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Yo! So for a month I have had a total of 4 freezes on my computer. It always happens during load (gaming). The freeze consists of everything literally freezing exactly in place and nothing else happening. The fans keep spinning as normal, pc keeps running. Nothing happens everything is just froozen. The 3 first times this happended i was able to just unplug the cable and then start up the PC again. But now the 4th time the pc will not start up again after I unplugged the cable. It tried to start for 10sec, red light on CPU all time (on mobo), then after 10 sec it shuts off and restarts the process. The PSU is tested and the computer does not work with another one. Unplugging GPU does not work. So my thoughts is that this has something to do with BIOS and maybe a corrupt socket firmware. I tried CMOS reset but it does absolutely nothing. I did a update using the Intel ME update tool somewhere around when this issue began, maybe it could be related? If anyone has any ideas or is experiencing anything similar I would really appreciate all help! Chassi: NR200P Mobo: B660-i ASUS rog strix RAM: kingston 2x16GB 4800MHz PSU: SFX 750W Cooler master CPU: intel i7 13700k GPU: ASUS ROG strix 3080ti Disc: SSD 980 Samsung Cooling: Water cooled Regards,

As mentioned in the title, I'm curious to know if FCLGA2011-3 Intel Xeon CPUs will fit in an LGA2011-3 socket. For example a Xeon E5-2699 v4, which Intel says fits the FCLGA2011-3 socket. But I heard some contradictory information on the compatibility with LGA2011-3 sockets. Thanks in advance ^^

I got a intel b250 motherboard from a friend that has a broken off vcc(power) pin. i tried to power it on and the fans start to spin, everything seems to work except any output whatsoever i had the idea to rip off one of the reserved pins but i dont know how to read the layout diagrams that i can foud on the internet. can someonne tell me which pin i can use?

I'm trying to find the USB 3, 20-pin standard socket and plug on digikey, mouser, or anywhere else for that matter. I'm creating a PCB. What's the standard called for this connector type? Any direction would be greatly appreciated. I think I'm on the right path for the socket which I need to be THT, but I'm really having trouble finding the plug with the key. I'd prefer the plug to be crimp terminals for simplicity purposes with a diy harness assembly, but could go ribbon cable assembly if that's the only option. Promising sockets I've found so far are the 98414-G06-20ULF or LTMM-110-02-L-D. Really just need a mate to the socket connectors at this point.

Hello everybody :) Last week I bought Asus b450m tuf gaming pro II and immediately after picking the mobo noticed some rattle coming from the socket area. Upon further inspection the rattle is coming from the locking lever ... it is moving side to side quite a bit and it is very loose in both positions (up and down) when there is no CPU in it. When you install CPU rattle and movement is gone. I am used to Foxconn sockets where the lever is sturdy and super nice to move even when there is no CPU installed. This socket is Lotes and its my first time seeing such brand. Is this normal with Lotes sockets?

as i recently got my first tower, i quickly found that the cooler was defective. however, upon ordering a replacement per my intel I7-7700's LGA 1151 socket, i realized that the cooler did not fit. i re-checked the listing, and it had multiple sockets listed in the title- LGA 1151/1150/1155/1156 & AMD AM4, which seemed strange to me. could it be these sockets all have the same size mounting bracket, or that the seller sent me the wrong one? how can i be sure of the size of cooler needed for my computer? any help would be great.

so i wanted to know if my motherboard supports am3+, since its pretty trashy (2.8ghz) and i adjusted it to 3.4ghz i heard that you can upgrade your bios to support am3+ cpu's from online and i wanted to know if its true. my motherboard is a 740gm-p21 ver 1.0 and i have an athlon ii x2 240

Since its a Zen3 chip with just more cache should it not work with AM4?

Hey Folks, what socket is that which pops out of bench, its really cool !! can anyone be kind enough to name it and a link for that product !! p.s. Thank You

Hello, When my 2nd repast on my 1080ti Aorus Extrem. One of the wires of a connector is broken when unplugging and another connector during handling. To repair, i need the reference of Pin & Socket Connectors for 1080ti Aorus Extrem I cannot find the information on the gpu, manual or other. Thank you

Are there already some CPU coolers/blocks for the new sWRX8 socket? Being it air or water cooled?

