ethernet run (the tv and router are max 15 feet apart) but there is a fireplace between the router and the tv is so it's not as nice as hiding it along normal floor molding.
The MoCA solution seems to be the only one that doesn't affect looks or anything and isn't annoying like having to cut up the new ceiling to fix it the way I would ideally want to

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9 hours ago, LLLLets_Shadles said:

google is useless since the whole first page of results is just you need this, 100% even with added question context.

That because many articles assume or briefly reference homes that receive internet via coax and/or some modems supports outgoing MoCA (not just the inbound from Telcom that gives the net connection) which yes in both cases you'd 100% need the filter for.

 

9 hours ago, LLLLets_Shadles said:

there is a fireplace between the router and the tv is so it's not as nice as hiding it along normal floor molding.

15 feet practically guarantees 5 GHz reception from the router barring any other interference, so I don't blame you for not wiring this more.

 

If you or others are curious what it might take in-wall heres what I had to do to run cables to a TV above my fireplace with drywall above the mantle and to the sides of the fireplace - Do at your own risk:

  • Cut two drywall holes for where the cable inlet covers would be. Mine were power outlet & cable hole hybrids.
  • Find the vertical stud on the side where the cable will come from
  • Determine what vertical height you want the cable to enter the fireplace...column I'll call it, which for me was between 2 studs
  • Cut a small section of drywall at that vertical height and horizontally just outside or inside the vertical stud (whatever is easiest for feeding a cable tube and replacing drywall)
  • Determine the size hole you need for your cable tube (I used ENT, aka smurf tube) based on your current & future cable sizes
  • Check building code for the largest hole you can drill for your given wood stud type (vertical, double layered, etc). If this is not large enough for your cable tube size, then stop, this won't work for you legally, and practically you don't want to make too big a hole unless you can shore up the stud.
  • Definitely get a hole saw for 1 inch or wider. Bore drill bit might be OK for smaller holes.
  • Feed the tube between the two cable inlets, and if possible find a way to secure each end of the tube to where you want them behind the cable inlets
  • Feed cables through tube
  • Replace drywall where you drilled, and enjoy in-wall cables
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On 9/26/2023 at 5:56 PM, NobleGamer said:

That because many articles assume or briefly reference homes that receive internet via coax and/or some modems supports outgoing MoCA (not just the inbound from Telcom that gives the net connection) which yes in both cases you'd 100% need the filter for.

 

15 feet practically guarantees 5 GHz reception from the router barring any other interference, so I don't blame you for not wiring this more.

Also ironically, WiFi can often be faster on TVs as they often only have 100Mbit ethernet ports.  Granted, they only NEED 100Mbit as the video decoders usually top out at that bitrate.

 

Of course with a house full of WiFi devices this can still be a problem if everything else is eating all the bandwidth.

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz)
WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz) Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~800Mbit down, 115Mbit up)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

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