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Hi. Im a hobbyist photographer and I have been shooting for over 20 years. I have a lot of files and currently I have everything stored on a windows storage spaces volume across 8 drives in a raid 1 configuration set at 8tb. I wouldn't dare use parity as I have read that it’s awful on storage spaces. the drives are varied capacities. I do have an old synology nas but it only has a max capacity of 8tb (1x8 or 2x4). The nas would need to be able to support two 8tb drives for me to use it the way I want but it does not support that. The software I use to manage my photos does not store previews like some programs do but instead renders thumbnails and previews on the fly as needed. The speed of this is very dependant on drive speed. Mine is currently struggling with this with the storage space hitting 100% whilst rendering these files but I tested it using files on an m.2 Nvme ssd and it was way better. I know storage spaces does have some speed problems but I read that from article done years ago. Not sure if they’ve improved it. So moving forward I’d like to try to speed things up but also simplify things. Should I get rid of the storage space and all the drives in it (which will leave me with a lot of perfectly good surplus drives) and replace with a new two bay nas thats capable of two 8tb or greater drives in it (I do have offsite backup). Or should I continue using storage spaces but maybe use SSDs instead of spinning drives? I could just not pool anything and have single drives that back up to my offsite drive but I find that messy. My software would keep track of the files and locations across the drives but I don’t think this is the best answer. Or do I just leave things the way they are now and just be patient. After all the files do load after a few seconds of waiting. I did a quick video.

Essentially I replaced it from a DOA and it seems to have issues with printing pure black on the photo paper, which in this case is glossy, I was wondering if anyone experienced here could help, the store suggested it to me as a better alternative (official retailer, not just some corner shop), the print speeds etc are all good, its an Ink tank too which is very good for economy but it just doesnt get black printed properly, its a tinted blue black rather than black-black (K), the home grade printer I returned was providing for some reason an absolute black with ritchness, this one does not and it bothers me since I gave essentially a difference to buy it worth double the initial printer's price. It is a bit frustrating because I generally get tired of returning products more than once. Now I only bought the more expensive one because it is a more sturdy build (quality of components, work hours endurance etc) and I had the best intentions but it feels like it backfired in this case unless I can somehow get this fixed. Maybe there is some setting I missed or perhaps some gimmick that is causing this. Thanks in advance.

On top of the “Photography and Videography” forum, there should be a sub-forum on top of that for video/photo editing. It should be called like “Photo and Video Editing.” It would be a great improvement for the photo/video editing community that is on this forum.

I have photos taken on an iphone 11 and they look good on the phone but as soon as you transfer them anywhere they look terrible. I transferred the images at original resolution photos in the heic format to google photos for sharing. After that the images look super oversaturated and they honestly look as blurry and grainy as photos from the original motorola razr but the resolution is still the same. I downloaded some of them to my computer which converted them to jpeg and made the colors much more accurate to the real setting (even moreso than the original photo when viewed over the phone), but the images are now very low quality. The resolution is still the same but it just looks terrible. Is there a special way I need to work with these photos? I am not familiar with the heic file format so I assume that google photos was handling it differently then it should be. Should I just transfer over cable (not working on a mac)? Also, is it always going to loose qualty when moving to a different format or is there something specific I need to do to prevent it from looking super compressed?

