my processor keeps heating up

[TheDivvs]

So I have a Rysen 5 5600X with a tuf gaming b550-plus , and I got both of them around 4-5 months ago.

I´m on Windows 11 (x64) .

I have 16Gb of ram (2400Mh)

Just like yesterday or before , I noticed that it started to go to crazy temperatures , even going past 80°C

, to simply stopping my computer because it´s way to hot.

I tried cleaning the fans , changing the thermal paste , updating the Bios (mine is 2604) and the drivers .

I tried lowering the frequency , putting the CPU in eco mode , not putting it in overclock.

I think of doing a clean installation ,

or maybe cleaing my fans again in case , but i´m out of ideas for now .

I´m open to suggestions because I´m kind of scared.

(PS : I live in a diffrent time zone( Paris,Madrid ) and school won´t help me seeing answers )

[Origami Cactus]

What cooler do you have? If it is a watercooler, then the pump is dead. If it is an aircooler and you can see the fans spinning, more info is needed.

Do you mean that the computer turns itself off after some time, because it reaches a too high temp? Or do you turn it off, because the temp seems high? What temp does it actually reach? Tmax should be 105c or somewhere near that.

[RMTM]

To save you some time and effort, do not do a clean install. 

 

Tell us first what CPU cooler are you using? Watercooling/AIO or air-cooled(heatsink with fan)?

[TheDivvs]

10 minutes ago, Origami Cactus said:

What cooler do you have? If it is a watercooler, then the pump is dead. If it is an aircooler and you can see the fans spinning, more info is needed.

Do you mean that the computer turns itself off after some time, because it reaches a too high temp? Or do you turn it off, because the temp seems high? What temp does it actually reach? Tmax should be 105c or somewhere near that.

 

2 minutes ago, RMTM said:

To save you some time and effort, do not do a clean install. 

 

Tell us first what CPU cooler are you using? Watercooling/AIO or air-cooled(heatsink with fan)?

Good thing you guys mentioned that , it´s a watercooler that my dad made me change to a Enermax LIqmax iii (120 mm) . At the beginning the fans would just go crazy for like a random amount of time , than go to normal . Since then the problem didn´t come back , at least until like , 2 days ago.

 

It was effectively turning off automatically due to overheating ( like Origami Cactus said ) and I would turn it off too because of panic (it never happened with my old coolers and old CPUs.

[Origami Cactus]

4 minutes ago, Voltaled said:

 

Good thing you guys mentioned that , it´s a watercooler that my dad made me change to a Enermax LIqmax iii (120 mm) . At the beginning the fans would just go crazy for like a random amount of time , than go to normal . Since then the problem didn´t come back , at least until like , 2 days ago.

 

It was effectively turning off automatically due to overheating ( like Origami Cactus said ) and I would turn it off too because of panic (it never happened with my old coolers and old CPUs.

As I said, the pump is 100% dead. Swap to a different cooler and all your problems will go away, but don’t continue using your pc like this, until cooler is swapped.

 

[An0maly_76]

5600x, I would recommend a Scythe Mugen 5. I have one on a 5900X that does rather well. Be aware that changing the backplate and cooler brackets is required, which with some cases may require removing the motherboard.

Edited March 21, 2022 by An0maly_76

[Origami Cactus]

8 minutes ago, RMTM said:

To save you some time and effort, do not do a clean install. 

 

Tell us first what CPU cooler are you using? Watercooling/AIO or air-cooled(heatsink with fan)?

Actually really good and fresh suggestion! Reinstall doesn’t always fix all problems. 

[TheDivvs]

1 minute ago, Origami Cactus said:

Actually really good and fresh suggestion! Reinstall doesn’t always fix all problems. 

 

1 minute ago, An0maly_76 said:

5600x, I would recommend a Scythe Mugen 5. I have one on a 5900X that does rather well. Be aware that changing the backplate and cooler brackets is required, which with some cases may require removing the motherboard.

 

1 minute ago, An0maly_76 said:

5600x, I would recommend a Scythe Mugen 5. I have one on a 5900X that does rather well. Be aware that changing the backplate and cooler brackets is required, which with some cases may require removing the motherboard.

Thanks for the suggestions and help!

I´ll try to ask my dad the one you recommended me and see if the whole thing works , than hope it will work. 

