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Hello, Okay... I need answers! So a while back I had a problem with my pc where it just hangs on the bios screen. Now I reseated the gpu cpu and ram. Re - ordered my ram into A1 and B1 so on... and didn't see any progress. Until I took out my hdmi and wifi dongle to see if any of my ports were acting up. So I found the problem. To this day I can't replicate the issue. (Luckily and unluckily) So today I had the same issue just came out of nowhere. So I was curious if it was the stupid wifi dongle and ohh to my surprise it was. Now why... is now my question. So I checked drivers and everything. Found nothing everything was as it should be. So where do we go from here. Is it my motherboard, ports, it shorting out , short circuiting. This confuses me. One last thing, I've tried MULTIPLE drivers! Any help, greatly appreciated!
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Hi This isn't a desperate situation but I think it's unusual enough to document, after a quick Google search last night and I couldn't find anything quite similar to what I'm experiencing here either. So for a few years now I have been using a Logitech K230 / M325 keyboard & mouse paired with their 'Unifying' receiver. They were gloriously cheap and effective for daily browsing & light gaming, I can bash away with them without fear of breaking anything expensive and if I need to do a lot of serious typing for study or business I plugin a lovely old Honeywell for that. Lately, the mouse has been a little off with right & left click not always going off correctly or holding fully while pressed, so I figured I'd might as well go and buy a new combo kit... So I picked up a Logitech K220 / M150 combo on clearence for $19 (AUD). The first thing I notice is no 'Unifying' branding on the (larger) dongle and the moulding for the new K220 is the same as the older K230 but doesn't have the cut-out for a power switch anymore. It must have also been on the shelf for a while, because the AAA batteries for the keyboard were dead when I put them in. Pulled the old dongle, fitted the new one and off I went, except... I didn't realize it at first, but there's something seriously wrong with this keyboard. Demonstrating in notepad, When I hit the 'b' key it actually types 'bu*'. If I hit b repeatedly, it changes case and goes 'bu*BU*bu*BU*bu*BU*' - it also opens the Calculator app each time, as if I'm hitting Func. + F4, which is marked as a Calc key. Hitting Func. + F4 on the older K230 does nothing. When I hit the 'v' key, it types 'gyv'. If I keep hitting v, it repeats 'gyvgyvgyv' but moves the cursor back to the end of the first three letters and sometimes, if you move it back to the end, adds an '8' and goes to the next line... When I hit the 'r' key it types 'cn1`r\'. If I hit the number 6 it types '5z' and puts my PC to sleep! Really "fun" when it goes off for the first time... if I still had the box I'd re-gift it as a gag. My operating system is Windows 10, I've moved the dongle around to different USB ports (2.0/3), there's no 2.4Ghz devices nearby to interfere and I've only had this keyboard for like 2 days, so nothing rattles when I shake it and it hasn't become like the bin of a bakery yet. I tossed the box and receipt when I got it so it probably isn't going back to the shop now, but it was only $19 so my wallet just has to take the hit. That being said, if anyone knows of a fix or has had this problem and/or has some other trouble shooting tips I'd be happy to see them. Is it some weird driver thing? Is it the water in the toilet spinning backwards down here?
