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Possible overheating computer?

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1 minute ago, Okeree said:

You are awesome. As long as the new RAM that I order is on that list it will be compatible/have no issues? I do want Corsair but I think I might go with HyperX just because they have more options that are closer to what I need. Thank you for all your help so far.

These lists show kits that have been tested on that specific board with that specific processor series and shown to have stable performance, yes.

Hi all, I posted this same issue on reddit and got no help so I came here. I think my computer has been getting a little too hot, so I wanted to ask for some direction. First things first, this was a prebuilt that I bought from CyberPower, but have made several upgrades to. I upgraded my CPU, motherboard, and cooler, so it's pretty much a different system. My specs: 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950x (not overclocked)

Ram: T-Force 16GB DDR4 Memory 2400 hz

GPU: AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT 8GB (drivers up to date)

Storage: 2x1 TB PCI-E NVME SSD’s

Mobo: ASRock B550M Steel Legend Micro ATX

CPU cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280mm

PSU: 800 watt 80+ Gold (do not know exact manufacturer, I think Apevia ATX-PR 800w)

OS: Windows 10

BIOS: L2.32, 5/17/22 (latest)

My case has decent air flow, I think. It has a glass front but it also has two gaps for more air flow, as well as a mesh top so I don't think the case is the problem. I'll use Assassin's Creed: Origin's as an example for what happens when I try to play a game. When I first started up the game it optimized my graphics on the highest setting, which happens on all games I play for the first time, because realistically my pc should be able to handle that, but it can't even handle medium graphics settings. When the game crashes my screen goes black and my computer restarts. I've taken my front side panel off while playing to see if that helps with cooling, still crashes, so I have no clue how to help with the overheating. The hottest my GPU gets is about 85 degrees Celsius, but the junction temp can get to 101 degrees Celsius. I've read the junction is not as important, but 101 degrees seems significant to me as well as the 85 overall. Should I buy more fans? I'd like to upgrade my GPU when the market goes back to normal, but if it's just going to overheat there's no point. Is my GPU's cooling messed up?? Do I just need a whole new more open case? Any help and advice is appreciated.

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That's not the GPU overheating. My Sapphire Pulse 5700XT reaches those junctio ntemperatures since day 1, and there are far worse models like the MSI Evoke, Asus TUF, Asus Strix or the AMD refference model. 

 

Maybe CPU temperatures?

 

Using the latest AMD chipset drivers from AMD Support?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
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Sorry to say, your case probably IS the issue, CyberPower is known for using aquariums without enough airflow for higher-powered processors, the reason I was advised to do an entirely new build for my 5900X. Without pics or specifics on to exactly which case, it's impossible to say for sure. So posting some pics or a screenshot of your actual case from CyberPower's site would help here.

 

Lots of people cram AIOs into NZXT H510s, not realizing that the solid front blocks the radiator and the radiator blocks the case's side vents. But I can tell you that an AIO does no good if it can't get air.

 

FWIW, my 5900X idles around 38-43C, moderately loads around 58-65C, and peaks around 70-72 with a Scythe tower air cooler and six 120mms in a Fractal Pop XL Air. These processors definitely do NOT require liquid cooling.

 

Also, how are your fans oriented? Ideally, you want three front intakes, one rear exhaust and two top exhaust for most cases.

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15 hours ago, 191x7 said:

That's not the GPU overheating. My Sapphire Pulse 5700XT reaches those junctio ntemperatures since day 1, and there are far worse models like the MSI Evoke, Asus TUF, Asus Strix or the AMD refference model. 

 

Maybe CPU temperatures?

 

Using the latest AMD chipset drivers from AMD Support?

Definitely not my cpu. That tops at around 70C. I am using the newest drivers. I just looked at their website to triple check. Thank you for your suggestion!

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15 hours ago, lopj245 said:

That shouldn't cause a crash, how hot is the cpu getting? What software are you using for fan control?

