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PC wont boot and cant install new windows after installing a new GPU

Recently my GPU started artifacting soo I was on a hunt for a new one.

To be clear the PC could still boot and everything worked perfectly aside from the graphics.

I had a rx470 4gb and a few days ago I bought a GTX 1660 super (I'm 14 soo that's the best I can get)

After I got the new GPU I installed it and turned on the PC hoping that I would play some games.

I got the bios screen but after that just a white underscore flashing at the top of the screen and then just black.

So I restarted the PC but still the same thing was happening.

I checked if I installed the GPU correctly in to the PCIe slot.

I even unplugged the SATA connectors into different slots that weren't in the way of the GPU.

Later I put the old GPU in just to see if it was because of the bad GPU or something but still the same white underscore flashing a couple of times and then just black.

I reset the BIOS I checked the boot settings.

Then I just gave up and put media installation tool on a USB and tried to install fresh windows 10.

When I booted form the UEFI one I got a windows logo and the USB was flashing. I thought I had it, that I fixed the problem.

But no, the logo was in a broken resolution it was wide, and I had no white dots spinning. I waited for 2 hours just to see if it was cuz my pc is slow.

But still nothing.

I couldn't go into safe boot, f8 didn't do anything just heard some clicking form the motherboard speaker, and restarting the pc didn't do anything to get to automatic repair.

I tried different configs of the RAM even tho the bios was showing all 16gb of it.

I tried the diagnostic tool for CPU, RAM and storage and it didn't show any problems.

I reset the CMOS battery but still no luck.

I plugged in the USB drive into different ports even into the one on the motherboard.

I then tried to use the internal graphics but when it booted the bios looked ok but the windows logo was in thin vertical strips across the top of the screen.

 

here are my specs

CPU: i5-4590

GPU: Palit 1660 super

RAM: 16gb ddr3 Kingston (don't know the speed)

MOBO: Fujitsu D3231-S1x 

PSU: Hexa+ pro 600w

SSD: Sandisk x300

HDD: some generic 500gb one

 

I bought the pc from some sketchy guy. He works in a company as IT and just takes old MOBOs and CPUs and buys some cheap GPU and sells it on FB.

 

Please help me I have been without a gaming pc for more then a month I'm starting to go crazy.

(btw sorry for any grammatical errors English is not my native language)

 

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The black line after the bios/boot screen means - the boot device can not be laoded (meaning a dead drive or, rarely, a plugged-in flash drive prevents the OS from loading).

Does the bios see all your drives? What happens when you try installing Windows (a clean install), on the step where you choose the drives/partitions where you want the install?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Well I have no idea how everything is plugged in , but , You can try and , uninstall the drivers with no gpu in , and try again , or reinstall windows with no gpu installed , then install it and see if that works , You can Also try to put the gpu in another pcie slot? if you have any? but since the internal graphics give problems , No idea what could happen.

I had the same problem like 6 years ago with an AMD videocard , but it turned out that the MOBO was dead-ish and it still kinda worked sometimes but it would boot loop and give no image.

If you have any friends with a similar mobo you can check the CPU there , also check the gpu if it works before buying a new mobo. If return policies are good in your country, you can buy and return it in 14 days .

Lemme know if you fix it . 😄

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14 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

The black line after the bios/boot screen means - the boot device can not be laoded (meaning a dead drive or, rarely, a plugged-in flash drive prevents the OS from loading).

Does the bios see all your drives? What happens when you try installing Windows (a clean install), on the step where you choose the drives/partitions where you want the install?

The thing is on the windows install I cant even get past the first windows logo loading screen.

In bios it shows both drives but when i select the ssd where my old windows download is i dont get anything

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14 minutes ago, Xlcoj said:

Well I have no idea how everything is plugged in , but , You can try and , uninstall the drivers with no gpu in , and try again , or reinstall windows with no gpu installed , then install it and see if that works , You can Also try to put the gpu in another pcie slot? if you have any? but since the internal graphics give problems , No idea what could happen.

I had the same problem like 6 years ago with an AMD videocard , but it turned out that the MOBO was dead-ish and it still kinda worked sometimes but it would boot loop and give no image.

If you have any friends with a similar mobo you can check the CPU there , also check the gpu if it works before buying a new mobo. If return policies are good in your country, you can buy and return it in 14 days .

Lemme know if you fix it . 😄

Ye I even disassembled and reassembled the whole pc just to be sure that every connector is connected.

And like I said I cant access windows in any way. Another PCIe slot but i cant plug in the gpu there cuz it collides with the sata connectors 

 

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10 minutes ago, kekimirovic said:

The thing is on the windows install I cant even get past the first windows logo loading screen.

In bios it shows both drives but when i select the ssd where my old windows download is i dont get anything

Try disconnecting all the drives and then starting the Windows installation just to check if it will proceed to the next screen.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Just now, 191x7 said:

Try disconnecting all the drives and then starting the Windows installation just to check if it will proceed to the next screen.

Already tried that still no luck. Now the question is should I still get a lga1150 or should I upgrade to something newer that's at least ddr4 and like 6+ gen 

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41 minutes ago, kekimirovic said:

Already tried that still no luck. Now the question is should I still get a lga1150 or should I upgrade to something newer that's at least ddr4 and like 6+ gen 

Yeah, you are looking in the right direction, your motherboard is probably dead.

 

Zen 3 is budget friendly, probably the best parts that one can get for cheap. For example, a Ryzen 5 5500 paired with a B450 board and 2x8GB ddr4 3200, that's less than 300€ new...

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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On 1/1/2023 at 3:42 PM, 191x7 said:

Yeah, you are looking in the right direction, your motherboard is probably dead.

 

Zen 3 is budget friendly, probably the best parts that one can get for cheap. For example, a Ryzen 5 5500 paired with a B450 board and 2x8GB ddr4 3200, that's less than 300€ new...

so i bought a new lga1150 board but still no luck now it just flashes the windows logo and goes back to the motherboard logo

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1 hour ago, kekimirovic said:

so i bought a new lga1150 board but still no luck now it just flashes the windows logo and goes back to the motherboard logo

And what happens when you try to install Windows, not boot the old ones?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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