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Showing results for tags 'dying'.
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Hello, I brought an asus 3060 v2 12gb tuf gaming on Facebook market place a few days ago today it worked fine and today when I boot up my pc it looked this see picture below and no boot logo or windows logo. This is not a driver issue right? there are no artifacting issue in game or normal pc use since I manually downloaded the lastest driver from nvidia it still has 1 year and a half manufacturing warranty left should I RMA or should I speak to asus gpu support to trouble shoot and confirm? Any advice or suggestions would be highly appreciated thank you very much!
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So I've got Windows 11 installed on a WD Black SN750 500GB NVMe SSD. I used a 2tb WD Blue 5400RPM that I've had since 2017 for mass storage of games, movies, downloads, clips and everything in between. Recently (even when I was on Windows 10) my OS has been acting a bit funny. It randomly freezes and certain functions just won't work like opening the start menu, and refreshing the desktop would make all the apps disappear. it'll take a long time to restart or shudown. Windows explorer will sometimes just lock up and make my whole screen to white. When it happened on windows 10 it went away after a day or 2. I did use the SFC /scannow and the DISM online restorehealth commands which both say they were complete and restored files. I've also tried defragging the drive after it started working again on windows 10. It analysed and optimiser but said the drive was 2% fragmented and it would not go away no matter how many times I used the windows tool to defrag. But it still happens. On windows 11 there was one instance where the drive disappeared and then next boot it reappeared It's weird because it was fine for a few weeks since it happened on windows 10 but now it's happening again. The windows 11 is a fresh install. Even my GPU driver breaks and I think it may be because the instant replay is set to record to my HDD and it's set to use the disk storage as the buffer too instead of system ram. I'm guessing it's a dying HDD or a damaged SATA cable/connection on the HDD, but I'd like to hear what you guys think and if any of you had anything like this before. Thank you -
I've been trying to play Dying Light 2 in my laptop and in almost every 5-10 seconds, GPU and CPU voltage throttling regardless of what's happening on screen. My config is given at the bottom. Note : The CPU (i7 11370H) is a 35 Watt CPU and the GPU (RTX 3060) is a 80 Watt (+5 Watt smart boost) GPU. While monitoring with Afterburner in game, I saw even if I'm staying still or running or hitting enemies, the CPU & GPU goes to 33+ W and 83 W respectively. And in every 5-10 seconds they would fall back to 20-ish and 40-ish W respectively for a few seconds. And then the game would stutter as FPS would drop from upper 50s to the 10s or 20s. Note: The GPU is the one that has been throttling the most and the voltage in some very rare occasions spikes to 100+ W for half a seconds and throttles back to the 40s. Is this a game issue or is there something with my laptop? My config: Model : ASUS TUF Dash F15 GPU FX516PM CPU: i7 11370H GPU: RTX 3060 RAM: 16 GB DDR4 (Soldered) -
Hi everyone, SOLVED: Turns out it was a dodgy SATAT cable. Strange that it only seemed to be one drive and not both, and only in one specific directory but nevertheless I am happy the problem has been found. I am having a very weird issue that I just can't seem to find a fix for. So I bought a couple of 6 TB Seagate Barracuda hard drives (brand new), and one of them seems to be possibly dying, but no software seems to show any indicator of it dying. I do have all the data backed up so data recovery isn't an issue. I went to clip a video on my PC and it was saved to my main SSD boot drive, and the file can be opened and viewed just fine. I then moved it to the drive in question in a specific folder. From then on whenever I even tried to open the folder, it would take FOREVER to load all the files in, and all the thumbnails and the file I just created would not open. It didn't error out or anything, it would just open in VLC media player and be a black screen. I thought that the file was broken, but I then moved the exact file to an external hard drive and that file works perfectly and the directory doesn't take long at all to load. It did however freeze the Windows explorer everytime I tried to open any file within that directory, so I deleted the folder and copy pasted it from my backup to the drive that does work back onto that drive and same thing. It would freeze Windows Explorer and then my screen would go black for a second and then come back and Windows Explorer would crash. I tried unplugging and replugging in the drive, and doing a quick format but I can't even format it as it just won't complete the format at all, and I checked the Task Manager for activity (see attached picture) and it constantly like this whether it is idle or being 'formatted'. So now I have a drive that has no partition on it as the format has failed. I also used Crystal Disk Info to see if it can detect anything bad (see screenshot) and as far as I can tell it seems ok? I don't really know how to interpret all the numbers and such but it says it is 'Good'. Please let me know if there is something within CDI I am missing. I have not dropped or caused any physical damage to the drive in any way and as you can tell from the CDI screenshot it is quite new. I am not too concerned about data loss as I have back ups but I would love to find out if there is something I can do to fix it. I did have a question about the drives making a clicking sound which they still do every now and then which has happened since I got them which I made a forum post about. See below for more details. Sorry for the very long post but I wanted to include as much detail as possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated )
