3d printer

[Idkwhattodowithmylife]

i was just wondering what 3d printer they use at lmg?

[Ryuikko]

Pretty sure it's this one

 

Link dosent work apparently. It's called the prusa i3 mk3s

[Imbadatnames]

16 hours ago, Ryuikko said:

Pretty sure it's this one

 

Link dosent work apparently. It's called the prusa i3 mk3s

It’s a really bad printer tbh I don’t see why they don’t get a decent one 

[tikker]

6 minutes ago, Imbadatnames said:

It’s a really bad printer tbh I don’t see why they don’t get a decent one 

Might want to elaborate on that, because that's not a common sentiment in my experience.

[Imbadatnames]

10 minutes ago, tikker said:

Might want to elaborate on that, because that's not a common sentiment in my experience.

For the price it’s just not very good, I’ve used one and for a hobbyist perspective an Ender is better and from a company perspective even something like an Ultimaker S3 would be several stratospheres better for what would be a small investment for company of LMGs size. Hell even going balls to the wall with a F450 would probably make the money back in a few videos 

[tikker]

19 minutes ago, Imbadatnames said:

For the price it’s just not very good, I’ve used one and for a hobbyist perspective an Ender is better and from a company perspective even something like an Ultimaker S3 would be several stratospheres better for what would be a small investment for company of LMGs size. Hell even going balls to the wall with a F450 would probably make the money back in a few videos 

Ah yeah. I do agree they are expensive, but  print quality wise I wouldn't say they fall in "very bad" category.

[Imbadatnames]

13 minutes ago, NastyFlytrap said:

Its the best printer in its price class. Not sure what you're on

It costs a grand. You can get an Ender for like 1/3 of that and mod it to shit. You can get a used S2 for under a grand 

[Imbadatnames]

22 minutes ago, tikker said:

Ah yeah. I do agree they are expensive, but  print quality wise I wouldn't say they fall in "very bad" category.

It’s a very bad value which to me makes it very bad. It’s also tiny 

[tikker]

13 minutes ago, Imbadatnames said:

It’s a very bad value which to me makes it very bad. It’s also tiny 

Bad value does not mean it's a bad printer. It prints great. The print bed is on the smaller side. My CR10S can go bigger indeed, but I don't do that often due to the large time investment required for large prints. It depends on what you are after.

[Needfuldoer]

2 hours ago, Imbadatnames said:

It’s a really bad printer tbh I don’t see why they don’t get a decent one 

Because about two years ago, they got 30 of them from the guy whose name is on them.

 

 

[Imbadatnames]

1 hour ago, tikker said:

Bad value does not mean it's a bad printer. It prints great. The print bed is on the smaller side. My CR10S can go bigger indeed, but I don't do that often due to the large time investment required for large prints. It depends on what you are after.

You can make prints that don’t take much time but still need a large area. Plus more expensive printers generally have better print times 

[Idkwhattodowithmylife]

it is very expensive... any budget printers for beginners that are good?

[Needfuldoer]

1 hour ago, Idkwhattodowithmylife said:

it is very expensive... any budget printers for beginners that are good?

I've been happy with my Ender 3 Pro. The trick is to build it on a perfectly flat surface like a glass stovetop, and install the aluminum extruder kit right off the bat.

 

Dan just covered another $200-ish 3D printer on ShortCircuit recently, too.

 

 

[Idkwhattodowithmylife]

3 minutes ago, Needfuldoer said:

I've been happy with my Ender 3 Pro. The trick is to build it on a perfectly flat surface like a glass stovetop, and install the aluminum extruder kit right off the bat.

 

Dan just covered another $200-ish 3D printer on ShortCircuit recently, too.

 

 

yea i saw that in my youtube feed right after i posted my question. thanks tho

[tikker]

On 9/27/2022 at 9:19 PM, Imbadatnames said:

You can make prints that don’t take much time but still need a large area. Plus more expensive printers generally have better print times 

Sure, but if you need a larger build area then you buy a larger printer. That example just means it's not the printer for that use case.

On 9/28/2022 at 12:49 AM, Idkwhattodowithmylife said:

it is very expensive... any budget printers for beginners that are good?

Something like an Ender 3 I'd say. My CR10-S is still going strong (upgraded with the Hemera extruder) and is a nice printer as well. The Enders are just a bit more of a polished version of those.

[RasmusDC]

On 9/27/2022 at 7:01 PM, Imbadatnames said:

For the price it’s just not very good, I’ve used one and for a hobbyist perspective an Ender is better and from a company perspective even something like an Ultimaker S3 would be several stratospheres better for what would be a small investment for company of LMGs size. Hell even going balls to the wall with a F450 would probably make the money back in a few videos 

i have multiple Creality products, and i have a Prusa MK3S.. the one that ALWAYS works, that always finishes a print is not my ender 5 or my CR10-pro or whatever else i have, it is the Prusa, also with the Direct drive extrusion it is the only one that will stably do flexible filaments.

