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Hello, Im considering building a loop for my new pc build i was looking to get some guidance and help to make sure i have everything i need and it will work. Here is my pc specs EVGA 3080 FTW3 - Reusing my current GPU ASRock z790 Nova Core I7 14700K -- looking at using Kryosheet instead of paste TG intel contact frame 64gb G.Skill Trident Z5 DDR5 6400MT/s Corsair RM1000e Phanteks NV7 12 Phanteks D30 Fans Here are some of the parts im looking at for my loop, let me know your thoughts on these parts and anything else i need or dont need 1x Heatgun 1x Alphacool Core Hurrican 360mm XT45 HardTube Water Cooling Set (11993) 1x Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Acryl GPX-N RTX 3080/3090 FTW3 with backplate (11943) 1x Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm (14166) 1x Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm (14344) 1x EKWB EK-CryoFuel Premix 1000mL 1x Alphacool Eisrohr PETG HardTube 13mm ID 16mm OD 60cm clear 4 pack (18514) 1x ASHATA 16mm bending kit 1x Corsair hydro X series xf ball valve 1x Marrteum G1/4" 3-way ball fitting extender connectors 2 Pack 1x Barrow G1/4" Composite plate filter x1 PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid RevolverSX series fittings 12 pack x2 Barrow G1/4" Male to Male mini extender fitting 4 Pack I have attached some Ideas for the layout if you could give me some feed back on these as well. they arent the best photos i made them at work with MS paint lol

So I was considering moving to a custom water-cooling system, since my case has lots of rooms for radiators, and then I was considering cooling the GPU as well. So my case, the Corsair Graphite 780T, can hold a 360mm/240mm radiator on the top, and a 360/240mm radiator on the front. I was gonna go overkill and get the 360mm for the top mount, but was considering mounting as 240mm radiator on the front, so I could better cool two parts. So I've come here to LTT to ask the opinion of a more experienced PC Builder: Will I need a second radiator in between the CPU and the GPU, or will a 360mm radiator be enough to cool a Ryzen 7 3700x and an Asus RTX 2070 STRIX? Case: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Graphite-Series™-780T-Full-Tower-PC-Case/p/CC-9011063-WW?utm_source=PCPartPicker_79301&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=497986_CORSAIR US Product Catalog Ad&utm_content=Corsair&clickid=2u0WBTx16xyOUtBwUx0Mo3cgUkEW89S9wzw13U0&irgwc=1 CPU: https://www.newegg.com/amd-ryzen-7-3700x/p/N82E16819113567?Item=N82E16819113567&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=AFC-RAN-COM&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ASID=https%3a%2f%2fpcpartpicker.com%2fproduct%2fQKJtt6%2famd-ryzen-7-3700x-36-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000071box&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-8XcgHAHyJOqxaOWZIysrQA GPU: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/87F48d/asus-geforce-rtx-2070-8gb-video-card-rog-strix-rtx2070-o8g-gaming Signed, Snakeblood

How against is everyone towards mining with a water cooled PC. I used to have an AIO and just switched over to a custom loop. I have a 3080 and it can’t be easily replaced.

I want to build a small form factor workstation, I'm buying used parts so there's a wide range of parts I'm willing to use so long as they're cheap enough. This is the "largest" extent of my plan, https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Boredome_________/saved/#view=9NPkJx Threadripper 3970x or better, eatx gigabyte or MSI, Quadro p4000 in a Lian Li O11 dynamic mini. What do you think of this plan? Budget (including currency): 2600 Country: usa Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: autocad, inventor, illustrator, VM, vpn, IPS, systems modelling Other details I have a Dell t5500 tower from which I'm pulling the Quadro p4000

I was watching a PC build in Korean & it had what looked like a chunky 240 rad with inset fans & a built in pump branded as Lian Li. What is this called & is it any good? It looks like an elegant cooling component for crammed or sff builds, I definitely want to look into it.