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Hey everyone In the last couple of months I have been having issues with my graphics card, and as far as I can tell it is slowly dying. I have started to crash in every game I play, where the ulilization of the graphics card reach 100%. No mather what game I play, this will eventually happen. And it only happens when the graphics card is being used 100%. So far I have tried to use MSI Afterbunner to underclock it, without succes, it seems to simply ignore my underclock (which I think is because of GPU boost). I have also tried to apply some voltage to see if that could make it more stable, but it dosent make a difference. I hope you guys have some ideas on what to do, because I honestly dont know what to do anymore. Sincerly, A tired gamer
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Hey guys my specs are: CPU- i7-7700k GPU- Asus gtx 1080 TI. (Old card was Radeon R9 280 twin frozr) 16bg corsair vengeance DDR4 700w gold thermaltake psu So my issue is: ever since I've upgraded my gpu to the 1080ti my games have done a crazy screen twitch/spazz and then would crash the game. SEE PICTURE! Also I've noticed that I cant even open my games with crashing. It wont even make it to the title screen. But when it does it does the screen flicker. I ran the heaven benchmark and it works fine. Average of 250 fps and a 6500 score at the end. My mistake: at first embrassly enough I did not uninstall the amd driver before swapping the cards and installing the new nvidia drivers. Also if I use MSI afterburner and turn all the dials down all the way it will run the games fine no problems. Things I've tried: 1. I used DDU to get rid of the AMD drivers and nvidia drivers and then reinstalled the right drivers. To fix my mistake. 2. I have upgraded my psu from a 550w to a 700w 3. I reset bios just incase the bios remembered the old drivers. 4. Installed AVG and checked for malware and report was clean.
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It began with my 2 games just yesterday, both of them just close after startup, and when I reinstalled them, none works but one of them reported that the files are corrupted. Some of my software also can't run anymore, Windows send a message saying "This app can't run on your pc". I installed all of my software in D: drive, and C: drive is only for OS, and driver. But when I checked the drives in Hard Disk Sentinel, it said my HDD(D: is fine (100% health), and my SSD(C: is acceptable(37% health) (with crystaldiskinfo all the drives are in good condition), I don't know how reliable the software is. So are my drives dying? if so, which one? or can I just clean install Windows and format all the drives and everything's going to work fine? thanks.
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Hello everyone, i was curious today and checked some stats of my WD black edition, which since i built this machine in 2012 is my main HD. The numbers seem slow and power on time seems like a lot. Is it dying? I have no backup right now. Budget is tight as f*ck ... Any insight on those numbers would be nice!
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Such a headache! I bought an MSI GTX 1080Ti Seahawk X recently, and proceeded to install MSI's "gaming app" for a "one-click" overclock (something like +50MHz) about a week after purchase. Once I shut my PC down that night, it failed to start up thereafter. The PC will get power - I see the fans start to spin, and the LED's light up (like the bios-light); but then the speakers "pop" and the PC fails to start (which is when the LED's turn off – except the power LED on the case). It last about a half a second before it crashes; and I doubt that it makes it to POST. My motherboard speaker that came with the motherboard never worked, but I doubt that it's far enough into the boot sequence to play a noise anyway (half a second). I first tried to reset the CMOS by clicking the CMOS reset button, while the computer was unplugged: Didn't work. I then checked the RAM, one stick at a time (still haven't tried a different stick, but I doubt that's the solution): Didn't work. I removed the graphics card from the PCIe slot (and the power): Didn't work. The fact that it happened on the next consecutive boot after I installed the MSI app is worrisome (as that's the only significant change that was made). If anybody has any clue how to diagnose this further, I'd be exceptionally grateful. Here are my xray specs: MB: Gigabyte z97x Gaming G1 Wifi-bk CPU: i7-4790k Cooler: NZXT Kraken x61 GPU: MSI GTX 1080Ti Seahawk X RAM: Hyperx DDR3 1,600MHz Storage: Two Crucial SSD's PSU: EVGA 1200 watt 80+ Gold (yes, I know it's overkill) Case: NZXT H440 OS: Windows 10 Pro I'll also attach a motherboard diagram if it helps.
