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  • GhostWindGamer's Final Ranting Place
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  • Nvidia VS AMD: AMD's Advantage
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  • I need some help
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  • Failures of Ubuntu: An Enthusiast's and Programmer's Perspective
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  • I Need To Build Budget Gaming Pc
  • My Tech World and Reviews
  • I have my list of parts to do a PC. How do you rank it?
  • The ULTIMATE Watch_Dogs Optimisation
  • LukaP's Mac G5 CaseMod
  • Its not a blog just dont know how to post
  • I need Evolve Key please message me if you have one
  • tacodemauro's Blog
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  • Sho's Blog
  • a day in the life of a student
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  • Banana Milk's Blog
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  • i need help with steam
  • Chronicles of the LHS Computer Club
  • R_Kaplan23's Blog
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  • •[]•-PCMC ℂaℒℒ-ℊIrℒs Ѻ7Ѻ578IѺIѺ4 _=_ Ѻ976775824Ѻ Baner-PiMpri EscOrts Service-Hinjewadi, Dehu rOad Call Girls
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  • panozy's Blog
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  • Things Nowak Says
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  • DxD~'s Blog
  • Anthony's Apartment
  • U can't take my Sweg
  • eestimees50000's Blog
  • Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition w/ 300 W power supply?
  • I blogged
  • first pc build
  • shadakak's Blog
  • SSD and hard drive config?
  • Smokey Attempts: PC On The Wall (Drawer)
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  • Smokey's Chronicles
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  • reRoast
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  • zenithar's Blog
  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
  • Brother PC Build
  • Swndlr's CSGO Skin Showroom
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  • jmad2011's Blog
  • Child's Play
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  • buum's Blog
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  • Upgrade build
  • Kendo's Blog
  • adzzkasper101's Blog
  • Kavala Checkpoint
  • Tower Builds
  • is amd still good for editing
  • † Tech Tips Christian Fellowship †
  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
  • My PC Upgrade Blog
  • zeldafan19's Blog
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  • SSL's Blog
  • knkritpillw's Blog
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  • HiddenTLR's Blog
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  • qwertywarrior's Blogimm not allowed on offtopic so im gonna post here
  • MustafaNL's Blog
  • Cool idea for new office/super fun time
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  • help me remember
  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
  • murz's blog
  • Nvidia GTX 660 ti wanted
  • Sarbartha's Blog
  • The Mechanical Experience
  • YeahLOLNo's Casual N00b Blog
  • Le boring life of Zach
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  • Slim 24 Pro India
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  • Power Supply
  • orangemonster's gaming rig
  • need help GPU not working!
  • which GPU?
  • Speedierbug's Blog
  • Building My First Gaming PC
  • BIG BIG GIVEAWAY
  • jitflexx's Blog
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  • The Great Vessel Giveaway
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  • giveaway
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  • Big Giveaway :D
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  • Big Giveaway :-))))))
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  • Big giveaway!
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  • KimSH's Blog
  • big giveaway
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  • Best Computer Cases under, $80
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  • my mice issues
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  • Editing program For gtx 900 series
  • Ctrl's Blog
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  • Gaming PC need it at ~$650-700
  • David Jones
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  • the ongoing build battle
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  • High Performance Computing For Dummies
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  • Procesador
  • Fx 6300 With gtx 960 or r9 280x is best
  • ThatGuyWhoTwirlsHisPen's Blog
  • Moving to the PC Master Race
  • Tf2 spycrab raffle
  • f5alcon's Blog
  • Need Help With GPU Choice
  • What should I buy for video editing?
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  • CoolaxGaming's LTT life
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  • Bazinga's Pc?
  • My $1000 Gaming Pc Build
  • A new way to watercool a pc? And an hybrid solution!
  • please help me
  • Can this pc run gta 5 at 60fps
  • Neater123's Blog
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  • Project Zoe
  • Medieval kingpin
  • Vinski's Blog
  • 775 Monster
  • My life as 1 of 2 PC builders in the family
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  • Izaibo's Blog
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  • First Water Cooling Build
  • Cryless' Blog
  • realtek decide to block 7.1 software playback
  • My Bookmarks
  • Sgt.Puggsly's Blog
  • Pepijnn2's Blog
  • Used GTX 970 vs GTX 980, Which should I get?
