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Showing results for tags 'volt'.
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Hi, (Posted this in Motherboards, but this is a better place it think) Came here in the hope to find some sort of help, because i can't seem to find the issue i'm currently having with my set-up. Lately i'm having an issue on the 3.3V line on the motherboard. Software is telling me, in idle it's giving about 3.040V. But sometimes it goes down to 2.9V or even 2.8V which causes the system to freeze. I can use my mouse, but everything else is frozen. At first i thought is was the PSU getting faulty, but after replacing it, the issue remained. I've reset the BIOS to factory settings and that seems to fix it; 3.184V after a few reboots. But after a while, back to the issue i had. Using a Voltmeter, i got 3.33V on the connector. Could this be something on the motherboard? Other small issue i'm having: Copying large file from M.2 to M.2 causes the system file explorer to crash. Setup: Asus WS 390 Pro i9 9900K Corsair 64GB (4x 16GB) 3600Mhz Samsung Evo 970 Pro NVMe 1TB Samsung EVO 970 Pro NVMe 2TB Nvidia RTX 3080 FE 10GB Corsair HX850 If anyone has an idea, plz let me know
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my rtx 3050 laptop from acer nitro 5.... its rated at 75 watts but suddenly from today it srarted running ar 22 watts or 20 watts and gpu clock is stuck to 210mhz and memory clock is stuck to 840mhz and is not moving what so ever.... and my gpu is getting 99% utilization but is wayyyyy slower in performance and its temperature is around 67°C and cpu is very normal and running fine..... this issue is getting fixed by reinstalling graphics driver or by disabling discrete gpu from device manager and re-enabling it. But the probelm stays the same after consecutive cold or warm booting no matter what booting... it again becomes same and gpu power gets stuck at 22watts and core voltage gets stuck at 0.6 volts and again i have to disable enable thingy and then it works for that session.... please give a solution for the fix -
Good Afternoon Sorry for asking this short question. Is this still fine if my 3VCC is below 3.300 V? Thank you.
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Hi, i am using HP z800 with power supply of "delta electronics dps-1050db a". i have few questions and issues, please help me to figure out. I am living in Pakistan and having electricity breakout issues, so i install a 1000VA UPS with 180AMP battery and it supplies to my PC (HP Z800) and 2 ceiling fans and 6 ceiling lights (6 watts each). i noticed, when the electricity breakout happens, UPS tripped down with a beep and break it's supply too. and when i restart the UPS, it gives supply by sourcing of installed battery and run smoothly on battery till the main electricity comes back. I notices one more thing, when i manually switch of the main breaker, the UPS convert itself to battery mode smoothly and never cutoff it's connection, it's only happened when electricity breakout through main power grid. First question is why it's happening there? Second, i heard from someone that the computer supply (HP z800) is taking too load about 1250watts, then how it run on UPS battery when i direct connect it ( without fans and ceiling lights ) even during electric breakout.? and i read on UPS screen, it's taking only 178W during computer running. Thanks in Advance -
Hey guys so i just finished my first oc on my new 10900k, and was wondering if my results is ok 5.2ghz all cores, at 1.36 volt. ring ratio at 46. LLC 6. Vccio & Vccsa at 1.2 volt. I've run realbench 2.56 for 2 hours, and my temp never goes over 85c
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Specs: CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Gaming x Trio Mobo: Asus Rog strix B450-F Gaming RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200Mhz CL16 Hello! So I started to overclock a Bit, starting with my RAM. Its 3200mhz CL16 rated. Putting it on 1.36V I was able to oc it to 3600mhz at 16-18-18-18-36 stable. Well I Had an Error in Prime95 after 2 hours so something isn't 100% right but Im Not Sure exactly If its the RAM. Then I Took a Look at my CPU. I noticed when I leave it all on Auto and have Things precision Boost Overdrive or the Core Performance Boost active I boosts the 3600 to about 4.05 GHz with it fluxuation around which I think is normal with These Options right? In idle it then jumps around Like normal to save Power etc. The Thing is on Auto is pushed the CPU vcore to 1.4 under load, peeking at about 1.45V-1.47V. That is too mich right? Maybe should I deactivate Things Like LLC or there is another setting with 4 different Levels on Auto I could Set to for example "Level 1". And on top of that another question. If I overclock my CPU for example on 4.1 GHz. Now its Always stable on this frequency. How much worse is the Power consumption then roughly because lets say I leave my PC for a couple of hours is it a Lot of Power loss having the pc doing nothing but still at example 4.1Ghz (is there maybe an Option to sett an oc but in idle the CPU still clocks down?) Thank so much If you read all this. I have lots of questions but lets Not make this too long. Glizzymane -
Im running a 6800k at 4.3ghz on 1.390 volt, temps are good, never over 70. but i wanna clock it Harder so was wondering if anyone has any experience running 6800k on 1.450 volt or higher?
