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I am planning to use an external DAC for my PC. I am a complete newbie in audio so I've looked for entry-level ones and now I'm looking at the iFi Uno. I have a headphone for it already, but I also still want to use my old speaker, Edifier M3200, it's a 2.1 active speaker (I assume it's active). The speaker's manual says that powered signal should not be fed into it. But after some reading, my current understanding is that the iFi Uno functions as a headphone amplifier (cmiiw), but I also read that a DAC only converts signal not amplifying it. So that gives me a bit of confusion. The iFi Uno uses USB-C connection to the computer, and for output it has a 3.5mm headphone jack and RCA (red and white). My Edifier has two 3.5mm inputs at the back of its subwoofer, one for PC and one for CD. Currently I'm assuming that I could use a RCA-to-3.5mm cable to connect the DAC to my speaker. Is that a correct way to do it? For reference, here's the links to the Uno and Edifier: 2.1 Multimedia Speaker Subwoofer System | M3200 -【Edifier】 The uno by iFi audio - The new sonic supercharger from iFi (ifi-audio.com)

Hello, we recently got these in at work from a retiring user, and i saw the desktop speakers and were intrigued by the desktop sitting drivers. They are Planar magnetic speakers, which I heard are usually supposed to be pretty good ( I'm not super familiar so i could be wrong). So i was thinking about using the the desktop speakers and pairing them with a newer amp. Here's where this post come in, it's got RCA cables to connect it to the amp. I need some suggestions on how I should go about getting these working. Do I get a amp that will work with it, or do i try to convert it to speaker wire by just stripping them. The stripping from what I read it might not be the best idea because of the resistance of the cables, which concerns me I don't want these to sound like garbage/ melt cables. Should I take them apart and swap it straight to speaker wire ? If anyone has experience with this I would be very appreciative! Pic i found of them online.

Hey everyone, like the title says, I am looking for new speakers for 100 or lower ideally. These are intended for my side monitor, when I use my main monitor with its speakers for console gaming and want to watch youtube/stream and hear discord notifications on the side. Thank you very much in advance!

I have a Monster Rocking Roller 3 speaker that isn't working. I have checked the power cable, but when I plug it in and turn the switch on it doesn't turn on. However, the built in AC outputs work when I plug my phone's charging cable into them. The USB ports do not work. What should be my next step with troubleshooting?

So my speaker system is normally switched off but these days it was switched ON. But today outta nowhere I heard this weird banging noise coming outta nowhere and I realise that it's the Z313 2.1 speaker system... As you can see down in the videos, the subwoofer is giving out a beat for no reason and when I plug the speakers IN the Left speaker also starts to follow that same banging sound and rhythm. Is this thing fixable or should I just throw it away ??? Some help would really do me some good. By the way, one video shows the subwoofer itself while the other video shows the subwoofer with the speakers plugged in... 20231028_174047 (1) (1).mp4 20231028_174210 (1) (1).mp4

I want to buy speakers for my home desk for high-quality sound and music production. I currently have the Creative Pebble speakers, which aren’t great. I don’t have a very high budget, and am currently looking on Facebook Marketplace for good studio monitors/ speakers around the £30-£40 mark. What is a good recommendation? Also, is Wattage a massive issue?

Hi there, my dad has these old Hitachi speakers that he bought second hand in about 1985. They don’t work anymore and I was wondering if anyone knew anything about them to help me either fix them or find someone who knows how to fix them (based in the UK). Thank you.

Hello, I recently ordered the B&O Beoplay A1 bluetooth speaker on Amazon and got it yesterday. I registered a slight background buzzing which is audible up to 1m in distance. (when no music playing) It gets very clear the closer your ear gets to the speaker. I tried comparing it to my father's Bose Soundlink 2 Mini and it also has a bit of a background buzz but the noise on my Beoplay A1 is way more audible. So I started searching the internet and found quotes like (1)"The noise can happen with low-end speakers" or (2)"Could be other signals interfering with the speaker's Bluetooth receiver". (1)The Beoplay A1 is certainly not low-end. (2)The noise is always there, even with no device connected. I also read that amplifiers cause these kind of noises and every speaker has got it. I do not have the knowledge to verify that. I have the speaker on full volume and control the rest with my device (phone/tablet). (bad habit?) Even with music playing, the noise is there. You have to listen very closely and the music has to be pretty silent. I'm no audio-hardware expert at all (know nothing about it actually), so please don't flame. So is that normal or did I receive a bad model? Any audio experts out there? Greetings and thanks in advance

Thank you in advance for your help. I was looking to get a JBL Charge 4 for my dad's boat but he would like to have local radio on it as well. I figured a small radio receiver with a 3.5mm aux would be best but I don't see any options like this and there isn't much info on this type of setup. I understand not many people want local radio anymore. I found this Sony Dual Band FM/AM Analog Portable Battery Radio Home Audio Radio Black (ICF-19) on Amazon and think this would work. What is the best way to add radio to a Bluetooth speaker?

