Search the Community

As the title said, the "pre caseinstall check" was negative on my first build - not very encouraging I found a thread here with a similar problem and tried a "PaperClip Test" with my PSU. The Model is a Silverstone SX1000 (What I've read in the net: The PSU gives a 5V supply in Standby that is used by RAM and the LEDs on the board. But the "Real" components need the 12V line.) When I did the Paperclip test, I hear a clear "CLICK" from the PSU - sounds a bit like a relay. But the FAN does not start to spin. Is this a sign for a defect PSU or will the FAN only start if current is drawn by the real components?

First time building SFF computer. managed to cobble up secondhand parts as follow: Asus Strix B550-i R5 5600X Nvidia RTX 3070 Elsa (from Inno3d) corsair vengeance 3600MHz Iqunix zx-1 Cooler master v850 sfx system has been running fine for about 3 weeks story began when i got an Id cooling Is-50X v2 to replace the amd stock cooler, but it doesn't fit. It interfere with either the RAM or the case. so I put the stock cooler back on, and press the power button. all the fan and LED turns on for one second, and then i hear a click from the PSU, everything turns off. then I start taking everything off one at a time. I found the system refuse to turn on if my 8pin cpu power is plugged in. based on google search that i did, the problem either with PSU, board, or CPU. so i did few checks my cpu, my board, old 750 PSU from old build - nothing my cpu, friend's board, friend's psu - turns on friend's cpu, my board, friend's psu - nothin above checks was performed without cpu cooler, storage, memory, or any usb and fan header plugged in. so only psu, board, cpu, and 24pin board cable, and 8pin cpu cable are plugged in I also tried flash latest bios to the board - flashing success, but still doesn't turn on short the cmos clear header for 10 sec (as per manual) - nothing unplug the cmos cable battery for 1 min, and putting it back in - nothing blast compressed air around the board - nothing check for any dirt, spark mark, or any visible damage on the board, nothing found reached out to ASUS for warranty, they said my serial number is only covered under distributor warranty open the distributor site, and they say they don't handle warranty request directly. need to contact the shop where the board was sold from but i got the board from a second-hand shop, without original receipt of purchase, so i have no idea where the original purchaser got this board from where i live, Asus have 1 year warranty only (compared to 3-5 years in other places), and the box that my board came in, state manufacture date of 2022-06 what can I try to revive this board? or am I just simply S.O.L with this one? thanks!

Hey, Everyone! First Post here! I was going to sell my old PC, when I went to install windows on it, it wouldn't find the SSD, even tho it showed up in the BIOS. I added drivers to the USB, but before turning it on again I switched the sata port on the motherboard. I think I might've pressed a bit too hard because the computer stopped working after that. The cpu and chassis fans both spin, but there is no video output, and I also don't think the motherboard usb ports work anymore. (Because before, the keyboard and mouse rgb used to light up, but after they don't.) Motherboard is an ASUS H110M, cpu is i3 7100, 2x 4GB 2133 DDR4 RAM. Basically I think the motherboard may be dead. I also tested the GPU and it works. Help.

I have a dell optiplex 790, I was watching YT, the video gliched, then the PC restarted. After that no screen, but system is on. I tried different PSUs, RAMs, no luck. Any Idea?

