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I'm currently running a gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3 1155socket with an intel core i7-2600k, 16GB 1600MHz ddr3 kingston hyperX and a Gigabyte GeForce G1 GAMING GTX 960 2GB and feel like it's gotten a bit old and doesn't really hold upp for what i need so i wanted to build a new one. I have a bit of an idea what i want, that said i'm still a bit indecisive as to what to choose on some parts. The aim is mainly gaming as well as some use of PS, AE and C4D. I live in sweden and will convert to USD so that's why it might not match upp exactly with US prices. Feel free to tell me what you all think.

 

CPU  Intel Core i7-8086K Limited Edition or Intel Core i9-9900K   552USD vs 662USD (Worth the price difference?)

 

Motherboard ASRock Z390 Taichi Ultimate ATX   364USD (or other with wifi since i currently don't have the possibility for wired)

 

RAM Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200MHz 32GB (Bought of a friend already since he wanted RGB instead)

 

Storage Samsung 970 EVO 500GB M.2 (OS drive&small programs, 150USD), Samsung 860 EVO 2TB SSD (Games&misc programs, 420USD), Seagate Barracuda 3TB HDD (Mass storage music, movies, etc, 105USD)

 

Video Card Asus Geforce GTX 1070Ti ROG Strix 8GB (Already have this lying around from when i helped my brother uppgrade a few weeks ago, will this bottleneck the cpu in some way?)

 

Case Corsair Obsidian 750D (Have this already, bought it from a friend who went for a new smaller case and i knew i will be uppgrading soon)

 

PSU Corsair RM850x 850W (Have it already cause of same reason as the video card, should be enough... right?)

 

CPU Cooler Looking for a good 360mm closed loop watercooler, suggestions are welcome

 

Other I'm currently using two monitors and won't be getting a third any time soon, might switch out the older one for a new 27inch one tho since it has a few dead pixels, no need for OS or other peripherals

 

Other possibilities Might it be worth waiting and see what/if intel brings out later this year?

 

Budget Around 2500 USD

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For gaming as the primary focus, get an 8700k and a Z370 board like the EVGA FTW.

Any particular reason you need a CLC?

Grab a Bitfenix Formula Gold 550W, that's all you'd need and then some.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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34 minutes ago, Luring in the dark said:

I'm currently running a gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3 1155socket with an intel core i7-2600k, 16GB 1600MHz ddr3 kingston hyperX and a Gigabyte GeForce G1 GAMING GTX 960 2GB and feel like it's gotten a bit old and doesn't really hold upp for what i need so i wanted to build a new one. I have a bit of an idea what i want, that said i'm still a bit indecisive as to what to choose on some parts. The aim is mainly gaming as well as some use of PS, AE and C4D. I live in sweden and will convert to USD so that's why it might not match upp exactly with US prices. Feel free to tell me what you all think.

 

CPU  Intel Core i7-8086K Limited Edition or Intel Core i9-9900K   552USD vs 662USD (Worth the price difference?)

 

Motherboard ASRock Z390 Taichi Ultimate ATX   364USD (or other with wifi since i currently don't have the possibility for wired)

 

RAM Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200MHz 32GB (Bought of a friend already since he wanted RGB instead)

 

Storage Samsung 970 EVO 500GB M.2 (OS drive&small programs, 150USD), Samsung 860 EVO 2TB SSD (Games&misc programs, 420USD), Seagate Barracuda 3TB HDD (Mass storage music, movies, etc, 105USD)

 

Video Card Asus Geforce GTX 1070Ti ROG Strix 8GB (Already have this lying around from when i helped my brother uppgrade a few weeks ago, will this bottleneck the cpu in some way?)

 

Case Corsair Obsidian 750D (Have this already, bought it from a friend who went for a new smaller case and i knew i will be uppgrading soon)

 

PSU Corsair RM850x 850W (Have it already cause of same reason as the video card, should be enough... right?)

 

CPU Cooler Looking for a good 360mm closed loop watercooler, suggestions are welcome

 

Other I'm currently using two monitors and won't be getting a third any time soon, might switch out the older one for a new 27inch one tho since it has a few dead pixels, no need for OS or other peripherals

 

Other possibilities Might it be worth waiting and see what/if intel brings out later this year?

the i9-9900k is basically an i7-8700k with 2 extra cores, you won't see much of a difference in games. I would suggest you get the 8700k over the 8086k because the 8086k is just a binned 8700k and not worth the extra money if you're on a budget. I have an 8700k and 8086k there's hardly any difference, but the 8086 does overclock slightly higher. I got it mainly as a collectible. Also your PSU is a bit overkill. I have an 8086k + 1070 ti with AX760 and the max watts i'm using is around 300-350 which is barely hitting the 50% sweet spot for power use. For storage I would save the money and get a competitive cheaper drive like hp, intel, or crucial. The nvme drives are so fast your money would be better spent else where like getting a rtx 2070 instead. 

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11 hours ago, fasauceome said:

For gaming as the primary focus, get an 8700k and a Z370 board like the EVGA FTW.

Any particular reason you need a CLC?