(life is great)

Worst part of this thing : i thought it was the thermal paste .

I changed it 4 times.

I´m a moron.

[An0maly_76]

9 minutes ago, Voltaled said:

Thanks for the suggestions and help!

I´ll try to ask my dad the one you recommended me and see if the whole thing works , than hope it will work. 

(life is great)

Worst part of this thing : i thought it was the thermal paste .

I changed it 4 times.

I´m a moron.

Not every problem is so obvious. Don't be too hard on yourself. I was doing a new build and had installed my motherboard and CPU before I noticed the bit about the cooler brackets being different for the Mugen. Took my board back out and may not have even had to -- I noticed later the case had an open area that may have allowed me to change the brackets without doing so.

 

I actually disassembled my system at least partially twice before I got everything right, and because of an oversight I wasn't aware of, I have a non-functional front panel USB C 3.2. Not a deal breaker, but I could have gotten a different board if I had known about this. I quite likely have Asperger's (high-functioning autism), so at least I know I'm doing the best I can. Point is, we all make mistakes.

Edited March 21, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised

[Needfuldoer]

12 minutes ago, Voltaled said:

Worst part of this thing : i thought it was the thermal paste .

I changed it 4 times.

You *practiced* applying thermal paste four times!

[TheDivvs]

1 minute ago, Needfuldoer said:

You *practiced* applying thermal paste four times!

It was painful.

I was becoming the Silver Surfer every time.

[TheDivvs]

9 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

Not every problem is so obvious. Don't be too hard on yourself. I was doing a new build and had installed my motherboard and CPU before I noticed the bit about the cooler brackets being different for the Mugen. Took my board back out and may not have even had to -- I noticed later the case had an open area that may have allowed me to change the brackets without doing so.

 

I actually disassembled my system at least partially twice before I got everything right, and because of an oversight I wasn't aware of, I have a non-functional front panel USB C 3.2. Not a deal breaker, but I could have gotten a different board if I had known about this. I quite likely have Asperger's (high-functioning autism), so at least I know I'm doing the best I can. Point is, we all make mistakes.

Yeah , thanks for cheering me up a bit .

I was kind of mad because the problem was occuring the hour when i usually go to sleep , destroing my sleep schedule . Just looked at the cooler you told me and , just from the reviews, it seems fine!

The hardest part will be the parent convincing ( my dad will not understand why i suddenly want to move to aircooling again knowing him) and the wait before using my computer again but I can use something else or use my computer in a other way than now (destroying my CPU would be the worst)

Thanks again.

[An0maly_76]

17 minutes ago, Voltaled said:

Yeah , thanks for cheering me up a bit .

I was kind of mad because the problem was occuring the hour when i usually go to sleep , destroing my sleep schedule . Just looked at the coiler you told me and , just from the reviews, it seems fine!

The hardest part will be the parent convincing ( he will not understand why i suddenly want to move to aircooling again knowing my dad) and the wait before using my computer again but I can use something else or use my computer in a other way than the way it is (destroying my CPU would be the worst)

Thanks again.

 

Take it from Linus... AIO is cool for if you want to spend a lot of time tinkering with your PC... Air-cooling is better for if you actually want to USE it as opposed to tinkering with it. Chalk it up to a lesson learned (almost) the hard way.

 

Another option would be the Noctua NH-D15, similar to the Mugen 5 but dual fan and possibly quieter, though to me, my Corsair LL120s are louder than the Mugen 5. It is more expensive though -- about $100 vs $50-$60 for the Mugen 5.

 

Here is a screenshot of my temps from Cinebench as view by HWinfo, as well as a CPU temp screenshot from Armory Crate (and yes, GuiltySpark I know you're going to cringe at the mere mention -- but HWinfo shows the same chip temp). Be aware, OP, that cpu chip / motherboard temp and cpu package temp are entirely different. Package temp is what most focus on. It all depends on how you view things and what you consider most important. The HWinfo shot is CPU Package temp, the Amory Crate shots are CPU core temp AFAIK.

 

Also, 80C really isn't so bad for the 5600X -- you don't want to keep it there, but AMD is on record as saying the 5800X / 5900X / 5950X are safe to 90C at full load, while saying the 5600X is safe to 95C under full load. So while 80 is outside of what you've been seeing and indicates your AIO may have failed, it's far from cooking the 5600X unless you've been running it like this for months. Even my 5900X has hit 85C a time or two under stress testing, but it rarely tops 57C when gaming, and AFAIK hasn't topped 70C apart from running CIneBench R23.

