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Showing results for tags 'safety'.
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I'm currently going through a warranty request for my Fractal Design PSU that has a broken component. The Rep has asked me to intensionaly shove metal into the 24pin output on the PSU. Tech-tubers are always saying how much charge the capacitors store in a PSU even after being left powered off, so is this request safe or am I risking a big shock by doing this?
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- fractal design
- psu
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Hello to whoever may see this I've just finished building a budget PC for a friend. It's got an RTX 2060 and I5 10400f. To power it up, I repurposed an M RED 700w 80+ bronze PSU that I used in my own rig before upgrading. It used to power a 2070 super and Oc'd I5 10600K so I thought it would handle the new components just fine (and it does). The problem is that I lost or used all GPU cables from this specific PSU and I discovered that PSU cables are non standard ! (Thanks for that manufacturers). After checking the web for a while I couldn't find any cables that would fit into this PSU, so I resorted to using a double molex to 8 pin PCIE adapter. I read online that it is very much not advised, so I tried to do due diligence. I bought an decent quality adapter and checked the markings of the cables to ensure it, then I plugged the GPU into it. After stressing the card and checking the cable I found that it felt uncomfortably warm on the PSU side (The adapter's side stayed cool). Not wanting to give my friend a potential fire hasard I resolved to using two different molex's from two different 6 pin connectors on the PSU in an attempt of separating the power (and therefore heat) output on the cables. After stressing the card for a while again I felt the cables and they all stayed cool to the touch. I didn't notice any stutters, artifacts or performance drops and even undervolted the card for ecological reasons since it didn't seem to lose me any performance. I guess my question is, am I good ? Was I diligent enough or is it still a big risk ? I personally think it should be fine but I would like the input of more experienced builders on the matter since it's my first time using such an adapter. Thank you for reading and for any answer you may provide
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Hey, So I'm in a bit of a conundrum right now, to make a long story short I built my dream PC last year and now I'm facing an unexpected big move across the Atlantic a month from now. I really don't want to sell the expensive parts only to re-build after my move, and I don't really trust that nothing would break if I just ship the whole system to my new address, so my next best option is to take as much as possible out of the case, grab an extra suitcase and transport individual parts in the original boxes on the flight, and buy a new case to rebuild the system at my new location. My questions are, first of all, which parts would be safe to keep on the motherboard during transport? Right now I'm thinking to disconnect the GPU, RAM and CPU cooler, but keep CPU and M.2 drives installed. Do you think this would be safe assuming the motherboard is packed fairly tightly in it's original box? Secondly, just in general, has anyone else transported a PC like this in the past? Any particular problems or gripes you've ran into in that case? I realize this is a bit of a weird question with probably no clear answer, I'm just trying to gauge the risks to minimize potential damage to my parts as much as possible while also packing things as compact as possible. Any help would be much appreciated! For reference, this is the full build specs in question: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/QvwTRK
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So i just built my pc in the 3000d corsair case which didn't come with ssd mounts for the back of the case and i want to use some old velcro i have lying around is it safe?? , not gonna start a fire down the road or something or damage the other comonents some how?
