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In my opinion, this video has one extremely misleading section. It's when the ghosting is demonstrated and shown in photographs, but there seemed to be no testing of other overdrive modes or even letting the viewer know which overdrive mode the monitor was currently in. For buyers in the market for an extreme performance monitor, not including this information could dissuade them from purchasing this monitor where it's possible that a simple settings change could have improved ghosting significantly. This video should be taken down and corrected ASAP.

Like every night of gaming i turn off the pc, but this this time I remove the power cable from the socket because i needed it to charge my phone. So the pc stay with no power all night. Next morning i plug it in nothing happens, i unplug the cable turn off the psu switch and replug and turn on the psu and it turns on for 1 sencond and shuts off and it goes into this loop of turning on and off. Tried diffrent power cables Tried removing the ram Tried removing the cpu power cavle and the 24 pin one Tried holding the power button for 20 secs while no power cable on Tried diffrent sockets and outlets And now after trying all of the above, the pc wont turn on or go into the same on and off loop Update : psu was fine turned out to be a Bois failure. repair shop managed to get the bois working again

As I was connecting my audio mixer (powered off but connected to a different outlet) to my USB audio interface with 1/4" audio cables, one of the cables zapped me (more than regular static electricity but less than wall), burnt out the audio interface, and the USB port it was plugged into on my MoBo is no longer functional. All other ports still work. Is it safe to keep using? My PC stayed on the whole time, and displayed no errors. MoBo in question is a fairly new Rog Strix B550-A. I'm also confused why this happened, as it's a setup I've used before. USB interface, PC, and speakers were all powered on at the time. I figured it would be enough that the mixer was powered off.

Hello Linus community. I have a situation and need to know how to proceed. 1st, the background. I was getting the blue screen of death randomly yesterday, then after it rebooted the system would hang at loading the highpoint rocketraid card. So manually reboot and it worked, onto windows we went. But then at random intervals later bluescreen again. And again hanging at highpoint rocketraid card. After mucking around trying to fix it (driver updates ect...) to no avail, I just left the system running and went to sleep. Next morning, BOOM, the smell of fried circuitry. But alas, system was in windows happy and snappy but no rocketraid card detected at all. Now until I had opened the case and seen the damaged I didn't know what I had smelt was burned circuitry, so I had the system running for a good few hours before I decided to look inside to find the culprit, and holly heck it did some damage. (check photos here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11mT3JOGVim74PC6FqKNY_Pb8kKylNr_h?usp=sharing or attached) Now to my question. I know that the system will boot into windows and run, it was doing that for several hours al be it on idle. But I feel like I've just dodged a burnt down house and that my mind and gut is telling me "don't you dare plug that system back in until you've replaced the motherboard!" I'm going to lean on your experience here because this has never happened to me before. Do I plug it back in and see how it goes, or replace the motherboard before I even consider plugging it back in. Or are there even other options like disabling the damaged PCIE lane to mitigate any risks so I can carry on using the rig. Your thoughts please and thanks

Problem description laptop: Dell 15 Inspiron Gaming edition 7567 model: P65F Hey guys, My laptop Suddenly went off during gaming and wont turn on at all now, Whenever i plug the charger , the charger light goes off, i have tried removing the battery, harddrives and memory cards just to see if i can turn it on . But i guess there is a short circuit somewhere. Please Connect me with a Certified and Trusted repair shop who could fix it for me in the usa, Preferably in Miami. Im from Suriname and because i dont know any shops im posting here for help. Hoping on your kind and quick responses, Thanks. Best regards, Akshay Merhai

I found a super old record player in our basement and I'm trying to fix it. Everytime I turn on the switch it spins a few millimeters and then stops, when I check the fuse it's blown. I've replaced some leaky caps but it still doesn't work, before I delve any deeper into the electronics I wanted to check if the transformer isn't faulty. The transformer is a 9WN 667 07. I live in Europe if that matters. Power goes (through a fuse and a switch) straight to the top. The resistance between the pins are as follows (I did scratch the surface of the solders so the resistance should be measured properly): 1 - 2 - 33Ω 1 - 3,4,5 - 100-200Ω flashes but then it shows infinite (making the tolerance higher on my multimeter didn't show anything at all) 2 - 3,4,5 - same thing 3 - 4 - 3Ω 3 - 5 - 4,6Ω 4 - 5 - 3Ω Are these numbers something that I could expect from a transformer?