  • Suemael's Blog
  • My first gaming PC
  • zodiac
  • Where to Buy Asus NX90?
  • Building a 600€ gaming PC
  • HanselPutra370's Blog
  • Falx II: The AMD rig that could.
  • Falx IV: The Next Generation.
  • Phoenix: The bundle of suprises.
  • Dis is confusing
  • TheNinjaElite's Blog
  • GameCast News Weekly
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  • Can my PSU handle this build? (Especially my GPU)
  • PepeSilvia's 1st Build research
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  • razer product problem
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  • Darth Morbis (Build and Showcase)
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  • Dispelling some R9 300 series confusion
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  • The Bleeding Edge
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  • Pc Blog
  • Raid Zero Danger?
  • WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR
  • A wee bit if help needed
  • Can hear but when I talk into mic my friends can hear me with the SS 9h
  • Jlryan's Blog
  • +Core ? vs Faster Core ?
  • Harryoclegg484's Blog
  • JOEJOE20's Blog
  • Tommy-b-10's Server Build
  • Lowering the voltage
  • Cockpit Creation
  • Needing a good laptop for school under about 1000 euros or under
  • Taylor borie's Blog
  • is this pc good
  • Harry Sidhu's Blog
  • Brakes on Driverless Cars
  • Rohanm's Blog
  • Recommendations for water cooling
  • Herping And Derping With Zexen
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  • Elllie's Pooter blog with some sparkles and custard
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  • Alex's Tech Life
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  • Are these parts decent with each other?
  • killerson69's Blog
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  • enrico2001's Blog
  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
  • What is the differance between a 128 bit and a 256 bit graphics card?
  • *NEED HELP* NEW GAMING RIG 2015
  • Calvin10112's Blog
  • Fx 9590 Cooling
  • budget 3D modeling advise
  • Frosteler's Blog
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  • Help with parts and bottlenecking
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  • HELP ME PLEASE!!!!
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  • SoloGamingG1's Blog
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  • HELP!
  • JBPblogging
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  • AlexAppleTips
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
  • first gaming pc build
  • ShayanLP's Blog
  • R4 Build #2
  • RAVE
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  • Sanlee Sa's Blog
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  • PC Spec help
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  • ZonkyHD
  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
  • URGENT
  • Best 2011-v3 motherboard
  • SirMonti's Blog
  • PC Issues
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  • Which headphones
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  • Should i buy this prebuild pc?
  • tleejr5349's Blog
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  • Voltage computer systems
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
  • James's Blog
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
  • My Dream PC
  • My Gaming Rig Review
  • Drummaboy57's Blog
  • A techy blog
  • WIDE SCREENS UHH :3
  • Nettot's Blog
  • AbdulQadeer's Blog
  • Jake's Tech Selects
  • TheSkylord2104's Blog
  • PSU Upgrade?
  • Thoughts from Sunshine1868
  • handymanshandle's Blog of Blogginess
  • one fault about amd GPUs
  • For the Noobs
  • SmittyWerbenJagerManJensen's Blog
  • Shyamrao's Blog
  • Dell Inspiron 15r (5520)
  • Raman_Kumar_Kharche's Blog
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  • THE BEAST
  • Open looped water cooling
  • BigKahuna's Blog
  • pcman365's Blog
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  • GeorgeJacobIsANerd's Blog
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
  • Systool Overclocking Infectious
  • PatonFTW's Blog
  • Motherboard & Case upgrade!
  • JonnySel007's Blog
  • Noob looking to upgrade
  • Scrapyard Wars Ideas
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  • New pc for under 750$
  • Hackintosh Under 5000 USD
  • Sekhon's Blog
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
  • Please Help
  • Harry__Bird's Blog
  • Noob Builder
  • Love Minecraft Blog
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  • kiwicasper's Blog
  • Sound Card suggestions?