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I recently bought a DAC Dongle for my handset it is a CX31993 Pro, Does it really have DAC sampling rate: 32bits/384KHz. However can I use https://www.startech.com.bd/edifier-p180-plus-earphone this earphone with it ??? I have also seen https://www.startech.com.bd/ other earphones from that site. -
Well, after going on drunken tirades about how smartphones are terrible because they are capable of so much more than developers are willing to do, I decided to completely throw all of my phones away (not really, I just put them all in a closet, never to use them again), because they arbitrarily cannot run games and apps they easily are able to. I already knew fully well that what I wanted in a phone was a laptop, as smartphones are basically pretending to be them anyway. So anyway, because I absolutely hate phones now, I need a way to connect to a cellular network without them. How do I use a laptop to do this? Laptops with cellular built-in are extremely overpriced, to the point of making anything Apple or NVIDIA makes seem like the Costco hot dog in comparison. Why would I pay $2000 for what is a relatively basic $450 laptop just because cellular apparently dramatically increases its price? Remember, laptops have way more space to fit everything than phones do, so putting cellular features in a laptop is actually way easier than trying to cram every feature that phones have into their tiny size. I get that cellular hardware itself does technically cost money, but fitting it in even an Ultrabook (and I don't even care if the laptop is small) should not be difficult if phones can do it! I understand a maybe $50 price increase, but this is like a $1500 just because of cellular! How the hell is cellular hardware almost the price of an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 if phones are able to fit this and much more in a tiny package for $900? What the hell? I feel so stupid for being unable to comprehend this! Can someone explain like I'm five? So it was clear that the only way was to buy a cellular dongle to connect to a cellular network so I can call an Uber on my laptop. Except how do I go about buying one? I know they exist, but where? I could try asking my carrier if they have any. If you all know of any, please link them! As for the laptop itself, you know what they say about buying used... Cannot wait for a GTX 1080 Max-Q with 2 TB of storage! -
Are the receivers for a G903 Lightspeed compatible with the ones from G903 Lightspeed (Hero)? I bought a used replacement for very cheap price (no dongle, however), and want to pair my G903 Lightspeed to the receiver from my G903 Lightspeed (HERO). And even if I wanna keep both, should I worry about compatibility if I were to buy a receiver for it? P.S. my G903 (HERO) left click works properly again. For months, that button was acting up as I couldn't drag n' drop properly.
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Hi, I'm using a 2018 Macbook Pro with a Hama dongle (https://uk.hama.com/00200107/hama-usb-c-hub-multiport-4-ports-2-x-usb-a-usb-c-hdmi-) to connect an HDMI TV and various USB A devices to the mac via 1 cable. The issue I have is that none of my USB A devices are recognized by the Mac if I connect directly to the hub. However, if I connect this Hama SD card reader (https://www.hama.com/00200125/hama-usb-otg-hub-card-reader-3-ports-usb-a-sd-microsd-incl-usb-a-adapter) to one of the adapter's USB A ins and then connect any USB device to the SD reader's USB A in, the Mac recognizes it. Example of devices: Trust GXT 130 Wireless mouse, MOTU Ultralite MK3, Akai APC 40 So: Device -> Hama Dongle -> Mac: Not recognized Device -> Hama Dongle -> Hama SD card reader -> Mac: Recognized Any idea what the problem is ? Why does it not work with the dongle's USB ins which are USB 3.2 Gen 1, but works with the SD card reader's USB in which is 2.0 ?
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Hi there So recently my dongle for my wireless headset broken (i cant see in the dark and walked into my pc) i just wanted to know if anyone knows how to replace it or what i can get to replace it. The one i have now the circuit board snapped in half so there is no fixing that I thought maybe there is a universal dongle that my headset will just connect to or something if anyone knows of one please let me know thanks Headset is a (IKON APLHA Wireless gaming headset)
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I hope phones and tablets is the right section to ask this. Background: I am upgrading to a new phone soon and will have a Galaxy S9 with no current use. Instead of buying a task specific streaming device for $100 that will stop working in a year or 2 and be e-waste I wanna try and use the device I already have. My goal is to use my s9, taking advantage of samsung dex, for my unused tv. I use Netflix, Disney+, Crave, and on occasion Kodi. I have a dongle that is good for short uses but it heats up to a point I am not comfortable with using it for a long time like this. What I need: I am looking for dongle recommendations that would be good for this. This tv is only 1080p and 60hz, I have an air mouse with USB receiver for control, and power delivery through the dongle is needed. Also, because of extended use it needs to stay cool! Heating up is obviously a fire hazard. I thought this would be a good place to ask since there are probably a lot of people on here who have used dongles for different phone setups. Thanks everyone! tldr; looking for dongle for Galaxy S9, needs hdmi, usb a, power delivery, and safe during prolonged use.
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Sorry I don't whether to post this on peripherals or networking, maybe troubleshooting instead, yea.... Anyways I noticed when I was using my laptop, while using a wireless keyboard, the download speed absolutely tank. Here's the speedtest results : Here's when I didn't use the keyboard : After trying stuff to eliminated any variable. I found out that was the dongle that was causing it. Cause even when I turned off the keyboard the down speed still sucks. But when I connected the keyboard via wired the down speed comes back to normal again. Does anyone what's causing it??? Can it be fixed???