Hello! I will start off with context. I am 21 years old (yes this will be important) and I recently watched this short circuit below. When I was younger I had my grandpa's old gameboy with one game I played on, I think it was a mario game of some sort but the screen was so washed out and used up it was hard to tell. I honestly need to find that thing and fix it, the screen quit. It was the first real time I played video games and took a interest in technology, now I am approaching completion of a degree in computer science. After watching this video this systems seems amazing to me but I have so many questions. Where can I find games for it? What games are good? After going to the product page for this thing, I saw its 200 dollars, which is a lot of money. Will I then need to buy games after that? Is this thing even worth buying? Does anyone know if this is a reliable brand or is there another brand that is better? Thank you in advance for any advice or guidance. Also apologies if this is in the wrong area.

Dear Linus Community I want to share the problem that I had and how I solved it. The reason why I'm doing it is because it was relatively tricky to diagnose and because just replacing some networking component does mask it so you may think that some equipment is faulty while it may very well be just fine (also the problem may present itself again in the future if misdiagnosed and misfixed). Background Story (you can safely skip this paragraph) I had a 10/100 network at home and after watching Linus videos about upgrading to 10Gb I decided to create a roadmap to slowly upgrade my network to 10Gb, my backup solution, and my security system. Thus I started the journey by replacing Cat5 and telephone cables with Cat6a shielded cables inside the walls and Cat6a sockets (yes I was running ethernet on 4 wires telephone cables). Then I replaced my 10 and 10/100 switches with 1Gb switches (10Gb is still too expensive for the amount of components that I am replacing). Then I replaced my NAS for a more performing one. And finally I started revamping my security system to have something well integrated with cameras on a separate subnet like the video from Level1tech. It was a this point that I started shuffling components around to place them in a better position and replacing long cat5 patch cables with homemade cat6a ones. While testing the new cables all kind of weird things started to happen. Symptoms of the problem All the equipments seemed to work just fine with industrial cables but not with the DIY ones. It took a long time to establish a link speed and IP and finally the link was 100Mbit In some occasions it would grab a 1Gb link but then moving the cable a little caused the link to drop to 100Mbit or to become inactive The link in some occasions started to quickly shuffle between active/inactive indefinitely or by dropping to 10Mbit after a long time. It seemed to be very inconsistent with some computers and switches jumping to 1Gb for several test in a row just to drop to 100Mbit or to inactive after trying long enough. A cable would work just fine before passing it behind a bookshelf but then would drop to 100Mbit or not work at all once in position. Then the same cable would work again if pulled out but then it started misbehaving even when on the floor. Solution Basically after I excluded interference from the AC lines, errors in the way i made the cables, broken equipment of cables, I was pulling my airs off and almost resulted in buying additional industrial cables of the required length. But then almost randomly I started comparing visually industrial cables and DIY ones with old and new plugs. I noticed that there was a piece of the shield of the socked that was curiously aligned with the exposed ends of the DIY passthrough plug that I chopped off. It was at that point that came the idea. Maybe the cables of the plug were shorting on the shield of the socket. Thus I put a piece of Insulating tape on the exposed wires and now everything works flawlessly. I wanted to share this experience so that it may help other people around. If you youse pass through plugs you may not have a broken cable in your hand, it may just be a short circuit between the plug and the socket. Cheers and have a good day.