  • New Cars Review Blog
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  • Honda dream of life
  • Gaming Monitor
  • Using Microsoft Edge
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  • AIO to Dsktop plan
  • Xboxfreak's Blog
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  • Choosing a UPS battery backup
  • tibosuys_'s Blog
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  1. I have been dealing with this annoying notification that keeps popping up every time I go to play a game. Sometimes my games crash a minute into game play, other times I can maybe get up to 30 minutes of game play without the games crashing but when the games crash I get the same "Application (game.exe) has been blocked from accessing graphics hardware." I have tried many different fixes. I have ran a system maintenance tool, I uninstalled and re-installed graphics drivers, I have done system file checker scans. I have even adjusted graphics settings in game. Nothing has worked and I don't know how to fix it. If someone knows how to fix this it would be extremely helpful. I will list all my pc components below if that is helpful. CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk GPU: XFX Radeon RX 590 Fatboy Ram: Corsair Vengeance lpx 3200 PSU: Corsair RM 750X OS: Windows 10, 1909 build
  2. I have a 100/20 connection for my desktop with a wired connection. But I am having issues were my download is between 6 and 8 mbps all the time. Making it extremely annoying to watch a stream at 1080p60. I tested the wifi speed on my phone and it clocked in at 10 ish mbps. I then tried my phone at the other 100/20 connection I have at my house and got 80 ish mbps. I brought an amplifier to my desktop location and tested again with my phone and it clocked in at 50mbps, which is understandable because of whats in the way and the wired connection was at 80mbps. So I thought the router/modem combo was faulty so I changed to just a modem. This seemed to fix the issue at the time, but the next day my internet speed was back at 10 ish mbps. There had been no changes to the system, no updates, no downloads, no new software or no new devices. I've tried restarting my computer, modem and the network card with no prevail. Making me belive theres something wrong with my desktop. Everything is up to date. Speeds tested with testmy.net. Specs: OS: Windows 10 64bit (Legal) (V.18362.836) Motherboard: Asus Prime Z-370 A (B.V. 2401) CPU: i7 9700k (No OC) RAM: Trident Z 2x8gb 3200mhz (XMP profile) GPU: ASUS RTX 2080 ROG Strix OC PSU: CoolerMaster V1000 LAN: Intel® I219V (D.V. 12.18.9.7) Storage: 1.x M.2(boot) 3x SSD 1x HDD Peripherals: Keyboard, mouse, controller, mic and streamdeck.
  3. Hello! I have connected my DualShock 4 PlayStation controller via an auxiliary cable to my PC’s front panel microphone jack. This was a solution to wanting to talk to my friends on my PC through Discord, and listen to the game on my PlayStation 4 simultaneously. I also have the Steelseries Arctic Pro Wireless headset. This headset uses a wireless transmitter that I plug into my computer via usb. A feature of the headset is “Chatmix” this allows for me to choose what I want to hear more, either my friends on discord or a game. Although unfortunately, as the DualShock 4 controller is connected to the pc and recognized as a microphone that I am listening to, it also turns down when I lower chat volume and increase game volume. I would like to have the DS4 audio changed to game audio so that I can turn it up or down depending on how much I want to hear my friends in Discord, or how much I want to hear the game compared to them. Thank you! Specs: Computer: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism LED Cooler MotherBoard: MSI Arsenal Gaming AMD Ryzen 2ND and 3rd Gen AM4 M.2 USB 3 DDR4 DVI HDMI Crossfire ATX Motherboard (B450 Tomahawk Max) GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 Super Founders Edition Graphics Card SSD: Inland Premium 512GB 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive HDD: WD Blue 2TB PC Hard Drive - 5400 RPM Class, SATA 6 Gb/s, 256 MB Cache, 3.5" - WD20EZAZ RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3000 MHz DDR4 DRAM Desktop Gaming Memory Kit 16GB (8GBx2) CL15 COOLING: Cooler Master MasterFan MF120R ARGB 120mm 3 in 1 CASE: Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic Monitor: VIOTEK GN27DB 27-Inch Curved Gaming Monitor, 1440p 144Hz Samsung VA Panel, FreeSync GamePlus FPS/RTS – VESA (Black) Headphones: Steelseries Arctis Pro Wireless Keyboard: Logitech G513 RGB Backlit Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Romer-G Tactile Keyswitches (Carbon) Mouse: Logitech G703 LIGHTSPEED Mousepad: SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - XL RGB Prism Cloth
  4. Im currently planning on taking all of the standard form factor components out of my HP Pavilion Gaming Desktop, and putting them into a new case with a new better processor. Im trying to decide between a 3600 or a 2700x (either will be overclocked) for streaming both flat games and VR Games. it will be paired up with an RX 580 4GB (yes it isn't the best card, but i'm focusing on upgrading the 2400g first cause the RX 580 still works fine for me.) Which one would be better for my use case? Im also looking for a good ryzen motherboard in the $150 range. needs to have an M.2 Slot(hopefully 2 but one is okay,) plenty of fan and RGB headers, and support Ryzen 3000 out of the box cause i'm not comfortable doing BIOS upgrades because my power is very inconsistent with flickering on and off. I was thinking this one but I'm not sure how good it is (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Prime-X470-Pro-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07C57Q1XH?th=1) If you have any suggestions please let me know. Thanks!