Grab a Bitfenix Formula Gold 550W, that's all you'd need and then some.

I guess CLC stands for closed loop cooler, correct me if i'm wrong. I'v not really read much on custom loops so i don't really know how often it needs to be cleaned and exactly what parts are needed. I could look it upp but in the end it comes down to lazyness.

I could buy the EVGA Z379 FTW which would be 288USD but would then need to also add a wifi card, i don't know how well the integrated ones on the motherboards work but if i would compare the on board ones with lets say an ASUS PCE-AC56 AC1300 would that be alright? The wifi card is 67USD at which point we are at 355USD for the EVGA mobo and a wifi card. Which is only 9USD less than the Z390 Taichi Ultimate for 364USD. would it still be worth it? Currently i'm using a cheap little no name usb wifi dongle that i really wanna move away from.

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1 hour ago, Luring in the dark said:

I'v not really read much on custom loops so i don't really know how often it needs to be cleaned and exactly what parts are needed. I could look it upp but in the end it comes down to lazyness.

Specifically, why water cooling? As opposed to a top notch air cooler.

 

1 hour ago, Luring in the dark said:
1 hour ago, Luring in the dark said:

I could buy the EVGA Z379 FTW which would be 288USD but would then need to also add a wifi card

 

Good point, but I still think you don't need such an expensive motherboard for only an 8700k or 8086k. The 9900k may benefit from the overbuilt VRMs, but it's gonna be money that's not getting put to good use in most cases. A cheaper Z370 with WiFi would be good value.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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11 hours ago, Pachuca said:

the i9-9900k is basically an i7-8700k with 2 extra cores, you won't see much of a difference in games. I would suggest you get the 8700k over the 8086k because the 8086k is just a binned 8700k and not worth the extra money if you're on a budget. I have an 8700k and 8086k there's hardly any difference, but the 8086 does overclock slightly higher. I got it mainly as a collectible. Also your PSU is a bit overkill. I have an 8086k + 1070 ti with AX760 and the max watts i'm using is around 300-350 which is barely hitting the 50% sweet spot for power use. For storage I would save the money and get a competitive cheaper drive like hp, intel, or crucial. The nvme drives are so fast your money would be better spent else where like getting a rtx 2070 instead. 

The budget is around 2500USD. The 8700k is 11USD less then the 8086k, so taking what you said into account the 8700k would be the choice then. There is also the 9700k which has 8 cores but 4 threads less then the 8700k, how would the 9700k fare? The 9700k is 514USD.

As for the psu, it is as i said something i already have lying around, i would rather use something that i have and will work instead of buying something new and have the old just collect dust. If there are no drawbacks other then just being overkill i will probably stick with it. As for the 50% sweet spot, will the psu have a shorter life span if it is "under" used?

For M.2 storage i choose samsung since i could get  a Corsair Force MP300 480GB M.2 for 144 USD but 20GB less, Intel 660p 512GB M.2 for 142USD or Crucial P1 500GB M.2 for 133USD but all with less read/write speed than the samsung but then again i don't know how much it would impact since M.2 is already pretty fast. As for the 2TB ssd i will probably switch to the Crucial MX500 for 398USD instead.

For the video card, the cheapest 2070 i can find right now is the Gainward GeForce RTX 2070 Dual Fan 8GB for 635 but i'v heard that people arn't really happy with them price/performance wise? Also heard people say that the rtx 2060 is a better pick?

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4 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Specifically, why water cooling? As opposed to a top notch air cooler.

 

Good point, but I still think you don't need such an expensive motherboard for only an 8700k or 8086k. The 9900k may benefit from the overbuilt VRMs, but it's gonna be money that's not getting put to good use in most cases. A cheaper Z370 with WiFi would be good value.

As to why water cooling over air is because after seeing other builds i think it looks a bit cleaner, also i feel like trying something different from having used air cooling upp til now.

I will take a look at Z370 boards since most likely after what Pachuca said i will probably go for an 8700k.

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3 hours ago, Luring in the dark said:

The budget is around 2500USD. The 8700k is 11USD less then the 8086k, so taking what you said into account the 8700k would be the choice then. There is also the 9700k which has 8 cores but 4 threads less then the 8700k, how would the 9700k fare?

It won't be a huge difference between 8700k and 9700k. Get the cheaper of the 2. Personally I'm waiting on Sunny Cove to be released. Intel is promising increased performance on those and a slightly different architecture in the CPU. 

 

3 hours ago, Luring in the dark said:

As for the psu, it is as i said something i already have lying around, i would rather use something that i have and will work instead of buying something new and have the old just collect dust. If there are no drawbacks other then just being overkill i will probably stick with it. As for the 50% sweet spot, will the psu have a shorter life span if it is "under" used?

A PSU that runs at 50% will save you money on the electric bill, it won't effect the life span. 

 

3 hours ago, Luring in the dark said:

For M.2 storage i choose samsung since i could get  a Corsair Force MP300 480GB M.2 for 144 USD but 20GB less, Intel 660p 512GB M.2 for 142USD or Crucial P1 500GB M.2 for 133USD but all with less read/write speed than the samsung but then again i don't know how much it would impact since M.2 is already pretty fast. As for the 2TB ssd i will probably switch to the Crucial MX500 for 398USD instead.