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Hi everyone, please bear with me here as I've never had or needed to use a mobile data dongle/adapter until this week. Reason I'm asking: I'm starting a new job next week but my WAN connection has started being super slow and very unreliable recently. I emailed my ISP who told me they are doing region-wide upgrades for the next 12-18 months so I should expect frequent outages. Amazing timing! I immediately looked for another ISP but it's this one or nothing as I'm in a rural area. So, I went to a store and picked up a 3G/4G dongle but I could barely even connect! When I managed to load a speed test I was getting a 10,000-40,000ms ping with a speed so slow it couldn't register, it just showed 0.00Mb/s. Of course, I immediately took it back to cancel it. I want to try with another network that supposedly has the best coverage in this country and some people have recommended. Question(s): Is there any possible way I can help or improve the signal on a mobile data dongle? Would the old improve your WIFI hack work by making a dish out of aluminum foil with the dongle placed in the middle? Or what about connecting it by a USB extension cable and putting the dongle outside the house in a waterproof box? Or same idea but in the attic/loft? Anything that could improve it? Appreciate the help. -
Hey Everyone, I love my MacBook Pro 2017 - specs in my signature (since its part of the issue, it is the version with just 2 USB-C Ports), although I wouldn't mind one with higher specs - but that's a different discussion for another time. Brief Description of issue: Basically, I'm running into an issue where my MacBook is losing internet Wi-Fi connectivity when I use a dongle or a USB-C to A adapter. I think know what's causing it - according to other users on the internet, its due to the shielding (or lack there off) in the adapters. Its causing the signal to either short or block or something. Now, this is annoying for many reasons - most notably, the lack of Wi-Fi, but more so that due to the lack of storage on my machine (only 128GB SSD) I basically have to use external storage, and I also like to use my MacBook on my monitor while I'm at a desk - for that odd occasion for when I decide to use OS X. As such, I need the extra ports provided either by a dongle or a dock. Main Question: Can anyone recommend a good, fairly cost effective dock that can provide multiple USB-A Ports (preferably at USB 3.0 Speeds for storage purposes), at least 1 HDMI output, and possibly an ethernet port. But most importantly, they know or at least can confirm that they do not cause any signal issues with the MacBook Pro. I don't use Thunderbolt, so if possible - I want to avoid getting a Thunderbolt Dock as it would basically just end up being used as a glorified USB-C Hub. My budget is around the £20-£30 mark. I don't really want to spend more, but if I have to - then I will. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and sorry for making you read a wall of text - but I though it'd be best to at least explain the problem.
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Hi all, I bought a pretty standard little dongle for my MacBook, which is "fine", but sometimes it goes dark when plugging or unplugging something in or out of it. It really drives me crazy sometimes as I pretty much just hop to my table for 10-15 minutes, then take off like a rocket etc. I am looking for a bit heftier version of - let's say - a docking station for Mac. Any recoms? Thanks!
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Hello, I'm Having this problem mentioned in the title and I don't know why It could be happening. so this is the issue, every time I turn my pen tablet On the wifi just "dies" (actually goes down to 100kb/s, practically unusable). this is how everything is connected. My wifi connection comes from a dongle connected to my 3.0 ports in the back panel I/O and the pen tablet has an HDMI connection, connected to my onboard graphics (until I can get an HDMI-Displayport adapter to connect it to the GPU) and USB for input connected to the 2.0 USB on the back too and a power USB connected directly to the power outlet via a smartphone transformer (which gives enough power according to the manual). I already tried different configurations, like switching the wifi to 2.0 and the input to 3.0 but it's the same. my best guess is that the tablet drains the power from the USB lanes, but since it is connected to the outlet I don't know. this is my pen tablet this is my computer Operating System Windows 10 Pro 64-bit CPU Intel Core i5 7400 @ 3.00GHz Kaby Lake 14nm Technology RAM 16,0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1066MHz (15-15-15-36) Motherboard MSI H270 GAMING M3 (MS-7A62) (U3E1) Graphics S22F350 (1920x1080@60Hz) Intel HD Graphics 630 (MSI) 3071MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB (Gigabyte) SLI Disabled Storage 931GB Western Digital WDC WD10EZEX-08WN4A0 (SATA ) Audio Steam Streaming Speakers