 

Side note here -- I run a Corsair iCUE Commander XT with six Corsair 120s, three in the nose, two up top and one to the rear. Custom curve ramping 70%-100% between 30C and 80C.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 21, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

[Queen Chrysalis]

3 hours ago, An0maly_76 said:

Also, 80C really isn't so bad for the 5600X -- you don't want to keep it there, but AMD is on record as saying the 5800X / 5900X / 5950X are safe to 90C at full load, while saying the 5600X is safe to 95C under full load. So while 80 is outside of what you've been seeing and indicates your AIO may have failed, it's far from cooking the 5600X unless you've been running it like this for months.

 

This.  Some people would be better off without temperature monitors...

 

80C is completely fine.  These chips are designed to throttle themselves well before they hit any kind of heat that would actually damage it.  The consoles you grew up with were made with inferior silicon, ran hotter, and lasted decades.  Your GPU is probably sitting around 95C at the memory junction whenever you play more intense games but unless you checked that specific sensor you'd be none the wiser.

 

Even running it at 80C 'for months' it'd be fine.  Laptops get this hot all the time but it's not heat that slows them down, its degradation of batteries and components breaking from moving the laptop around physically.

[RMTM]

4 hours ago, Voltaled said:

 

Good thing you guys mentioned that , it´s a watercooler that my dad made me change to a Enermax LIqmax iii (120 mm) . At the beginning the fans would just go crazy for like a random amount of time , than go to normal . Since then the problem didn´t come back , at least until like , 2 days ago.

 

It was effectively turning off automatically due to overheating ( like Origami Cactus said ) and I would turn it off too because of panic (it never happened with my old coolers and old CPUs.

I suggest you use your stock/bundle cpu cooler in the meantime while you are getting a new AIO/water-cooled system.

 

You might want to check and consider Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 series.

[TheDivvs]

2 hours ago, Caroline said:

Yeah because why pay $50 for a decent air cooler, install it and forget about it for 10 years when you can pay more than twice as much for a lower quality product with more moving parts that can and will prematurely fail and give you another massive headache? why just live when you can live AND suffer?!

 

2 hours ago, RMTM said:

I suggest you use your stock/bundle cpu cooler in the meantime while you are getting a new AIO/water-cooled system.

 

You might want to check and consider Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 series.

 

6 hours ago, An0maly_76 said:

 

Take it from Linus... AIO is cool for if you want to spend a lot of time tinkering with your PC... Air-cooling is better for if you actually want to USE it as opposed to tinkering with it. Chalk it up to a lesson learned (almost) the hard way.

 

Another option would be the Noctua NH-D15, similar to the Mugen 5 but dual fan and possibly quieter, though to me, my Corsair LL120s are louder than the Mugen 5. It is more expensive though -- about $100 vs $50-$60 for the Mugen 5.

 

Here is a screenshot of my temps from Cinebench as view by HWinfo, as well as a CPU temp screenshot from Armory Crate (and yes, GuiltySpark I know you're going to cringe at the mere mention -- but HWinfo shows the same chip temp). Be aware, OP, that cpu chip / motherboard temp and cpu package temp are entirely different. Package temp is what most focus on. It all depends on how you view things and what you consider most important. The HWinfo shot is CPU Package temp, the Amory Crate shots are CPU core temp AFAIK.

 

Also, 80C really isn't so bad for the 5600X -- you don't want to keep it there, but AMD is on record as saying the 5800X / 5900X / 5950X are safe to 90C at full load, while saying the 5600X is safe to 95C under full load. So while 80 is outside of what you've been seeing and indicates your AIO may have failed, it's far from cooking the 5600X unless you've been running it like this for months. Even my 5900X has hit 85C a time or two under stress testing, but it rarely tops 57C when gaming, and AFAIK hasn't topped 70C apart from running CIneBench R23.

 

Side note here -- I run a Corsair iCUE Commander XT with six Corsair 120s, three in the nose, two up top and one to the rear. Custom curve ramping 70%-100% between 30C and 80C.

