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So I decided to try and troubleshoot the liquid cooled Apevia SuperAlien 500 watt power supply fan on my P5N32-SLI SE DELUX Asus cyberpower PC. Well don't think it went so well see pic below. Is the hardening of the liquid Normal? And any ideas on how I can maybe fix this if at all ps we're the bottom hose goes is still liquid it didn't harden I'm stumped

Trying to figure out the best CPU cooling option for Ryzen 5 5600x in my SFF build, using the Phanteks Evolv Shift 2 Air. Was going to use the H80i v2 but I’m having a hell of a time getting the tubes to fit. Also a bit concerned about longevity/performance with the pump mounted above rad (RE: Gamers Nexus’ now infamous video). Would like to keep the pc as quiet as reasonably possible... I don’t overclock heavily, mostly using for gaming (some CPU-intensive titles like Rust). I’m considering switching to a NZXT M22 for the inverted pump arrangement and easier fit, but not sure about performance of that AIO. (I also like that I can get one without shipping). looked at Corsair H5, but really have no idea about it’s performance, being such a weird format. Would also consider air coolers but it seems like anything that improves significantly on the stock AMD Wraith Stealth just won’t fit in the 85 mm clearance. The build: Case: Phanteks Evolv Shift Air 2 Mobo: Asus B550-I CPU: Ryzen 5 5600x VGA: Radeon RX 6900 XT PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Case fans: whatever I need to make it work, high static pressure. Bottom intake, rear exhaust CPU cooler: ???

Hello, I was playing games this morning and I noticed my EK pump was making more than normal noise, so I looked over at the LC system, that I flushed about 3 months ago with distilled and filled with EKs Solid Azure Blue cryo fuel, and noticed I have quite the issue. There seems to be some sort of growth on the tubing, and in the anti-vortex filter in the pump. I don't know what it is, it is not adhering to the nickel in the blocks, and only appears to be between the acetone and block materiel as it normally would be, but all the lines are coated. Should I replace lines and clean the rads? Am I able to clean the rads? Am I able to clean the lines?

I want to know, what Air Cooler, if any, is as good as the Enermax LIQMAX III 120 that I can readily buy from Newegg.com and that goes for cheaper. I have used this liquid cooler on budget builds and works great, but I'm looking for cheaper alternatives. To make the list as specific as possible, the Air Cooler has to be In Stock, shipped by Newegg.com, cost less than 47.99 pre-shipping costs and perform close to, as good or better than the Liquid Cooler mentioned. I'll be building a Budget PC with these parts: CPU: Intel Core i5-10400F Comet Lake 6-Core 2.9 GHz Motherboard: GIGABYTE B460 AORUS PRO AC RAM: OLOy WarHawk RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3600 CL18 Case: NZXT H510 White/Black Power Supply: Enermax MarbleBron 550W 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Semi-Modular SSD: Samsung 980 500GB M.2 NVMe

Hi fellow LTT forum members! Yesterday a very sad thing happened to me. My one month worth of income RTX 2080 died on my while computer was restarting after windows update. I have a suspect on the killer and I would love to hear if you agree or don't that it is possible. So the basic information: I have a fully water cooled system and almost next to it is my room heater (the temps were always fine, the air inlet was never above 30C I meassured it). So yesterday, I sat down, turned my computer and my roomheater on at the same time. The heater heats up pretty quickly and the original ambient temp. of my room was 15C. The computer started up properly, but then I met with everyones best friend: Windows update. It did a restart at the end and thats when the crime happened. My fan inlet temp was 26C at this moment. When the system tried to turn back on, I heard a click from my PSU. Then it turned on again, and an other click. It was off for at leadt 10 second both time. When it turned back on the third time, it remained on... and my debug LED on my x570 prime pro stayed on the white led, wich is labeled VGA. Could it be that my water temp was under my fan inlet temp, and condensation killed my graphics card? And if it, can I fix it somehow If I can't see any physical damage? I live in a country where right to repair is not a thing and becouse I disassembled the card, i don't have any warranty on it.