Hey everyone first off, yes, I know there have been some threads on the internet and also here about this. However, I went through pretty much all of them and I think I tried just about everything suggested in there. I'm probably having a ground loop, but I am out of ideas on how to fix it without cutting off the ground from the speakers, as I do not want to risk getting electrecuted. So regarding my problem: I built my new PC a while ago and as soon as I started it up for the first time I noticed the static noise whenever the GPU load increases. I use an external audio interface (UA Volt 276) with KRK G3 ROKIT 6 speakers, connected via 2-pole-TRS (aka. mono 1/4" jacks). I already tried using 3-pole ones for the symmetrical connection that should in theory filter out the noise but to no evail. The problem is not from my audio interface, as I have already tried it with another audio interface (Native Instruments KOMPLETE Audio 6 Mk. 1), but had the same problems there. I also tried removing every device from the power or the usb connection one by one, but that didn't change anything except when I unplugged the speakers (duh). I also tried if it would make a difference if I plugged in the speakers to a different power socket, but it doesn't. Turning off the audio interface does not solve the problem, but pulling out the TRS cable does. Also it does not make a difference if the audio interface is plugged into the computer directly or via USB hub. The PC uses an MSI B-660A, an Intel i7-12700F, an NVIDIA RTX 3060 (MSI Ventus Dual Fan Variant) and 32 GB of Ripjaws as RAM, all packed into a Corsair 4000D. The PSU is a Seasonic FOCUS GX 750W 80+ Gold, and the estimated wattage is at around 494W (according to pcpartpicker), so I don't think it's a power issue. There should not be any leaky current, at least I don't feel a tingly sensation when I go over the computer. I also double checked if all cables are plugged in correctly, which they are. My old PC with an NVIDIA GTX 1060 and an Intel i7-7770 had no static issues whatsoever, but I really don't want to go back to that, especially since most of that system is over 10 years old by now. I am really out of options on what I can still do and it is really annoying. If anyone still has any idea, please let me know. EDIT: What I forgot to mention was that the noise is ONLY on the speakers and NOT on my headphones that are also connected to the same audio interface.

Hello, I received a Fenda F770X as a gift. Sadly the noise is quite bad. At lower volumes it dilutes the sound and when nothing is playing it is more noticeable than my PC fans. As it is a gift and that the giver often comes around I cannot replace it - I would find it insulting and frankly I am grateful for the gift nonetheless. Can I somehow fix the noise? (by internal modding) I am willing to put the time into it... Thanks