I built a pc two days ago and as soon as I plug the computer to the AC outlet, the PC powers on my guess is that the power button is shorted (even though I was very careful when soldering the PWR_BTN and GND wires to the button, indeed I used insulating tape between the solder joints) But perhaps there's a function in the OS that does that? Specs: generic case + PWR button that is also generic and seems to pertain to a different case (color scheme is different) i3 4160 1x8GB DDR3 1600 MHz H81M VG4 500 GB WD caviar blue 7200 RPM Cheap generic garbage PSU Windows 10 Pro 64-bit I barely changed windows settings, only to prevent discord from launching along with windows

My PSU is not connected to anything, I'm just testing if power goes to the PSU via the AC extension cord into the wall outlet. I have tried this using two different AC extension cords and on three different AC wall outlets. As I plug my black cord from my PSU to the AC extension cord I can hear a brief crackling noise. This noise happens with the PSU set to "I" or "0" I want to know if this is a normal noise when plugging in the PSU or a sign of something very wrong? I'm worried and don't want to connect the motherboard or other things can be damaged... PSU is Corsair RM Series 850 Watts thanks

I love that you guys took a look at some retro tech, especially stuff I grew up working with. My aunt is a (now retired) teacher at a private Lutheran school and she helped run their computer lab. We had a bunch of these iMacs when they were new and I remember helping her take them apart for troubleshooting and repairs. And now I keep a few on hand for fun. There's also a Low End Mac group on Facebook that's pretty active. If someone would like to join, we'd love to help you guys find an LCD screen that fits in here and get your project going. Just please don't gut this one, use an iMac that's already dead. But some error correction is in order here. Apple didn't use a CMOS or BIOS on those computers, that giant 1/2 AA battery (yes, it's actually called a "one half double A") was for the PRAM (parameter RAM) stored for their OpenFirmware. Yeah, OPEN FIRMWARE! You could boot into it and change settings directly if you knew how. Apple didn't want you booting these machines from USB, but if you're skilled with OpenFirmware, it could be done. There's actually some debate over which brand of batteries is decent enough to replace these in our aging machines. Next up, that CD drive is most definitely not SCSI. These computers don't use SCSI, not even externally. You can tell it's not SCSI because there's no jumpers or wheel to select an ID number. It's ATA (or PATA or IDE, whatever tickles your fancy) with a wider ribbon to carry some control signals and power, and then the narrow part below that is a normal width ATA cable for the hard drive. Apple System Profiler will show you a lot of good information about the hardware. While there were a few more that supported it, the last Mac to boot from internal SCSI (at least by default) was the Power Macintosh 9600/350. While the 9600 did run a PowerPC processor, it was older than the G3 in this iMac. And this wasn't even close to the last generation of PowerPC computers Apple put out. This was a model from about 2000, the iMac G4 and G5 were two newer generations that came out before the Intel transition to X86. Finally, also relating to the slot load CD, you can eject it by sticking a straightened paperclip into the right side. Those drives die with age, we have a few workarounds and repairs we've learned for them to keep them running. Now PLEASE come join us on LEM so we can help you with that mod!

Hi. So I recently received an RMA for my GPU which was defective and went to install it back into my system. Before this, the system had not been touched other than when I took out the GPU. On starting up, there was an on-off loop with it staying on for at least 8 seconds before shutting down and powering up and repeating the cycle. All fans and LEDs were running during the "on" periods of the loop. There was no display at all when plugged into my monitor via HDMI during the loops. Things I have tried: Draining power, reseating RAM, CMOS reset, turning on without GPU installed. I haven't taken everything out yet and would not like to do that if possible. However, I am suspecting a motherboard short circuit upon doing some research. This system is fairly new ( about two months old) and the parts were all brand new. Is there a high chance the motherboard is dead? Please advice, thanks. System specs as follows. i5-6500 @3.2GHz ZOTAC Geforce GTX 1060 3GB FSP HEXA 550+ PSU Gigabyte GA-H110M-DS2 Mobo