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I am new here so I apologize if this is not in the correct place. 9to5mac posted an article last week on an issue I’ve been experiencing since updating to iOS 16. I am following up with my local Apple Store. If that does not yield results I intend to open a case with my connections at Apple Enterprise support for a statement. I have an account through my work in IT. I’m not completely clear yet on if this is a choice by the Apple team or the streaming service providers. source article: https://9to5mac.com/2023/01/04/ios-16-break-drm-content-hdmi/amp/ The Core Issue: For communities like mine the wait time for Starlink is almost a year, and local satellite providers charge hundreds of dollars for internet service speeds most consumers would consider unacceptable for a phone plan 10 years ago. This puts families in a rough spot where they need to consider re-subscribing to traditional satellite television or simply unsubscribing from all major streaming services. Running DSL to our property is out of the budget(forget about fiber). This is before we even consider the number of people living in temporary accommodations like RVs or campers. I have not seen any acknowledgment from apple regarding the issue since the forums first began reporting on it in October. Furthermore, they continue to sell the dongle on the Apple Store without any notice to consumers that the product allegedly no longer supports major streaming services. I have seen several instances where forum users report buying multiple dongles($50/each) under the assumption that they a have a defective unit. I have seen no statements from major streaming service providers regarding changes to their DRM features Background: My family lives in a rural area and cut the cord 2 years ago. If you are wondering how rural, I spent $400 on a yagi antenna setup just to get decent cell service inside the house. Everyone has been using Apple’s official AV Adapter to play video over HDMI from iPhone to the TV. We recently updated to iOS 16 and noticed that we could no longer play Prime Video and some Netflix content. The phone screen mirrors just fine, we can browse the catalog without issue, but when launching DRM protected media it goes to a black screen on the TV. Hulu was especially strange because instead of a black screen we get an exaggerated hitching effect where the video/sound plays for a few frames, hangs, plays a few frames, hangs, etc. content cannot be consumed. I have tested on multiple phones and dongles, and can confirm the issue is only present on devices running iOS 16 or later. The Devil’s Advocate: Needs change with time and I understand that external HDMI devices are a major source of copyright violation and piracy. Businesses are well in their rights to sunset compatibility and features at their leisure. However, it is a mark of poor customer service and customer negligence to sunset a major feature of an officially supported product without informing the consumers of the change, even after the fact. This may be the result of poor communication between vendors, poor product management, or a sign that apple does not care about peripherals in the time between the factories and the landfills. The solution: I’ll continue working on my end for a statement from Apple support on the adapter issues. This issue could be quickly resolved by Apple and the service vendors with a public statement regarding the DRM changes and a very visible note on the AV adapter website/box stating that it will not work for most major streaming services. -
Can I use any mouse dongle I find to program it to my mouse using Razer Synapse? Or do I have to buy a replacement specifically for Razer or buy a new mouse?
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Manufacturers are making mainly usb 2 dongles to have compatibility with older systems and the transfer rate of usb 2 is still good enough for WiFi For years i had WiFi trouble till i realized that usb 2 devices need to go in usb 2 slots for optimum performance. I have always been putting it in the blue slots at the top for better reception.......... big mistake. Then i plugged it in a black usb slot and it works perfectly no drops, no disconnects in game, it is solid now. If you plug a usb 2 HDD in a 3.0 slot you will see that it drops in and out of optimum speed. usb 3 hardware can be put in a usb 2 slot no trouble.
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Hi guys, I have a cool looking ergonomic Sculpt Keyboard by Microsoft. It cost 90€ and is cool, but unpractical if you're used to keyboards that aren't split up. Sadly I had to work from overseas and forgot my receiver in that office. Nobody could find it and send it to me. Microsoft doesn't offer replacement Dongles for it as each keyboard is linked to only the one dongle that it came with. They also don't write that anywhere on the internet and only give out that information when contacted directly. I'm wondering if I should throw it away or sell it to a "fool" on ebay, who believes he can fix it... Is there a way to fix it? What would you do? -
HI all. I was wondering if any of you may know if my idea will work. I have a MacBook Pro from 2019 and I want to use 2 external monitors. Unfortunately Caldigit's thunderbolt dock is unavailable in my country and getting it to Poland will be pretty expensive. I would like to connect two USB C dongles that have few USB A ports, HDMI and USB C ports to my laptop. Will they work together? Will they both be able to connect to a monitor at the same time? And if it's possible to extend the connection between the laptop and the dongles through a USB C male to female cable? Thanks for the answer in advance! Stay safe, P.S. That's the dongle I want to use: https://allegro.pl/oferta/hub-adapter-gc-usb-c-7w1-do-macbook-air-13-2019-8772918179
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I'm using the Microsoft Surface Keyboard and the Microsoft Surface Headphones together on one USB 2.0 Bluetooth dongle and the PC is connected to the phone for desktop-PC telephoning (even though I just use that for caller signaling in the windows notifications). With the Keyboard and the Headphones connected via that bluetooth dongle I experience lags in bluetooth audio. When I connect one of the devices to the PC ports (headphones via audio cable or keyboard via USB) everything's fine. Are there speedy USB dongles using a USB 3.0 interface? Is bluetooth or USB 2.0 the limit here? I can't use two dongles together because of overlapping frequencies... Or are pci-e Bluetooth cards the way to go here? It's a big bequiet SilentBase 800 case, so I think a PCIe Antenna hiding behind the table next to a large metal case isn't really better.
