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[SOLVED] Black screen and fans speed up when under load

Kitskaiscute
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SOLVED

This fixed it for ME. This might or might not work you so keep that in mind:

Tip: Having another GPU to change out the problematic one helped a lot because It let me do things instead of crashing my computer every 3 minutes while I'm trying to fix it, but if you don't have one, hope it can get into safe mode (you need to for the DDU).

 

I did 2 things, but I don't know which one fixed it so try both just to be sure. I downloaded a DDU (display driver uninstaller) and uninstalled all my NVIDA driver (the problematic GPU) and then I turned off my pc, plugged in the NVIDIA one back in and downloaded all the drivers again and that seemed to fix it. Another thing I did was a updated all my drivers for my motherboard (Chipset, LAN, etc...) and that might of also fixed it.

Hope this helped and thank you to @191x7 for all the help. 

 

My computer has run into the problem were when I run a heavy games like call of duty or god of war, the screen will instantly go to black and the fans on my gpu will start spinning at high rmps, but the computer itself is still on (gpu rgb and motherboard light is on) and I turn it back on by pressing the restart button on the case. Games like overwatch run fine and don’t cause the issue to happen. The problem also happens when I’m not even playing games, it will just randomly happen while I’m doing something. I’ve tried multiple solutions online, which non have worked so I’m going here for help. Somebody told me to repair windows in the cmd and it worked for like 4 hours but then the problem came back. I’ve also heard that other people have been having this problem recently and that it’s a new issue that has been coming up for people. The pc is virtually unusable so It would be great if someone could help me. 
 

Intel i5 9400F 2.9GHz 6-core CPU

Gigabyte B365M DS3H Micro ATX Mother board

Adata XPG Z1 (2x8gb) 3000mhz ram

Kingston A400 240gb SSD

EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 GPU

CoolerMaster Masterbox TD500

Thermaltake Smart Pro RGB 850w 80+ Bronze PSU

Windows 10, 64 bit

 

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Stop.

It is most probably a heat dissapation issue.

One or more of the Heat sinks on one of the chips on the main board or GPU are not properly connected.

You may need to disassemble repair and then reassemble some components inside the computer to fix the issue.

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5 minutes ago, tjb-703 said:

Stop.

It is most probably a heat dissapation issue.

One or more of the Heat sinks on one of the chips on the main board or GPU are not properly connected.

You may need to disassemble some components inside to computer to fix the issue.

my GPU runs at pretty low temps, it runs at around 58c when running games 

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28 minutes ago, Kitskaiscute said:

my GPU runs at pretty low temps, it runs at around 58c when running games 

It does because it's severely bottlenecked by your low end CPU.

 

How do your CPU temperatures behave under load?

Is the PC clean?

 

Using the latest BIOS?

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B365M-DS3H-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios

 

Checked the disk health using something like Hard Disk Sentinel or Crystal Disk Info?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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10 hours ago, 191x7 said:

It does because it's severely bottlenecked by your low end CPU.

 

How do your CPU temperatures behave under load?

Is the PC clean?

 

Using the latest BIOS?

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B365M-DS3H-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios

 

Checked the disk health using something like Hard Disk Sentinel or Crystal Disk Info?

1) does that mean I will have to upgrade to prevent the problem from happening again 

2) I haven’t checked cpu temps in a good bit but I can assume that it runs average cause my pc doesn’t get hot overall

 

3) do you mean by dust wise clean or clean from malware, but it’s both dust clean and malware clean

 

4) I think so, because when I go to device manager and update my bios driver it says that it’s up to date

 

5)I haven’t checked my disk health

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55 minutes ago, Kitskaiscute said:

1) does that mean I will have to upgrade to prevent the problem from happening again 

2) I haven’t checked cpu temps in a good bit but I can assume that it runs average cause my pc doesn’t get hot overall

 

3) do you mean by dust wise clean or clean from malware, but it’s both dust clean and malware clean

 

4) I think so, because when I go to device manager and update my bios driver it says that it’s up to date

 

5)I haven’t checked my disk health

1. If you want to decrease the bottleneck, you need to upgrade. At this state, your 2080 performs similarly to a 2060 up to a 2070 based on how the Game can use the CPU.

 

2. HWMonitor, OpenHardwareMonitor, HWInfo64

Stress Test: OCCT (cpu), prime95 (cpu&ram), FurMark (gpu), MSI Kombustor (gpu)

 

3. I meant dust and such.

 

4. You can't check or update the BIOS using the device manager. Drivers maybe, Bios no. Please follow the manufacturers guide, I gave you the Bios page links.

You can check your Bios version in the Bios or using tools like CPU-Z, Aida64, Speccy.

 

5. Please do so. 

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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37 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

1. If you want to decrease the bottleneck, you need to upgrade. At this state, your 2080 performs similarly to a 2060 up to a 2070 based on how the Game can use the CPU.