 

My cpu tops at around 70C. I don't use fan control software because I'm scared of damaging the fans by pushing them too hard, I know that's silly lol. If you could offer some guidance on how I should modify my fan speeds so that I don't damage them I'd super appreciate that.

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15 hours ago, An0maly_76 said:

Sorry to say, your case probably IS the issue, CyberPower is known for using aquariums without enough airflow for higher-powered processors, the reason I was advised to do an entirely new build for my 5900X. Without pics or specifics on to exactly which case, it's impossible to say for sure. So posting some pics or a screenshot of your actual case from CyberPower's site would help here.

 

Lots of people cram AIOs into NZXT H510s, not realizing that the solid front blocks the radiator and the radiator blocks the case's side vents. But I can tell you that an AIO does no good if it can't get air.

 

FWIW, my 5900X idles around 38-43C, moderately loads around 58-65C, and peaks around 70-72 with a Scythe tower air cooler and six 120mms in a Fractal Pop XL Air. These processors definitely do NOT require liquid cooling.

 

Also, how are your fans oriented? Ideally, you want three front intakes, one rear exhaust and two top exhaust for most cases.

I only have 2 fans up top, maybe that's the issue.. I have my radiator in the front so I don't have any room for front intakes, and I have no rear fans. Do you think I should get a new case? I'll provide a photo of the case I currently have (one with the front side panel and one without. If I should get a new one, what case do you recommend? I don't really have a budget but, as silly as this sounds, my mom doesn't really like me spending money on my computer so if it can be under 100$ that would be ideal. Also if I need to buy new fans do you have any recommendations? Thank you for your reply 🙂 (PS, ignore my corny stickers hehe)

image1 (1).jpeg

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image.png.dc1a9f43846e8bc8795c7190e71affba.png

 

Yep, it seems you've got adequate cooling. Two front fans are sufficient, three are ideal, but temp-wise, that front is 100% your problem, it's about as closed-off as you get. Those front fans can't get any air to flow and are doing nothing. I'd guess this case has intakes on the other side that are closed-off by the front rad.

 

Effectively the same scenario I mentioned with the NZXT H510. Just an FYI, there is an NZXT H510 FLOW variant that solves this problem, available in white, with similar aesthetics. It is also available in white. If you want to stick with your current cooling, I would suggest a case with a more open front, but if you want to keep this case I would suggest one of two things -- move the front rad topside for heat exhaust and the topside fans to the front if they can get air from a possible side-draft intake, and / or find some way to modify the case for bottom intake. Either way, that AIO can't get air for cooling where it is.

 

As for cases that would cool better for this setup, I might recommend most any Fractal Design or Corsair. The Corsair x000X cases have similar aesthetics with a front air intake gap (my 5900X build started in a 4000X and cooled fine with the approximately 34 sq in air intake), come with three fans with basic RGB control, and should be able to handle what you have here, they are multi-form factor, you just have to position the standoffs accordingly. 4000X, 5000X and 7000X are tower, mid-tower, full-tower, accordingly.

 

Their D Airflow counterparts offer better airflow with more understated aesthetics, but come with fewer fans. I can verify the X series have front and top dust filters (never understood the top filter, as that's typically exhaust), supposedly the D Airflow have them as well. These are available in black or white. All support 280-360mm rads front and top.

 

I found the Fractal Pop XL Air I migrated my build to a bit easier to build in with excellent ventilation and access for the most part. It also offers something most cases don't these days -- two bays for internal optical drives. They're priced reasonably, however, certain things are add-ons that can pad the bill -- front USB-C, vertical GPU mount, etc. However, if you're wanting a white case, these are available in different accent colors, but probably not solid white. They don't have intake air filters, either.

 

Mine houses an Asus Tuf B550-PLUS ATX board with an R9-5900X topped with a Scythe Mugen 5 cooler (approx 153mm if memory serves), six LL120 Corsair fans, a 6TB WD HDD, and a Pioneer BDR212-DBK Blu-Ray burner. I think it still has room for 2-4 more drives.