Summary Their 800+ videos were restored upon request. The deletion of the channel happened because of a deadline sent by mail to the unmanaged account of DigitalRev TV, which went unnoticed. DigitalRev TV Restores 800+ previously deleted videos. DigitalRev TV a Photography channel had previously deleted the entirety of its back catalog, containing more than 800 photography videos. Kai and Lok were the main hosts and cameramen respectively on DitialRev TV, and released several hundred videos during the 7 years they worked there. After all those years of work Kai left DigitalRev TV 7 years ago, and continued creating high quality photography content on YouTube, followed soon after by Lok. After the main hosts left the channel, DigitalRev TV saw a significant viewership decline, and uploads became increasingly infrequent. The last videos purposefully planned and made for the channel were published 4 years ago, when they uploaded a 3 part series of challenges in 2019, and 4 equipment reviews in 2018. As we can see, the overwhelming majority of the content found on the channel was made during those 7 years where Kai and Lok worked there. With their main cast not present anymore, it soon became clear that keeping the channel running wasn't financially viable, which was made worse by the decline in video uploads. This I assume, lead to the dissolution of the remaining team maintaining the channel. This ultimately was the cause of the channel deletion, the lack of response from the now no longer existing DigitalRevTV team resulted in a mixup with youtube, better explained by the DigitalRevTV team in the following fragment of its announcement via a Youtube Community Post: Upon questioning by @zoomnclick in youtube it was revealed by DigitalRev's founder and CEO Richard Yu, that even though the channel has been brought back, including all its 800+ videos, it will remain unmanaged and unmonitored. It turns out that when the videos were restored even private videos were set to public, however it was decided in the spirit of preserving history (in true data hoarder fashion) to leave them public. This is one of the few cases where lost media is officially restored, a huge win for data preservation, keeping a library of invaluable educational and entertaining photography content alive, for more people to see and get introduced to the hobby. Sources Original Channel Deletion: Sebastian, L. , Lafreniere, L. (2023) DigitalRev deleted videos on the YouTube channel. Youtube. Retrieved from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOQOQqxemOI Z3ppelinDude93 (2023) DigitalRev has deleted almost all of their content. Reddit. Retrieved from: https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/17jklpm/digitalrev_has_deleted_almost_all_of_their_content/ Channel Restoration: DigitalRevTV (2023) Youtube. Retrieved from: https://www.youtube.com/post/UgkxRaGvpuh0qi55KiWFBQAiYApzDL1rMEjP

I recently started concert photography, thus far anything photography related ive used my phone and lightroom mobile to edit but scrubbing through 2k+ photos has become quite a burden. Im looking for suggestions on a laptop that can handle lightroom/photoshop and maybe even some gaming (prefer to play destiny 2) price range is around $1k USD, ive been looking at the MSI katana 15(13650h + 4070) but it seems its lacking in the screen department in terms of editing. a desktop isnt out of the question either, but i would need to get a monitor.

My mom has a oldish canon rebel g and she has two lenses for it 1. Ef 35-80 (image 1&2) 2. A weirdly kind-of blurry ef 100-300 lens (image 3&4) they are both ef lenses. Onto the point. I am a amateur photographer looking for a good dslr body that could fit both (in a pinch 1) of the lenses. My budget is ~$120-150 (okay if a bit over). I was looking at using mpb. Any suggestions?

Title says it all, my current laptop (Eluktronics MAG-15) has served me well, but it's getting a bit outdated, and it's time for an upgrade. My main use case is Lightroom and Photoshop photo editing, and in the near future I will be editing 4k video. In terms of needs/wants: 1) Needs to run windows. Just never jived with MacOS personally. 2) 15-17 inch screen, with good brightness and color accuracy. Would prefer a non-oled model, as I still get wigged out about burn in 3) Full-size SD card slot. I dislike having to carry an adapter if at all possible. 4) Large battery, I know it won't last long during editing, but for when I'm doing other work or random browsing it would be nice not to be tethered to the wall. 5) Upgradeability. It would be nice to be able to change storage/ram or replace a dying battery. 6) Good speakers. Upward firing if possible, for when I don't need headphones, good audio would be nice. As far as budget goes: anything up to about $2500 USD would work, but if it goes slightly over it's not a deal breaker. Thanks a million in advance

Hi all! A small company in the Video Production industry is launching what they’re advertising to be the “world’s fastest SSD”. Many people are skeptical and I would love to know your thoughts. Is this a legitimate product or just “smoke”? Product page: https://tropiccolour.com/pages/osp-space-shuttle-ssd The company is “Tropic Colour”, which is backed by an entrepreneur named Jakob Owens. He owns a few other companies, all based around providing video production resources, and has somewhat of a polarizing reputation. These companies all rely on a very strong social media presence, and are making some very shocking claims on this new product. They’re giving it a fancy packaging and creating a bunch of hype around a product that doesn’t provide much in technical specifications. Tropic Colour have been very vocal on their Instagram marketing regarding this new SSD, and have been accused by many of just selling a NVMe SSD in a custom enclosure. Here are a few of their Instagram posts: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrCUEjXgvR8/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== https://www.instagram.com/reel/CryN3XvJWtu/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsJ5XGcgVXJ/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Hey yall, I'm wanting to snag a 34" or 38" Ultra wide. I'm mainly going g to be doing gaming, but I am doing some photoshop work aswell(new photographer here) so I'm wanting something with pretty good colors aswell. I'm open for most all options, just want it to be 34" or 38" other than that give me all of your opinions on the many options out there and things to research. Thanks yall Edit: I would also prefer curved options. Not required but its my preference