 

 

 

 

Just woke up , I´ll check what cooler is better for my CPU and check if Instay with watercooling or go back to air cooling.

Nevertheless , ( and again ) Thanks for the explanations and everything.

[An0maly_76]

3 hours ago, RMTM said:

I suggest you use your stock/bundle cpu cooler in the meantime while you are getting a new AIO/water-cooled system.

 

You might want to check and consider Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 series.

I don't know about anyone else, but my 5900X didn't come with one. And after what I've seen with my 5900X running a Scythe Mugen 5, I don't think I would trust a 5600X to a stock AMD Wraith cooler.

 

BTW, OP, be aware that the Mugen 5 is offset to its motherboard brackets, so installation is a little tricky. The cooler-to-bracket bolts are 5/16", and one of them is guaranteed to require an offset box end wrench to tighten. I'm also not sure these bolts should be bottomed out in tightening. I didn't, to avoid potential damage and squeezing all the thermal paste out of where it needs to be. I used Corsair XTM50 paste.

Edited March 22, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised

[TheDivvs]

48 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

I don't know about anyone else, but my 5900X didn't come with one. And after what I've seen with my 5900X running a Scythe Mugen 5, I don't think I would trust a 5600X to a stock AMD Wraith cooler.

 

BTW, OP, be aware that the Mugen 5 is offset to its motherboard brackets, so installation is a little tricky. The cooler-to-bracket bolts are 5/16", and one of them  Is guaranteed to require an offset box end wrench to tighten. I'm also not sure these bolts should be bottomed out in tightening. I didn't, to avoid potential damage and squeezing all the thermal paste out of where it needs to be. I used Corsair XTM50 paste.

I don´t have any cooler at my house because my dad threw them away (he´s very smart) and he , as for weird installation , the cooler that I have (the Enermax one ) had his own am4 bracket ,  and my dad threw away theone included with the motherboard.

So even if i had a another cooler for my CPU i would still not be able to put it .

Good thing i can order one , but yeah.

Forgot to tell my dad this morning , I´ll send him a text about the thing and see if the damage that will be caused to my ears is superior than usual.

Good thing I have other thermal paste tubes at my house too.

[An0maly_76]

2 hours ago, Voltaled said:

I don´t have any cooler at my house because my dad threw them away (he´s very smart) and he , as for weird installation , the cooler that I have (the Enermax one ) had his own am4 bracket ,  and my dad threw away theone included with the motherboard.

So even if i had a another cooler for my CPU i would still not be able to put it .

Good thing i can order one , but yeah.

Forgot to tell my dad this morning , I´ll send him a text about the thing and see if the damage that will be caused to my ears is superior than usual.

Good thing I have other thermal paste tubes at my house too.

Here's why I wouldn't trust a stock stealth or Wraith cooler on a 5600x... And that's just against a Deepcool 400 V2. With CPU coolers, number of fans and RPM are a consideration, but what really makes the difference is the cooler surface area and number of heat tubes.

 

Also, before he starts screaming, be sure to mention the Noctua NH-D15 (closest quality / performance competitor for the price) is $100 on average. And while there are differences, your 5600X will be quite safe in the Mugen 5's capable hands.

 

Yes, cheaper coolers exist that may technically fit, but it takes more cooling surface area and heat tube count to efficiently and effectively cool a 5000-series. The 65W 5600X may not be a 105W TDP 5900X, but video doesn't lie. Temps creep up and close an already small gap with certain games. Word to the wise. I'm 46 and buy my own stuff, but I know from watching my own father over the years that as most men get older, they'll pinch a penny hard enough to make stranded wire. And quite frankly, they wind up stepping over hundred-dollar bills to pick up a dime.

 

Prime example, he fussed about the $200 I paid for an AGM battery for my car, citing $50 Mal-Wart batteries. Of course, I'm the one he asks for a jump start when he leaves his lights on. Accordingly, every time I've tried to save money, I got undesirable or lackluster results, or it was a complete waste of money. Hence, I have done my research for the best bang for the buck for quite some time. It's better to just pay a little more and get something you don't have to fuss with or worry about.