I have had different m.2 drives from samsung 960 pro to WD nvme black, to hp, to bpx, and intel 660p, etc. There's literally no noticeable difference for gaming/web browsing. Aim to get something with decent performance and cheaper (it doesn't have to be top of the line, can even get previous gen nvme drives). As for the read/write speeds those won't matter for noticeable performance as much as the 4k random read/write. The only time you will ever see a difference is if you're transferring a huge file from the nvme to the ssd/hdd and even then it won't matter since you're going to be bottle-necked by the ssd/hdd speeds.

 

4 hours ago, Luring in the dark said:

For the video card, the cheapest 2070 i can find right now is the Gainward GeForce RTX 2070 Dual Fan 8GB for 635 but i'v heard that people arn't really happy with them price/performance wise? Also heard people say that the rtx 2060 is a better pick?

Yeah, the rtx 2060 is almost the same as the 2070 when you overclock it. I'm not a fan of the RTX series right now because you're paying for tech that games don't really use (ray tracing). No telling if the industry will even go in that direction due to the high price tag of these cards. If I had to put a system together now, I would try to get a 1070 ti and just wait to see how the ray tracing plays out, maybe even wait until the next gen gpu is released.

 

good luck, pls share your final build :)

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1 hour ago, Pachuca said:

It won't be a huge difference between 8700k and 9700k. Get the cheaper of the 2. Personally I'm waiting on Sunny Cove to be released. Intel is promising increased performance on those and a slightly different architecture in the CPU. 

 

A PSU that runs at 50% will save you money on the electric bill, it won't effect the life span. 

 

I have had different m.2 drives from samsung 960 pro to WD nvme black, to hp, to bpx, and intel 660p, etc. There's literally no noticeable difference for gaming/web browsing. Aim to get something with decent performance and cheaper (it doesn't have to be top of the line, can even get previous gen nvme drives). As for the read/write speeds those won't matter for noticeable performance as much as the 4k random read/write. The only time you will ever see a difference is if you're transferring a huge file from the nvme to the ssd/hdd and even then it won't matter since you're going to be bottle-necked by the ssd/hdd speeds.

 

Yeah, the rtx 2060 is almost the same as the 2070 when you overclock it. I'm not a fan of the RTX series right now because you're paying for tech that games don't really use (ray tracing). No telling if the industry will even go in that direction due to the high price tag of these cards. If I had to put a system together now, I would try to get a 1070 ti and just wait to see how the ray tracing plays out, maybe even wait until the next gen gpu is released.

 

good luck, pls share your final build :)

Waiting for sunny cove could be an option but i fear they would be putting it out with a pretty high price point or just making it like the rtx where it isn't really that much better then the 8th or 9th gen cpus, then again havn't really followed the cpu news for a good while. Do you think they will make sunny cove compatible with current motherboards or continue with new mobos for the new processors?

Will probably use both the psu and the 1070Ti from my brothers old build then since it will save me some money for now and as what i heard and what you said aswell the rtx line is using tech that's not really useful yet.

Will see what M.2 drive it will be, i'll probably check some return/discount bins in stores after work during the week, might find something useful. Where thinking of ordering like thursday or friday so have a bit of time left.

 

Thx, will definitely share how it turns out ^^

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19 hours ago, lee32uk said:

It won't really save him anything as the difference in efficiency will be extremely tiny.

That depends on his use case, keep in mind that in Sweden they pay almost double for electric compared to the US. That means 2%-5% inefficiency would add up to a lot of $$$$ over a few years. Enough to justify buying a different PSU if that PSU would mean he breaks even at some point from savings. There are too many unknown variables to get an exact metric for this, but that 50% spot is ideal.

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6 minutes ago, Pachuca said:

That depends on his use case, keep in mind that in Sweden they pay almost double for electric compared to the US. That means 2%-5% inefficiency would add up to a lot of $$$$ over a few years. Enough to justify buying a different PSU if that PSU would mean he breaks even at some point from savings. There are too many unknown variables to get an exact metric for this, but that 50% spot is ideal.

Not sure where you are getting up to 5% from ? A good quality Gold rated unit might have a couple of % difference at it's most efficient loads.

 

You can see the efficiency curve for the Corsair RMx 850W below. It only drops off under low load (under 150W or so). So anything over that is in the range of 90% - 92%.

 

https://www.tomshardware.co.uk/corsair-rm850x-v2-psu,review-34350-5.html

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2 hours ago, lee32uk said:

Not sure where you are getting up to 5% from ? A good quality Gold rated unit might have a couple of % difference at it's most efficient loads.

 

You can see the efficiency curve for the Corsair RMx 850W below. It only drops off under low load (under 150W or so). So anything over that is in the range of 90% - 92%.

 

https://www.tomshardware.co.uk/corsair-rm850x-v2-psu,review-34350-5.html

yeah, you're right. forgot they use 230v too. 

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