I was hoping to ask a few technical questions that I wasn't able to understand online. I'm planning ot move into a new place for university and with a new desk and carpet flooring, I thought I'd add audio! I am moving from Logitech Z623 over to some new bookshelf speakers for both audio quality and my new white theme aesthetic. My general budget is roughly $300, but I may go over depending on the questions (the missing third component I'm confused about, see below). Before anything: Here's what I picked out after lots of readings on Reddit/audio forums/audio articles https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJHAZZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Edifier MR4 - $129 USD) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FXG9BLR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Monoprice 150w Active Subwoofer 109723 - $125) [Not to be mistaken with Monoprice's SW-12] I am very used to a 2.1 setup and do not care a bunch about having neutral-flat sound signatures. I'm sure the monitors will sound fine and they seem to beat the competition in the same price bracket (R1280XX, JBL, etc). I heard my friend's Edifier R1280DBs, which is apparently similar to the MR4's but comes out slightly worse. I noticed his Bass was fine only in higher volumes, but one reason I loved the Logitech z623's was because of its rolling bass. It's 200w RMS, with the subwoofer accounting for 130w. Logitech support couldn't get me a driver diameter for some reason, but I have reason to believe it's 6 or 7 inches. It helped a lot when calling on discord, or watching videos involving a lot of dialogue at low volumes (bass roller set high). Additionally, I understand Edifier MR4 don't come with sub-out ports, but I really like the look and convenience of the front headphone jack. The Edifier 1280's don't fit the theme. I assumed (could be wrong) all the $100-$150 active/powered subwoofers were going to come out better than the Logitech's (or at least on par). Some others I looked into: 1.) Polk PS10 which people call the bottomfeeder sub ("I saw this one get flamed so much on those audio sites im scared to pick) 2.) Dayton SUB-10000 & Dayton SUB-1200 which was supposedly the best (didn't pick because I really am just using this really casually. Didn't want to add the $40) 3.) Yamaha Audio 10" 100W (one source said tyhis is the best but its even more pricey than Dayton) 4.) Edifier T5 (Prob worse than previous options at same price and is only 8in) 5.) BESTISAN 100w 8" (super tempting because of price. If it's "good enough", let me know) Option 5 link: https://www.amazon.com/BESTISAN-100-Watt-Powered-Subwoofer-Distortion/dp/B09Q82T1ZL/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=BESTISAN&qid=1684083776&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0 Option 5 has a 25$ coupon & 10% off on top of that so the price drops to 70$. I was considering trying both the Monoprice I picked and just seeing which is "sufficient" for me. Feel free to give me some advice as I am really going off of just some things I read online. It's very much appreciated Question: Here's where things get confusing for me: Now, I'm not exactly an audiophile and I usually use wired earphones (7Hz Timeless)connected directly to my motherboard, and it sounds just fine. However, when it came to the Kanto YU6 speakers I tried, I really felt I needed to allocate budget to a subwoofer as I can not get used to that. I don't need a perfectly neutral sound signature and I'd prefer to mess with My idea is to relocate my Odyssey G9 (+Ergotron HX arm) to the corner of my bedroom to save desk space and allow for speakers to fit on each side of the monitor. The desk will be an L-shape to make this work. The sub will be under my desk and the speakers will be pointing at me from about 3-5ft away supposedly. Here's where it gets tricky though. Judging from the lack of sub-out port on the Edifier MR4, I was thinking of the following options that may or may not work. My ideal case is to pick the one that has the best sound quality without spending a whole lot. The source would be my PC's motherboard rear audio jack. Note: both speaker and Subwoofer are wired & Active/Powered). Op1.) I purchase a 3.5mm splitter such as this aux splitter and just connect split the audio coming out of my PC to both the active Subwoofer and active bookshelf speakers. Op2.) Connect the Subwoofer to my PC. I then connect the bookshelf speaker to the subwoofer's "line out". (I don't really understand the crossover dial & "high-level IN/Out" on the back ports" I'll assume I wont have easy access to turning the bass dial on the subwoofer. This is the least ideal because I won't be able to use the sub when connecting to the bookshelf speaker via front-aux-port or Bluetooth. Op3.) I purchase a stereo mixer / budget amp / receiver/ Audio interface / Audio-Switch [Pick One?] to split the source audio and send out to the subwoofer and cabinet speaker. Would allow me to change the volume levels of the bass (sub) and speakers and I probably wouldn't adjust anything else. Also, many of them have a convenient headphone (or aux) jack I can use instead of the front ports on the speaker. Example of the stereo mixer: Stereo Mixer (Worth noting I have one of these but it's super ugly and used for karaoke.) Example of the budget amp: fancy tube amp thing (Typical random 2.1 amp I found.) Example of BLUETOOTH amp: fancy tube amp thing (Cheapest 2.1 bluetooth amp because my pc has BT and I dont need more watts for active speaker/sub) Example of Reciever: stereo receiver (No expert but pretty sure it's only necessary when I'm doing more than 2.1 audio, usually for theatre setups and PASSIVE speakers/subs) Example of Audio Interface: Audio interface (might not work ) Example of Audio Switch: Audio Switch (most practical/Ideal??? ) Question: Q1.) for OP1, would it really work? Does the sub just take in the whole audio and selectively display the lower frequency? Q2.) Would OP2 Work? Would connecting the speaker to the subwoofer instead of the PC (like in op1) cause any sort of noticeable delay/buzz/distortion? Q3.) If I picked Q3, which is quite tempting with the convenient nob controls for output 1 (bass volume, or subvolume) and output 2 (bookshelf speakers volume), what would I buy? To my understanding a mixer's got excessive stuff for microphones, audio interfaces have useless features like a phantom for mics, and receivers/amps are useless because I have active speakers/subs. I think the Audio switch option is the most practical but I could be wrong. TLDR: I picked bookshelf speakers with no sub-out and also bought a subwoofer. Both are active/powered. How do I connect both of them to my PC? Please let me know!!, thank you very much.