Changwon-Si, South Korea. Shot on Note 10 5G Stockton, CA, USA. Shot on S7

Hey all, So I'm a licensed drone pilot based in Ohio, and over the weekend I had the unfortunate situation of my main gear bag disappearing on me. Unfortunate, but we move on. While I wait for insurance to resolve everything, I wanted to take suggestions on possible gear substitutions or upgrades based on what I already have. For the record, I do a lot of land flyovers and real estate. What I lost: Panasonic GH5 Olympus 9-18mm lens Mavic 2 Pro (+most of the fly more kit) Amazon Basics Deluxe Camera Bag. What I currently have: BMPCC4k Sigma 18-55 lens (with Viltrox Speed Booster) Panasonic 25mm m4/3 lens Phantom 4 Pro v1 (+1 Battery and ND Filters) Insta360 One R (Split 360 with Mavic 2 mount) The gear I still have works but most of it is simply too large or cumbersome for travel, especially by plane. What would you do? What would you get?

Wassup LTT gentlemen and gentleladies, I own the AOC U2790VQ 4K monitor and would like to know if any of you own it as well. Does anyone know the best settings for color accuracy in this monitor? E.G the gamma (1-2-3), Luminance, Contras, DCR, Color Setup ETC.? As a side note, I am a photographer/Videographer and color accuracy is pretty important to me. Also, I know buying a calibration tool such as Spyder and Xrite is probably the best option, but for now I can't. Thank you!!

I have an older Samsung LED monitor. It was built for office use, so it has a terribly low brightness and horrible color accuracy. I want to buy myself a monitor that would be good for both photo editing and gaming, without breaking the bank. I don't do photography professionally, but I do print high quality photos. I want it to be 27+ inches, 1440p, IPS, and hopefully a high refresh rate, but I'm willing to sacrifice refresh rate. I was looking at photography specific monitors like Dell Ultrasharps and Asus ProArts, and then gaming specific monitors like the LG Ultragears, but I honestly don't know if there are better options for me. My budget is $500 USD or under, but I could be convinced to spend more. I would appreciate a cheaper option and a more expensive option, if you know of any.

Hi, I tried posting this below another person who had a similar question, but probably the post was too old to get an answer. So I'll try again with a new thread, hope this isn't agianst some rule somewhere I'm new to this forum. Sorry if it is! I haven't upgraded in quite sometime but end of year should bring some kind of config with a 3080/ 6800xt and new Ryzen to me. And with home office having taken over my life I'm looking for a good work / casual gaming monitor a bit before that upgrade. I'm a bit torn between choices of specs and looking for your opinions and experiences to decide on a model. -My work mainly covers CAD, 3D, Photoshop and InDesign (for print) so great colour accuracy would be nice. I also do some hobby photography. Not sure what that means translated to colour space coverage I thought it should not be much less than 100% of sRGB. -My gaming needs should be somewhere middle of the road, minimal 1440p, around 144Hz should be good / nice to have. I haven't been playing games for quite sometime but want to get back into it. Mostly single player probably. I think size should be around 27'' or larger but not huge. I'm not particularly looking for a ultrawide / widescreen although they are nice (at work we have something like the Samsung C34H890WGU, not sure if it is this exact model). At the moment I have a 1080p / 60Hz, 23inch at home. So I'm hovering a bit around different choices: - Should I go 4K? - Does anyone know if it's good value for money for my work use, any experiences would be appreciated. - I think for gaming I could live happily with 1440p for a few years and I'd probably get more from 144Hz than 4K / 60Hz. If I go for 4K / 60Hz is G-Sync / Freesync even an relevant feature? - Should I go after HDR? - Is my assumption right that it won't be worth chasing after it. As far as I have found out it is quite difficult to find a good bright HDR panel that doesn't add massively to the price. I think same as with the resolution I could wait the few years until my next upgrade. Most newer monitors seem to have some form of HDR capablity anyway. - How important is GTG response time? As I understand the 'How to choose a monitor' post, everything around 5ms should be fine for my needs. Any differing opinions? These are some of my candidates in no particular order, feel free to add other models. What are your experiences if you have one of these? Dell S2721DGF ASUS TUF VG27AQ BenQ PD2700U LG 27UK850-W Dell UltraSharp U2720Q Samsung C34H890WGU Gigabyte Aorus FI27Q-P I'd want to spend around 400 to max. 700 CHF (400- 800 USD), for that little extra feature that would round out the package I might be able to cough up more.