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Hello. I bought a Dell Inspiron 7559 almost a half year ago. At the beginning of using it, I set the battery charge mode to do-not-fully-charge mode which means it only charges up to 85% and only start charging below 55%, cus I know that lithion ion gets more damage from deeper charges/discharges. Dell's diagnostic system tells me that the battery's health now is at 96% which was like a month ago, but I started noticing that it started to discharge more quickly. A month ago I had 4 hour remaining time, now I have 1 hour and like 40 minutes from full (85%) charge. Can I trust the diagnostic system health report and assume that something draining the battery? The last modifying was days before, RAM upgrade from 8GB to 16GB. I bought two Kingston HyperX DDR3L RAM modules with the same power properties as the previous ones. I use it everyday. I work on this, I study on this, I entertain myself with this. I often put heavy load on the machine when I'm rendering stuff, but when I didn't have a cooler under it I downclocked the CPU to 80%. Specs in signature I have the most recent BIOS firmware for this model
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My Toshiba X300 5tb drive has been making some weird noises for awhile and I would like someone else's opinion on if this drive is dying as I have only had it a year. I will attach a mp3 of what if sounds like. sorry the AGC is on and its a little noisy but nonetheless you can still hear the drive. This is outside of the case. The case was fully closed. MVI_4180.mp3
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What would you make out of this? (This drive made grinding noise in the past) I can't really tell what means what, I would really appreciate if someone could summarise it
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Alright, y'all. I need help, and fast. I have a pair of Levin SX-985's. They're absolutely awesome and I couldn't ask for more, save for maybe slightly better connectivity and the elimination of some random quirks that I did learn how to deal with fairly easily. NONETHELESS, I've had them for a few years and they've served me well, but they've been through some pretty heavy abuse, and due to that and the fact that they're rather old, the radios are starting to die really fast. I need some recommendations on a new pair of wireless earbuds to get, ASAP! I can't really spend anything more than $50, though I could stretch to $80 if I absolutely had to. Features I'm looking for: A tight behind-the-neck wire design, akin to that of the SX-985's (this was one of my favorite features about them) OR Individual earpods Battery life of at least 8 hours (I could do 6, but 8 is preferable, and I know it does exist) The ability to play and pause music, skip or go back a track, and increase or decrease volume I'm also wondering if I should go with in-ear monitors instead. I've come across situations where they would've been nice to have, and I know from experience they're really good at blocking out outside noise. I also know that they're uncomfortable. Should I avoid these for day-to-day music listening, or are there comfortable models out there that don't cost an arm and a leg? And are there any that are wireless, or no?
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Hello,I recently ordered the corsair k70 LUX (non-RGB, red LEDs) with MX browns. When I went to check the forums, i noticed that many people were reporting dying LEDs, as soon as 6h after delivery and the most recent report being dated July 2016. It wasn't for the lux models, but I still want to be sure that I didn't order a cca. $130 keyboard that will fail on me as soon as I get it.I actually prefer the non-RGB model because I don't like the excessive light spill on RGB versionsSKU: CH-9101022-DEThank you.
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I fear my MSI 280x is nearing the end of it's life. It has recently begun to give strange artifacts in games that don't require great amounts of power, and low framerates in games that can be run on integrated graphics (ie., Minecraft with no visual mods was running at sub-30fps at 1080p.) I am at least the third owner of the card, so I have no idea what kind of stress it has been through over it's life. The card has never had a backplate and sags considerably, which is probably a factor. I will continue troubleshooting, but what I really want to know is if I should stick it out until Vega is available with a spotty GPU or jump on the next deep sale I find on a 1070. The problem is that I'm looking for a 300-350 USD card, which spot is not filled by any current GPU. I want it to perform at least twice as good in general as my current card, and the 480 and 1060 both fall considerably short of that. I think it is fairly likely that AMD will take the opportunity to fill that market sector with a Vega card. Thanks!