 

I can agree that because it is not made of Chinesium it is not cheap, compared to ultimakers, and other .. "business" printers, it is a steal. 

 

My Ender 5 now runs better, but after i have put 1k into rebuilding it, with liniar rails, new leveling system, reprogrammed the board.. 

 

It is a no frills printer the Mk3S, where you have to BABY a creality product, and also have to be really "mindfull" of what products you get, because there is so much gab in quality between different products.

 

It is also fun to see all the youtubers with the old ender 3, THIS ENDER is the cheapest printer around and it prints perfectly, points to the ender with new hotends, and buildplate and updates that cost more than the printer it self.

 

(yeah i also LOVE the flexible buildplate of the Mk3S and the proper controlled heating surface) and i also would like to pay the actual people doing development, not the people that just try to copy it.

 

regarding Ultimaker being better, i far from agree with that, we have so many of these ultimakers, with proprietary filaments and what ever they add in.. those are not great printers.

[Imbadatnames]

1 hour ago, RasmusDC said:

i have multiple Creality products, and i have a Prusa MK3S.. the one that ALWAYS works, that always finishes a print is not my ender 5 or my CR10-pro or whatever else i have, it is the Prusa, also with the Direct drive extrusion it is the only one that will stably do flexible filaments.

 

I can agree that because it is not made of Chinesium it is not cheap, compared to ultimakers, and other .. "business" printers, it is a steal. 

 

My Ender 5 now runs better, but after i have put 1k into rebuilding it, with liniar rails, new leveling system, reprogrammed the board.. 

 

It is a no frills printer the Mk3S, where you have to BABY a creality product, and also have to be really "mindfull" of what products you get, because there is so much gab in quality between different products.

 

It is also fun to see all the youtubers with the old ender 3, THIS ENDER is the cheapest printer around and it prints perfectly, points to the ender with new hotends, and buildplate and updates that cost more than the printer it self.

 

(yeah i also LOVE the flexible buildplate of the Mk3S and the proper controlled heating surface) and i also would like to pay the actual people doing development, not the people that just try to copy it.

 

regarding Ultimaker being better, i far from agree with that, we have so many of these ultimakers, with proprietary filaments and what ever they add in.. those are not great printers.

My point was that for hobbyists the ender is better because it allows tinkering but for business there’s much better options than the Prusa. Have a prusa at work but it never gets used due to it being too small and other printers are more reliable. 
 

You also don’t need direct drive from flexible filament. 

[RasmusDC]

On 9/30/2022 at 12:02 PM, Imbadatnames said:

My point was that for hobbyists the ender is better because it allows tinkering but for business there’s much better options than the Prusa. Have a prusa at work but it never gets used due to it being too small and other printers are more reliable. 
 

You also don’t need direct drive from flexible filament. 

Depends on what hobbyist you are.. If you buy 3d printers, to play with 3d printers, then fine, but it you buy the printer, to get product for your actual hobby, i use mine a LOT, and i have played a LOT with rebuilding and fixing them, but got tired of them, because printing was not my hobby, but i needed the prints for other things, that is why i got a printer, so being able to just start, leave and get back to a functional product was just a MUST for me.

 

i started with the CR10Pro which was not cheap and that nearly made me not get into 3d printing, after changing build plate, changing to BL touch, and microswiss hotend, it is still a dreadful printer, the Ender5 is MUCH better, the Ender 3 i gave away for free, but the CR10+5+3 makes NICE filament prints, just purely stability that made me dump them.

 

i still have the CR10pro because i would never sell that piece of shit, the Ender5 has liniar rails + new hotend + new board + a whole metal 3dprinted hotend assembly (had i to pay for that it would have been more than the whole printer), it is FAST and EXTREMELY stable the Ender5 now, and better than the Mk3s, but to be honest, the time and cost sunk into it, and i still use the Mk3s constantly.

[Imbadatnames]

2 hours ago, RasmusDC said:

Depends on what hobbyist you are.. If you buy 3d printers, to play with 3d printers, then fine, but it you buy the printer, to get product for your actual hobby, i use mine a LOT, and i have played a LOT with rebuilding and fixing them, but got tired of them, because printing was not my hobby, but i needed the prints for other things, that is why i got a printer, so being able to just start, leave and get back to a functional product was just a MUST for me.

But regardless of the printer you’re buying you will have to tinker at someone to get things working. I work with some industrial grade ones and still wanted to throw it down a set of stairs when troubleshooting. 

2 hours ago, RasmusDC said:

 

i started with the CR10Pro which was not cheap and that nearly made me not get into 3d printing, after changing build plate, changing to BL touch, and microswiss hotend, it is still a dreadful printer, the Ender5 is MUCH better, the Ender 3 i gave away for free, but the CR10+5+3 makes NICE filament prints, just purely stability that made me dump them.