Budget (including currency): 3700 USD (including monitor, excluding other peripherals) Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Games: Anno 1800, CoD, LOL | Photo edditing: Ligntroom, Luminar, big backup for photos in RAID Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Hello internet strangers! I'm assembling my first custom build (which I intend to start doing by the beginning of 2021) and would like to share my thought process for both receiving improvements suggestions and helping whoever is also trying to define their own build. I would love to hear your thoughts on the parts I'm selecting - do you see any compatibility issue, any individual performance concern, anything you would rather buy a cheaper version with a similar result, ... I'll walk you through my rationale and needs, but if you want to jump straight ahead to the list itself, here it is. The complete part's list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JLdycT [ ~$3700] for PC + Monitor [ ~$1500] for Miscellaneous Rationale: - I want to future proof myself by buying good parts since I'm (a) building from scratch and (b) I'll build while I'll be in the US and after a few years I'll have to move - i.e. future hardware upgrades would be way costlier. - I'm a gamer (no shit Sherlock), meaning: I need a good graphics card; DRAMS with good speed and low CAS (low latency after all); A good CPU (love to play Anno). - I'm a photographer (it's a hobby that I take seriously) and I love to post-process heavy raw images later on, meaning: I need a good amount of memory space and also a proper backup (in raid) - cloud could get really expensive when you have 5TB+ ; I need a fair amount of DRAM memory, 32GB will set me back, but since I don't edit videos (usually), 128GB seems unnecessary; A good processor. Since I don't render digital images or 3d models I shouldn't need an $800+ threadripper CPU, though. Parts discussion: [$550] CPU: Since I need a combination of CPU performance and gaming, at a fair price, I decided to go with AMD. Given the latest news, I believe the 5900x should be available by January, and would future proof myself offering great performance, so that's my pick: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-9-5900x [$300] Motherboard: I need a motherboard with good power delivery (amount of phases and its quality) since I will be overclocking the 5900x and likely the DRAMs; Future-proofing is important to me, so I wanted PCIe gen 4 connections and an x570 chipset; I intend to use at least 6 SATA ports, so that's a boundary as well (well, not quite... I could expand my # of SATA with a PCI-e SATA adaptor, but that could constrain my RAID capabilities in addition to adding cost and complexity); I wanted at least one USB 3.2 gen 2 connector - Will make my life easier when transferring photos from my camera; I don't care for RGB, actually I rather not to have it (sorry RGB folks); I may be constrained on internet cables where I will be living, so I want a WIfi-capable MOBO - with good bandwidth to allow for proper gaming. With all that I decided to go with the one that is cheaper at the time among these two: - https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GcfFf7/asus-rog-crosshair-viii-hero-wi-fi-atx-am4-motherboard-rog-crosshair-viii-hero-wi-fi - https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CLkgXL/asus-rog-strix-x570-e-gaming-atx-am4-motherboard-rog-strix-x570-e-gaming [$150] CPU cooling: I'm using and overclocking a very strong CPU so a no-stock cooler is a must. Since the pc may eventually have to travel, I was inclined not to use an Air cooler (A NH-D15 would be quite heavy, putting tension on the MOBO in the travel). Also, the big and potent air coolers have a narrow RAM clearance (32mm for NH-D15) which would restrict me on the RAMs -- I'll be using 4 DRAMS, more on that later. So, for a non-RGB guy, looking for performance and price, and for an AIO water cooler, that's what I plan on going for: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JfVG3C/nzxt-kraken-x63-9817-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-rl-krx63-01 [$300] RAM: As I mentioned in my needs, I needed to go for 64GB+. Also, I wanted a good CAS and frequency (something over 3400 Mhz and less than 18CL). Also, I decided to go with 4 sticks rather than 2 for three reasons: Price; 4x16 usually outperforms 2x32 in gaming I don't believe I will need to add more memory at least in the next 7-8 years, so I'm fine with not having spare RAM slots Once again, I don't care for RGB and at that point I decided to go for a white-themed PC, so I decided to go with 2 sets of these 2x16 memories: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9y848d/crucial-ballistix-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-bl2k16g36c16u4w [$907, yes I know...] Storage: Again, I have two big needs: fast access storage and a huge capacity for backups. [$162] Fast access: I went for the EVO 970 1TB (for the operational system, games, and editing programs). I feel that the 980 is way overpriced for the additional performance, while the difference from the EVO970 to other 1TB NVMe options is bearable - Actually, I'm not 100% sure of it, I may change for a cheaper NVMe... what do you think? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam [$351] Daily usage storage (mainly my photos and files): I decided to get a mix of performance and cheap storage: 2x 2TB WD Blue SSDS in RAID 0 configuration - I know these WD blues do not have great speeds, but I think having them in RAID 0 and using for photo and other files should be enough. The total 4TB is a must though, I need ( 3TB+) https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Mtprxr/western-digital-0-25-2000000rpm-internal-hard-drive-wds200t2b0a [$392] Backup: I wanted to go for something with a virtual memory of 8TB+ and with RAID (not raid 0). Originally, I thought of having 3 HDDs in RAID 5, but my MOBO doesn't support the RAID 5 setup. Thus, I decided on a 4HDD Raid 10 setup (which is supported by the MOBO). With that, having 5400RPM HDDs is more than enough (remember, backup), since the RAID 10 would also speed them up. Even being in RAID I didn't want to go very cheap and compromise on reliability, so I decided to go with 4x 6TB WD Blue (in RAID 10), rather than the cheaper barracudas (which have a higher Annual Fail Rate) https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Z2HRsY/western-digital-blue-6-tb-35-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-wd60ezaz [$700] GPU: I think this one was a no-brainer for me. I want a very good GPU for gaming and future-proofing. However, I won't be playing on 45" 4K monitors, so I decided to go with the RTX 3080, and for aesthetics and benchmark results I chose the Founders edition: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RnDkcf/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3080-10-gb-founders-edition-video-card-9001g1332530000 [~$150] Case: I had a few preferences here: Mid-tower (Having a full tower could be annoying when moving in a couple of years); Good ventilation is a must, low noise levels are preferred; At least 4x 3.5" bays without having the HDD showing between the MOBO and front panel; White color preferred; USB 3.2 gen 2 in the front. With all of that, I decided to go with the https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bnzkcf/phanteks-eclipse-p600s-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec600pstg_wt01 I love its aesthetics, the fact that it supports 3x140mm fans in the front, 3x140 in the top, and 1x140 in the back, and checks my other boxes. It also performed very well in benchmarks for acoustics and cooling capabilities. In addition, love the fact that all my storage would be properly hidden behind the MOBO shield or beside the PSU. [$205] PSU: My bare minimum is a 750W due to the RTX3080, but that being said, I wanted to future proof myself and go two steps more (+200W) thinking of upgrading after ~5-6 years without having to change the PSU - these things last an eternity. Not to mention that having a few Watts more would allow me to overclock without a heavy conscience and would put me in a good point in the PSU efficiency curve. Also, I don't believe I'd ever been SLIing, so no need for humongous Wattages here...In addition to that, I went for strong brands and 80+ gold at least. Looking at the prices I chose https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nQJkcf/corsair-hx-platinum-1000w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020139-na which right now is $205 so I think it's a very good price. If its price increases, I would go for the 1200 W version which is $250. [$92] Case cooling: These were my guidelines: All 140mm fans (allow for better noise levels, which was one of the factors for picking the case); I wanted some white light coming from them in the upper-back part of the case; Having the sum of inflow CFMs being higher than the outflow CFMs sum. The case comes with 3x140mm non-led and non-PWM (3pin) fans. I intend to leave them all in the front, however, I saw that they are not very strong/efficient -- unfortunately, I found very little data for them. Would love if some could provide numbers on them. With that, I decided put the radiator (280mm) on the front in a push-pull config, while having one of the 140mm slots with only the stock fanThat would allow me to have 5 inlet fans in the front, but with a non-extraordinary individual performance. To balance it I decided to have 3x140mm in the rear/top of the case, having decided to go with the https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ycH48d/corsair-co-9050046-ww-970-cfm-140mm-fan-co-9050046-ww With that, I would have 3 strong outlet fans vs 5 average inlet fans, which certainly would give me a very good airflow in terms of displaced volume, and hopefully a positive pressure environment. In addition, it would complete my white but sober build. Also, I didn't want to put any outlet fans in the top-front position of the case since I believe it actually acts against the cooling efficiency (exhausting cool air before it refrigerates anything). [$300] Monitor: I'm still thinking a lot about this one. I'm already a little over budget so I didn't want to spend too much, that being said, my minimum specs from what I think would suit me (and I could be very wrong here, so please comment on that) are: 144Hz+ 2K+ 27"+ Low response time G-sync With all of that, I found this, which seems to be a very good cost-benefit: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LFRzK8/acer-xv272u-pbmiiprzx-270-2560x1440-144-hz-monitor-xv272u-pbmiiprzx In addition to all of these main parts, I also picked some smaller ones, but I don't think it's worth mentioning. For the full list of parts, please visit: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JLdycT My main open questions: - Should I save money on my main NVMe using a $100 Crucial P5 or so? - Do you have data on the Phanteks stock fans? - Is 27" too small for gaming? I also think that going too big would make me have to move my head a lot while gaming, so wouldn't be ideal, but maybe a 32" would be a better sweet-spot? Would you have any specific monitor suggestions around this price range? Comments are very well appreciated! Hope I also help someone with their thought process. Best