This is a major overhaul of my first build (from the days when an i7-5960X was a big deal) = = = = = = Current target build = = = = = = Revised December 7, 2020 CASE: InWin S-Box Titanium* MOBO: Asus ROG Strix TRX40-E CPU: AMD Threadripper 3970X CPU cooling: Cuplex Kryos NEXT sTRX4 FC, 360mm + 240mm radiators GPU: NVidia 3080 RAM: G. Skill Trident Z 256GB DDR4 3600 MHz Boot drive: Samsung 980 Pro 512GB Data drive: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB PSU: Seasonic Prime 1300 Platinum OS: Windows 10 Pro I'm open to comments in general, except for the case. It's a true one of a kind and I'm not about to give it up. I am particularly open to suggestions for the cooling loop. In my previous build I had a 360mm + 240mm radiator. That’s a lot to pack into a mid tower. I want a nice clean interior, so I may dispense with the 240mm for the rebuild. With 32 cores, I'm not too concerned about major overclocking! This is a work + play computer. I need the cores for optical design (ray trace) and Monte Carlo simulations. I will be starting with 64GB (recycled from the previous build). Ray trace design is very memory intensive and even 128GB isn't really enough for some simulations. I would welcome suggestions for good quality ECC RAM. I will be upgrading up to 256GB in the future. I'm looking for recommendations on the PSU. (Platinum+). With a single 3090 1000W should be sufficient, but if I go SLI then I will probably need 1200-1300W. ------------------------------- Updated 16 December 2020

I was looking inside to see what sizes the fans were to replace with nactua fans, and I noticed the tube for the AiO is bent on the top tube. Should this be a concern and if it is what can I do about it?

I know EK makes whole card water blocks for the RX 480 and so does Aqua Computer. I have been doing some research for MY card in particular, the ASUS ROG RX 470 STRIX O.C. 4gb card. What it looks like to me is that the EX would work on my card but the acrylic would have to be cut and shaped to fit closest to the video connections whereas the Aqua Computer version should drop right on my card as it does not extend all the way to the video connections. Has anyone out there dropped a whole card solution onto the STRIX RX 470? I know they use the same board as far as the reference cards but I think they will drop onto the STRIX.

Hey Everyone! My name is Dawson and thanks so much for checking out my build log! This will be my fourth build, second time liquid cooling, and first time using a form factor other than ATX. The goal of this build is to find a case that has excellent craftsmanship and subtle aesthetics (and will therefore need no exterior modification) and modify the interior to create a unique but clean look. That being said, let’s get on with the specs: Core Components: CPU – 6800k GPU – Gtx 1080 RAM – 32gb G.skill Ripjaws 4 2666mhz Mobo – Asus X99-M WS PSU – Corsair RM1000i Storage – Samsung 960 Evo 250gb, Intel 750 Series 400gb PCIE, 2x Samsung 850 EVO 250gb in RAID 0 Case – Phanteks Evolv Micro ATX Glass, Anthracite Grey Liquid Cooling: Blocks – EK Nickel Plexi for CPU, GPU, Intel SSD Pump – Alphacool VPP755 with EK X-Top Revo Plexi Radiators – EK SE240 and EK SE360 Fans – 5x Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro Reservoir – Singularity Computers Protium Medium – Polished Acrylic with Black rings Fittings – TBD, Bitspower 16mm of some colour most likely Fluid – TBD, leaning towards Mayhems X-1 Purple at this point Miscellaneous: Cables – Scratch-Built using Mainframe Customs Black Sleeving and Gosumodz Alliance Combs Lighting – TBD Control – Aquaero 6 PRO with Flow and Temp Sensors Nanoxia CoolForce Cable Combs Modification list: Create a custom, inverted motherboard tray from aluminum Create a custom rear case panel to clean up the aesthetics Modify the GPU bracket (for what I won’t say yet…) ;P Powder coat all interior parts matte black That’s all for now, but I’ll just leave the obligatory group photo below for now: Thanks for looking!

Hey guys, so I just installed the EVGA hybrid cooler for my gtx 1080 and am loving the drastic drop in temps. What I am not loving though, is the annoyingly loud fan. I used MSI Afterburner to set a custom fan curve and its bottoming out at 27% but its still fairly loud and annoying (I have my pc under my desk next to me for reference). So at this point I have the fan at its lowest rpm and its still too loud for me, does that mean I should probably just consider replacing the stock EVGA fan with an aftermarket one? or is there a way to further decrease the rpm so it wont be so loud. Personally, I think its just a crappy fan, so I'll probably end up replacing it. Any fan suggestions? Thanks

So I've been noticing over the last several months that my CPU temps have risen a bit. Previously I was using a H105. After a huge fiasco with swapping cases, I thought my H105 was faulty, so I got a H100i V2 with new 120mm Maglev fans. Well anyways with my h105 previously in prime 95 small FFTs i got around 80C, with SP120mm fans spinning at 1100RPM at most. But with my new H100i V2 with MagLev fans spinning at over 1500RPM, (same case and case fans too BTW), my temps are well above the 90C mark. Thermal paste I'm quite sure is spot on. It's the stock thermal paste right on the H100i V2, and I already know how to replace these AIOs as I changed out an H105 over 4 times last week. Specs: 4690K @ 4.5ghz 1.250v H100i V2 120mm maglev fans @ 1700RPM (when maxing out on synthetic.