I've taken apart & rebuilt old Dells many times & have experience with all the below programs on my Dell Precision laptop but after my cpu hit 87 degrees celsius I decided I should build a pc. I want to build a barebones powerful workstation with room to grow. Then I saw on TEC1-12715 DC12V & immediately thought of these Aluminum Water Cooling Block 40x200mm & figured with some fans, heatsinks, thermal paste, & tinkering I could make a soft-line below ambient water loop for the same or lower price than a hardline waterloop kit (curse those expensive fittings). Anyone ever tried this, any advice or recommendations? How do you power the peltier chips? I know a pc psu can supply that much power but I don't know if it can handle the number of chips I'd need to get below ambient or the resistance, I'm fine with running a second psu & analog fan &/or chip controller if that simplifies things. I have a few ideas, this 12V TEC1-12706 DIY Thermoelectric Peltier Cooler cools air & the peltier chips are cooled by fans & an internal heatsink fin array. In theory reversing the polarity would cool the radiators & produce hot air exhaust, I could also use the aforementioned TEC chips, aluminum blocks, heatsinks (like this 100mm (L) x40mm(W) x20mm (H) Heat Sink), case fans, & scrap metal to make something like the DIY Cooler exactly how I want it. Prospective build: Ryzen 9 5950x, ATX, M2 ssd, Quadro P4000, custom case alternatively: threadripper pro 3975x, EATX, Quadro P4000, custom case Budget (including currency): <400 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Inventor, Autocad, Stella Architect, VPN, ISP, Programming, Adobe Illustrator, Podcasting, 4k Video Editing in NCH

I'm seeking recommendations to get a cheap but effective combined flow+temp LCD monitoring tech, for my custom loop, which I've described here. The loop is copper/brass, with a heatkiller IV and Hardware Labs SR-2 480 and D5, to disperse heat from an 18 core CPU being run overclocked. The radiator is good enough that I sjhould be able to run a static water flow, and at most PWM rad fans based on water temp, but even that might not be needed. Once the loop is set up, I'll look at the LCD daily, and then ignore it. I've seen a variety of separate and combined (in-line) monitoring devices, and honestly I'm confused. I know what I'm after and it's pretty simple. But I'm not sure whether it's going to cost £50 or £200, and whether a cheaper model will do or I need something more. Functionality - I'd like a simple standalone LCD that continually displays 3 simultaneous figures: ambient temp, water temp, and flow rate. I don't care if it's 3.5" case fitting or standalone. I also don't care if it's a controller + LCD + sensors, AIO sensor/LCD, or whatever else. That's all I need. (Optional: "nice to have" would be (1) an alarm on water temp/flow rate, (2) water temp -> fan speed PWM output) No need for USB/data connection once set up - I want it not to require software or a USB/data connection on the PC. I don't mind software as a "once off" to configure it, but once set up it should need a PSU connection and nothing else. Sensors - If it doesn't have inbuilt flow or water temp sensors, I'll need suggestions for separate sensors as well. That might make it cheaper as separates or AIO. Quality - Good build quality reputation/reliable, and compatible with brass. Cost - Obviously as cheap as possible "all-in"! It's hard to figure out what to get. Something Aquacomputer? Something Barrow or Bitpower? No idea! Ideas please that will get me what I want without spending more than I need to!