 

i still have the CR10pro because i would never sell that piece of shit, the Ender5 has liniar rails + new hotend + new board + a whole metal 3dprinted hotend assembly (had i to pay for that it would have been more than the whole printer), it is FAST and EXTREMELY stable the Ender5 now, and better than the Mk3s, but to be honest, the time and cost sunk into it, and i still use the Mk3s constantly.

But the more time you put into it the more you know the hardware and how to get stuff out of it which comes in handy when you’re printing materials like nylon, PVA or PC which are cunts.  It’s about building knowledge. 

[Guest]

On 9/27/2022 at 6:49 PM, Idkwhattodowithmylife said:

it is very expensive... any budget printers for beginners that are good?

I think Elegoo released an assembled FDM printer for $200~ recently.
Less hassle of assembling & stuff.

 

Also I hear some Elegoo Resin printers are pretty nice for about $100.

[RasmusDC]

15 hours ago, Imbadatnames said:

But regardless of the printer you’re buying you will have to tinker at someone to get things working. I work with some industrial grade ones and still wanted to throw it down a set of stairs when troubleshooting. 

But the more time you put into it the more you know the hardware and how to get stuff out of it which comes in handy when you’re printing materials like nylon, PVA or PC which are cunts.  It’s about building knowledge. 

that is not my experience with the Mk3S, i have sliced and it just worked. Not a single time has et left me without a usable print.

 

I get that i design for no support materials, that that simplifies it a lot, when you know how to design around the problem areas, but that for me was the main thing here.

i have even to relevel the printer after years of usage, it still just .. "prints" i have exchange the brass hotend for the steel one, that is the support i did on it.

 

Okay i do clean my buildplates with IPA when i have done a print, but for me that is just normal usage. 

 

i get the tinkering part, if you aim for perfection in surfaces, no ghosting, other elements, but this has just not been problematic for me in the Prusa. and industrial, well we have multiple high end metal printers here, for production parts. and they are even simpler. and i know i went and bought the "DIY" Prusa kit, to save a bit of money. so that is FAR from everyone that can do it, even though the Manual is simple, and you learn a lot, you still need a "touch" to be able to do it properly, i would not put anyone into assembling a Prusa, whereas my Creality was just mounting the "profile" beams". 

 

So again, i don´t believe tinkering is needed. 

[Imbadatnames]

On 10/3/2022 at 2:54 AM, RasmusDC said:

that is not my experience with the Mk3S, i have sliced and it just worked. Not a single time has et left me without a usable print.

 

I get that i design for no support materials, that that simplifies it a lot, when you know how to design around the problem areas, but that for me was the main thing here.

i have even to relevel the printer after years of usage, it still just .. "prints" i have exchange the brass hotend for the steel one, that is the support i did on it.

 

Okay i do clean my buildplates with IPA when i have done a print, but for me that is just normal usage. 

 

i get the tinkering part, if you aim for perfection in surfaces, no ghosting, other elements, but this has just not been problematic for me in the Prusa. and industrial, well we have multiple high end metal printers here, for production parts. and they are even simpler. and i know i went and bought the "DIY" Prusa kit, to save a bit of money. so that is FAR from everyone that can do it, even though the Manual is simple, and you learn a lot, you still need a "touch" to be able to do it properly, i would not put anyone into assembling a Prusa, whereas my Creality was just mounting the "profile" beams". 

 

So again, i don´t believe tinkering is needed. 

But in what materials? And if you’re not needing support then you’re not designing anythjnf thag complex 

[Neroon]

On 9/27/2022 at 7:21 PM, tikker said:

Ah yeah. I do agree they are expensive, but  print quality wise I wouldn't say they fall in "very bad" category.

Yeah he's full of it.

 

Prusa's are pretty much the best (consumer) printers you can get out of the box, and print farms love these because they are so reliable and low maintenance.

 

I looked at the Mini, which is around 450ish, but the bed size and delivery time (was over 2 months half a year ago), made me go in a different direction, and I ended up getting the Ender 3 S1, which is a little cheaper, bigger bed, and is fantastic out of the box as well. I mean if cost isn't an issue, I would 100% recommend a larger Prusa, but this Ender is a fantastic value if you just want a solid out of the box printer, that has pretty much every major upgrade that Ender 3 owners generally do.

 

 

Btw I will say 1 thing about LTT and 3D printing... they are horrible at it. I don't know what it is, but the amount of fails these guys have, is absolutely absurd. Their printers are super solid, so it's really about them messing up with slicing, and possibly preparing the bed. I've done many prints that have taken over 24 hours, including 48+ hours, and never had those kinds of issue. I've had tree supports break due to over extrusion, but just nothing catastrophic.