I want to use existing speakers i have as speakers behind me and i was wondering if there was a product of some kind that splits audio into different channels like front left/right and back left/right. I'm not too well versed in all of this and don't want to spend an arm an and a leg for a whole setup. Sorry if this sounds weird or anything just hoping for the best. thanks for any help

As the title suggests, I want to connect my old panasonic sb-ak17 to my pc as much as possible. It was with me for such a long time and I don't want to throw and waste it so I thought that I can repurpose it as my desktop speakers. But I don't know how and I don't even know if it is possible. Can some of you guys help me regarding this? That will be greatly appreciated.

i know it is sound weird but im new to this audio world... I have a old amplifier with 2 old speakers and they work great! But i want to connect another 3 speakers, canter and two rears My problem is that i don't know if after i connect the speakers i will get good stereo sound, In the audio world can be a bottleneck like in the pc world ? For example good amplifier and good speakers but the aux cable is not good? And there is a special drivers that i need to install like Dolby atoms and stuff? or the the windows drivers are fine? I will happy to know what can make my audio sound the best!

Helloo, I have a 5.1 audio system which works in general, but not on my current configuration from god knows what reason, and that's why I'm here, to get some help. The audio system is a Genius SW-5.1 3000, motherboard is a Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX. OS is Windows 10 Pro 19042.906 . I configured it in "mmsys.cpl" to a 5.1 surround, I pressed Test and everything works. I opened YouTube, I hit Play on my Playlist, and surprise, it only works in Stereo (Front Left and Front Right Speakers). No Center/Subwoofer, no Rear Speakers. Tried a couple of games and in some seems to be working, but other than that... no. Before upgrading the computer, I used a Dedicated Audio Card, Asus Xonar, and I used to have surround everywhere. Reinstalled my drivers after doing a clean uninstall of them, but the problem persists. Installed Realtek Audio Console to have more control, but no luck with it. Played a bit with the settings in Audio Console and I found a few things: if I activate Bass Management, then the subwoofer works but it's tied to the front speakers. If I test them, the subwoofer makes sound as well. if I activate and Environment effect, then the subwoofer makes a bit of sound. Just barely. if I assign every port to Front Speakers and change the Speaker Configuration to Stereo, then every speaker will work but it will become tied to the front speakers. Bellow you can see how I assigned my Back Panel. I tried switching them around but it still doesn't work. I'm totally out of ideas.

Front left speaker (Logitech z906) crackling/distorted sound. Troubleshooting steps performed: 1. Tried different devices (PC, macbook, mobile) and inputs. No change. 2. Swapped various speakers. All speakers are fine. Only front left ports have this issue. 3. Swapped working cable with front left. All cables are fine. No change. 4. Performed a reset for all settings. Device is out of warranty now. Please advise what can be done to fix this issue. Thanks.

I am in Indonesia. I've decided to go all-in with audiophile hobby and build dedicated 2.0 speaker setup. Speaker I've been eyeing is Wharfedale Evo 4.2, but speaker amplifier in shops are either (1) integrated amplifier or (2) AV Receiver from Denon, Onkyo, Cambridge, etc. which starts $350. Does anyone knows cheaper amplifier alternative for strictly 2.0 setup? no subwoofer nor surround setup planned. Is cheap amp like Fosi Audio trusted?

Ok this is really weird setup I know, but hear me out. I have a decent pair of active speaker (audio engine HD3+) (connected via the USB) I have another set of active speaker of similar quality but not from the audio engine. (support USB connection) since the other pair of speaker is just lying around collecting dust, I wanted to set them up as a rear channel. Bedrock of this question is 1. How do I connect 2 different set up speakers via 2 USB connection and set it up as a surround 2. If [1] doesn't work then if I connect both pairs with 3.5mm jack (audio engine in green and the other pair in black(or the rear channel) will it work? 3. Can default window 10 surround system support this? 4. if [3] doesn't work then if I grab something like SoundBlaster x3 will it work as surround in this setup 5. Is there any good external sound card recommendation below $300 for this purpose? 6. will this be worth it? lol

Hi, So I bought an ASUS ROG Zephyrus G15 (GA503QR) a while back and I'm loving it if it weren't for the fans ramping up to 100% and locking there sometimes.. Anyhow on to the issue: 2 days ago my laptop's speakers suddenly decided to sound like a telephone speaker. Very muffled, and quiet. I tried basically anything except hardware repair and Windows reinstallation. So: Restarting Uninstalling and reinstalling the Realtek drivers Uninstalling the device via Device Manager DDUing the Realtek drivers and reinstalling them through Windows Update I'm 99% sure it's a software issue, since it's only 2 months old and the issue began very suddenly after a normal restart. I hope you can help me since I'm at my wits end and reeeally don't wanna RMA it since I need this laptop everyday. Best regards!