Hey all. Just tried to install my BRAND NEW AMD Ryzen 9 5900X CPU (100% NO BENT PINS) into an Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming motherboard (BRAND NEW, SOCKET LOOKED CLEAN). Let me just say this is not my first time installing AMD CPU's. What my installation procedure looked like: grounded myself lifted retention arm FULLY inspected socket inspected CPU pins matched the golden triangles carefully "dropped" the CPU into the socket (NO FORCE) lowered the retention arm FULLY (it required NO FORCE, as usual) The CPU effortlessly dropped into the socket, but I noticed it did not sit flush at one corner, with the retention arm up (just inserted) OR down (fully installed). NOTE: THE FIRST IMAGE PROVIDED IS NOT MINE, AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR REFERENCE: Now I didn't take a picture of the issue for the first time, but this image should give you a rough idea of how it looked. Please keep in mind IT WAS NOT THIS BAD, but when checking if the CPU was seated correctly, I COULD actually see a bit of a reflection from the golden pins in the same corner as depicted in the picture bellow - basically the CPU was lifting at one corner, which is not normal. I then proceeded to lift the retention arm fully, thus releasing the CPU. I carefully took it out, inspected the pins (NO BENT PINS IN ALL CASES) and tried to continue with the installation two more times. Yes, the socket lever was all the way up before inserting the CPU. In all of the cases the CPU never sat flush with the socket at the same corner. Because I then became quite disappointed and frustrated with the progress of the build, I decided to just very lightly hold the CPU down on opposite corners, while lowering the retention arm. Let me say I realise that this should not be done (I know it's a ZIF socket), however this is the only solution that seemed to have worked. THE IMAGES BELLOW SHOW THE ACTUAL STATUS OF THE COMPONENTS DESCRIBED IN THIS POST DURING MY LAST ATTEMPT: It is a bit hard to see, but the right corner is still slightly lifted, just not as much as before... Again - before I could actually see just a tiny bit of the gold, from the pins. What am I missing? I'd truly appreciate your help.. Thank you all for taking your time!

Hey Guys, I'm from Germany and sorry for my English :d I have an ""old"" Laptop (bought by my sister in 2014) and well... He's not the fastest anymore with an Intel PLCSF8 Type 2 (Socket G2) Mainboard with a Pentium B970 (2 Cores, 2 Threads, max. 2.20Ghz). Furthermore it has 8GB DDR3 1333 MHz memory pared with 450Gb 5400 rpm HDD from Toshiba. It is very good for school "things" and watching YouTube, but loading times are awful and both hinges are literally broken, that's why I have an good external monitor For Gaming I have an Xbox One X. I want to upgrade the processor, storage, ram (more MHz) and make it an desktop PC. I have 2 major problems. First, I don't know if the price for the upgrades is "good" or if I should just buy a new pc. Second I have an problem with the cpu. It's from sandy bridge and has a tdp of 35 Watts. I could upgrade to a much better cpu on socket G2, but it would be from ivy bridge and has a tdp of 55 Watts. It would be such a good upgrade, but I don't know if my Mainboard can handle the tdp and my bios the new architecture. All upgrades would cost about 110€ (50€-60€ Cpu, 30€ better Memory, 25€ SSD). My Laptop would sell for these exect price on ebay, I tried it. Do you think that is a good investment or should I sell? And if it is, would the processor fit in? Thank you all for your help