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Hello. My old Asus 1650x1080 1ms 60hz monitor now has some sort of "doubling" effect, check the added images to see how it looks. Any way how to fix it? It doesn't happen everytime, just from time to time. My gpu: GTX 1060 6gb MSI GAMING X PSU: Seasonic m12ii-evo620 monikas1 monikas2 Forgot to add .png in the end of the pictures... Here is the ss for faster checking: http://prntscr.com/dq3ewl http://prntscr.com/dq3f9o
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Hi all,My rig is the following atm (an old rig actually with an updated GPU):CPU: i7 920 overclocked @ 3.6GPU: evga gtx 1060 superclockedMotherboard: Gigabyte EX58-ExtremeRAM: 12gb (2GB x 6) DDR3 triple channelMonitor: 1920 x 1200PSU: 1200W Thermaltake I have this overclocked setup for many years (it's a 10 year old rig). But now it cannot keep my overclock settings. If I set my usual overclock settings the motherboard do not POST correctly (I have a motherboard speaker and does not beep). Or if it starts then I have other issues (does not shut down, failures with Prime95, does not boot etc.) My PC seems to work just fine with the optimized defaults. It cannot even accept the RAM's settings/voltage. The default one is 1066 Mhz. If I set it to the RAMs specifications (9/9/9/24 1600 1.66v - RAM says 1.65v but I don't have this option) and the rest to the optimized defaults still my motherboard does not POST correctly. It complains about overvoltage. My PSU is a 10 year old one but I have the same behavior with a brand new one (Thermaltake Smart 600W RGB 80+). The new one should be OK since it passes the paper clip test so I suppose the possibility of being DOA is slim. I have also tried 3-4 new CMOS batteries and applied new thermal paste to my heatsink. High temperatures is not an issue according to Core Temp. Is this a result of time? Are these signs that my motherboard is starting to getting really old and thus not accepting anything else apart from the defaults?
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Hello, Hear me out... I bought the RTX 2070 Gaming Z a couple weeks ago and the first day I used it, it ran like a dream, no problems at all. Turned the computer off, and on the next evening, played for about 20 mins and the entire screen turns to a static mess of artifacts and the computer crashes. (See pics) Computer tries to reset by itself but the static mess keeps re-appearing on the boot screen and the computer tries to reset again over and over again. Sometimes BSOD... Thought to myself, "the GPU is defective, oh darn!" and sent it back with Newegg. Got a second one and threw it in my computer. Worked like a dream! And then... Second day, same story - gamed for 20 mins and same static artifact mess and whole computer crashes. Went and got a refund instead... Does anyone have any idea what's going on? I refuse to believe that I'm so unlucky that I could get two consecutive defective cards. All my other components (listed below) are all reasonably brand new (bought within 4 months). Could something else be wrong or am I cursed? (Please be nice, kinda new to the whole PC building thing) Current System Specs: Intel i5-8600k CPU (OC to 4.7Ghz) MSI z370 Tomahawk Motherboard 16Gb 3000 MHz G.skill Trident Z RGB Ram (2x8Gb) EVGA G2 650W PSU GTX 970 GPU Things to consider: * I am daisy-chaining my VGA cables, but I tried separate cable and the issue remains * My current 970 works fine, even with a heavy OC. * I did NOT OC the 2070 the second time (didn't even have a chance!) * All my components are brand new. * 2070 was running at a reasonable temp. (60C-70C) * CPU was running at a reasonable temp. (60C-70C)
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Hello Internet people Just last week I started having a problem with the computer. Whenever the computer used the GPU (940mx) black flickers and screen static would appear. The problem slowly appeared, only flickering sometimes but it has gotten so bad in the last few days. I have tried to -Reinstall Windows 10 -Reinstall Drivers -Play without Drivers -Use older Drivers Video Evidence to help - One Minute Clips https://youtu.be/2Wt_idOqRAA - Counter-Strike Menu https://youtu.be/0EANjPfyzqM - Counter-Strike Ingame https://youtu.be/CIz7NccLvbo - Maplestory 2 in game https://youtu.be/QU3j1RX2Vyk - Borderland 2 in game (WORST OFFENDER) I don't know what caused this but I think it is a hardware issue. I use this laptop every day to play and temps on the laptop can be 70^C for around 3 to 7 hours every day. I have an ASPIRE F5-573G. i5-6200U, 8GB Ram, 940Mx 2Gb
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2 years ago, I installed a custom loop into my computer. The pump I am currently using is an alphacool VPP655 pwm model. When not hooked up to a fan header, it goes at roughly ~30% speed. It is now moving at a trickle pace. Does this mean my pump is dying, or could it be something else?