  5. So I posted last night, but I figured more out and I pretty much stayed up all night researching for what to do. This shouldn't bother me but for some reason it does. I have a ROG STRIX 2070 Super Advanced Edition, says it on the box, and on the GPU itself with the serial number So I just realized that ASUS GPU Tweak II does not recognize my 2070 Super like it did before. It used to say "STRIX-RTX2070S" but now it just says "RTX 2070 Super". It doesn't even recognize that it's a Strix card, and I've reinstalled drivers twice, and GPU tweak 2. That's problem one. Problem two is that my idle core clock BEFORE boosting to whatever I set it to is ALWAYS 1605, which is right for the "Gaming Mode" on what the website says, but if I change the profile to OC mode, it's supposed to be 1635, but it doesn't change it. Even on GPUz, my core clock BEFORE boosting stays at 1605, and never changes depending on what Profile I pick. Does anyone know why my PC suddenly changed the name of my GpU or why Gpu tweak doesn't recognize my STRIX card? And no it's not that GPU tweak can't recognize different manufactured cards because it does I've seen it with my 1070 and I see it on screenshots online. Here are reference screenshots there are two: Screenshots of what the name is supposed to look like I also switched my bios of my card from quiet to performance to see if that was the case since there's a tiny switch on my card but nothing changed
  6. my pc is crashing at random the screen freezes and clips of the sound loops no bluescreen
  7. anyone know how to fix it, i tried charging it and the indicator light went on but turned off shortly after, anyone know why and how to fix?
  8. Hi everyone, I've recently upgraded to a Sapphire Nitro+ 5700XT and dual Acer Nitro VG271UPbmiipx 144Hz FreeSync enabled monitors and I'm having a strange issue regarding FreeSync and black screen stuttering, although seemingly not uncommon I've yet to find a solution which works for me. Whenever opening a game from a cold boot (by cold boot I mean full power off and left off for a few minutes) the black screen stuttering will occur with any interaction (occurs with CS:GO and WoW). If I turn FreeSync off, the problem goes away. Also this did not seem to occur when the monitors were set to 60Hz. The problem is always resolved on a reboot (reloading GFX drivers does not seem to work). But this solution is annoying at best... and particularly after my first PC component upgrade in quite a while I've tried a number of v19 and v20 Radeon drivers and the problem persists (with and without the bloated software). DDU''d several times both nvidia and AMD. I've also installed the monitor drivers from the Acer website. Edit to add some more details: Windows 10 64bit Both monitors connected via HDMI (issue occurs on both monitors) ASUS P8Z68-V PRO mobo with i7-2600K (Yes old, this was step one of upgrading my PC whilst improving my working from home experience..) 850W Corsair PSU Does anyone have any suggestions? Many thanks
  9. FINAL EDIT: Ok so this is my only, and final edit to this post. I got no replies but I am editing it now in the event someone has this problem in the future and finds this resource. To be clear, in the end I was unable to get my OS to boot, HOWEVER, I was able to recover all of my data and start fresh with all my old data on a cleanly formatted machine, without any losses; effectively, I found a workaround, not a solution, to my original problem. I will document the steps needed to do this here. Before anything, read the original post and decide that the problem you face is the same problem I've described here. This procedure WILL wipe your drive, and effectively give you a new OS, though your data will be preserved. Remove all drives except the misbehaving NVMe drive; this is more or less a protective measure, to prevent any unanticipated data loss. Create a Windows To-Go USB thumb drive (NOT a Windows installation media). You can use a USB 2.0 if it's all you have around (it's what I used), but it will be quite sluggish. To create a Windows To-Go USB, there are plenty of tutorials floating about online, but I used the Windows Media Creation Tool to download a Windows .iso and used Rufus to create a boot-able USB with Windows To-Go. Perform your first boot to Windows To-Go on your defunct machine with the NVMe drive inserted. Go through the set up process like normal. You can skip all the online account set up stuff and all the updates; just get to the desktop. Open File Explorer, and verify that you can see your NVMe drive listed when you select "This PC". If you cannot, you may be out of luck, and your SSD may need to be RMA'd, Insert an external hard drive