 

There's also a lot of good buzz about the Fractal Torrent, and it's quite stylish. I don't know, however, if these have intake dust filters.

Edited by An0maly_76
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Don't go around spending money untill you solve the issues you have, if you spend the money on the case and don't solve the issue you won't have for a part that would actually solve the issue.

Since the issue isn't overheating, the case is not a priority.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
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  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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@191x7has a point.

 

While overheating could cause thermal shutdown, I think it would have to be much worse for a thermal shutdown, and I know from hard experience that RAM stability can be a big deal with Ryzen. My 5900X build drove me nuts for months because the board didn't like the RAM I used, which was not on the board's QVL list.

 

@Okeree here is the QVL list for your board with a Vermeer (5000-series) processor... Check it for your RAM's SKU / part #. It very well could be part of your problem.

 

https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B550M Steel Legend/index.asp#MemoryVM

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29 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

@191x7has a point.

 

While overheating could cause thermal shutdown, I think it would have to be much worse for a thermal shutdown, and I know from hard experience that RAM stability can be a big deal with Ryzen. My 5900X build drove me nuts for months because the board didn't like the RAM I used, which was not on the board's QVL list.

 

@Okeree here is the QVL list for your board with a Vermeer (5000-series) processor... Check it for your RAM's SKU / part #. It very well could be part of your problem.

 

https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B550M Steel Legend/index.asp#MemoryVM

Thank you so much for both your case suggestions and this link. Just making sure I'm doing everything right, I am supposed to be able to find my RAM there right? I actually was looking at some new RAM today as I'm interested in upgrading it. I added the list of Team RAM, which I think is the maker of T-Force ram lol?? Under the "module" tab I am not sure how to find out what module I have, and none of those are 2400hz sticks so if my RAM is supposed to be on there I don't think it is. If my RAM is the problem that works out perfectly because I'm already looking at some Corsair sticks. However, I'm not sure if I should drop 200$ and get the best of the best, or if I should just go with 3800hz. Sorry for rambling, I really appreciate your guys' replies and guidance, just let me know what move I should make next. Again, super appreciate you both.

Team list.png

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59 minutes ago, Okeree said:

Thank you so much for both your case suggestions and this link. Just making sure I'm doing everything right, I am supposed to be able to find my RAM there right? I actually was looking at some new RAM today as I'm interested in upgrading it. I added the list of Team RAM, which I think is the maker of T-Force ram lol?? Under the "module" tab I am not sure how to find out what module I have, and none of those are 2400hz sticks so if my RAM is supposed to be on there I don't think it is. If my RAM is the problem that works out perfectly because I'm already looking at some Corsair sticks. However, I'm not sure if I should drop 200$ and get the best of the best, or if I should just go with 3800hz. Sorry for rambling, I really appreciate your guys' replies and guidance, just let me know what move I should make next. Again, super appreciate you both.

 

Correct. Module is the RAM's SKU number. If you can't find your existing RAM SKU on this list, it could be an issue. Should that be the case, go with something similar that is on the list. Each segment of the part number denotes a difference from other kits, even if they are similar. And none necessarily translate to another part # unless certain segments are identical.

 

Example, just because a 3200 Mhz 2x8 kit is QVL'd, doesn't mean a 3200 Mhz 2x16 kit will work unless it is QVL'd also, OR, in some cases, the part number is otherwise identical. Some boards have lower total RAM limitations (16GB, 32GB, 64GB), C14 and C18 are not the same, and 3600 in a certain series may be too fast for stable performance where 3200 is just right. For instance, my Patriot Viper 4 Blackout PVB432G320C6K DIMMs are available in other 'flavors', so to speak. There are RGB, Steel, Elite and other variants with the same basic DIMM, just a different heat spreader denoted by PVR, PVB, PVS, etc. The 432, 416, 464 denote DDR4, 32GB, 16GB, or 64GB, respectively. The 3200 or 3600 later in the part # denotes the speed. This does, of course, apply to Patriot -- other vendors structure their part numbers differently.