 

2. HWMonitor, OpenHardwareMonitor, HWInfo64

Stress Test: OCCT (cpu), prime95 (cpu&ram), FurMark (gpu), MSI Kombustor (gpu)

 

3. I meant dust and such.

 

4. You can't check or update the BIOS using the device manager. Drivers maybe, Bios no. Please follow the manufacturers guide, I gave you the Bios page links.

You can check your Bios version in the Bios or using tools like CPU-Z, Aida64, Speccy.

 

5. Please do so. 

Ok I’ll try these things and I’ll get back to you if they worked or not 

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9 hours ago, 191x7 said:

1. If you want to decrease the bottleneck, you need to upgrade. At this state, your 2080 performs similarly to a 2060 up to a 2070 based on how the Game can use the CPU.

 

2. HWMonitor, OpenHardwareMonitor, HWInfo64

Stress Test: OCCT (cpu), prime95 (cpu&ram), FurMark (gpu), MSI Kombustor (gpu)

 

3. I meant dust and such.

 

4. You can't check or update the BIOS using the device manager. Drivers maybe, Bios no. Please follow the manufacturers guide, I gave you the Bios page links.

You can check your Bios version in the Bios or using tools like CPU-Z, Aida64, Speccy.

 

5. Please do so. 

i can confirm that my cpu temps run low because I used open hardware moniter and both my disks are healthy, but now ive run into a problem with updating my bios. When I go to restart to go into bios setup, my main monitor loses signal and my secondary monitor still has signal, but it's a black screen. This stays like this for 10-15 minutes and then it turns back on. When it goes back on it loads through the bios mode selector and I spam click DELETE to get into bios setup, but nothing happens, it just goes to the log in window. I've tried going through the UEFI firmare route, but that also doesnt work and it does the same thing.

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26 minutes ago, Kitskaiscute said:

i can confirm that my cpu temps run low because I used open hardware moniter and both my disks are healthy, but now ive run into a problem with updating my bios. When I go to restart to go into bios setup, my main monitor loses signal and my secondary monitor still has signal, but it's a black screen. This stays like this for 10-15 minutes and then it turns back on. When it goes back on it loads through the bios mode selector and I spam click DELETE to get into bios setup, but nothing happens, it just goes to the log in window. I've tried going through the UEFI firmare route, but that also doesnt work and it does the same thing.

Which exact EVGA 2080 do you have?

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/?manufacturer=EVGA&model=RTX+2080

Maybe IT needs a new bios (if it doesn't show the boot screen or does not detect the main monitor probably using DisplayPort).

 

Can you try just with a single monitor, the one that doesn't lose signal?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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28 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Which exact EVGA 2080 do you have?

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/?manufacturer=EVGA&model=RTX+2080

Maybe IT needs a new bios (if it doesn't show the boot screen or does not detect the main monitor probably using DisplayPort).

 

Can you try just with a single monitor, the one that doesn't lose signal?

1) I have no clue which exact EVGA 2080 I have, but if it really matters I can try to find out. 

 

2) My main monitor is using a display port cable to plug into my GPU and my secondary one is using HDMI. Should I switch some stuff around to make it work?

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7 minutes ago, Kitskaiscute said:

1) I have no clue which exact EVGA 2080 I have, but if it really matters I can try to find out. 

 

2) My main monitor is using a display port cable to plug into my GPU and my secondary one is using HDMI. Should I switch some stuff around to make it work?

Yes.

 

Some Nvidia GPU-s have issues showing the boot screen on some monitors while using DisplayPort. There were firmware/bios updates for such GPU-s. That's why I'm asking.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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2 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Yes.

 

Some Nvidia GPU-s have issues showing the boot screen on some monitors while using DisplayPort. There were firmware/bios updates for such GPU-s. That's why I'm asking.

ok ill change it to a HDMI and try again. Do i need the firmware/BIOS update for my GPU to fix the issue, and if so, how do I do it

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6 minutes ago, Kitskaiscute said:

ok ill change it to a HDMI and try again. Do i need the firmware/BIOS update for my GPU to fix the issue, and if so, how do I do it

You first need to know the exact model you have, then we can check if there's a newer vBios for that GPU model.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Just now, 191x7 said:

You first need to know the exact model you have, then we can check if there's a newer vBios for that GPU model.

Ok I'll do everything we've disscused tommorow and I'll get back to you. Thank you so much for the help so far 🙂

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13 hours ago, 191x7 said:

You first need to know the exact model you have, then we can check if there's a newer vBios for that GPU model.