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Greetings, I wanted to discuss a couple of things with you experts in this post and would like to have your opinions. 1. PSU and GPU Compatibility: I own a Corsair RM850e (2023 version, comes with a 12vhpwr cable) fully modular PSU which I have paired with my MSI RTX 3090 Suprim X. I have it plugged in and the system seems to work, I just wanted to understand something from the safety and stability point of view. The RM850e comes with only 4x points for CPU/PCIe (2 each) with 2x EPS cables (both of which are taken by my Z790-H Motherboard) and 1x 6+2 PCIe and 1x 6+2 with a pig-tail 6+2 connector, the 3090 however has 3x PCIe connector points. I have noticed some markers going online mentioning that it is best to not use a pig-tail connector on high power draw cards, and the 3090 is rated at 420w consumption. My question is, is the setup of this GPU with 2x dedicated and 1x pig-tail connections to the PSU safe enough to not catch fire? (I don't care much about getting every drop of performance out of it). If it is unsafe, what should be my steps forwards? Can I make this system work as it is? or do I need to undervolt the GPU? 2. DDR5 RAM Compatibility: I built the system up and did a Bench Test, which went well, however, during the BIOS update from v1202 to v1501 for the Asus ROG Strix Z790-H Gaming WiFi motherboard, the system did not post with the DRAM orange light solid. I flashed the other versions of the BIOS into the board, which sometimes worked, but not for long. I started troubleshooting and the system posted with 1 RAM stick removed from the 2. This lead me to a Reddit trail where the user mentioned that the RGB on the RAM stick was so much that it did not boot without the XMP enabled. So, upon trial of: removing one RAM stick > booting the PC > updating the BIOS > enabling the XMP > installing the other RAM stick, the system started working completely fine. The RAM here is G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32, 16x2, DDR5 6000. SPECS: Intel i7 14700k | Noctua NH-D15s | Asus Strix Z790-H Gaming WiFi | G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 | MSI RTX 3090 Suprim X 24G | Adata XPG Gammix S70 Blade 1+2TB | Corsair RM850e 2023 | Corsair iCUE 4000X Hope to have your expert views and recommendations on the above topics! Thank you.
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I have the following UPS: Cyber Power CP1500PFCLCDa https://www.cyberpower.com/global/en/product/sku/cp1500pfclcda I had it connected to voltage regulator, so pretty much: UPS -> Voltage Regulator -> Power Socket Is there anything wrong with that? In my apartment, power variations (power spikes?) are quite common for some reason, very frequent between 8 a.m. to around 5 p.m. then it goes back to normal. So I had connected my UPS to a Voltage Regulator for extra protection. But, if I were to connect my UPS directly to the Power Socket, could my UPS tank those power variations?
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- ups
- voltage regulator
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As someone with a mechanic mindset I have strong opinions about all the unnecessary ways certain devices are controlled in modern automobiles. Although Tony talks about these issues in the electric cars, similar arguments can be made for non-electric vehicles as well. Other things that where mechanically operated in the past like parking brakes and gear shifters have gone electric and controlled by computers, which have had issues causing people to get stranded or have an accident(There was an incident with new Jeeps). For the sake of safety, when do we draw line at replacing simple with complexity? We have so much good safety tech in cars now, but when it comes to stuff like this, when do we say enough is enough? Also, I've known about this for years, but people have the new car=better mindset.
- 3 replies
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- automotive technology
- safety
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PSU installation Help! (RM750X) Is this normal? Is it safe?
Tharoon posted a topic in Power Supplies
I am trying to install my new Corsair RM750X power supply and noticed some black stuff on the cables, is that normal? My old power supply doesn’t have any of that black gunk on it. Should I be concerned? Or is it fine? -
I was looking to buy DP 1.4 cables, and I saw the most popular are nylon braided, afaik nylon burns really well, are these cables safe, or how would they compare to usual ones in the fire safety aspect ?
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So I have Noctua NH-D15 and I have nzxt h510. When I close glass panel, the fan of the cooler touches the glass part. Is it alright or should I remove the panel?
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Hello, I am interested in buying a good cheap (under €120) dash camera for my car. I am not interested in many features and perfect image resolution. The only reason i need it is to record video front or back of the car in case of a crash when it is in the parking lot and the car is turned off. I have my eye on the Garmin Dash Cam Mini 2 but it's a little out of my budget because i have to buy the constant power adapter cable to use the parking mode. What do you recommend ?
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Hello! I just want to make a quick question: I have a HP ProLiant G6 server and I do not have a male to male GPU cable to connect my GTX 950 as from what i heard the connector might not be standardized(probably) on the PCB but I do have 2x LP4 to 6pin adapter, how safe would it be to keep it running? So far its doing a pretty good job. Running windows server 2019
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Hi All, Important Note: Everything listed is plugged into a powerboard that has a surge protector. What's plugged into the 8 socket powerboard: Computer, 3 monitors and a Standing/Sitting Desk. I want to flip my room around but I will have to use an extension cable to connect from the walls PowerPoint to the powerboard. Main Question: Is this safe to run a extension cable to a powerboard with all these things connected? I just don't want to break anything. Thanks in advance.