 

Also mention that Amazon has the Scythe Mugen 5 Black Edition for $60 (Revision B in a pseudo-satin aluminum finish is $50, personally I prefer the subtlety of the former's black finish) and that either will be a lot cheaper than replacing AIO pumps every 6-12 months or the potential alternative of replacing the CPU. It might take months, it might take years, but throttling or not, high temps are not good for the mainboard either. And a heat-damaged mainboard CAN and WILL fry a CPU in some cases. PC component failure can often have a domino effect. This explanation got a little lengthy, but it bears important life lessons -- that while sometimes less is more, you often get what you pay for.

 

I considered AIO for my 5900X build , but doing my homework, others told me the harsh truths of AIO and that it wasn't really necessary. LTT also has a rather good video on the pros and cons of AIO vs air-cooling. I'm glad I listened. I'm also glad I listened to them about VMR cooling (my original board choice wasn't going to be all that great) and selecting a good case with enough airflow capacity and loading it up with fans.

 

And as far as RGB, sometimes it's better to keep things simple, and sometimes less is more. I have six RGB fans in my setup, but three RGBs are unplugged. To avoid drama of the new build being obvious, I wanted the finished product to look as much like my old rig as possible. I have plain black Crucial Ballistix DDR4-3200. I even set Aura to dark mode on my TUF B550-PLUS and TUF KO 3060ti 8GB.

 

Quite frankly, the only reason I even bought RGB fans is this. The 4000X case I chose included three front RGB 120s for $130. Three LL120 RGBs were $95, and the Commander Core XT was $50. $130+$95+$50 = $275. By contrast, the $95 4000D Airflow only included two fans. A Thermaltake 10-port non-RGB fan controller is $22 on Amazon right now, and Arctic P12s can be had for $10 each. $22 + $40 =$62, and $95 + $62 = $177. And the LL120s are higher airflow, and addressable RGB.

 

This detail allows me to run an iCUE temp monitor scheme -- blue to cover my normal temperature range, turning yellow at 70, then red at 75. My setup won't reach such temps as often either. For $98 more, that's peace of mind you can't buy. I could have replaced the included RGBs with P12s and swapped them to top and rear positions for the same look, but the hassle of doing this to save maybe $95 and get less airflow, it just wasn't worth it. Point is, you often get what you pay for. And bang for the buck is important to me.

 

For example, my 5900X build totaled around $2500, all told. Budgeting $1500 to upgrade the previous rig,I planned to reuse as much as possible, but found quickly that cooling would be an issue. I've rehypothesized my build with the 3800X, the 4000D case, 650W PSU vs 850W, and no RGB control, with the Arctic P12 fans. Quite interesting. Totaled $2089.90. Factoring the GPU and RAM being $104 cheaper now, this watered-down build would still have cost around $2200. But for another $375, I got a better mainboard with VMR cooling, 200W more, early warning temp control, and a faster processor.

Edited March 22, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised

[RMTM]

8 hours ago, Voltaled said:

 

 

Just woke up , I´ll check what cooler is better for my CPU and check if Instay with watercooling or go back to air cooling.

Nevertheless , ( and again ) Thanks for the explanations and everything.

If you go with air-cooling, I suggest you get a Noctua the following models are compatible with your cpu: NH-U12s(add 1 fan) and NH-U12A(either the chromax.black or their original color). You'll never go wrong with those.

[TheDivvs]

2 hours ago, RMTM said:

If you go with air-cooling, I suggest you get a Noctua the following models are compatible with your cpu: NH-U12s(add 1 fan) and NH-U12A(either the chromax.black or their original color). You'll never go wrong with those.

I texted my dad about the heat problem and explained the whole ordeal . He told me that he was going to take a new one ( absolute luck ) and I´ll figure out if I stay with watercooling or go back to aircooling.

I´ll see witch one to take by browsing many sites and recomendations y´all gave me , so that situation never occurs again ( i hope...)

Good thing I know LTT exist and that there is a forum and that experienced people are there

Thanks to you too !

 

[RMTM]

7 hours ago, Voltaled said:

I texted my dad about the heat problem and explained the whole ordeal . He told me that he was going to take a new one ( absolute luck ) and I´ll figure out if I stay with watercooling or go back to aircooling.

I´ll see witch one to take by browsing many sites and recomendations y´all gave me , so that situation never occurs again ( i hope...)

Good thing I know LTT exist and that there is a forum and that experienced people are there

Thanks to you too !

 

You're welcome. Happy to help. Keep safe.