I gave the HDMI cable to my main monitor and the boot screen showed up but it didnt go into the boot setup mode when I clicked DEL, it just sent me to the log in page on windows

 

this is my exact molde for my gpu:https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/207579/evga-rtx2080-8192-181022

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2 hours ago, Kitskaiscute said:

I gave the HDMI cable to my main monitor and the boot screen showed up but it didnt go into the boot setup mode when I clicked DEL, it just sent me to the log in page on windows

 

this is my exact molde for my gpu:https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/207579/evga-rtx2080-8192-181022

Maybe DEL isn't the hotkey for your board or your Bios doesn't detect your USB keyboard.

You might try entering the bios like this:

 

image.png.e0d2e789f7ba1ee1e929a411496883ec.png

 

 

For this GPU https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=0ce21214-aa18-4bce-8951-2a6676fa4ae1

I see there are 3 bios versions; 

image.png.aa519be6b26c8dd4a5993e35943a4373.png

Maybe EVGA Precission wil llet you know if there's a new bios for your card?

GPU-Z should show the Bios version you have.

 

 

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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28 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Maybe DEL isn't the hotkey for your board or your Bios doesn't detect your USB keyboard.

You might try entering the bios like this:

 

image.png.e0d2e789f7ba1ee1e929a411496883ec.png

 

 

For this GPU https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=0ce21214-aa18-4bce-8951-2a6676fa4ae1

I see there are 3 bios versions; 

image.png.aa519be6b26c8dd4a5993e35943a4373.png

Maybe EVGA Precission wil llet you know if there's a new bios for your card?

GPU-Z should show the Bios version you have.

 

 

Mine ends in 8A so it should be the top one 

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43 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Maybe DEL isn't the hotkey for your board or your Bios doesn't detect your USB keyboard.

You might try entering the bios like this:

 

image.png.e0d2e789f7ba1ee1e929a411496883ec.png

 

 

For this GPU https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=0ce21214-aa18-4bce-8951-2a6676fa4ae1

I see there are 3 bios versions; 

image.png.aa519be6b26c8dd4a5993e35943a4373.png

Maybe EVGA Precission wil llet you know if there's a new bios for your card?

GPU-Z should show the Bios version you have.

 

 

I tried the command prompt way to get into UEFI and it didn’t work. It did everything it was supposed to up until it came time to restart, and when it did, it just showed up as a black screen and stayed like that for around 10 minutes until a did a manual restart which then it stayed as a black screen for another couple minutes until going through the boot screen and login. 

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6 hours ago, Kitskaiscute said:

I tried the command prompt way to get into UEFI and it didn’t work. It did everything it was supposed to up until it came time to restart, and when it did, it just showed up as a black screen and stayed like that for around 10 minutes until a did a manual restart which then it stayed as a black screen for another couple minutes until going through the boot screen and login. 

Something is terribly wrong with your system. Strange issues indeed.

 

Let's do it this way.

Go here https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B365M-DS3H-rev-10/support#support-dl-utility and download the utility named @Bios and install it.

Go here download the F7 Bios https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B365M-DS3H-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios

Use @Bios to flash the F7 bios. Flashing will also reset the Bios and, at next boot, it will ask you to enter the Bios to check the settings.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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35 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Something is terribly wrong with your system. Strange issues indeed.

 

Let's do it this way.

Go here https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B365M-DS3H-rev-10/support#support-dl-utility and download the utility named @Bios and install it.

Go here download the F7 Bios https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B365M-DS3H-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios

Use @Bios to flash the F7 bios. Flashing will also reset the Bios and, at next boot, it will ask you to enter the Bios to check the settings.

what do you mean by flash the F7 bios using @bios. Do you mean put it on a flash drive or something else. Sorry this is the first time i've ever had to deal with something this bad on my pc.

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32 minutes ago, Kitskaiscute said:

what do you mean by flash the F7 bios using @bios. Do you mean put it on a flash drive or something else. Sorry this is the first time i've ever had to deal with something this bad on my pc.

I wrote what you should do.

@Bios is a program Gigabyte made for flashing the bios from inside Windows. It's easy to use.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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19 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

I wrote what you should do.

@Bios is a program Gigabyte made for flashing the bios from inside Windows. It's easy to use.

After I have installed @bios, should I reboot with the flash drive that has F7 bios downloaded on plugged in?

 

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1 hour ago, Kitskaiscute said:

After I have installed @bios, should I reboot with the flash drive that has F7 bios downloaded on plugged in?

 

No. Just start the program and go through it.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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11 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

No. Just start the program and go through it.

I've gone through the program and it giving me a "read Bios failed" error. I used the entire zip folder and I even tried to just run the one exe file, but both showed me the same error.

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1 minute ago, Kitskaiscute said:

I've gone through the program and it giving me a "read Bios failed" error. I used the entire zip folder and I even tried to just run the one exe file, but both showed me the same error.

B365MDSH.F7 is the Bios file.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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