Thanks for coming to this post, here is the story of how my power supply (Cool Master RS-750-ACAA-E3) end up short circuited. I am now trying to find out if something else is damaged and why this happened in the first place.A friend gave me his old pc because he got himself a new one (old pc working ok at this moment, he only removed the HDD). I disassembled it to clean it thoroughly, taking photos of the connections to assemble it again. After assembling it with a new HDD, I proceeded to power it up (had it plugged on to a 500W power regulator) and try to turn on the pc. At this point I realise it doesn't turn on because I accidentally connected the power button on the reset pins on the mobo and the reset button on the power pins. After correcting that mistake, I proceed to turn on the pc and it does it normally for 3-5 sec and after that my power supply made sounds like fireworks (at first I though I left a screw on a fan) and the pc shut down. At this point I realized that when I changed the power and reset button pins, I accidentally left unplugged the power cables of my graphics card. I proceed to unplug completely my power supply and try it with no load, what happens is that my power regulator shuts down the supply as soon as I power up the power supply (the power regulator disconnects the power supply, this helps me saving the need of replacing the fuse of the power supply for every test). For this reason I confirm my power supply is short circuited.Questions: >¿What could possibly made my power supply be damaged this way? My two main suspects are: 1. graphics card not powered but connected to mobo tried to pull power from mobo 2. dust inside the power supply created a short circuit (saddly the power supply was the only component I didnt cleaned) >¿Is it possible other components have suffered permanent damage also?¿If so, how can I test it? PC parts: >Power Supply: Cool Master RS-750-ACAA-E3 >Processor: Intel i7-950 >Motherboard: GIGABYTE EX 58 UD3R S/R X58 >RAM: CORSAIR 4GB DDR3 VENGEANCE x3 (total: 12GB) >Graphics Card: SAPPHIRE RADEON HD 6970 2GB

My Sony NEX 6 flash shoots out sparks when using the flash. Any fix?

Help me to fix my pc, i cant power my Pc cause my Avr/Ups Exploded for some reason, so i tried to plug the Power Connector on Outlets And everytime i Plug it in it sparks like a Short Circuit, I still didnt try to power my pc because im afraid if that can cause fire. Why do my Power Connectors Sparks or Blow? It looks normal for me, and is there a safer way to power my Pc? 2 Avr exploded so far, so im not gonna buy another Avr.. Whats Wrong? Please Help

Hey Guys! My Laptop an ASUS X550DP short circuited last march, after the short circuit all of my USB ports are dead. I know their dead since whenever I try to plug in a USB stick the light that illuminates the power button turns off, I dont know why but I think there might be a power draw problem or they are completely dead. I've already talked to the support at Newegg, got it sent for repairs they replaced my hard drive (but they really didnt). I talked to Asus and they said they'd charge me $400 bucks to repair it. Now its time to take matters into my own hands. On Saturday I opened my laptop up and tried to see if anything was burnt on my MB, but nothing seemed out of place or smelt burnt. I dont know what to do since the 2 USB 3.0's are part fo the main motherboard but the USB 2.0 part isn't. I don't know if it would be possible to replace that just so i can get 1 usb port working. IF anyone knows of anything that i might be able to do to fix them without replacement or knows of a website that I could buy a replacement USB 2/0 Hub it would be greatly Appreciated. Thanks Jon

Hi all, I started buying parts for my first PC build last december, with the PSU and some ram being one of the first parts. It wasn't until January/February that I actually built my system, and it has been running great ever since. The PSU was a EVGA G2 750W SuperNova. However last thursday I was casually watching some YouTube videos when one of the circuit breakers in my house suddenly flipped. Since I had in the same room as my PC also the TV, DVD player, Fiber modem etc. (on a different wall socket and power board) I tried to turn things back on one at a time to see what caused it, or if it was just a power surge or something. When I turned power back onto the PC (not even hitting the power button, but just having PSU plugged in and switch to ON) - the breaker flipped again. I removed the PSU from the PC and plugged only the PSU into a wall socket in the garage, and used a circuit bridge that came with the PSU (completes the circuit making the PSU think the power button of PC has been pushed), and again it immediately flipped the breaker. I also had an old circuit tester and measuring in Ω across the PSU power plug Ω shows 0 (as if circuit completed). So to me, it looks as if I just got an unlucky unit and its short ciruiting for whatever reason. Since it is still within 1 year of buying I am returning the unit to the reseller that I bought it from, I haven't made any contact with EVGA on this yet. But I am worried if the reseller should ship me a new PSU, and I plug it in only to find the system is no longer working due to MB, or GPU or anything else being damaged. Do you think this is likely or possible? I'm curious to know what could have caused this? Is it possible a power surge somehow damaged the PSU? It is on a power board with (supposedly) surge protection, and the PSU itself lists a bunch of protections on the specs page of EVGA website (including OVP, UVP, OCP, OPP and SCP) In my experience (which admittedly is more mechanical in nature than electrical), if something is going to fail due to faulty unit, it will usually fail in the first few hours, not 8 months down the track, but heh, I don't know much about electronics. I should note that the unit wasn't dusty (ok there is always a little) but the case I have has some good filters (Phanteks Evolv ATX TG) and it hasn't really had time to accumulate a lot of dust. Humidity and temperature should be well within reason - since its winter here we had heatpump on a fair bit which takes any humidity out of the air. Funny thing is I ran my old pc with some no-brand chinese PSU for years and years without a problem, and the highly rated EVGA unit didn't last a year