Hi! As the topic says, I'm finalising my first custom loop, and need some suggestions for a few of the components. This is what I have so far: System + requirements: This is a CPU-only loop for a 18 core Intel i9-10980XE mounted on an Asus WS X299 SAGE. The PUS is an EVGA Supernova G2 1000. There are no other high-power consumption comnponents so the PSU should be ample (The G2 range has a good rep for power quality). I do heavy VM and calculation work (similar to non-AVX Prime95) so I need very stable day to day but still want upward of 44x. I can OC cores individually, or in small groups, to between 45~49 x, but overclocking all cores together blows stability past 41x. I'm guessing my main problem is heat. The CPU hits 100 C and disperses ~270 W at 41x on minimum stable voltages. I can get 43x @297 W for a few hours but not stable (Prime95 rounding or BSOD after some hours whatever I tweak). So first off, good cooling. It might need voltage tweaks, but let's see. Custom Loop - already decided: Loop layout - Reservoir > Pump > Temp & flow monitor(s) > Radiator > CPU (> Reservoir). Get all the heat producing items after the CPU and before the radiator, although the benefits are probably minimal. Metals - 100% copper/brass (nickel on brass fittings). Possibly stainless steel at some points and for monitoring devices, but will try to avoid. Radiator - Existing Hardware Labs Black Ice SR-2 480. The SR2 range was a monster when you wanted low restriction, and low push-only fan speeds, but still want top-end heat dispersal. Said in tests to disperse about 350W per 10 C at 1 GPM, at 1300 rpm and with push-only, for a drop of just 0.18 PSI - and close to 550W per 10 C if push-pull or 1800 rpm are used instead. Block - Heatkiller IV Pro Pure Copper Fittings and tube - Barrow compression fittings (all G1/4), and EPDM 10/16 tube (3/8-5/8). Watercool.de's recommendation to go with the Heatkiller. EPDM to avoid all issues with plasticisers, although it's not transparent. Reservoir - Custom built 2 L reservoir (8mm polished cast acrylic). The size means that at 1 GPM coolant spends at least 30 seconds in the reservoir, meaning with good layout, it flows comparatively slowly and bubbles can escape to the top very quickly and easily, and are separated from being drawn into the pump when filling. Case and aesthetics [don't care] - modded and hacked, I love modding and don't care about looks, if it runs like a monster and is reliable. (It's a data crunching + VM workstation, not a game rig.) Custom Loop - help needed: Pump - Laing branded D5 for sure, but no idea if all D5's are the same, or have the accessories I am likely to need. I want a speed control on the pump but it doesn't need tro be feedback driven, I'll set a static speed based on flow rate and temps during testing. Either a simple rotary control on the pump or PWM I guess? What are the pros and cons, given I aim to control cooling via fan speed from the water temp (or static fans), not via pump speed? Pump top - Given the loop is simple and low restriction, and the reservoir design will prevent bubble intake, does the exact top or the fine details of vortex creation actually matter? I don't think so. But I still need help to choose one. Coolant - No idea. Reputation based for sure. My ideal coolant would be uncoloured, cheap in 2-5 L quantities, sold in the UK, very very good rep for running "clean" long term, and ideally able to run a long long time between replacements once sealed. Distilled water plus additives, or suitable premixed fluid? Whose? It shouldn't cost a fortune. The rad design means I want about 2 L in the loop so if it's sold by the 100 ml thats a problem! I want to absolutely minimise deposits, blockages, and surface effects to the other components, over time. I also want a flow+temp LCD but that's separate and more detailed, so I put it in its own question. I'm in the UK but likely to order the block and tubing from watercool.de, to get the exact make of EPDM tube they sell to use with their blocks, so I'm happy to order parts from a mix of European or UK suppliers. I'd really appreciate comments on the component choices before I buy, and suggestions on the components I haven't a clue about! I'd like to order a.s.a.p., so thanks in advance for the help!

