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Hi guys, this is the first time I post on this website, asking for some help. I own an Asus Rog Strix 2080Ti GPU, and I decided to buy a custom water cooling from EK. Everything was fine, until I tried to install the waterblock for the GPU, by mistake, I broke a little piece located on the top of the card (PCB I think). At first, I asked on Facebook about the problem, and some users told me that the piece I broke might be a capacitor, and should be replaced by another one with the same capacitance, but I dont know is thats right, and if it's, what capacitance capacitor to choose. Also, I would like to tell you that I havent tried to use the GPU yet, mainly because I havent finished installing the water cooling loop, and also, because I dont know if turning it on or powering it would be risky.

 

I will add a photo of the place where the piece I broke was located, so I wanted to ask if anybody know what replacemente should I get, and if it's a serious issue or not.

 

(Lastly, I would like to apologize if my English isnt good enough, I live in Chile, so my first language is Spanish)

 

Thank you so much for your help!!

GPU1.jpg

GPU2.jpg

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it's fine even if you dont replace it tbh, the increased voltage ripple will be minor and don't really affect operation. It can hurt resale value tho so do RMA if possible

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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you can probably run the card fine, but in case you want it back, send it in. don't tell them you took the cooler off or they'l' try to void the warranty

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Yes, that's a Capacitor, if you do not have SMD soldering experience I would not be risking your first try, or your hundredth frankly on such an expensive graphics card. Getting the capacitance is almost impossible unless you have the original part (in which case you should use that one anyway). If you do not have the part and can't RMA it (as you have damaged it) I personally would recommend putting the card back together and trying it with its air cooler in the case first, since a single capacitor of that size is unlikely to kill the card immediately. It could be dead anyway. If it's dead, your only option would then be to find someone to solder the capacitor back on.

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