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Hi, I am wondering what the best USB WiFi dongle is for under $200 AUD ($127.26 USD) I want a USB one because my graphics card is quite thick and expands over it. I am also quite far away from the router with walls in the way. Could you please tell me which one is the best to get? Thanks.
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Hey there awesome LTT People! After fallowing Linus and all the others for the past years and geeking around, I finally decided to join the forum. Right away I have a specific Issue at hand I just cannot unravel, using my search machines of choice. My company allowed me to choose a mechanical keyboard of my choice as a little reward for my contributions so far. I decided that this would be the perfect opporunity to get rid of my 6 year old, yet still beloved G510S and join in the mechanical Keyboard fun. I already switched from my G502 Proteus Core to G502 Lighspeed and have a great time mostly freeing myself from the cable chaos. Now to my actual point. I figured the G915 lightspeed would be a convenient partner for my G502 lightspeed, due to its modest business look and well reputation among many reviewers and users. However the price and build quality have not really convinced me yet. Something that would convince me tough, would be the possibility of using my G502 together with a G915 using a single dongle, for example the one from the G502 lightspeed. Can someone tell me, if that is possible? I searched quite a bit online but haven't found a single indicator, that this has been done before. If its not possible, is there a dongle i could buy that would allow me to do it? Would that dongle hinder my "Lightspeed" performance and stability? Thank you so much for your time, greetings from Germany! Best regards!
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Hey everyone, So I just got my XPS 13 2-in-1 and it is awesome. I got a USB C hub and I cant get the computer to see my mouse or keyboard when i plug them in. It can see an eternal hard drive and other comptuters/my phone can see the mouse and keyboard when i plug them into the hub. It only happens with my new computer for some reason. I am not sure if it is a problem with drivers or what. I have uninstalled the drivers and reinstalled several times. No luck. If someone knows what might be causing this or what i can do to fix it, please let me know Thanks! -
So i ordered this bluetooth dongle for my pc because i wanted to use my ps4 controller wirelessly that was about half a month ago i waited so long for it to come and it did,unfortunately tho it didn't work out of the box it would scan correctly but would keep connecting forever this happened with my own computer and my brother's too, so i did a bit of digging around and found a driver that made it work but it had it's flaws it didn't work natively with windows and you need to have the utility app always open for it to work and it also screws with this pc it adds extra bloat to it, so i was asking here if anyone knew how to extract the .inf driver file from the setup file to make it plug and play with native support for windows, i really don't want to return it and wait forever again for one like my brother's to arrive which does work plus and play. anyhelp is appreciated the bluetooth dongle is a csr 4.0 dongle btw i can't attach the setup file because it's too big but i'll link it https://download.informer.com/win-1192477475-c52463cc-68c9eae5/orico_bluetooth_4.0_adapter_driver_cd.zip -
Hey Guys, Ive tried a couple of USB-c type dongles with my Razer Blade Stealth and none of them seem to pass through power for charging. Since i need a couple more of usb ports i really would like to take advantage of the thunderbolt port while still being able to charge it. Isn anyone aware of a dongle that would work with the Stealth since all the Macbook dont seem to work. Thanks so much..
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As the title says, I am trying to find a Lighting to Lighting + 3.5mm audio jack dongle for my iPhone 7, though I can only find very expensive options. I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions for a cheaper solution, or maybe a list of dongles that fit my needs. Any help is appreciated!
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