Just a quick note post build regarding the liquid cooling solution I installed. I purchased and am running the Fractal Design Celsius S36. So far after a couple weeks of almost continuous operation with an AMD Ryzen 7 1700 currently at stock, I see no issues with it. Some quick notes. 1) The included screws allow for XSPC's 3mm rubber gaskets to be used between fan and radiator on one side without buying longer screws. I did this for vibration dampening, not because I expect increased airflow. 2) The fans are pretty much silent, but if you use the included fan hub attached to the radiator (and you'll need to buy fan cable extensions if not), keep in mind that the pump and all three fans will be running off the same header. You'll want a high-amperage header. 3) The pump is easy to adjust between PWM and Auto, and on Auto at high speed there is (in my opinion) an audible whine. The unfortunate truth about an integrated setup like that is that of course software tends to be easier to adjust. However, PWM mode seems to work fine if you have a motherboard that can manually adjust the output of that header. Of course, keep in mind that you are adjusting fans and pump all at the same time, and will have precious little range. 4) Mounting this to my motherboard seemed infinitely easier than the stock cooler. Maybe I'm biased. 5) Five year warranty, covers everything in the system if it leaks and you haven't opened the AIO. If you've opened the AIO to add more components, since you can with this one, the warranty will only cover the components of the actual AIO. 6) No RGB, no extra bling on the fans. It's simple, and relatively cheap. 7) Will OC the 1700 and see how it handles.

check out my custom built desk PC! It was all scratch built by me from 1/2" MDF. It has a fake floor for tubing and cabling, so nothing underneath, and the radiator fans have an air channel underneath that routes all the air behind the desk. 24 hour AIDA FPU and CPU stress test along with unigine heaven simultaneously , temps max out at 60C

Greetings people! This will be a somewhat "quick and dirty" build that I was hired to build for a fellow Dane. I have not been able to share any pictures until now, so lets get some work in progress, and other stuff running! First a little teaser of what will come of this thread! I am going trough my pictures and video as I type this, so updates will come as I get them edited. Since there is a great discussion about wolves in Denmark right now (They recently where spottet in the wild, and has been breeding) I thought it fitting to name the project accordingly, also since the color scheme is very alike. Specs: Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Glass Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS K5 Graphic card: Gigabyte 1080 TI CPU: Intel 7700K RAM: 32 gb Klevv Cras PSU: Corsair HX850I SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 512 gb Watercooling: Waterblocks: EK Radiators: EK Fittings: Bitspower Fluid: Mayhems Pastel dark grey A big thank you goes out to EK, Bitspower and Mayhems for sending some parts for this build! Lets get started! First update here will be a few pictures of the hardware used. Choice of card for this build was the gtx 1080 ti. Great performance, and looks, but an absolute pain to take apart. Motherboard is the Gigabyte AORUS K5. No need for a super high-end board as the build will most likely never be overclocked. I do like the built in lighting, but the motherboard REALLY lacks a temperature in port. Not too flashy, just good looking. I originally planned to just use a stand alone CPU block, but saw that EK had this great looking full cover block that fittet the board. I was quite nervous for how the light was going to work out, as many LED's put into stuff like that is super bright and not at all diffused. This one was luckily super good looking when turned on! Really digg the looks of this block! The GPU got a full cover EK acrylic block and a silver backplate. I recently started using the silver backplates instead of the black backplates, with no regrets. They can really spice up a build! I really like that they have removed the DVI connector from this card. Single slot just looks so much better. Matches the board quite well. And also teams up quite nicely with the motherboard mono block. The two colors I decided on trying out. In the end, the left darker grey won. The fluid is the new grey pastel from Mayhems. Planning the layout of the build. And a little special something I decided to make! More will come soon! Thank you for reading:)

