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Hello i need help/tips

So i got my first gaming pc (budget build) and now was planning to upgrade the gpu from a Rx550 to a GTX 1660ti. I saw the recommended system power is 450 for the 1660ti. But my power supply is a corsair VS450 and my CPU is a i5 3470 and my motherboard is a H61m with 8gb of ddr3. 

 

My question is “should i get a new power supply to lessen the risk of it popping? Should i get a 550w or a 600w psu?”

 

Note: im also planning to buy a new

motherboard maybe a b360 or b450 soon. 

 

Thanks. I need all the help i can get.

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The VS series is pretty poor anyway so yes by all means replace the PSU. 

زندگی از چراغ

Intel Core i7 7800X 6C/12T (4.5GHz), Corsair H150i Pro RGB (360mm), Asus Prime X299-A, Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4X4GB & 2X8GB 3000MHz DDR4), MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X 8G (2.113GHz core & 9.104GHz memory), 1 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB NVMe M.2, 1 Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, 1 Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD, 1 WD Red 1TB mechanical drive, Corsair RM750X 80+ Gold fully modular PSU, Corsair Obsidian 750D full tower case, Corsair Glaive RGB mouse, Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 (Cherry MX Red) keyboard, Asus VN247HA (1920x1080 60Hz 16:9), Audio Technica ATH-M20x headphones & Windows 10 Home 64 bit. 

 

 

The time Linus replied to me on one of my threads: 

 

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4 minutes ago, RiggsCol said:

Note: im also planning to buy a new

motherboard maybe a b360 or b450 soon. 

Do you mean that you'll upgrade to a Ryzen processor?

B450 is a chipset for AM4 cpus

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Just now, RiggsCol said:

What can you recommend? 

Corsair CX550M

زندگی از چراغ

Intel Core i7 7800X 6C/12T (4.5GHz), Corsair H150i Pro RGB (360mm), Asus Prime X299-A, Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4X4GB & 2X8GB 3000MHz DDR4), MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X 8G (2.113GHz core & 9.104GHz memory), 1 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB NVMe M.2, 1 Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, 1 Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD, 1 WD Red 1TB mechanical drive, Corsair RM750X 80+ Gold fully modular PSU, Corsair Obsidian 750D full tower case, Corsair Glaive RGB mouse, Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 (Cherry MX Red) keyboard, Asus VN247HA (1920x1080 60Hz 16:9), Audio Technica ATH-M20x headphones & Windows 10 Home 64 bit. 

 

 

The time Linus replied to me on one of my threads: 

 

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9 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

You already have the PSU.  The 1660 Ti is hardly a powerful card.  You'll be fine.

 

Well, it needs around 140w at most, so, even a good 400-450w unit will suffice without CPU-OC-ing.

Life is really challenging. I don't always suceed: )

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9 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

You already have the PSU.  The 1660 Ti is hardly a powerful card.  You'll be fine.

 

I got scared cause it says recommended power is 450 and this is my first pc that i bought/built. Might gamble a little. I can buy a new psu maybe by next week when i get paid. 

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1 minute ago, RiggsCol said:

I got scared cause it says recommended power is 450 and this is my first pc that i bought/built. Might gamble a little. I can buy a new psu maybe by next week when i get paid. 

I'd keep the PSU, you can always upgrade later. Not a good unit, but hardly "dangerous" or abysmal. It shall do just fine, later you can get better one (ie.: bitfenix formula gold or seasonic focus gold-focus plus gold..)

Life is really challenging. I don't always suceed: )

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2 minutes ago, Vejnemojnen said:

I'd keep the PSU, you can always upgrade later. Not a good unit, but hardly "dangerous" or abysmal. It shall do just fine, later you can get better one (ie.: bitfenix formula gold or seasonic focus gold-focus plus gold..)

What psu and wattage can you recommend. Planning to upgrade soon to an i5 8400 probably and a b360 motherboard with 16gb of ram. 

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Just now, RiggsCol said:

What do you mean of “it need around 140w at most”? 

1660ti is a very economic card, even under full load it hardly consumes any watts at all

 

see this for power consumption

Or this

 

The total power required by your system will be around 270watts-280watts, so, a good 450w unit will be all you'd need.

Life is really challenging. I don't always suceed: )

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1 minute ago, Vejnemojnen said:

Well, it needs around 140w at most, so, even a good 400-450w unit will suffice without CPU-OC-ing.

At least the VS has the proper protections required in case something catastrophic goes wrong.  So let's break this down....

 

Why is the VS not a good PSU?

 

It's not very efficient (only 80 PLUS and not 80 PLUS Bronze)

It's group regulated so it makes a lot of noise OR can suddenly reboot under high slew loads.

