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Refurbing an old Corsair CWCH100 AIO:

b1k3rdude

So for something do that I haven't done before I bought an old H100 from 2011 of ebay for £20 to refurb. Got some EK clear premix coolant for free, bought some silicon hose, mesh tubing, 36x2mm o-ring and some instant silicon gasket off amazon for £22. I used heat-shrink on the mesh tube end to keep it from fraying and a big/small cable-tie on each hose end, and now I have a nice looking spare AIO (see attached).

 

However, there are 3 issues, 2 major and one minor -

  • The pump motor whine (not bulbs noise) is very loud - where the motors in these old CPU block pump's ever quiet..?
  • I think the PTFE/Ceramic bearing on the motor is worn as the vibration from the pump can be heard through my kitchen counter-top - is this normal for these old CPU block pump's..?
  • Despite trying to get the water level in the AIO to 95% (5% air to allow for expansion), I occasionally get some bubble noise, rad is above the block/pump during testing. - Is this normal for such an old AIO, or is the air gap bigger than 5%?

I don't think anything can be done about the motor in the block so -

  • convert this to open loop with a used res/pump combo.
  • or find a refillable cpu block/pump to keep it as an AIO - if so where do I go looking for this?

 

thanks.

20210221_131101.jpg

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did you take apart the block?

how did you fill it?

which coolant did you use?

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2 hours ago, narrdarr said:
  • did you take apart the block?
  • how did you fill it?
  • which coolant did you use?
  • yes, had to clean it.
  • rad standing ports up, pump/block on the counter top with the hose coming from the pump in my hand water injected into system from that point untill is came out the rad spigot. Then plugged both open ends and rotated rad and pump to to check levels, never got it to the point it would never make noise when rotated.
  • See my post above.

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20 minutes ago, b1k3rdude said:
  • yes, had to clean it.
  • rad standing ports up, pump/block on the counter top with the hose coming from the pump in my hand water injected into system from that point untill is came out the rad spigot. Then plugged both open ends and rotated rad and pump to to check levels, never got it to the point it would never make noise when rotated.
  • See my post above.

 

so a couple things here.

1. you want to get out as much air as possible forget the idea of leaving air in the system for expansion. plus you won't be able to get all the air without a lot of work, but even then....

2. cleaning the pump. I hope you fully disassembled the pump many don't notice that the impeller can be removed. grim underneath it will make a lot of noise when the pump is spinning. 

3. filling. the best way is submerge the radiator in coolant as the pump hangs out . but there a a lot of issues like:

you need a crap ton of coolant. 

weak pump design which would struggle with move air out of the system.(more on this in a bit)

      the method I use. is filling through the cold plate. hold the aio by the pump let the rad hang down.  fill, fill, fill, shake the shit out of the rad, fill, fill, shake, shake. you can also squeeze the hoses.when you release the hose it acts like a vacuum and will pull air up. if you can hold the assembly together squeeze the hoses while its running may yield in more air coming out. once you have as much air out and with the coolant at the very top and the gaskets and screw on the the coldplate. it will overflow make sure to have paper towels. 

     one it filled up and sealed. run it with the pump at the lowest point and shake the pump like crazy to help move any air out 

4. pump design

the pump motor and propeller are pretty solid. its pitfall is the inlet to the propeller is really small. this is an issue:

   as no matter how fast the motor makes spins the flow rate won't improve over x amount

   noise level of the motor is louder than it needs to be.

          I have heard of people putting a resistor 

on the the line to the pump so it doesn't spin as fast.

    air in the pump can make a lot noise too. it also will take more time remove. 

5. coolant used

still not sure which coolant you are use. but I hope you mean cyrofuel. I used primochill utopia same thing.  but a 1:3 ratio of PG or EG with distilled water is to better than both.

    

 

 

anyways hope this help you some how 

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10 hours ago, narrdarr said:
  1.  You want to get out as much air as possible forget the idea of leaving air in the system for expansion. plus you won't be able to get all the air without a lot of work, but even then....
  2. cleaning the pump. 
  3. filling. the best way is submerge the radiator in coolant as the pump hangs out . but there a a lot of issues like:
  4. the method I use. is filling through the cold plate.
  5.  Once it filled up and sealed. run it with the pump at the lowest point.
  6. the pump motor and propeller are pretty solid. its pitfall is the inlet to the propeller is really small. 
  7. still not sure which coolant you are use. but I hope you mean cyrofuel.

 

  1. Most AIO's do have an air-gap from factor, see gamers nexus.
  2. The pump required no cleaning it was spotless inside and yes I removed and checked the rotor.
  3. Not gonna happen for several reasons, but primary that much coolant is to expensive and I would have no use for it after the fact (the AIO only hold around 200ml).
  4. I did consider this, the issue is I am worried that my silicon trick (a second thinner sealing o-ring under the main/worn o-ring) will need to be re-applied. So the AIO would need to be partially drained to re-do the above, if it has crushed down and needs to be re-applied.
  5. Yeah did that and it does settle down for the most part.
  6. Copy and pasted from the OP "EK clear premix"

The pump/block does have a (non-user) filler port and I can see (like the hose spigots) its held in with a small pin, so I could try and push this pin out and pop the cap out and to-pup from there.

Ryzen 9 5900X | ALFII 280 | X570 MEG ACE | 32GB Patriot 3733-CL16-20-20-38 | Msi Tri-X 4080 | S-Blaster Z | Sabrent Rocket4 plus-g, Crucial P1, WD Green | Fractal ION 850W 80+ Gold | Define R6 | LG 34GN850 | L-tech K120 & Razer D-adder Mini |

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18 hours ago, b1k3rdude said:
  • or find a refillable cpu block/pump to keep it as an AIO - if so where do I go looking for this?

Bump.

Ryzen 9 5900X | ALFII 280 | X570 MEG ACE | 32GB Patriot 3733-CL16-20-20-38 | Msi Tri-X 4080 | S-Blaster Z | Sabrent Rocket4 plus-g, Crucial P1, WD Green | Fractal ION 850W 80+ Gold | Define R6 | LG 34GN850 | L-tech K120 & Razer D-adder Mini |

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7 hours ago, b1k3rdude said:

Bump.

either alphacool or swiftech

eisbear Lt

eisbear solo

eisbear aurora

 

apogee driver ii

 

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unless Im missing something, these all appear to be complete AIO's, so defeating the purpose.

Ryzen 9 5900X | ALFII 280 | X570 MEG ACE | 32GB Patriot 3733-CL16-20-20-38 | Msi Tri-X 4080 | S-Blaster Z | Sabrent Rocket4 plus-g, Crucial P1, WD Green | Fractal ION 850W 80+ Gold | Define R6 | LG 34GN850 | L-tech K120 & Razer D-adder Mini |

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Ah thanks for that, they all looks good, but only if I can find them s/h. So will keep an eye out.

Ryzen 9 5900X | ALFII 280 | X570 MEG ACE | 32GB Patriot 3733-CL16-20-20-38 | Msi Tri-X 4080 | S-Blaster Z | Sabrent Rocket4 plus-g, Crucial P1, WD Green | Fractal ION 850W 80+ Gold | Define R6 | LG 34GN850 | L-tech K120 & Razer D-adder Mini |

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