Hello fellow PC Enthusiasts! I decided to share my experience with you guys concerning Radiator placement in a Custom Waterloop. Ive been searching a pretty long time now but every1 is just talking about a single Radiator or an AIO, and i havent found any information regarding multiple Radiators inside a "standard" ATX case. Im currently running a 3600X compared with a Vega 64 (LC BIOS) in a single loop, which we all know is a pretty power hungry and hot graphics card. Case: Fractal R6 Watercooling Parts: Phobya DC12-400 Pump Alphacool Radiators EKWB Supremacy Evo CPU Block Aquacomputer Kryographics Vega 64 Waterblock. At first i was running this configuration: 280x40 Radiator intake Front 360x30 Radiator exhaust Top 1x140 Fan exhaust Back Temperatures under full load (CPU+GPU) after 25min: CPU - 78°C GPU Hotspot - 93°C Water - almost 50°C Pump Speed - 1200 RPM Fan Speed Top - 1350 RPM Fan Speed Front - 1000 RPM. I stopped the workload because the Water Temperature reached 50°C. From all ive seen this is the "standard" or most common configuration if you run a dual Radiator setup. Since we all care about Airflow, we seek to have a little positive pressure inside the case so we can minimize dust buildup. In this scenario i was a bit on the negative side regarding pressure. But it was ok. But after seeing those Temperatures i wondered: Why is my Water Temperature increasing that much with 640mm Radiator surface? I talked to a Physician at my University and he told me that the Top Radiator will have almost no impact on cooling because of the front mounted Radiator. Because of the small delta between Water Temperature and the Air Temperature that is coming out of the Front radiator AND going through the Top Radiator, the cooling performance will be significant lower. I then decided to do another Test configuration: 2x 140mm Fan intake Front 1x 140mm Fan intake Bottom 360x30 Radiator exhaust Top 140x30 Radiator exhaust Back Temperatures under full load (CPU+GPU) after 25min: CPU - ~68°C GPU Hotspot - 79°C Water - 42°C Pump Speed - 1200 RPM Fan Speed Top - 1300 RPM Fan Speed Exhaust - 900 RPM. Air pressure inside the case is stabilized. With a little smoke test i could not detect any gaps sucking Air inside the case. But still - im not very pleased with those numbers. I now ordered another 360x30 Radiator and will try following: 2x 140mm Fan intake Bottom 1x 140x30 exhaust Back 1x 360x30 exhaust Top 1x 360x30 exhaust Front I know that i will be highly on the negative side regarding Case pressure, but its a sacrifice im willing to take to lower my Component temperatures especially the GPU Temperature. I will update this thread once the parts have arrived and i installed them. For now i just wanted to share my experience so far, and tell you that a front mounted radiator is not always the best way to go if you run multiple Radiators inside your case. I will update this thread with new numbers once i get the parts. Edit: spelling.

Hello! I have build my first ever waterloop and I am quite happy with it so far. But I reallised a flaw with my draining system. As you can see from the pictures I have my drain Port on the lowest Point in my System, on the Radiator. The Order is as following: -Pump -GPU -Radiator (back to Pump) But I can't fully drain my System like that. Alot of Water stays in the Reservoir and the GPU Block. My Question now is: Can I change the order to -Pump -Radiator -GPU (back to Pump) ? This would mean that I can completely drain my system down to the last drop. Is it "allowed" to do it in this order? Or are there things I have to concider? Thanks!

Greetings fellow builders! I just completet my very very first waterloop! Hurray! First of, I had no leaks and I am still trying to bleed my Radiator. I am now looking at some temps of my Zotac GTX 1070 Amp Edition and I don't know wheter they are normal or not. For my Loop: Alphacool X-Flow 480mm UT60 Thermaltake Riing Fans running at ~900 rpm. Alphacool D5 Pump with 250mm Reservoir (250mm Reservoir Pummp combo) Alphacool GTX 1080 M02 Water Block YES I do NOT have a CPUI waterblock in there yet,, but thats only because I didnt have the money to buy one quite yet. I have my birthday in about a week (5.2.) And I will be getting one then. Now for the temps. I don't know if my system is fully bled yet, (Which is isn't, even I know that) While writing this I had Heaven Benchmark running in the background at ultra settings 3440x1440p and the temps now are: 43 Degrees Celcius. In Idle on the Desktop I'm getting around 34 Degrees. Are those normal temps? I expected a little lower(?) At least about 26 or so on the desktop witht he GPU at idle...? Also I felt the water by sticking my finger into my reservoir (Yes I shouldnt do that) and it feels cold. Shouldnt the water be at least about hand warm if the GPU is sitting at 43 Degrees? I mean as much as I understand it the water in the loop will be about the same temp (+- 1 Degree) after a while, right? Well thats that. Now for my 2nd Question My Radiator still has some air in the top, I can clearly hear it splashing in there. How do I get it out? I can't really tip my PC because its bolted to the wall (yeah, looks epic though). Would it be safe to just open the top port and fill some water in there? It cant really drop on any components there (About 30cm to the mainboard, gpu, etc) Or will the water just come flying out like a fountain If I unscrew this? Pew, alot of text for 2 small simple questions... Sorry 'bout that. Anyways, I hope someone with more experience than me (everyone) can help me! Cheers!