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- power
- powerboard
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So I have two TP-Link Routers C2300 (V1) (https://www.tp-link.com/ca/support/download/archer-c2300/v1/#Firmware) C5400 (V1) (https://www.tp-link.com/ca/support/download/archer-c5400/v1/) so I have multiple Questions on how to safely put these two together for a safe and more reliable network the features I want to use are the C2300’s HomeCare and Antivirus Programs and C5400’s Tri Band technology and MU-MIMO Technology (the V2 gets a firmware update to add homecare and the antivirus program, I’m not sure how safe it would be to update the V1’s firmware using a v2 firmware update) the antivirus is needed to protect our home network and devices Is it safe to use both routers while using the protection from the C2300 and the wireless capabilities of the C5400? which would be best to use as the main router and would it be safe to leave both in router mode or would one need to be moved to access point mode?(My thoughts are using the C2300 as the main Router To use its security, home care and QoS Services, turning the wireless bands off and using the C5400 in either router mode or access point mode and using its wireless bands and coverage around the house) is it safe to update the firmware of a v1 device with a V2 devices firmware update?(The services I want to use are located on the v2 firmware update) is it worth it to add a third party firmware?(if supported by TP-Link) How do you know which router you should use as your main router & which as your access point or secondary router?
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So my company send me a brand new PC with VMware installed to work from home. The IT Department said that I could download their special client and work from my personal PC. I prefer the second option, beacause I have only one desk and it's more practical to use my personal computer. Is it totally safe? Or could someone have access to my personal data? This client connects somehow my PC to the corporate PC that is 24/7 on in the company.
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First of all, sorry for the confusing title I wasn't quite sure what to put in there. Also, I hope this is the right place to put this it's been a while since I've used the forum. First off I have to say this is the first time I've attempted a repair like this so there might be a lot of newbie mistakes. So a long time ago my dog chewed through the wire on my PC 360 controller. I wish I had saved the old wire but I wasn't thinking. Fast forward a year and I've tried to fix it. I used an old DELL wireless adapter USB chord, chopped it open near the non USB end with a wire cutter and took a look. After inspecting both the controller's frayed wires and the USB chord they seemed to have the same set of wires. Green, Red, and Black (if I remember correctly, sorry it's been a while since I've done this). The wires were all of the same general size except the black wire, which was significantly smaller than the 360 controller's black wire. A little bit of electric tape and a some patience and I had it all sealed up and "repaired." Plugged it in and it seemed to work just fine, but I was worried about the difference in size between the black wires. So, my question is: is this safe to use? I'm not worried about the controller, I'm worried about my computer. I don't want it to short something out. This may be a very basic question to those who know what they're talking about, but as I said this is the first time I've messed with a repair like this. I've included a picture just in case it helps. Thanks in advance and sorry for any trouble I caused with my ignorance about forum stuff!
- 1 reply
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- 360 controller
- home fix
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Hello LTT community! I have some questions regarding build safety. The current rig I'm building will be my very first own "creation". Most PCs I've had in the past have been pre-build. I've been a PC enthusiast for almost two decades now. But the time has come to say goodbye to my current rig and get some much needed upgrades. I've done research and I've found the parts that I want for my system. Safety in building The only real worry is the part where I have to assemble everything. The worry is regards to static building up. Unfortunately I do not own one of those fancy modmats nor do I own an anti static wrist/ankle band. I don't really feel like spending money on those things, but I've seen in many build logs that people use some sort of glove. I assume these gloves have some sort of anti static properties as well. Any idea of what they're really called? I have seen similar gloves in one of my local hardware stores. The static building up is my only real worry. Other than that, I'm really looking forward to gain experience when it comes to computer building. If there is any other handy dandy tip you guys can teach me, I'm all ears. Let me know if you're interested in knowing what types of component I've chosen for this build.