My PC is currently running with a G7 Power extreme 780w PSU, i bought it back when i was changing components to search for faults. Im thinking about upgrading to an ROG strix 1070 but im not sure whether i should trust the PSU. So far i have not had any problems and have had it for about 2 years but reviews say it usually dies within a year and cannot actually run anywhere near 780w. has anyone had any experiences with this psu or should i just immediatly upgrade to a corsair. if i should go corsair which psu should i go for? i will have i5 7600k @ 4.8ghz corsair h80i v2 Rog strix 1070 850 evo 250gb seagate barracuda 1tb creative 5.1 sound card tp link wireless card ihas124 optical drive.

I have a GTX1050Ti in my inventory that was given to me from a friend. I currently have a 960, so I want to use it to upgrade. However, there's one big problem: The card was previously short circuited. They brought it back to their seller and got a new card since they had warranty, and gave up the "broken" one to mine, so I'm hoping anyone in the community knows a way to fix a short circuited card. It'll SOMETIMES work and give output, but most of the time there's no signal from the card. Fans will spin though. I'm thinking it's the outputs that's been broken. And yes, I've tried all the sockets. Details on how it happened: My buddy plugged in his Nintendo Switch OUTPUT cable (the cable you'd plug into your TV) into the HDMI INPUT of the card. I'm assuming the two signals mixed and went kerplowey?

My friend shorted his pc with 5v battery on his usb data line Actually he don't know about PC he try to charge his phone battery with pc usb but he did a worest this is he charged his battery with usb gnd and green data line now his pc not turning on how can fix that please help me

Hello I just yesterday build a new computer. Everything was fine and I installed some nice games. While it was turned on I configured the rgb. Also I plugged in the rgb cables to the rgb headers on the motherboard. Then accidentally I plugged in a Rgb extension cable to a rgb header and the whole system shut down. I tried to start it but only fans were lighting up for 1milli sec. And then everything turned off. I fast unplugged everything and removed the gpu. Then plugged in the 24pin for board and 8pin cpu back and tried to start it. First it started for a mill sec and shut down a it did before but a second later it started working but smelled burned all over my room, so I immediately turned everything off and unplugged it. Now I need help. I saved the money for several years (I'm only 16years and live in Germany) My computer: Psu: 600W enermax Platimax DW Gpu: zotac amp extreme gtx 1080 Cpu: I5 8600k Msi z370 gaming pro carbon 500gb m2 NVME 1tb barracuda Seagate Aio: liqfusion 240mm Fans: 6x Enermax TB Rgb Ram: 4x 8gb Corsair LPX Case: 011 Dynamic by lian Li Please fast help !!!! ;((((