Hello friends, This is my first wtaerloop and I just have a few questions, I will list specs at the end. 1) What is your best tecnique to bend 12mm OD PETG bitspower tubing? (I have a monssoon metal angle kit). 2) Approximately what temperature and how long should I use my heat gun to bend the 10mm OD petg tubing. (I dont want those white frost marks. 3) Which is the better way to get the best temps. Cool Water to gpu to cpu and back to radiator? or CPU to GPU and back to Rsd. 4) I hear keeping the ball drain valve at the lowest point in the loop is the best way to easily drain the loops. Whee is the best location for a drain value?

Is it possible to use copper pipe for a custom water cooling loop. I know how to work with copper piping because I took plumbing in school

I'm currently sitting in my living room trying to finish up my computer, I've connected the motherboard, installed my waterblock, my ram, two 480 rads, 8 4-pinned fans, and Now I'm hard stuck. If anyone has experience with costume loops, building a computer or a d5 pump I'd very much appreciate it if you would add me on my skype (william_hertz). My intention is to use my webcam to show you as I'm building and I can hopefully get the answers that I really need. Thanks for your time.

Anyone running a custom water cooling loop in the InWin303?? What are the temps??

Cheap CPU Custom Water Cooling Solution If an article of similar content, or better, already exist, please don't be quick to dismiss mine, as you might pick something up that other articles don't have. Now, let's proceed. As I have clearly, and boldly, stated on the title, this is a CHEAP CPU CUSTOM WATER COOLING SOLUTION! There are always better materials, appearance, quality, etc. But mine is personally tested and proven to last at least 2 years of NO maintenance ( water change ) and even have your computer run 24/7 for a number of days and not worry about anything. I know because I almost never turn off my PC. Now, why would you work hard to make a custom loop when AIOs exist? Simple. THEY ARE MUCH MORE COOLER AND BADASS! Aesthetically speaking. Plus, AIOs are just that. you cannot expand to including your GPU or RAMs or add more radiators. So overall, its simply better in every aspect. Plus, its really rewarding to see what you can build with your own two hands, or one. Or none... They dont show off AIOs in conventions now do they..? But enough mocking AIOs because I currently am using one. Only because I'm still working on my custom loop plan. And also waiting on that sexy beast 1080ti Poseidon, cuz AuraSYNC... SORRY BUT YOU'RE WRONG!! And I will prove it! Now, here are the links for CHEAP, yet efficient. From my personal point of view, this will be a good practice for those who seek to get into water cooled PCs. CPU Water Block $19.79 Reservoir $6.38 Pump $21.99 Radiator $26.98 Soft Tubing $1.15/ft. where I'll be recommending you get at least 3 feet. Anti Algae Silver Kill Coil $5.25 So, right now we're looking at $83.84. Being an overall computer junkie like me, I would assume you'll have zip ties kept somewhere so you shouldn't have to buy any anymore. If not, SHAME ON YOU! JK. For real tho, go run to Walmart or a dollar store. While you're at it, get some distilled water too. We're almost done. Few things that are missing are the screws for the rad which you can always request from the seller. And also the fan and fan controller. Now with a 240mm radiator, I would recommend getting 4 fans to get a push pull for the radiator setup. That's if you can. You might have a small case which will only allow you two fans. But that's OK because you can always have more on the other parts of your computer which will help the overall airflow inside your PC. Fan controller, now, here's a tricky one. I will give you 3 options: 5 Channel 5.25" Bay Fan Controller $18.79 which you'll sum up to $103.78 + shipping. 4 Channel 3.5" Bay Fan Controller $7.53 which will sum you up to $91.37 + shipping. or this, Stick-On 8 Channel 3 gear Fan Controller $1.89 which will then sum you up to $85.73 + shipping. I would personally go with the 1st option. or the NZXT Sentry Mix 2 ( REFURBISHED ) if you can find a cheaper, used one, even better. Its what I had on my 1st water cooled PC along with the first 5 items I have listed above. For this particular item, a used one should be sufficient. I'm pretty sure I had a used one too. I don't remember exactly. The 1st one, 5 channel should be enough. 1 slot for the pump and up to 4 slots for the radiator fans. The 2nd item is less than half the 1st item's price. But mind the 3.5" Bay that's where the floppy disks used to be ( RIP ). Unless you have it, DO NOT buy this. As for the last one, I only added it because its dirt cheap. I mean, 2 bucks. You can go to the beach with a metal detector and collect that much coin along the coast. But the difficult thing about it is if you stick it inside, you'll have to open the case when you need to adjust the speed. And if you stick it on the outside surface of your case, its, ugly! Then again, this is CHEAP CPU CUSTOM WATER COOLING SOLUTION, so I had to put it. But because I refuse to make ugly stuff, I beg you to please use the 1st or 2nd option! As for the FANS, I will not be recommending anything because I feel like fans are for fans. What kind of fan/s are you a fan of? Simple? Cheap? Low Noise? Performance? LED? RGB? What about your budget? $5/fan should be enough. Yes you can go with a better quality one, but then again, for how long will it be good? How will the price fluctuate as they make better ones? Maybe today you'll stick to a 1-color LED fan. Next few months you'll have enough for RGB fans and add strips! I had personally went with a cheap blue LED fan setup. After having it for 2 years, only 1 fan had died. CLICK HERE for an example of how cheap you can go with fans. That is a $4.98 USD LED fan. This is what I used tho: CLICK HERE! A little more expensive but because it came from the same vendor as some of the above items, I was able to ask for discount. Also, I bought 2 sets for 2 PCs. which helped with the negotiation. To conclude, I would pick a cheap cheap DIY custom water cooling loop over AIOs. Its fun to build. Bragging rights for knowing and having the experience. Plus, you can little by little add into it. Maybe next month you'll want to add your GPU into the loop. Then your RAMS! Or not because they've gone RGB. And RGB is sooo cool. Oh add a flow meter! Thermometer. Add another radiator. Upgrade to RGB CPU water block. Upgrade to compression fitting because they look much cooler. Comments, questions, praises, hate, whatever it is you wanna say, please reply below! Thank you for reading!