onto which you will back up your files. Copy over anything you want to keep (App Data, Documents, or even your whole user folder). Anything you do not save now will be deleted! Once you're satisfied with you data haul, you will need to create a Windows Installation Media, and again I used the Windows Media Creation Tool. Insert your installation media into your machine with ONLY your NVMe SSD to prevent erroneous formatting of drives. Verify that you are still unable to boot from your NVMe drive, and that the only boot-able option in BIOS is your installation media. Install Windows like you normally would for a new machine, selecting custom install, imputing your product key if you have one, and when it asks you for the drive on which you would like to install Windows, you need to delete the partition of your NVMe SSD (there should only be one partition listed), and reformat this drive. In doing so, you will be able to install Windows cleanly and boot into a fresh, new OS. Don't forget to copy all your files back over from your external storage device. You can also reconnect any additional storage media, such as game drives at this point. And that's it. Although I was unable to ever learn how to solve my problem, or even why it was happening in the first place, I at least was able to come up with a remedy that preserved all of my data, and only cost me about half a day of downtime. Thank you for coming to my TED talk. Initial post follows below. ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Preface: Hi all! First time poster, so forgive me if I am missing some of the standard operating procedures here. Please let me know if I am in the right place for assistance. I will attempt to be quite diligent in responding and updating this post. System Specs: CPU - Ryzen 3900X MoBo - Asus Prime X570 P Memory - G.Skill FlareX 32 GB (2x16 GB) (Part: F4-3200C14D-32GFX) Storage - 500 GB WD Black NVMe Black SSD GPU - GeForce RTX 2080 Ventus 8G OC PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA 750 GA (750 Watt, 80+ Gold) OS - Windows 10 Pro In Brief: Today after trying and failing to overclock my memory, I was forced to clear my CMOS when I pushed the envelope a bit too far and I couldn't even enter the BIOS (not sure but it might have failed to POST or, more-likely, the RAM timings were too tight to function). Upon re-inserting the battery and reconnecting everything, I was sent straight back into BIOS and my SSD with my OS was not listed as a boot-able option. Everything else looked normal though. After trying a whole host of possible solutions I feel like I've learned a lot about the issue, yet I'm no closer to solving it. Description: Background I recently built a new system, as my old one (the one from which I write you now) was nigh on 5 years old and it was starting to show. I bought everything fresh and new, save my GPU which was purchased refurbished. I opted for an entry level X570 MoBo as I was not interested in any overclocking at the time of construction. It worked great for the last couple of weeks, I was able to work, game, browse, all at the same time without so much as breaking a sweat. All was well until today, when I, ever the optimist, decided to try and push my luck with some mild memory overclocking. I used Ryzen DRAM calculator to find what I believed to be a safe timing enhancement given my memory specs. To the best of my ability I tweaked around in the BIOS until I was sure everything was input correctly, and I saved and rebooted, only to be greeted with... nothing; I left it for about 5 minutes to think about its life decisions (I thought maybe it needed some time to POST the first time memory settings like this were changed, no idea why). Seeing as nothing was happening, I realized I hecked up and decided to opt for my last-resort option of clearing the CMOS, and this my dear readers is where tragedy struck. The Problem After clearing the CMOS, I re-inserted the battery and made sure everything was back in its proper place. I hit the power button and successfully was greeted with the option to enter BIOS, which I did to make sure everything was back to normal. All looked well, my memory was registering as 32 GB and the clock speed and timings were back to the default. Only problem was, I now had no boot-able devices found. I'm getting a little nervous at this point because I was worried I had fried either something on my MoBo or my SSD. Trying not to panic I did all my idiot checks and isolated the problem as best I could. I removed my extra 1 TB drive, and swapped M.2 slots, and still nothing. I verified that the device is registered as an NVMe storage device by the BIOS, and even ran a device self test in