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So I overclocked my 1600x to 3,9ghz and set the cpu volt to 1.4V. For some reason it would boot up so I put it to auto in the BIOS. For some reason though it automatically put it to 1.525 Volts (which is guess a bit too much) and otherwise it won't boot up. Can somebody explain to me why
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So I want to power some of my fans and I was just wondering since voltAmp=watt if 2 volts1amp is the same thing as 2amp1volt becuase they both equal 2 Watts Thanks -
Alright, so I've been actively trying to get this RX 480 to work properly for a week now without much luck, it would have probably taken a lot less time for someone more experienced than me but I am quite the noob at this kind of stuff. Anyway, I think I finally found the problem, but I don't know how to fix it. Basically the problems seems that, no matter what I do in Wattman in regards to clock speeds or voltages, the voltage seems to be stuck at exactly 1.0000 (As measured by GPU-Z). And no, it's not the average or anything like that. I downloaded MSI Afterburner and managed to change the voltage down to 0.9 or up to 1.1 volts, but once again, the voltage is static. Another really weird thing I noticed is that if I change the memory clock whatsoever, like an increase of 5 MHz (2000-2005), the voltage instantly increases to 1.1750 and stays there, once again static. All of the changes I do in Wattman regarding clock speeds work perfectly, but for some reason not the voltages. Does anyone know what the solution could be? Also can anyone answer if voltages are meant to be dynamic like I thought? I wanted to avoid RMA since I'm pretty sure most RMA's are problems not caused by the card itself anyways. I have uninstalled and formatted my drive several times aswell as installed the latest drivers/crimson software. Many thanks for any answers
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I have a Gigabyte 1060 6GB that has a not soo good stock cooler for overclocking so i tryed undervolting. After some tuning i got this: i got about 10-15% lower power and a lower clock from 2060 MHz to 2012 MHz, but also voltage was 1050 mV, now 975 mV. Post your results!
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Hello, (My Englisch is bad, because i'm a german pupil) I bought a Asus Z87-A Motherboard with a I7 4770k CPU. The Case is a Sharkoon Am5 Window. My Cpu is cooled by an Be Quiet bk 009 cooler. My Question is, which Volt should configure with 4.5 Ghz? My Ram is 16gb 1333mhz and with 1.600 Volt. If I select 4.5 Ghz with 1.300 Volt the System crashes and I don't want to go over 1.330 Volt because much people said, that i need a Watercooling System. Which Volt and clock is good for my cpu or what should i test? I dont want to go under 4.2Ghz and Over 4.6Ghz
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So I have some Motherboard mainboard 4 pin Fan Header questions. The motherboard I'm using is the MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX LGA1151 Motherboard and the fans I'll be suing are the Corsair ML140 97 CFM 140 mm Fans which I'll be connecting 2 of to 1 mainboard 4-pin fan header via the https://noctua.at/en/na-syc1 NA-SYC1 Y-Cable. The fans are between 10.8V - 13.2V. I know I should not overload the main board, which I checked the manual and says that for PWM mode (I'll be using) for the mainboard at being a constant +12V.... so I'm wondering, do the mainboard fan headers support more then 1 fan? If they do, because the fans are capable of running above the +12V (I'm assuming) limit, does that mean it'll fry my mainboard fan header or does it simply mean the fans will be stopped at 12V power consumption, like they can't consume more then? OR, might that not even be a concern as I might be able to limit the max volts the fans can run to in the bios on the motherboard for PWM?
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Finally upgraded my 2700 to a 3800x. And what a improvement in games. On average about 10-15fps more ? only concern is the temps whilst using a Corsair h100i platinum. Getting about 70 whilst gaming and around 81 when stress testing. Although it's well under the recommended max of 95 I'd feel happy if it was around 70 on a stress test as well. Granted I'm not gonna be doing anything that's gonna max my CPU out 100% 24/7 but you gotta account for a bit of dust build up in rads etc. Only clean my pc once every 12-18months (normally when I buy something new to go in it)
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Today, I was playing Skyrim for lke 3 hours straight and my pc just powered off itself and restarted (No shutdown), i checked everything and I guess something is wrong with my PSU. I have attached my HWMonitor Screenshots which I cannot understand. Can you guys plz check it for me... The screenshots are when PC was totally idle, not under any load. PSU : Mercury HX 550W
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Hi, I currently own a Straight Power 11 Platinum 750W and I’m willing to upgrade to a RTX 3080. The 3080 need 320W but the PSU can only supply 288W on its strongest Rail. Is there a way to utilize more than one rail ? PSU 12v rails +12V1 (A) 20 +12V2 (A) 20 +12V3 (A) 24 +12V4 (A) 24 If my understanding is wrong, feel free and correct me!! Thanks
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After having to get a new motherboard and AIO I decided I would try my hand at over clocking again. Running a 6700K on an MSI Z270 M7 board with a H100i v2. Its a long story why I am running a 6700K on a Z270 board. Here is my Issue Cpu - Z is not showing the core voltage that I set in the UEFI BIOS. its show almost too low to be stable. Highest stable I have gotten XMP on 3200mhz Corsair 16 X 2 kit Multiplier = 46 Bclk = 102 Core Voltage 1.4 (I Know this is high) Power management feature is off <- don't remember the exact name This all adds out to be 4693 MHZ almost 4.7ghz OC @ ~80c running real bench stress test for 15mins. The Odd thing is CPUZ is showing 1.168V that is a big difference from 1.4v. I know the voltage is going up when i increase it in the Bios. As I can see temps go up and more stability.