It does not have DC to DC so it does not support newer sleep states.

It cannot do full output at temperatures over 30°C (though it can output most of it at upwards of 50°C with a derating curve).

 

Why this may or may not matter to you:

 

You already own the PSU.  The ROI for buying something that is more efficient is not going to be seen.  

Your graphics card is "low end" and does not have high slew loads.

You can disable C6 and higher sleep states in the BIOS if the PC fails to wake up from sleep with them enabled.

How hot is the room you're planning to use this PC in?

 

7 minutes ago, LinusTechTipsFanFromDarlo said:

Corsair CX550M

How is the CX550M better?

 

It's 100W more... which the OP does not need.  

It's 80 PLUS Bronze, so it will use less power from the wall, but he won't see the ROI from that for a long time.

It has DC to DC so it will support the newer sleep states.

It's semi-modular so unused cables can be discarded.

It's rated at 40°C max output.

 

It's still a double forward front end... but that shouldn't matter with the OP's graphics card.

 

A more "solid" recommendation would be the CX (no M).

 

The non-modular CX is more efficient than VS.

The CX uses an LLC resonant topology as well as has DC to DC.

 

The down side is the CX is non-modular... but so is the VS.

 

Hope this helps!

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8 minutes ago, RiggsCol said:

I got scared cause it says recommended power is 450 and this is my first pc that i bought/built. Might gamble a little. I can buy a new psu maybe by next week when i get paid. 

When they "recommend" a power supply on a graphics card box, they're assuming absolute worst case scenario.  As in:  Your PC is maxed out with crap and you have one of those crappy 200W PSUs with a 450W label (i.e. Deer, Raidmax, Powmax, LC Power, etc.).

 

A quality 450W is even overkill.  Emphasis on the word "quality".

 

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6 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

When they "recommend" a power supply on a graphics card box, they're assuming absolute worst case scenario.  As in:  Your PC is maxed out with crap and you have one of those crappy 200W PSUs with a 450W label (i.e. Deer, Raidmax, Powmax, LC Power, etc.).

 

A quality 450W is even overkill.  Emphasis on the word "quality".

 

What can you say about deepcool psu’s? Are they good enough? What brands are the good or best quality psu’s. 

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9 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

At least the VS has the proper protections required in case something catastrophic goes wrong.  So let's break this down....

 

Why is the VS not a good PSU?

 

It's not very efficient (only 80 PLUS and not 80 PLUS Bronze)

It's group regulated so it makes a lot of noise OR can suddenly reboot under high slew loads.

It does not have DC to DC so it does not support newer sleep states.

It cannot do full output at temperatures over 30°C (though it can output most of it at upwards of 50°C with a derating curve).

 

Why this may or may not matter to you:

 

You already own the PSU.  The ROI for buying something that is more efficient is not going to be seen.  

Your graphics card is "low end" and does not have high slew loads.

You can disable C6 and higher sleep states in the BIOS if the PC fails to wake up from sleep with them enabled.

How hot is the room you're planning to use this PC in?

 

How is the CX550M better?

 

It's 100W more... which the OP does not need.  

It's 80 PLUS Bronze, so it will use less power from the wall, but he won't see the ROI from that for a long time.

It has DC to DC so it will support the newer sleep states.

It's semi-modular so unused cables can be discarded.

It's rated at 40°C max output.

 

It's still a double forward front end... but that shouldn't matter with the OP's graphics card.

 

A more "solid" recommendation would be the CX (no M).

 

The non-modular CX is more efficient than VS.

The CX uses an LLC resonant topology as well as has DC to DC.

 

The down side is the CX is non-modular... but so is the VS.

 

Hope this helps!

Im playing in my room using ac all the time. 

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Just now, RiggsCol said:

What can you say about deepcool psu’s? Are they good enough? What brands are the good or best quality psu’s. 

I already mentioned that why the CX-M and CX are better.  You need more?

 

Deepcool is a brand.  Not a model.  You cannot judge an entire product line because of the brand on the label.  The ones I mentioned make mostly bad products, so they should be avoided.   If you see a particular model Deepcool that you're interested in, please tell us which one and we'll tell you how it stacks up.  But I will warn you that most of the lower wattage Deep Cool PSUs on the market aren't even as good as the VS you already have.

 

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3 hours ago, RiggsCol said:

What can you say about deepcool psu’s? Are they good enough? What brands are the good or best quality psu’s. 

I looked at the Deep Cool website.

 

The DN and DE series are actually worse than what you already have.

 

The DA is about the same.

 

The DQ is an improvement.

 

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