Hey all, I've decided to try a scratch Build. I've been planning it for a while now and I've been able to start it. I wanted to make a simple, clean case that allows for easy liquid cooling integration. I've posted this on another forum and I wanted to see what kind of feed back and critiques I can get. Completed Pictures: Computer Components [CPU] - Intel i7-4960X [GPU] - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 [MB] - Asus Rampage IV Gene [RAM] - Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB [PSW] - Corsair RM1000 Liquid Cooling Components [RAD] - Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 280 [GPU Block] - Ek-FC970 GTX ACX – Nickle [Fittings] - Ek Black [Pump] - Aquacomputer D5 Pump (Ek Top) [Monitoring] - Aquacomputer aquaero This is the initial Model of the Case made in Solidworks Finished product after water cutting and bending Back Panel Rad Cover Motherboard + Tray, with acrylic cover Acrylic Sides for the Rad Box The Back Panel is installed with metal bars Side of the Rad Box Other side of the Rad box with the Acrylic Side Here you can see the front of the Rad Box Motherboard Tray installed Back of the Motherboard Here is the overview of the assembly Where the Rad, Pump, and PSU would go With the Acrylic Side Front of the assembled case Motherboard placement Flow rate Monitor and Pump Pass-throughs with Side Acrylic Without Acrylic Back of the case After the Power Coating:

Hello, its me, i was wondering if you guys know any good custom liquidcooling cases under $120 (other than Define S)

I just finished my first true build. I've built computers in the past, plenty of times. But never have I put as much time into one as I did into this. Housing a Ryzen 5 2600X, a Radeon RX Vega 64, ASUS Crosshair VI Hero X370, and a Samsung 970 Pro NVMe 512GB SSD all topped off with an EK Nickel plated Reference Vega 64 Water block, and a Motherboard specific C6H Nickel Plated Monoblock. A ThermalTake 360mm x 32mm Radiator front mounted in a ThermalTake View 37. The only downside I have so far, is the Motherboard I have doesn't have any Adressable RGB Headers, so the Thermaltake RIING fans I have are not in sync with the motherboard. Otherwise, I am proud of the work I have done. Cable management is still in progress, These were taken immediately after I finished the Liquid Cooling loop, and it was mentally straining on me. But I am still open to suggestions, what should I do next? What can I improve on? How do I fix the RGB Syncing issues? Thank you for reading!

So i will be buying a new gpu in the summer(hopefully navi will come out), so i need to know what to look for in a gpu, so that it is quiet. My current GPU is the zotac 1080ti mini, and it is pretty loud. Quieter than a single blower, but still loud. So here is my hypothesis. 120mm liquid cooled gpu>3fan gpu>2fan gpu. I know that it depends on the quality of the cooler, but i think asus and MSI and Sapphire topend gpus will be good. I hope to be buying sapphire, so these are the 2 styles i will be choosing between: But which of these 3 will be generally more quieter and why? If you have any other info about what makes a gpu quiet also comment that. A: B: C :

Has anyone had personal experience with the effectiveness and quality of this particular dual-slot water-cooled 2080-Ti from Galax? It looks rad on paper: http://galaxstore.net/GALAX-GeForce-RTX-2080Ti-HOF-OC-Lab-WC-Edition_p_180.html https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/galax-rtx-2080-ti-hof-oc-lab-wc-edition.b6412 https://gnd-tech.com/2018/09/galax-launches-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-hall-of-fame-oc-lab-edition/ ... or any comparison experience or thoughts with the other dual-slot native-liquid-cooled 2080-Ti's: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-2489-KR https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N208TAORUSX-WB-11GC#kf https://www.msi.com/Graphics-card/GeForce-RTX-2080-Ti-SEA-HAWK-EK-X/Gallery#lg=1&slide=4

Ok so first post! Have watched Linus for years. Seen almost every video and get notifications for new ones. Totally in love with the show and his personality. But anyway I’m also in love with the Dan case A4- SFX. And I know asus makes a ROG Strix x499 mini itx. I want to know if anyone has heard of this fitting in this case. Total build I’m looking for is GTX 1080ti (Amp extreme of possible) •Threadripper 2950x •ASUS ROG Strix x470 Mini-ITX •Mini 92-120mm water cooler •Samsung 970 Pro 1-2TB nVME •Dan case A4-SFX •SFX power supply I am a DJ, music producer. And avid gamer. I’ll take the FPS loss over my initial idea of a 8700k/9900k. Been usuing my early 2011 MBP with i7 2.3 ghz quad core upgraded with RAID 0 Samsung 860 egos and 16gb DDR3 ram, and is really like to treat myself after years of gig money saved up. The dan case is small enough to fit perfectly in this padded backpack I have but if I have to go for another case I’d really like to stay under 6 liters. Price under $3-4000 isn’t a issue. Just hoping I can get this thing up and running fast. Thank you everybody