TL:DR I think my AM4 CPU socket might be broken. Please check the attachments to see pictures and a short video, and let me know if you think this is normal behavior for these sockets, or if you think it's broken. I've been helping a friend of mine build a PC. Last night we got it all together, but it wouldn't POST. Long story short and many hours of troubleshooting later, I ended up taking it all apart today down to the barebones. Motherboard, CPU, 1 stick of RAM, PSU plugged in with just the 24Pin and both CPU power cables for good measure, nothing else is plugged in. When I power on the PC, I don't get anything displayed on the screen. Doesn't POST or get to the BIOS. All I get is a diagnostic light on the side of the board labelled "CPU", and it means exactly what you'd think it means (Motherboard manual says the code means CPU is not detected.) If I plug an HDMI into the motherboard it goes to the "VGA" light instead, and the manual says this means a CPU device isn't detected. Since it's onboard graphics, that'd essentially mean the same thing as the CPU code in this case. I decided to try and take out the CPU and check for bent pins or any damage to the socket. When I went to lift the CPU retention arm, I noticed it felt "stuck" about 90% of the way up, and the CPU wasn't moving at all like they usually do when you lift the arm. Normally you lift the arm, and the CPU slowly moves / follows in the direction of the arm as the plastic socket slides backwards with it, but the socket in my motherboard doesn't move nearly at all when I do this. Once I get 90% of the way up, the retention arm requires a large amount of force to move further, and then it eventually lurches with a very loud POP noise. I've attached a video showing this. Worrying the socket had somehow damaged the CPU, I removed it and checked for bent pins but luckily found none. This popping didn't damage the CPU at all, so I put it back in and very gently lowered the arm. Going down, the arm requires noticeably less force than other AM4 sockets I've installed CPUs into in the past, and it makes another strange (quieter) scratching noise while lowered. I also noticed that the socket doesn't seem to close all the way. If you check the pictures I've attached, I highlight what the socket looks like both open and closed, with a CPU installed and without. You can see the socket seems to move downwards and close completely with no CPU installed, but with one installed the socket doesn't seem to close all the way and there is a noticeable lip of plastic hanging out that is usually covered when the socket is closed without a CPU. I've also attached a picture "Closed Difference.png" that shows this lip more clearly. I've tried taking the CPU out and putting it back in upwards of 15 times now, each time trying to gently push the plastic socket in different directions with my finger, thinking the issue is the CPU pins aren't making contact with the pads under the socket cover. Each time I get the same issue, where it doesn't POST and the red CPU (sometimes VGA when an HDMI is plugged in) light turns on the board. I've also left the PC powered on for up to 10 minutes with the heatsink on it, then quickly powered down and removed the heatsink. It's basically stone cold, as if the CPU wasn't kicking out any heat at all because it's not powered. I'm hoping someone else who has an AM4 board can lend their insight here and let me know if they have the same experience with this socket, or if after all these hours of troubleshooting I'm just going crazy and seeing problems where there are none and my issue actually lies somewhere else. For the sake of following the posting rules, I'll post the specs and troubleshooting steps I've followed below. Any input at all would be appreciated. Thank you! SPECS: CPU: Ryzen 7 3800X RAM: 32GB GSkill Ripjaws V DDR4 3200MHz Mobo: MSI MPG AM4 x570 GAMING PLUS PSU: Corsair RM750x GPU: None (yet) Troubleshooting: - Unplugged / replugged all power cables from both motherboard and PSU side - Tried swapping to a spare PSU, and obviously used the proper cables for the different PSU - Tried spare RAM (1 stick DDR4) and also tried ALL sticks in ALL DIMM slots - Plugged in discrete GPU to bypass any potential onboard graphics issues. Same result. - Removed everything from the case, and unplugged anything unnecessary to reach POST. Only thing plugged in was motherboard, CPU, 1 stick RAM, 24PIN ATX and the CPU power cables. Same result, no POST. - Checked CPU for bent / broken pins - Used flashlight to check socket pads for damage, I can see gold in each hole. - Checked board for signs of damage (leaking / expanded caps, residue, etc) looks clean and new. 1452813811_BrokenSocket.mp4

Greeting, community II was planning to upgade my CPU to Ryzen 7 3800x cause I often do video editing/rendering besides my everyday work. I helped to build my friend's editing PC with 3800x and it's a beast. I have an ASRock b450m Steel Legend mATX motherboard (with latest bios installed) and I wanted ask if someone can give me some advice on should I use it with my existing MB or invest some additional cash into an x470 MB? I've searched the web and it seems like for basic everyday use my MB can handle 3800X ok. I might limit my CPU in terms of some features, but the performance should be fine for now. Should I stick to my MB or save some cash and eventually buy a newer x470 board? If there will be no strong limitations to CPU performance I can always upgrade the MB later. Also, I'm now using Gammaxx 400 to cool my Ryzen 7 1700, but my overclocking attempts with 1700 were quite painful. Also, the MB seems to have some problems when trying to OC the memory in 1 and 3 slots (which is mentioned in MB manual as well). Will my Gammaxx 400 be able to handle 3800x? Is my MB sufficient enough so I can stick with only CPU upgrade for now?