Does anyone know about an electric stopcock with 1/4 fittings for a water cooling loop? I want to make a board controlled automated loop and i would like to have a backup pump system in case the primary one fails, but i dont seem to find any decent electric stopcock that wont mess up my cooling liquid, looks sorta nice and has 1/4 fittings, anyone can help? i would really appreciate it!

I am planning on running a loop with 3 blocks, and 4 radiators, 3 360 rads and 1 480 rad, is a single Performance Pcs Modded D5 Uber 665 enough for a loop like that?

AKA Project Arkham. Following Build Plan Thread Recommendations: 1) I can spend about 250$-350$ per month. I live in Poland. 2) I want powerful gaming rig that might be used for video editing in the future. Doom, Batman Arkham, that kind of stuff. 3) One monitor. Big one. 4) I have new keyboard, recently bought, and Win10, bought as well. 5) I'm upgrading because my current rig is getting old: 8gb DDR3, AMD Phenom II X4 965. I bought two Asus' Geforce GTX 1060 Expedition 6gb a while ago (before that I had Gigabyte GeForce GTX 650 1gb)> I'm planning to play with crypto mining in the future, so those two will have some more powerful company. I call it Project Arkham because I bought Thermaltake Core P5 Green Edition (love form the first sight) and I'm planning to do liquid cooling with purple colour and vinyl sticker with The Joker on plexi. What I have for now: - Thermaltake Toughpower 1000W - G.SKILL 16GB 3200MHz Ripjaws V Black CL16 (2x8GB) x2 - Patriot 256GB SSD Spark What I want: - Asus ROG Zenith Extreme - Threadripper gen 1 - two 1TB SSDs - liquid cooling loop - MAAAAAAAAAAYYBEEEEEE some graphics and RAM OC What dou You think of this build, good tech people around the world? I want it mostly plug&play touch&go. Software tinkering makes me bored, I like to tinker with hardware though.