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Hi everyone! I recently bought a used GTX 1080 ti that will be put in my new build. Since it will take a while to save up for an i7 8700k, an sdd, and ram, I can’t quite test it on anything else but my old rig that has an AMD FX-6350. Due to the CPU bottlenecking, I can’t tell if the decrease in its performance is due to a worn out GPU or the bottlenecking of the system. I ran games such as Fortnite and Pubg. I got around 40fps with random stuttering with all setting turned to epic in Fortnite, and I got around 60fps with frequent little stutters in Pubg will all settings ultra and vsync, motion blur, and sharpen on. I got a 3dMark score of 6562 with stuff like discord running in the background, but nothing too intense. If anyone has any information on telling if I got a pooped out GPU, that would be much appreciated. I also uploaded an image of one of the tests I did as well. Cheers!
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Hi guys, I already made a post about my GPU problem, where I was told to try out different drivers, over- and undervoltages and a fresh Windows installation. The problem is, that my GPU is randomly crashing when on Desktop or ingame. Fans ramping to 100%, audio keeps working and I can even pause youtube videos when it happens. Reverting to old drivers fixed the problem for a couple of days, however it happened again yesterday when I was on desktop. Thats why I want to upgrade to a 3080, but they just arent in stock Does anyone have another suggestion to fix my problem?
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So for a while now I have been experiencing strange behavior from my first even PC build (specs below), I would shut it down and sometimes when i would boot it back up the fans would spin, keyboard lights up but no signal sent to the monitor so it never wakes up. A few manual shutdowns and restarts later it works just fine and i'm able to game and work. Yesterday rolls along and i try to start it, but the problem gets worse and now im getting half black screens as windows starts up or freezes where the computer kicks it into a restart loop. Little bit of tinkering later I decide to try using the on-board graphics instead of my GPU, turns out everything runs fine even under stress tests so i'm assuming my GPU has failed me. That really sucks because it was the only part of this build i wanted to carry forward into my new build. This was my first build and everything was bought used as my salary is really low and PC components are expensive (located in Spain). Now i'm torn, do I replace the GPU with either a 1660 super, 2060 KO or 5600 XT. Budget of 300 EUR. I obviously cant continue with my initial plan to upgrade my mobo, cpu and ram until this is done as the R5 3600 doesn't have integrated graphics and the GPU is a must then. Any advice is appreciated! Current build: Case: phanteks P400a (1 month old) CPU: i5 2500k with a hyper 212 evo cooler GPU: GTX 970 Gigabyte windforce Mobo; P8Z68-V PRO Ram: 4x 2GB DDR3 hyper x fury PSU: 850w Coolermaster silence pro 80+ bronze (not sure of age but guessing it was bought with the CPU so could be very old) Storage: Samsung evo SSD 256GB Mainly using the PC to do the following: Working on excel and remote into office computer to send emails and such. Gaming (144hz 1080p): CSGO No mans sky Forza horizon Dota 2 Sea of thieves
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Hi friends. I'm back with my never ending power problems. My new TX650 80 PLUS Gold PSU came in today. I installed it in my PC, tested it with a multimeter and everything seemed fine. But then when I started playing GTA 5 it turned off after a while. I used my multimeter again, and tried 2 more times. Everytime it turned off the voltage SPIKED to 21.5+V, then I heard a soft click and the system turned off. Could it possibly be that the old PSU damaged my videocard? (The 12V rail was broken on my VS650). Please help. I've been struggling with this PC for over a month now. I'm seriously frustrated. Thanks.
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So I've had this Coolermaster Thunder 600W power supply for around 3 years and it came with a prebuilt PC, the problem is I fear it's dying the reason being I can hear crackling during general use and it gets especially loud under load during gaming. My question is what is the sign of a dying power supply? My Specs are: Rx 480 , ryzen 5 2600 , x370 motherboard , few hard drives and SSD's and nothing is overclocked. I found this odd as well are these voltages normal, ( from aida64) :