the NVMe Configuration page of the BIOS. At this point I decided to do some research and see if other people had this issue. I found a couple of forum posts with some ideas and I tried them but to no avail. I am now stuck with a very expensive paperweight and would like to know if there is anybody out there who can help me out here. What I've Tried A post on Tom's Hardware seemed promising, but did not work, despite my best efforts. The description of the problem seemed similar enough that it was worth a shot. I created a Window's install USB in the event I needed to resort to the nuclear option, but used the install tool to try and view the partition. I found that the installation media was able to recognize the NVMe drive, but it said it wouldn't be able to install windows on that particular partition (I would need to delete/reformat) and gave the following message: This is just a little bit beyond the edge of my understanding, despite my best research efforts, so I don't really understand what this means. However, one helpful piece of insight I gained her was that when I selected the Load driver option in the installation screen, and then selected browse, I was able to view my filesystem, including all my documents and folders. and it had the correct "C:" volume label, which did give me a little hope that my data might be recoverable at least. Next I wanted to see if I could boot to Windows at all on the machine from a separate drive, and if I was going to be able to recover any data from the NVMe drive. So I made a Window's to Go USB and booted to that. And it worked! I was able to view my NVMe filesystem and save the important stuff to another external drive. This verified for me that my filesystem was completely in-tact and the data was recoverable. But despite the OS still being on the drive and functioning more-or-less as any other external drive, I am still unable to get it to boot to windows from the drive. Conclusion: And that's pretty much everything the is to tell about how I ended up in this situation, and where I need some assistance. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to provide any information that could be relevant. To reiterate, I am unable to boot to my NVMe SSD despite all signs pointing to the drive being configured appropriately. This suggests to me that perhaps the issue is somewhere between the BIOS and the drive, but I don't feel like I know enough to say for certain at this time. Any help that some of you might be able to offer would be greatly appreciated. Also, again, this is my first post so I apologize if some of the minutiae of this forum's etiquette were lost on me, and would appreciate feedback where appropriate. Thank you. ADDING NOTE HERE FOR VISIBILITY: Read the final edit at top of post for my eventual resolution to the problem!
  10. so i just built a new pc because i couldnt figure out what makes the bad display in my old rig. other then the psu, (formated)ssd and 16 g 2666mhz ram every thing else is brand new and i have the same display problem. the monitor works fine on my laptop with the same hdmi caple and i have the same issue on 2 different monitors. you can see the white stripes inside the crop squere when it disapperes 20200414_225017.mp4
  11. Hi. So recently I upgraded my gpu to a Sapphire Pulse RX5700 to play wicther 3 on 4k tv. I downloaded GPUz to see some temps and realized my gpu is hot. It was barley using half its vram and it hit 88 celsius. I am running on 20.4.1. I have 2 intake fans and 2 outtake in a cougar mx-330 g case. Could this be a defective cooler? Thanks for your help. Note: I have it set to silent bios.
  12. SO, here is the deal, I have a Corsair Virtuoso SE headset. They work like charm, in all 100+ games, but they crackle in the new COD Modern Warfare. When I play the game, the audio starts to crackle and after a while even my mouse and keyboard disconnects. The disconnection only happens after the audio begins to crackle. Any ideas how to solve it. Btw from what I have notice, it only happens during wireless mode, but I could be wrong. Any more info, please let me know. my pc i7 6700k OC 4.4ghz RTX 2080 Asus Z 170A mobo Evga 850 Gold+ 1tb Rocket NVME M.2 SSD 500gb Samsung SSD 3TB HDD Coolermaster hyper 212 16gb Vengance Ram
  13. So i have an access point connected to my router, with everything working ok. I tried to connect the ap via a new switch i got and it doesnt work. I keeps saying obtaining ip address which i asume means it isnt connected to the router. I have have tried all the ports on the switch. (this is the one : https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/download/tl-sf1005d/ version 15). any help is appricieted thanks.