Check out my guide if your looking for a DSLR camera

Hey guys, I have an assignment for Uni where I'm trying to live stream several different cameras to the same laptop, through any way possible. The final objective is to have 4 cameras connected to the laptop, streaming real time images, that can then be grouped and recorded with OBS and live streamed on Twitch or other platforms. I have the proper usb and hdmi cables for the cameras but since my laptop only has 1hdmi port, I cannot connect all cameras at once. I looked into HDMI splitters and Switches but they don't do what I need them to. I'm looking for ways of achieving this that you could help me with, be it through hdmi, usb, or other ways I dont know of. Thank you,

Budget (including currency): $3500 Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Adobe, Any high end professional editor and gaming This is the current build I was looking at buying for my professional career for video and photography editing. Any tweaks in price or product that could be recommended. I'm not sure if I may be overpaying in some areas or if I should be spending more. Let me know. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CL28rD

I made the mistake of asking about this on reddit before I came here, but these forums get better results anyway Pictures of the problem attached, as well as explained in another (linked) post but, without further adieu: I bought a Fujifilm Instax Wide 210 camera from an ebay seller who said it worked, it got here, and wouldn't turn on due to corrosion in the battery compartment, we got it to turn on and took the attached pictures. The film used came with the camera (more than half used already(?)), I have more that I bought myself, but haven't opened it because I don't want to open good film for testing in a bad, unfixable camera. The green one is one that I accidentally exposed to the light when I took the cartridge out of the camera without thinking, but the other two were fine. I don't know if it means anything (any clues are good clues!), but the order they were taken was accidental exposure, kitchen, and dark outside photo There are two big problems that I've noticed and need fixing. One is that these two white dots keep showing up, in almost the same place every time even in the dark. And two is that there is a massive white splotch on the right side of two of the pictures, and it isn't closely pictured but in the kitchen photo there's a white outline around the left edge, but not in the dark one which, I remind was taken after that one So my question is: Is this a problem with the camera (likely) or the film (less likely imo)? Can this be fixed, if so how easily? Should I return it and try the ebay lottery again? even if none of those questions can be answered, an explanation would be appreciated. I just wanna shoot wide film D: also please excuse my poor photos, I'm not a professional, don't have a scanner, and phone auto focus sucks up close.

I've been wondering for a long time now if percentage figures for brightness distribution really matter when purchasing a laptop for professional photo editing. I read a review about a laptop I want to purchase (on NotebookCheck) and it says that it has a brightness distribution of 86% and a maximum brightness of ~400 nits, but I like it because it covers the sRGB spectrum and it is color accurate. Are these figures important, or something that I should worry about? Would I notice any issues during normal use and while editing photos? Does anyone have any experience with the effects of brightness uniformity on their monitor? I'm asking this so I can stop freaking out about the topic and I'd appreciate any answers. Thanks!

I will primarily use for photography and general productivity and movies Or any other recommendations for around £400 GBP (new or used)

Hello LTT Community, I'm curtently shopping for a laptop that i would like to replace my desktop for my photography work i would like it to be in the 15 hundred range programs i use are Photoshop, Lightroom, Illustrator. Laptops that i saw are ASUS ROG GL502VS-DB71 CUK MSI GE62VR Dell Inspiron i7559-5012GRY MSI GP62MVR Leopard Pro 4K-463 The reason why i need to replace my desktop is im starting to travel a lot more and i want to edit on the go. If you need more into let me know. Thank you.

One of my buddies is looking for a camera, he is tossing up between the Nikon D3400 and the Panasonic G7. He will be doing a lot of event photography as well as some video recording. With both cameras he will have to work off the stock kit lens provided. Preferably just provide information on which camera would be better for his use case. Feel free to ask any more questions. Thanks in advance

I was just asked to do the official head shots for a President of a large university. They said they wanted something "Unique, but not too out there". I am looking for some inspiration for this photo session and I'd like to see what your favorite head shot, it can be taken by a famous photographer or yourself! But, don't post Steve Jobs