 

I'm not familiar with TeamGroup or T-Force, but I really like the Patriot kit in my 5900X, its G320C6K designation seems pretty popular on most QVLs I've seen, though the 3600X test bed got a Ballistix kit just because it was the only QVL'd kit for the board that I could readily get without a lot of fuss and muss. Both kits were the same timings and voltage as the one they replaced, but the original kit had the system acting like a career junkie in detox.

 

image.thumb.png.7d7df38e0e381b93283787dfd7de2f35.png

Edited by An0maly_76
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18 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

Correct. Module is the RAM's SKU number. If you can't find your existing RAM SKU on this list, it could be an issue. Should that be the case, go with something similar that is on the list. Each segment of the part number denotes a difference from other kits, even if they are similar. And none necessarily translate to another part # unless certain segments are identical.

 

Example, just because a 3200 Mhz 2x8 kit is QVL'd, doesn't mean a 3200 Mhz 2x16 kit will work unless it is QVL'd also, OR, in some cases, the part number is otherwise identical. C14 and C18 are not the same, and 3600 in a certain series may be too fast for stable performance where 3200 is just right.

 

I'm not familiar with TeamGroup or T-Force, but I really like the Patriot kit in my 5900X, its G320C6K designation seems pretty popular on most QVLs I've seen, though the 3600X test bed got a Ballistix kit just because it was the only QVL'd kit for the board that I could readily get without a lot of fuss and muss. Both kits were the same timings and voltage as the one they replaced, but the original kit had the system acting like a career junkie in detox.

 

image.thumb.png.7d7df38e0e381b93283787dfd7de2f35.png

You are awesome. As long as the new RAM that I order is on that list it will be compatible/have no issues? I do want Corsair but I think I might go with HyperX just because they have more options that are closer to what I need. Thank you for all your help so far.

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1 minute ago, Okeree said:

You are awesome. As long as the new RAM that I order is on that list it will be compatible/have no issues? I do want Corsair but I think I might go with HyperX just because they have more options that are closer to what I need. Thank you for all your help so far.

These lists show kits that have been tested on that specific board with that specific processor series and shown to have stable performance, yes.

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Just now, An0maly_76 said:

These lists show kits that have been tested on that specific board with that specific processor series and shown to have stable performance, yes.

You are literally the best, I'm going to mark this as an answer and say my problem is solved. I can't thank you enough.

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12 minutes ago, Okeree said:

You are literally the best, I'm going to mark this as an answer and say my problem is solved. I can't thank you enough.

@Okeree

 

Well, it's a likely solution and a little-known but common problem, but I'm not sure I would count it solved until a replacement kit is installed and the issues disappear. It was a hard-learned lesson, believe me. Five months of random no-video starts had me ready to throw mine in a lake until I learned about QVL. 🙂

Edited by An0maly_76
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@OkereeAlso, one thing to watch out for if replacing the RAM. My Asus Tuf B550-PLUS calls for 16-18-18-36 timings at 1.35V for the PVB432G320C6K I used, but the board's DOCP detected it at some wonky 20-43-43-43 timings, so I had to disable DOCP and set the timings manually. It's not that hard, but if this turns out to be necessary, be sure to get the right values in the right sequence and segments (some values don't require a value, others will) and manually set the DRAM frequency in BIOS.

 

ADDED: Here is a link that explains manual timings values and how to set them properly.

 

https://appuals.com/ram-timings-cas-ras-trcd-trp-tras-explained/

Edited by An0maly_76
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I don't badmouth others' input, I'd appreciate others not badmouthing mine. *** More below ***

 

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

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18 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

@OkereeAlso, one thing to watch out for if replacing the RAM. My Asus Tuf B550-PLUS calls for 16-18-18-36 timings at 1.35V for the PVB432G320C6K I used, but the board's DOCP detected it at some wonky 20-43-43-43 timings, so I had to disable DOCP and set the timings manually. It's not that hard, but if this turns out to be necessary, be sure to get the right values in the right sequence and segments (some values don't require a value, others will) and manually set the DRAM frequency in BIOS.