Working on parts keeping it under 120$. all eBay. no Ek or stuff like that, I want performance, not shiny and brag rights, just something to get at 5.4Ghz, and CHEAP! as I know I'm fully capable, but don't have cooling power with this h100i. 5.3Ghz is rarely stable now with this ageing cooler. latest test shows 5.1ghz all core and 5.0ghz cache is possible now. with a few tweaks. I know much about galvanized what ever it's called. 2x 360mm I need just under 2in thicc-ness. $49 stealth coolers by a nice brand. 100$ total or less if by all means yes. nothing Chinese. Aluminum blocks I can't find well enough, does copper interfere with it in this case? $17 clear for sure. again pls answer the question. just some normal bendy tubes. $5 clear. fittings help me, with this pls. 1/2 or 1/4. help me with that. aluminum too. not taking a dumb risk with anything else. need 6. $10 coolants? any good brands? $10 I have plenty of fans, to many tbh. Thanks.

Hey all, Just wanted to share my almost finished build. I live in an apartment with my girlfriend who has a crafting station already. This limits my space for a gaming setup so I went with a small case for factor. I decided to go with the corsair air 240. Below are parts of my build: Case: air240 Cpu:i77700k delidded with rockit88 kit applied conductonaut ti cpu die Also, replaced intels ihs with rockit's beautiful copper ihs. Temps stayed dropped hard after installation. Gpu: 1080 ti founders edition Ram: 16gb (8 x 2) corsair vengance lpx 3000mhz cl15 Ssd: Samsung evo 960 1tb M.2: Samsung evo 960 250gb nvme m.2 Mobo: asrock z270m extreme4 Psu:SeaSonic Electronics PRIME Titanium 650W 80 Plus Titanium Modular Power Supply Fans: 3x corsair ml120 white Custom Waterloop Gpu: ek full cover waterblock Cpu: ek supremacy evo Radiators: 240mm ultra stealth black nemesis white radiator & 120mm ultra stealth black nemesis white radiator Reservoir: Alphacool: 150mm eisenbacher reservoir Pump: ek d5 pump Tubing: thermaltake petg (the best tubing known to man. So easy to work with) Fittings: eK white hardline fittings Fluid: cl1000 opaque white Peripherals not shown in pictures: Mouse: corsair m65 pro Mousepad: corsair mm800 rgb Keyboard: corsair k70 rgb rapidfire Headset: corsair void pro Monitor: acer predator x34P overclocked 120hz (just bought this baby today ) Back of case tubing: ek zmt matte black soft line tubing with ek soft line fittings and horsepower spout Custom cable sleeving from mainframe customs *custom wires ti exact length with custom sleeving. Also added a custom side panel made of cle as r acrylic with 1/2" standoffs (painted copper) I think I got everything lol! This build was certainly a challenge. My first pump alphacools vpp755 d5 pump was a dud and delayed build by a week. So picked up eks pump and it is working wonderfully. Another challenge was working in such a small case. Truly a challenge. From being able to find the parts that actually fit in the case, to running soft tubing in back without kinks in the back, to making sure the build was nice, neat, and clean looking. That was my main goal. I wanted a clean looking build like when you get all dressed up for a formal dinner party in your "suit and tie", hence the name of this build "suit and tie" along with that I tried to stay with the black and white theme. But then i realized that my blocks were copper so i wanted to incorporate copper copper into the color scheme. I will be adding more copper to this build by painting white fittings copper, and putting copper painted accents when I do the white mobo tray which will take up the entire back side of the case. This build is far from over as I want to clean it up a bit by adding more white acrylic paneling to the top and, as previously mentioned to the backside of the case as a mobo tray. I also spray painted the metal grates copper to incorporate more copper into the color scheme. Please let me know what you think. All critisicim is welcome as I am constantly upgrading/updating/modding this build. In my eyes this build will never be complete :))