Hey there! So i was trying to clean the cpu cooler and a drop of water fell from the ceiling. It touched the aluminum dissipator and splashed like two smaller drops on the side of the am4 socket (photo), it was still with the aluminum dissipator attached so no drops touched directly on the pins. I tried to dry it all with little pieces of napkin, absorving the drops until i didn't see more water. Tried putting it in the gap between the socket and the board too. Is there any risk if i try to turn it on? Could the water have touched the pins if it got into that small gap?

So on their website, Intel states that the i5-12400F processor supports the FCLGA1700 socket. Now I havent found any motherboards of this kind, only LGA1700. Are there the same? If not, what does the "FC" stand for? TIA

So I was gonna hand down my old CPU, RAM and Mobo to my relative's, while building their new rig, I must have messed up the placing of the CPU (But I was sure it went in smoothly), because after finishing everything, upon trying to boot, it never posted; it only half booted. I decided to see if it was a thermal paste issue, I check, CPU is slightly bent on both sides, and lots of bent pins on socket. It would boot then shutdown at first (mobo leds would light up), then being an idiot, I tried putting it again and it's completely dead . I wanna know if the CPU is still ok, until I get another LGA1511 board to test it on ,I won't know. Only got visual aids.

Looking for a list, or making a list of all amd sockets in order of release date, researching parts for budget builds. Thanks guys Daz

Hi ! And apology if this topic has already been treated in depth somewhere. I am currently putting together a computer that I plan to submerge in oil for an installation. I was told that some cpu had to be isolated with silicone from the oil. Would this config need to be isolated or is it already sealed in the socket somehow? Intel I5 7400 with socket H4 LGA 1151 (mainboard is acer aspire GX-781) I would be thankful for any hint on this :)

Hello o7, So i'm going to buy a 3900x , and I would like some advices about the motherboard. Knowing that the AM5 are going to be released in 2020/2021, should I buy MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge Wifi or MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max Knowing that the next gen will not be compatible with this socket, I thought about buying the B450 and with a bios update it can perorm well with the 3900x, and make some economies. Is it the right way to think ? Or I should buy the MPG X570 for better performances ? Thanks

Hi, I want to buy a Z87 motherboard and a i5-4670K to upgrade my FX-6100 wihitout spending much money. I found a motherboard on ebay for 20 bucks. It seems very decent but it as sold as defective, as the socket has some bend pins. I have pictures of the socket 1150 area. Can you tell me if this can me fixed by me or not? That would be very helpful. The pictures are linked down below. Thanks in advantage Pics:

I have found a place in the UK which has started preorders for the new RYZEN and just want to know if this would be a good build. -AMD Ryzen 7 Eight Core 1700X 3.80GHz (Socket AM4) Processor -Asus Prime B350-Plus AMD B350 (Socket AM4) DDR4 ATX Motherboard -Team Group Vulcan T-Force 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 PC4-19200C14 2400MHz Dual Channel Kit Total price = £587.87

I wasn't planning on it or anything because I know that it would require quite a bit more that just your run of the mill soldering iron, but i was wondering if anyone has successfully replaced an lga socket on a motherboard?

I just accidentally bent the pins on my new LGA1150 board. I will have an i5-4440 soon (I gave it to my friend and she never used it, so I am getting it back). The way I bent them was with the cover that is supposed to prevent pin damage. I wa trying to put it back on and it slipped. How can I know I fixed the pins properly? Will I just have to try the CPU when I can? They look alright now.