Recently my pc stopped sending any signal to my monitors. I tried to fix it and fiddled a bit with the graphics card since I thought it would be the issue. When I was connecting some cables one of these backplates thingies (look at the picture) under the graphics card fell off. I tried to put it in again but forgot to turn off the pc, so I accidentally hit the graphics card (msi gtx 1050 ti 4gt lp) and short-circuited it. There came a spark, the pc turned off and there came a loud beep. When I turned the pc on again I noticed the fans weren't spinning anymore. I tried rebooting a couple times but the fans didn't turn on again. I tried to type in my password - with nothing on the screen - and my keyboard effect changed from spectrum to rainbow flow (it always does that after you typed in the password). I tried reconnecting the cable, turning my monitor on and off and it worked! The graphics card was up and running. I took a look at Speccy and the graphics card was indeed working, but the fans weren't. The graphics card was getting hotter and hotter so I turned it off. My dad thinks it can get repaired but I'm not quite sure since I hit the backplate. (picture with about where I think I hit it) Please tell me if it can get repaired and possibly how. Thanks

About 2 weeks ago all the pieces for my first PC build were delivered, but after putting it all together found out the motherboard would only flash once upon powering on the PSU. After looking on the internet, I figured it must be a short circuit. I started disconnecting parts connected to the board one at a time to rule them out, but it was still flashing when only the board remained. I preformed the paper clip test on my PSU and it worked, so I thought it must be the board and RMA'd it. Today I received the replacement motherboard, but it is having the same exact issue. I'm now at the end of my computer hardware knowledge and can only guess it may be the PSU or I may need to hook up some sort of wires, but if anybody can help it would be greatly appreciated. Here are the parts of the computer: CPU Intel i7 9700k Motherboard Z390 Gigabyte Aorus Pro WiFi RAM G.Skill TridentZ 8GB 3000 GPU Gigabyte Aorus RTX 2080 Xtreme Storage HDD Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200rpm Model ST1000DM003 Storage SDD Sandisk 512GB Model SDSSDH3 2.5" SSD Drive PSU Antec Edge 650W Cooling Fractal Celsius S36 OS Windows 10 Pro (I realize in the video the ram and CPU are still in, but I promise it behaves exactly the same when empty) Video.mp4

Hi ?, as you can see in the title, i was able to narrow down the problem. When i leave the CPU-pwr connectors unplugged then the maiboard is starting. But the way it starts isn't usual, cause the fans are spinning nonstop and i also can't power the PC off anymore. Except when i turn off the PSU. That's the build CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900x Motherboard: MSI MEG x570 ACE RAM: G.Skill TridentZ 4x8gb 3200Mhz GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 2080TI GAMING X TRIO Case: CoolerMaster Cosmos C700M Storage:OS(Samsung 960 EVO 250 GB) Data(Seagate SATA 2TB) PSU: 850 Watt be quiet! Straight Power 11 Modular 80+ Gold Displays: 4 different Displays Thanks!

So yeah, Today my front led panel of the case shortcircuited with the motherboard. I was playing Assetto Corsa when all of the sudden I heard popping/ spark noices comming from the front panel and smelled fire. Out of response I pulled out the PSU cable to forcefully discharge my system which I known is not the smartest thing to do. ? After a few seconds I noticed smoke forming inside of the case through the side window of the case. So I took it apart and disconnected the front panel and it's cables from my system and after a while I decided to try turning on my system again without the front panel attached to it. I was very reassured to see that my entire system booted up perfectly. I did however notice that the onboard LEDs where not responding, two of them kept on static colours and the other just refused to turn on at all. I am thinking that the onboard RGB header has blown but to be honest if that is all then I'm glad that it took the full blow. The case itself is currently openend without the front panel attached to it, I am planning to put it back on after the smell is gone and without the RGB cables attached since I don't see any harm in that. I am however concerned about the state of my motherboard, everything runs fine except the onboard RGB which seems reasonable. I am however afraid that my motherboard might damage more components from my system. So my question now is: Can a motherboard that has been exposed to a short circuit do further damage even though the source of the short circuit is no longer present. I honestly do not give a 'fish' about the RGB header not working, and the case can be replaced cheaply if that will be required. But if the motherboard will damage/kill more components in my system then it will be much more expensive to fix. Does anyone have experience with running a partially dead motherboard. I haven't run into any issues as of yet but the question will be how long will keep that way? Maybe someone can help me. SCPnnex