 

ADDED: Here is a link that explains manual timings values and how to set them properly.

 

https://appuals.com/ram-timings-cas-ras-trcd-trp-tras-explained/

oooh okay, I'll need to wait until the 27th of this month to be able to buy the ram I want so that I don't upset my mom(lol). I'm going with the Corsair Dominator Platinum 3200mhz and of course 2x8gb sticks. As soon as I get it I'll update you as well as check the timing on it. Hopefully this is the fix I need. 

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7 minutes ago, Okeree said:

oooh okay, I'll need to wait until the 27th of this month to be able to buy the ram I want so that I don't upset my mom(lol). I'm going with the Corsair Dominator Platinum 3200mhz and of course 2x8gb sticks. As soon as I get it I'll update you as well as check the timing on it. Hopefully this is the fix I need. 

I presume you checked its SKU against the list?

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@Okeree

These are the only two 3200 Corsair kits on the list, neither are 2x8. What is the SKU you plan to order?

 

image.thumb.png.8bc98a80c3777e92add9e4fcd750b873.png

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1 hour ago, An0maly_76 said:

@Okeree

These are the only two 3200 Corsair kits on the list, neither are 2x8. What is the SKU you plan to order?

 

image.thumb.png.8bc98a80c3777e92add9e4fcd750b873.png

I planned to get 2 CMT16GX4M2C3200C16 (v4.32), but I remember now that you said " just because a 3200 Mhz 2x8 kit is QVL'd, doesn't mean a 3200 Mhz 2x16 kit will work unless it is QVL'd also". I totally forgot lol. 

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7 minutes ago, Okeree said:

I planned to get 2 CMT16GX4M2C3200C16 (v4.32), but I remember now that you said " just because a 3200 Mhz 2x8 kit is QVL'd, doesn't mean a 3200 Mhz 2x16 kit will work unless it is QVL'd also". I totally forgot lol. 

It can depend on how the rest of the SKU matches up, but I generally don't recommend deviation. I just found out last night that not only was the RAM so troublesome in my 1700 rig not right for it, the board also did not support 32GB either. It registered it, but it was never meant to.

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Revised, more info

I don't badmouth others' input, I'd appreciate others not badmouthing mine. *** More below ***

 

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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4 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

It can depend on how the rest of the SKU matches up, but I generally don't recommend deviation. I just found out last night that not only was the RAM so troublesome in my 1700 rig not right for it, the board also did not support 32GB either. It registered it, but it was never meant to.

I think 32 would be overkill, so I have no plans on getting that. There's like no RAM thats 3200mhz, 2x8, and under 100$ lmao, this is so tough.

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44 minutes ago, Okeree said:

I think 32 would be overkill, so I have no plans on getting that. There's like no RAM thats 3200mhz, 2x8, and under 100$ lmao, this is so tough.

Try Patriot PSD416G24002, it's 2400, but it's 16GB and on the list... $53.61 on Amazon right now. It's not gussied up or RGB, but it fits your budget and can possibly be OC'd to 3200.

 

Here are the 16GB 3200 QVL options for this board...

 

image.thumb.png.f3d9091a65e358259c706c5672a89e8b.png

 

 

Edited by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

I don't badmouth others' input, I'd appreciate others not badmouthing mine. *** More below ***

 

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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21 hours ago, An0maly_76 said:

Try Patriot PSD416G24002, it's 2400, but it's 16GB and on the list... $53.61 on Amazon right now. It's not gussied up or RGB, but it fits your budget and can possibly be OC'd to 3200.

 

Here are the 16GB 3200 QVL options for this board...

 

image.thumb.png.f3d9091a65e358259c706c5672a89e8b.png

 

 

I'm kind of scared of over clocking, if I over clock it am I able to like leave it overclocked? What are the real risks lol

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