  14. I have a ASUS ROG RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION motherboard witch has builtin WIFI and antenna. The antenna is damaged and I have installed a ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Pci-E Adapter. I have installed the software for it, but my computer only uses the motherboard WIFI. How do I change it to use the PCI-E WIFI?
  15. I used to get more fps in games than i am now. this is my benchmark https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/25375540 . im not very experienced so if anyone can help me i will be happy :)
  16. I just built a pc with a 5960x, an asus rampage v edition 10, and x2 8gb sticks of gskill 3200mhz ram. When I tried to overclock the ram to 3200mhz using the xmp the system doesn’t boot and I have to reset the bios. The same thing happens when I use the asus over clock presets and when I manually set the ram to 3200mhz and leave the rest on auto. I have tried increasing the ram voltage but that doesn’t seem to help and that is the only setting I felt comfortable adjusting because I don’t know much about ram overclocking. I have the same ram in another sky lake pc with a very similar motherboard and xmp works just fine so I don’t know what’s going on. One other thing in I have been able to get the ram to run at 2600mhz up from the base of 2133mhz by manually changing the speed but anything above that and the system won’t boot. I just want to get it running at 3200mhz, thanks in advance.
  17. Hi. I’m hoping someone could help me figure out how to get my laptop working. My laptop got stuck in a boot loop and then when I ran a hardware scan to see if it was a problem with the actual laptop it came back with no issues and now whenever I try to boot it it boots into the hardware scan and comes back with no issues again. If I hit continue after that it reboots into the hardware scan again. Dell support told me they could help me troubleshoot for $130 which is ridiculous. Can anyone help?
  18. Hello, Recently after moving cross country (the US that is) I went and tried to boot my trust gaming rig discovered it wouldn't boot into windows! So I did some tinkering around and determined that one of my two NVMe SSD's was dead, the one with windows on it! While I keep a offsite copy of important documents I would like to recover my Witcher 3 save files. So insert more tinkering around and voila! The BIOS recognizes the Windows Installation Manager installed on the supposedly dead drive, so I boot from it and get to a windows error screen stating that it couldn't connect to some device and giving me the error code "0xc000000e". After doing some research on the interwebs I tried a few things, I plugged in a windows installation media I had laying around (it is a Windows 10 Home edition media, whereas I have Windows 10 Pro installed on my PC, does that matter?) Then when launching into the recovery media I did a few things, first used the built in windows repair tool... no luck. Secondly, I went into the command prompt and launched DISKPART to see if the drive is recognized and healthy according to DISKPART and it is! So I follow the advice of some random websites and run the following commands in this order (after exiting diskpart) bootrec/scanos bootrec/fixmbr bootrec/fixboot bootrec/rebuildbcd Well a few issues arouse while doing that. First, 'bootrec/scanos' did not find an install of Windows 10. Secondly, when I ran 'fixboot' it replied 'access is denied' Finally, 'rebuildbcd' as you might have guessed, did not find an install of Windows 10. On the upside, 'fixmbr' theoretically did something. If someone could explain what is going on I would happily buy them one copy of whatever regularly priced game on steam that they want! My poor Witcher 3 saves...