I have totally give up on this issue, I wish someone would help me. This issue has been happening since 2011, the first PC that I purchase? So whenever I power on my Desktop, Monitor and Speaker (which is using a multi-socket block), there's an annoying, audible screeching noise. I initially thought that it was the speaker, as it's rather an old speaker bought during the P4 or early C2 era, Eco 2.1 with bass control (not sure what was the original pricing, but it was maybe just a single $50 note), as the 2011 desktop, I received a USB power speaker, which doesn't have the hissing noise--which really doesn't make sense for my motherboard to be the issue, heck, it's even had 3 upgrades (SB > IB > SL > CL), there's still the hissing noise. I have a tower fan, I thought it could be this is causing the EMI issue, but nope, even power off (there's a switch on the socket, oh it's UK plug), it's still screeching. Just few days ago, I tried separating the 2-pin speaker plug away from the multi-socket block, and have its own power socket, there's still hissing noise. I recently purchase Z313 because it was on a huge discount, and nope, still has the hissing noise. I might sell it away, because of lack of bass control. It's definitely not the socket strip that I'm using, it was change three times. It's not even the multi-socket block (13A), as I've replace with an almost brand new one. All have surge protection built-in--maybe it's a marketing deception, I am guessing Linus should test 'surge protector' plugs/strips. Any solutions that are within my reach? Maybe using a 3.5mm to SPDIF? Use an UPS to smooth power to my desktop, monitor and speaker? I don't think it's my house wiring, I remember that during an apartment upgrade--by the govt., there were electricians that check for house wiring, just in case we need a replacement. They said that the entire block has no need for a rewiring.

Hi all- My family is in the process of building a new home and in addition to running ethernet cables my dad wants to run speaker wire for his stereo in the wall. We are hoping to use either 14 or 12 AWG wire since some of the runs could be quite long (up to 80-100ft). We only need 2 wire cable instead of I see some are 4 wire. What cable brands have you guys had luck with? There are so many options it is almost overwhelming. We need a 500ft spool. I was trying to stay away from the CCA cable since I know that is not as good as pure copper, but the listings for the wire has that information buried so you don't notice it. Thanks all

My speakers give out sound on the right channel even when the volume knob is turned down to zero. Is the speaker gone? or some other issue with the speaker?

I recently obtained a pair of really nice powered speakers for my computer setup- Dynaudio LYD 5s. My issue is as follows: when plugged into my PC, and powered on, the speakers make a very loud, almost radio sounding static noise. The setup I am using to connect the speakers is via a XLR Y cable, through a DAC (Audioquest Dragonfly Red), finally plugging into one of the USB ports on my motherboard. I have tested this setup with my Macbook, it works perfectly there, with no static noise- the issue is definitely on the side of my PC, not any of my audio equipment. Here's what I have tried so far to fix: - Reinstalling/Updating sound drivers - Configuring sound settings every which way - Following almost every 'remove static from speakers PC' guide I could find on the internet - Verifying that the issue is probably not caused by a ground loop- all of the items in my setup are plugged into the same power bar, and besides, the speakers work perfectly through the Macbook. - Plugging the XLR cable directly into the audio output on the motherboard, without using the DAC, the static noise persists. - Plugging the DAC into the USB port on my PC case, didn't make any difference from the motherboard's USB ports, probably because that port is routed directly to the motherboard. At this point I'm fairly sure it's my motherboard causing the issue, as all ports on the motherboard or connected to the motherboard are generating the noise. I have no issues when using my headset, which is also connected to my motherboard via a different USB audio. Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be? Here are my system specs: - CPU: i7 8700k - Cooler: NZXT Kraken x52 - Mobo: ROG Strix B360-H - RAM: 32gb 3200MHz - GPU: GTX 1080 FE - PSU: EVGA 750 GQ 80+ Gold Certified

Title. I currently have 2.1 ch. Creative speakers with subwoofer which I got about 9 years ago. I'm looking for an upgrade that will perform well in music and games. But my one specific need is that it should have dual input so that I can use the same speaker for my PC and PS4 (through monitor's 3.5mm jack). Another question, is a speaker upgrade worth it at all? I don't know how much audio technology has improved over the years. Or should I buy inexpensive speakers just for the ps4? I was planning to hit two birds with one stone by just getting a single speaker that would provide both an upgrade and dual input, but I need more advice. Thanks.