Logitech Mouse Clicking Issues

Ian D · April 25, 2023

I have a Logitech G903 SE that is having a lot of issues with detecting clicks and/or double-clicking on a single click. I usually use the proprietary Logitech wireless charging mousepad, but I've tried a dongle and a wired connection to no avail. I've had the mouse for a while and this just started around a month or so ago, so my first thought was the sensor is going bad or has some corrosion. However, I am having the same issue with both the left and right mouse buttons. I've also tried it on a different computer and I'm not having any issues. This all started happening roughly around the same time I downloaded some software for a drawing tablet so I took a complete shot in the dark thinking maybe there was some weird Windows pen thing interfering, but from what I can tell, I've disabled all of that and I'm still having the issue. I do a lot of 3D modeling work and this is completely wrecking my workflow, I do not want to buy another expensive mouse, please help.

Edit: The issue is most common when dragging and clicking. Interference Issue?

OhioYJ · April 25, 2023

Most likely you are looking at switch failures. It's likely just a coincidence that both buttons failed so close together. Most mice use the same switches. I've replaced the switches in all my Logitech mice here at the house, 4 total now actually. If you search, you'll find it's a fairly common "complaint" usually associated with Logitech mice, but actually as mentioned, most mice use similar switches, or the exact same ones. Usually it's a double click, or it drops things, as it stops registering the click, which is what you are describing.

If you want to eliminate the OS / Software, you could boot up Linux from a USB and see if you have the same problem in something like Linux mint. I would bet you do.

This image was taken from one of my G502 SE:

The switches themselves are pretty easy to swap, but it does require soldering. They are just through hole. The switches themselves, are cheap. Even nicer ones than what came in the mouse are only a couple bucks each, but then add shipping. Plus you'll likely want to replace the skates on the bottom (you can get them off and reuse them if you heat them, but I would recommend having new). All in you'll likely have about $20-25 in parts once shipping and tax is included. Which is annoying for some switches that cost $2 each for the nice ones.

The good news is, I haven't had any failures since I "upgraded" my mice with the nice "Japanese" switches. Now I'll go find some wood to knock on....

OhioYJ · April 25, 2023

Briefly searching, looks like you may have the option to replace your switches as a module, if you can't solder... You'll be stuck with whatever switch comes on that module, instead of getting to choose your own switch though. However, that may be an option for you if the de-soldering / soldering concerns you.

m1lk3y · April 25, 2023

38 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

Most likely you are looking at switch failures. It's likely just a coincidence that both buttons failed so close together. Most mice use the same switches. I've replaced the switches in all my Logitech mice here at the house, 4 total now actually. If you search, you'll find it's a fairly common "complaint" usually associated with Logitech mice, but actually as mentioned, most mice use similar switches, or the exact same ones. Usually it's a double click, or it drops things, as it stops registering the click, which is what you are describing.

If you want to eliminate the OS / Software, you could boot up Linux from a USB and see if you have the same problem in something like Linux mint. I would bet you do.

This image was taken from one of my G502 SE:

The switches themselves are pretty easy to swap, but it does require soldering. They are just through hole. The switches themselves, are cheap. Even nicer ones than what came in the mouse are only a couple bucks each, but then add shipping. Plus you'll likely want to replace the skates on the bottom (you can get them off and reuse them if you heat them, but I would recommend having new). All in you'll likely have about $20-25 in parts once shipping and tax is included. Which is annoying for some switches that cost $2 each for the nice ones.

The good news is, I haven't had any failures since I "upgraded" my mice with the nice "Japanese" switches. Now I'll go find some wood to knock on....

You know, I clicked this post just to see what had been said, as I assumed it was probably switch failure just from reading the title and I'm glad I did. I currently use a G502 wireless (that was an upgrade from my failing wired G502 due to double clicking and such) and honestly had no idea you could do this. I don't have much skill with soldering but if it's just through hole I imagine I can probably take care of it fairly easily. Then I'll have 2 mice to use! Thanks!

OhioYJ · April 25, 2023

8 hours ago, m1lk3y said:

I don't have much skill with soldering but if it's just through hole I imagine I can probably take care of it fairly easily. Then I'll have 2 mice to use! Thanks!

It's really not bad. If you don't have much soldering experience, flux will help. Just try and clean it off good when done.

These are my notes on the switches (I used the D2F-F in mine G500, G502SE) (I don't have a 902, so double check these part numbers):

Quote

D2F-F - 0.7n force, 3a rating, Omron - "Stock swtich" (Japan Made)

D2F-01FL30 - 0.7n force, 100 mA rating, Omron rating (had to order FL30 version only one in stock)
(also Japan made)

DG13-B1AA - 1.4n force, 3a rating, "Cherry"

Some of them you might find say come with a lever, like my notes above. That FL30 one I had to order as it was the only one they had in stock at the time. I just removed the lever, it pops right off. There are quite a few options in mice switches actually, and brand options. So you might look around and see what you think you would like. As it's almost like keyboard switches, there's tons of options.