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Hi so I have the CCTV housing in the picture below and there is the heater board thingy and I just need to know how much power this little board will give out to the camera, I dont know what model board this is its just a cheap generic "Computar" board. Thanks. Alex
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my build consists of CPUIntel Core i5-4690 Processor Motherboardmsi z97 gaming 3 RAM 8gb GPUASUS Strix GeForce GTX 960 Storage1 tb hard drive (toshiba Coolingstock I don't need brand or power supplies in general names just watt.
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how high can i OC a 5960X on 1.2V how high can i OC my 5960X with 100% on thermaltake water 3.0 extreme how much watt would the ram take if i OC 8X8GB g.skill ripjaws 4 series to 2400MHz
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Hello All, I have an Ultra X3 PSU 1600 Watt's. I just purchased a ASUS Maximus VII HERO. On the motherboard connector or the 24 pin connector to power the motherboard there is a pin that in the manual says it needs -5 volts. My PSU connector has this pin as the only blank pin. I checked my other motherboard that this PSU was connected to and this pin is not used and is also blank on the board itself. The connector fits just fine. Currently I do not have a CPU cooler or SSD's since they are in the mail so I am unable to test the motherboard functionality. I would like to know if this -5 volts is used for anything, is it required, and am I stuck buying a new PSU? Thanks for any help! Jeff
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Hi guys, i was wondering if doing a bios hack on an ASUS GTX780 air cooled (oc as for now max 75°C at 1170Mhz) was worth the risk, and what's the max safe voltage for everytime usage... Thanks, EMENCII
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Sometimes when I make build list in pcpartpicker it says my ram voltage is ofer the haswell refresh limit basically it says the limit is 1.5v but if the ram say runs at 1.65v should I be worried Pls help MRE
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Ok i couldn't think of a proper title so that's the closest i can think of. Basically my question revolves around the fact that the Asus PB278Q i purchased a week ago has finally arrive and annoyingly came with the wrong type of power cord. So instead of getting a cord that plugs into an Australian socket, it looks like it plugs into a Japanese or US power socket. I've contacted the retail store i bought it from to ask for them to send me a cable that it should've come with but i'm unsure if having the right cable would make the monitor function correctly. Reason being, this monitor originally came with a Japanese or US power cable and so i think this specific monitor i received today was perhaps designed to work on the voltage/amperages used in those respective countries? Not sure though i really hope not, it's going to be a hassle to send it back to get it replaced and then wait another week or so to get here... Thing is that since this monitor has the same model name regardless of country it perhaps might have it's own internal transformer to convert the input voltage/current to the one it needs? Then again unless there exists transformers that can adjust themselves to convert multiple types of input voltages/currents then i don't think it would work...hmmm.... Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.
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rather than recycle old hybrid electric and EV batteries, which can be quite costly, GM and ABB have modeled a prototype for a house/ small building UPS. This allows the batteries that have not quite reached the end of their life to be used to reduce cost of recycling and lower the wasted material produced when recycled as well as increase the usable life of the battery. this would have the benefit of standard UPSs ie. smooth power, surge protection and most importantly protection from outages. the capacity of the UPS is around 25kWh and the average american home in the summer uses around 30kWh per day (REF) making it a pretty effective solution for power outages. another possible use was for these UPSs to be shipped into a disaster area (it is mounted on a metal forklift base plate) to power lights and rescue equipment to more effectively utilize a generator and decrease the overall time for it to be running. it could also be used in place of a generator if your need is not very long (ex. a parade that goes into the night) or for indoor uses. no word on pricing is mentioned in the article, most likely due to it being a prototype. the only question I have is when can GE send me one. http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/155589-gm-turns-your-old-chevy-volt-battery-into-a-whole-house-ups?utm_source=rss
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