I currently have a aio on my CPU a masterliquid 240 and was thinking of doing a custom loop for my gpu I won't have enough to upgrade the Vega in the future as these new GPUs will cost alot. I can not find blocks for the card but aliexpress has multiple the one I've found is made by a brand called bykski and it's a full cover block but in not sure if it will be worth it to water cool the card I have a 700w psu so I can overclock it I was also going to get a 360mm rad. Will that be enough. I forgot to mention the card is flashed to a 64s bios

Hello! So I need advice on a build I'm working on/planning. I'm mainly only making this topic for custom-loop advice as the other parts are mostly set in stone, except the ram at the moment. But for your curiosity here is the list: Time to cover some questions: Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I'm open to ideas and alternative solutions! If you have any other questions, please ask!

Hello forum! I am having issues with my core i7 5820k temps. I have had this build for approximately 5 years and specs are as follows: Motherboard: MSI X99S SLI Plus (https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/x99s-sli-plus.html) CPU: Intel Core i7 5820k (https://ark.intel.com/products/82932/Intel-Core-i7-5820K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz) Ram: Trident Z 16 GB (https://gskill.com/en/product/f4-3200c14d-16gtz) GPU: EVGA Nvidia GTX 780ti (https://www.evga.com/Products/Specs/GPU.aspx?pn=E4755EA0-12DF-4F22-ABA3-650C494D83DC) Power Supply: Corsair CS750M (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/cs-series-config/p/CP-9020078-NA) Cooler: Corsair h115i 280mm RAD (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Liquid-Cooling/Dual-Radiator-Liquid-Coolers/Hydro-Series™-H115i-280mm-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CPU-Cooler/p/CW-9060027-WW) Additional: 2 850 evo SSDs + 1 wd blue HDD After 5+ years of running with relatively no issues, I was using my computer to host both a server and play Overwatch simultaneously. I had forgotten to close the server I had been running earlier and as a result of running both programs at the same time my CPU hit temps in excess of 50-55 degrees Celsius and 70-100% utilization on multiple cores. Following this event, my 5820k began to perform roughly 10 degrees (Celsius) hotter than normal on nearly every game/intensive task I threw at it (average idle temps went from 30 Celsius to 40 Celsius). Assuming I had perhaps cooked the 3 year old preapplied thermal compound on my h115i, I set out to replace it with some Thermal Grizzly Aeronaut compound. Temps proceeded to report in excess of 60c, and so I reapplied paste (assuming I had applied it incorrectly) multiple times. Alas I saw no difference and proceeded to test the power supply (via multimeter) also to no avail. The strangest part of all of this is that despite my CPU reporting 60c idle, when I measure the back of the socket (transistor bank on the back of the motherboard) via and infrared thermometer I see very little activity (temps of around 32c). My humble question to you forum is: what am I missing?? Cooler temps report that liquid is on average 34c, while CPU currently reports 50 in idle, is it thermal conductivity because I haven't properly applied my paste? Is my pump bad (does not sound or feel bad)? Is my CPU thermistor/temp diode broken? Is my motherboard thermistor/temp diode broken? Is my power supply failing and supplying too much voltage (reports .950 core voltage in bios)? Thank you sincerely for any constructive response. I rarely reach out on forums such as this, but I seem to have reached the end of my cognitive abilities to diagnose this issue and hope that maybe you might generously be able to fill some of those gaps.

https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-GXiVR8220A-Overclockable-i7-8700K-Keyboard/dp/B07B6FP1D7/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535463054&sr=1-2&keywords=Overclockable+PC Can I Put Water Insted Of Liquid If I Wanted To?

I just finished this a few month ago. I forgot to post this thing up. All hard piped even in the back!! Calling you out Linus lol! This is my first liquid cooled build and was inspired by the rig build ltt did. Asus x99 a II 5930 k oc to 4.5 ghz 16gb g skill trident z founders edition 1080 ti 250 gb samsung evo 960 (OS) 1 tb samsung evo 960 (game storage) 8tb wd black Thermaltake tower 900 primochill vue candy purple coolant ek 480 rad in the back thermaltake tubing and rgb fittings water blocks are all ek ek reservoir and d5 pump combo corsair rgb leds blah blah blah I built the dang thing thinking I was going to get back into gaming and it just sits here