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Hi I'm doing research on a new phone for a friend of mine, now there are a few specific requirements and I can't seem to figure it out... His maximum budget is €200. It needs to be available on Amazon.fr or Amazon.de. And finally, he is really concerned about his safety, so he wants the SAR (specific absorption rate) of his phone to be really good. 0.4 W/kg at the head or better. I can't seem to find a phone that meets these requirements and is still less or more a good phone for the price. Anyone wants to help looking? Thanks!! Red
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My parents have an old DirecTV set top box that has completely died. They want me to extract some of the shows that are recorded from it, so I want to take the HDD out and see what I find. However there is a warning on the back that says "Caution, risk of electric shock. Do not open". Should I actually refrain from cracking it open because of this, maybe the PSU internals are exposed or something? Should I let it sit and drain fully of power for a couple hours just in case? Or is it more of a BS warning to deter people from opening it?
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- settop box
- safety
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Someone tells me that if I keep my PC in an air conditioned room condensation will occur inside the PC and ruin the components. Is this true? Is there anyone here who run their computer in an air conditioned room? Is this safe?
- 18 replies
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- cooling
- overclocking
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So I'm just wondering, do you guys leave your PC's running in sleep mode or hybernate while your not using it or turn it off? Also, I've been testing the loop for 48 hours, all good so far but I have to mve the lower oart of the loop every time I drain it a little, is that going to cause a leak at some point?
- 13 replies
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- water cooling
- pc
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So I came across this deal https://stacksocial.com/sales/vpn-unlimited-lifetime-subscription , and I want to know if someone with more knowledge in the matter would recommend this over other options. Thx in advanced.
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Hey guys, I'm in need of a bit of help with a project. My friend has been setting up a business for the past few months and is now at the point of finding advertisement opportunities. The business: [Link removed] A fire supression system. Made for control boxes, engine rooms, server cabinets etc. Here's a youtube vid of the system itself. [snipped] So this system can, and indeed has been, installed in many places. What I am trying to do is figure out the best places to advertise, magazines, papers, websites, for server room installations. It really is a fantastic system. Most of the variable for the system can be tuned to each installation. The gas is completely inert, you can spray this stuff directly into a running system and it'll do NOTHING. In the event of a fire, the tubing will blow and the gas will put out any fire within seconds. At the moment the focus is on engines, turbines, and control boxes. But me being part of the PCMR I instantly realised the potential for server farm protection. With the active sectiction of the suppresion system being a tube no bigger than watercooling pipe, an entire cabinet can be protected. You also have the opportunity for signaling. So you can recieve text/email notifications if there is any problem, or the system has activated. As im sure you can understand this is a great thing for systme protection. The downtime of an entire cabinet can be minimized to just one single tray replacment. If anyone can help point me in the direction of where to advertise, it would be greatly appreciated.
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Can everyone who has ever lost a PC to power failure please put your story here and explain why or why not you now have or do not have a UPS. I need to explain to a friend how important they are but he does not understand the possibility of a power failure and the damage it will cause. Thank you everyone and I hope your PC is better protected now
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Hello All! I recently got into crypto mining and have loved every second of it. Currently, I am expanding my rig from 2 GPU to 4. Due to this I have come down with needing PCI-E Risers and have seen all the horror stories surrounding Sata To Molex so I just had some questions to make sure I am taking all the precautions I can to keep it safe. I ended up throwing the sata to molex cable out and got a three molex to power supply cable that is connected to the peripheral slot and it was not long enough so I got two molex to molex braided extenders. I was wondering if this was the best solution. I also got two USB 3.0 Extenders due to length issues. My question is are the molex extenders going to be safe and can I connect both of the molex extenders to the single cable that has 3 molex female that is directly connected to the psu?