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After watching the sleeper Xbox Build, I haven't been able to let go of the idea of replicating the build. I have access to a machine shop this semester (Solid State Physics Lab class! Whoooo), and can most likely CNC the liner from the CAD files they provided in the description of the video.

But it seems there was a LOT that kind of got yada-yada'd over. How did they wire the power button from the Xbox chassis to the ATX power pins on the motherboard? Did they just swap out the hardware for some other pushbuttons? How about the USB (2.1? 3.1?) ports in place of the xbox's proprietary controller ports?


I have a dead Original xbox just rotting away in my closet, and I would love to have a sleeper for some couch gaming with my girlfriend. I'm still figuring out the exact hardware I want to use, part of me is thinking of just getting a NUC and mounting it alongside the internals of an EGPU inside the xbox chassis. But that still leaves the problem of the power switch and USB ports.

 

In an ideal world, I'd 3d print or otherwise mount a mini-itx mobo tray inside the xbox, with some sort of solution for a gpu bracket as well (that doesn't involve hacking a port off), with the Xbox power and eject switches wired to the motherboard's power and reset connectors.

 

edit since I forgot: To make it a hardware and software sleeper, once it's configured, I would use Windows 10 Pro's group policy editor to disable Explorer.exe, and instead force it to load steam.exe on startup, with flags both in steam settings and GPE to start steam's big picture mode on boot. I would also disable user pw and have it auto-login (the only thing loaded on it would be steam, and the windows account would be a local account, not a Microsoft account). Origin, Uplay, and GoG games would be loaded through the steam launcher.

Edited by Williamthev
forgot to expand on the plans to make it a sleeper on the software side as well.
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The power button just involves taking the wires that are already attached to the power button and connecting them to the power button header on the motherboard. This becomes easier if you have a case header connector to snip the wires off of and solder the power button to. Here's the pinout.

frontpanelheader640.jpg

 

The USB ports were probably accomplished with USB 2 internal to female USB A cables like this one https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

 

 

Edit:

Here's the exact cables used on the USB ports from the video's forum thread.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XCVSPZ1/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=linustechti06-20

 

and the thread itself

 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

 

Desktop:

Intel Core i7-11700K | Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black | ASUS ROG Strix Z590-E Gaming WiFi  | 32 GB G.SKILL TridentZ 3200 MHz | ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 3080 | 1TB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSD | 2TB WD Blue M.2 SATA SSD | Seasonic Focus GX-850 Fractal Design Meshify C Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop:

HP Omen 15 | AMD Ryzen 7 5800H | 16 GB 3200 MHz | Nvidia RTX 3060 | 1 TB WD Black PCIe 3.0 SSD | 512 GB Micron PCIe 3.0 SSD | Windows 11

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3 hours ago, AYyyKez said:

@BobVonBob Do you know what NC is for? if its no connection then why does it have a wire and 10 doesnt "empty"? could you explain if you know? sorry im an idiot.

Probably "Not Connected", maybe it was for something that got removed/was planned to be added and it was too late in the production timeline to change.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

 

Desktop:

Intel Core i7-11700K | Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black | ASUS ROG Strix Z590-E Gaming WiFi  | 32 GB G.SKILL TridentZ 3200 MHz | ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 3080 | 1TB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSD | 2TB WD Blue M.2 SATA SSD | Seasonic Focus GX-850 Fractal Design Meshify C Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop:

HP Omen 15 | AMD Ryzen 7 5800H | 16 GB 3200 MHz | Nvidia RTX 3060 | 1 TB WD Black PCIe 3.0 SSD | 512 GB Micron PCIe 3.0 SSD | Windows 11

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