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Just asking to make sure. I assume it’s okay if I have a cooler master 650W gold 80+ psu and pcpartpicker says my pc’s estimated wattage is 519W (with absolutely every components). (I did the math myself with all components wattage and it came out to about 540W max)  Just trying to see if i can run all the fans I want in my new case setup. I am not wanting buy another psu since I recently purchased the one I have.  

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13 minutes ago, mayzejack said:

Just asking to make sure. I assume it’s okay if I have a cooler master 650W gold 80+ psu and pcpartpicker says my pc’s estimated wattage is 519W (with absolutely every components). Just trying to see if i can run all the fans I want in my new case setup. I am not wanting buy another psu since I recently purchased the one I have.  

Not entirely sure which exact model it is based on description, but I can tell you that my 550W seasonic has run very close to the rated 550w for extended periods before without anything bad. So long as it is a quality PSU, you should be totally fine. 

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6 minutes ago, BiotechBen said:

Not entirely sure which exact model it is based on description, but I can tell you that my 550W seasonic has run very close to the rated 550w for extended periods before without anything bad. So long as it is a quality PSU, you should be totally fine. 

It’s the cooler master 650W gold v2. An A-Tier psu according to cultists network. 

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1 hour ago, mayzejack said:

Just asking to make sure. I assume it’s okay if I have a cooler master 650W gold 80+ psu and pcpartpicker says my pc’s estimated wattage is 519W (with absolutely every components). (I did the math myself with all components wattage and it came out to about 540W max)  Just trying to see if i can run all the fans I want in my new case setup. I am not wanting buy another psu since I recently purchased the one I have.  

There are several concerns for buying PSU capacity

Although it's nice not to buy overspec PSU, and LTT has covered on forcing almost matching capacity of Seasonic PSU and power requirement, there are reasons why GPU manufacturer almost always recommend going much higher capacity

 

Firstly, to protect against 'Transients power spike', it usually happened in microseconds (μs) when going for high FPS and top tier GPU

The spike could go as high as 2x the GPU TDP, but certain PSU can still handle it, that's why for small headroom of capacity, it's better to check on detail analysis from Gamers Nexus and other credible reviews.

Secondly, depending on future building/upgrade, it's better to buy a bit bigger capacity so that in next upgrade, you won't have to replace your PSU

Cable management is quite a nightmare, especially plugging out all of the cables and reinsert all of the new ones

 

There's no good general rule of thumb of how much headroom for certain PC build yet, maybe it will be if the proposal from Gamers Nexus and others to change/improve the current rating system (80+ Gold, platinum, etc) to a system that we actually need to use

 

 But, as long as you buy from reputable brand, and generous 20% headroom (please don't hold me liable if it failed, pretty please), you should be doing fine

My System: Ryzen 7800X3D // Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX // 32GB 6000MHz DDR5 Silicon Power Zenith CL30 // Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon RX 7900 XT OC with mod heatsink on the metal plate  // Phanteks P300A  // Gigabyte Aorus GEN4 7300 PCIE 4.0 NVME // Kingston NV2 Gen4 PCIE 4.0 NVME // 

Seasonic Focus GX-850 Fully Modular // Thermalright Frost Spirit 140 Black V3 // Phanteks M25 140mm // Display: Bezel 32MD845 V2 QHD // Keychron K8 Pro (Mod: Gateron black box ink; Tape mode on PCB and Keycaps) // Razer Cobra Wired Mouse // Audio Technica M50X Headphone // Sennheiser HD 650 // Genius SP-HF180 USB Speaker //

 

And Laptop Acer Nitro 5 AN515-45 for mobility

Phone:

iPhone 11 (with battery replaced instead of buying new phone for long term and not submitting (fully) to Apple Lord

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