So this whole fitting and tube size thing is confusing to me, if i do match the sizes, does it also matter what type of reservoir i go for? Does it only take specific sizes? This is the res i want. XSPC X4 Photon 270 Reservoir/Pump Combo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCSWHW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5vFPAbGPYZESS

Hey guys, I am planning on making a custom loop for my PC soon, and I was planning to go with the Fractal Design Define S. Recently however, I found the anidees Ai-Crystal, which really caught my eye and I definitely would choose that over the Define S. However, I don't know if there is support for a pump and reservoir anywhere. If anyone knows, or if they have built a loop in that case, please tell me. Thanks! Arush anidees Ai Crystal Linus's Video

Hello fellow pc geeks, i was thinking, (oh god its already going wrong here). Cpu blocks are quite expensive, so how about a prefilled cooler and put a bigger rad on it? What do you guys thing?

Hey guys I wanted to have a watercooled rig for a long time now, and now I finally started building one! This is my first buildlog ever, in which I wanted to share my experiences with you, because this is an awesome forum with even more awesome people. As I really love custom loops, I wanted to watercool my whole rig at once, so I went for a new case. My old one was the NZXT Phantom which really had plenty of room to put stuff in, but it was older and there weren’t that many rad-slots so I decided to get the Corsair Obsidian 900D, which is pretty much as big as it can get. I’m really an esthetics-guy so the only choice for the reservoir was a tube-res. I chose the Phobya Balancer 250mm for, which I wanted to fill up with green liquid. Hardware: CPU: Intel 3770K Mainboard: Asus Sabertooth Z77 RAM: Corsair Dominator 8GB (2x4) GPU: Nvidia GTX 780 PSU: Corsair AX860i SSD: Samsung 840 pro 128GB HDD: 2x 1TB WD Cabiar Black in RAID0 I had to take the heatsink off the RAM, due to its ugly red color which would have just completely destroyed the green colorscheme. They really don’t look that bad without the heatsink, they’re just completely black. Watercooling-Hardware: CPU-block: Swiftech Apogee HD 4-port GPU-block: Watercool Heatkiller GPU-X GTX780 “hole-edition” Pump: Alphacool VPP655 Reservoir: Phobya Balancer 250mm Rads: 2x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 480mm Fans: 8x Silverstone AP121 – green 120mm Case: Corsair Obsidian 900D Tubing: Masterkleer PVC 3/8’’ Fittings: Koolance G1/4 3/8’’ black For the looks, I bought a GPU-backplate and the really sharp looking individually sleeved PSU-cables from Corsair. Makeup: GPU-backplate: Watercool Heatkiller GPU backplate GTX 7X0 PSU-cables: Professional individually sleeved DC cable kit Type3 Liquid: Mayhems Pastel – mint green And now what you actually want to see Pictures: I had to take out the HD-bays in the bottom to fit my rad and the pump down there. I was really impressed when the custom sleeved cables came in from Corsair. They look so beautiful and the green really seems to glow I mounted the Phobya Balancer to the HD-cages. This way I didn't had to drill holes myself, I was able to screw in between the rails for the hd-bays. The Silverstone AP's just look so good at night. I took of the "side-panel" that covered the bottom part of the 900D for better airflow. If it would still be there, you wouldn't be able to see much of the glow at all. When mounting the CPU-block I accidentally managed to bend one of the MB-pins :unsure: But as lucky as I am, I was able to bend it back successfully without damaging it. But for a moment I was really scared The cables go perfectly with the black background from the 900D Please just ignore the red SATA cable I'll have to change it but at the moment, I had no other laying around. The filling actually went smoother than I thought it would. I was frightened to actually fill the loop up, but it turned out to be the easiest part of the whole project The bleeding takes longer than I thought. I got the machine running now for about 2 weeks and when I turn it off, sometimes I still see small bubbles around some fittings. Thats about how far I am at the moment. I'm still waiting for the LED-strips (green) to be delivered. I'll take some glamour-shots when I've really finished everything, but I'm interested in what you think about my rig and I'm looking forward to reading your comments. :lol: Thanks for reading