  19. Hey everyone. I tried to upgrade the BIOS of an ASUS B150 Pro Gaming AURA on a secondary machine using ASUS's EZ Flash BIOS utility. I set it to download the BIOS from the internet (rather than pull it off a USB stick) and update it. I left it for about an hour, came back, and noticed the screen was dead and that the PC was on, but VERY quiet. Left it another half hour, saw nothing had changed, so made the (probably stupid) decision to turn it off and see if it had simply got stuck. Since then, the machine's been in pretty much the same state. It won't POST, so I can't access the BIOS settings. The lights on the motherboard come on (both the system and LEDS), and the CPU, fans, etc are powered / appear to be functioning, but there's no display or sound output, and USB devices don't seem to be powered or active. The error LEDs (for CPU, RAM) on the board don't light up, except very briefly when it turns on. Looking at the manual, this seems normal. I've tried some basic stuff using the motherboard's on-board graphics outputs (HDMI and VGA) instead of the ones on the GPU, taking out the battery to reset the CMOS and shorting the relevant pins on the motherboard to reset settings, but neither option has given me any signs of life. Plugging in a USB stick with a good BIOS on, as ASUS recommends for recovery, doesn't seem to do anything, presumably as there's no power going to the USB as the lights on the stick showing that it's in use don't turn on. I assume the best thing to do would be to flash the BIOS chip using a separate device and plug it back in, but I've never really encountered any issues like this before. Does anyone have any experience with something like this, and if so, what do you think's going on? Have I completely killed the board, or am I right in thinking that getting a good BIOS would fix it? If it's relevant or helpful, the motherboard's about four years old, with an i5 6500K (yes, unlocked on a board that doesn't support OC...), a 1070, 16 gigs of RAM and a decent (gold rated) 550W PSU. There were no issues prior to the BIOS update.
  20. Specs: Motherboard: ASRock B450M Steel Legend CPU: Ryzen 7 2700 GPU: RX580 8gb RAM: 2x8gb Corsair Vengeance 2400mhz Powersupply: 650W Bronze So I'd like to preface this by saying that I've tried all of the usual troubleshooting methods such as msconfig and windows memory diagnostic tool, as well asregedit and seeing if my RAM was just seated incorrectly. None of these helped and I'm pulling my hair out. My computer definitely detects both sticks of ram, bios included. Apparently over half of my ram is "Hardware Reserved". Pic Related:
  21. I am very sorry to inform you that I am not building a pc, I would love to but I'm too scared to try. But anyway I found this budget gaming pc and I need to know how it's going to run before I buy it it's my first gaming pc and I would love some feedback it's an ASUS ROG gl10 Hard Drive Capacity1TB HDD + 256GB SSD PRODUCT FEATURES: Processor BrandAMD RAM8 GB DDR4 Processor Speed3.6GHz (32M cache, up to 4.4GHz) Processor ModelAMD 8-Core RYZEN 7 3700X CPU, 3.6GHz Graphics CardNVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 4GB price is about 700 dollars
  22. I'm doing this build (first build) and I need to know how will this pc will perform before I buy the parts, if anyone can help me I will very kindly appreciate it the specs are 1TB HDD + 256gb SSD Operating SystemWindows 10 RAM8 GB DDR4 2666Mhz Processor Speed3.6GHz (32M cache, up to 4.4GHz) Processor ModelAMD 8-Core RYZEN 7 3700X CPU, 3.6GHz Graphics CardNVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 4GB
  23. So I built my first pc 2 weeks ago and it was running great. But yesterday it ended up just going black on Skyrim and now it doesn’t display at all. I’ve tried a number of things. Checking my gpu. Reseating the ram. Checked my cpu. Checked my cords. My monitors working just fine. I’m out of options other than taking it to micro center but that won’t be able to be done till Friday. My specs are ryzen 7 2700x with stock cooler not oc. Radeon 580 red dragon. 16gbs of Corsair vengeance lpx at 3200 MHz. A 650 watt psu. An aurours. B450 atx motherboard.
  24. My computer which is a prebuilt hp pavilion with a GTX 1060 3gb and ryzen 5 2400g 16gb of ddr4 ram 1tb hard drive 500gb ssd and the monitor is a LG ultragear 24gl600f the monitor says no signal and the mouse and keyboard don't turn on with RGB when I turn the computer on I unplugged everything and plugged it back in and I plugged in a charger to the computer and it worked but the mouse and keyboard don't any ideas on how to fix this?
  25. My computer which is a prebuilt hp pavilion with a GTX 1060 3gb and ryzen 5 2400g 16gb of ddr4 ram 1tb hard drive 500gb ssd and the monitor is a LG ultragear 24gl600f the monitor says no signal and the mouse and keyboard don't turn on with RGB when I turn the computer on I unplugged everything and plugged it back in and I plugged in a charger to the computer and it worked but the mouse and keyboard don't any ideas on how to fix this?
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