This is the 2nd; vastly improved methodology testing round of using household things as thermal interface material. Variables have been removed and some major changes have been made, as detailed below. Voltage; In this round of testing, voltage was locked close to the stock voltage of this CPU [I5 3570K] at 1120 millivolts. At times this voltage rose to 1128 millivolts, as measured by a multimeter. Cooler; In this round, the stock Skylake cooler has been replaced by a Corsair H55, While the TIM is what we're testing, the water heating until equilibrium should be negligible, as well these tests took place back to back, so the water never cooled beyond the initial 20 heat test conducted with commercial TIM. IHS TIM; This CPU was delidded and had it's stock TIM replaced, for better or for worse, it now has the same TIM as was tested, Jetart Nano Diamond. This was just a paste I bought at a local store and is currently what is in use, it is competent. Test; This test was conducted using all 4 threads of Prime 95 small FFT, for 10 minutes, with a few minutes of before and after. This is very close to before. Results; Graphs have been provided of arbitrary CPU temps as read out by MSI Afterburner, as well as the Min/Max of the coolest and hottest core, on this CPU it was always the 3rd core, for both. Dead Components; This test did claim a victim, my [already faulty] Maximus V Formula has now been rendered very unstable but this, and will be definitely be recycled, If you want it for your wall or what ever, message me and I'll ship you the board [you pay p&p], but remember it's not really working and not repairable, I even washed it to finish the tests. Body Fluids Tests; NOPE, never again, I stopped after the 3rd one, not viable, I won't ever be doing them again. Methodology; Methodology is simple, MSI Afterburner will be used to take a screenshot of arbitrary CPU temps, Realtemp will be used to show max core temps, and throttling. Prime95 small FFT on all 4 cores will be used to generate heat. A Corsair H55 will be used as the cooler, with Push/Pull 120mm corsair fans, the motherboard is an ROG Maximus V Formula. The CPU is an i5 3570K at stock clocks, voltage locked at 1.12v (it's stock varies between 1.096 and 1.112). The RAM, Video Card, HDD and PSU are somewhat irreverent, so I won't list them. Test will run for 10 minutes OR until 2 cores thermal throttle together, 3 cores at any one point throttle, or the CPU permanently throttles to under 3GHz (stock turbo boost is 3.6GHz) The test method has been massively updated and the unrealistic 1.4volt on a skylake stock cooler are gone, in favour of this set up, with temp graphs for the 10 minutes. Actual Results CONTROL, Jetart Nano Diamond, Tests 1 and 2 Test one Pass, H=74°C, L=27°C Normal thermal compound passed fine, this CPU was delitted and uses this compound under the IHS. This is the control, repeated twice Test two Pass, H=74°C, L=28°C second test was consistent with first test. Nothing (no TIM) Pass, H=103°C, L=33°C Not as bad as I thought it would be, I unpowered the pump for a moment to see if it was working, the temp rose on the hottest core from 98 to 103, it still got to 101-103 at highes. Petroleum Jelly Pass, H=81°C, L=27°C Test was only 9 minutes, calculation error. This works well but not quite as good, but grease is sometimes part of TIM, so maybe petroleum grease is close. Bleach Pass, H=77°C, L=27°C Chlorine might be a good conductor of heat in this form, but the corrosion was visible even from this just 12 minutes, do NOT use. 24 Karat gold leaf, Tests 1 and 2 Test Tne Pass, H=77°C, L=32°C *I think I selected the blend of tests for this one* This test, while not reflected in the min/max, was better than the actual TIM in test 1, this is probably because of Gold's thermal conductivity and maluability. Average score was really good Test Two Pass, H=91°C, L=29°C I suspect I selected the blend first time by mistake. Gold work hardens, I used the same sheet, so it's possible that was also a contributing factor in the poor performance. Fairy Washing liquid Pass, H=78°C, L=31°C performed alright, not much to say. Lithium Axle Grease Pass, H=92°C, L=32°C slow temp rise was of concern, might not be the greatest. PVA Glue Pass, H=78°C, L=30°C I bet this will be fun to clean off the CPU [it was indeed a pain]...... For this reason I wouldn't advise this. AquaFresh Toothpaste Pass, H=79°C, L=33°C Classic one that get's quoted a lot, not actually that great it seems Sensodyne Strontium Toothpaste Pass, H=79°C, L=28°C* Room temperature fell substantially for a moment (I had to open a window due to glue being spill), results not affected as I waited for the room to heat back up. Visible in graph Baking Soda and Both Toothpasts Fail, H=105°C, L=27°C DNF. Room temperature is still a little lower. After almost 10 minutes, clocks fell to 2990MHz, after throttling to 3000-3200GHz, and did not rise after 2 updates. absolute fail. WD40 Pass, H=103°C, L=31°C One single core, for less than a second, hit 103, but this is an isolated incident, the coolest core idle is also the hottest under load. Thermal Pad Fail, H=105°C, L=43°C DNF. Test was attempted 3 times, each time throttling caused under 3GHz, and was instantaneous. These pads are very silicon like, more like a dry thermal pad, I'm not 100% if they are, I'll look into it. Shaving Foam Pass, H=80°C, L=29°C what can I say, these all seem to work well... Bodily Fluids..... Ew Out of three tests, two caused a CPU socket short and controlled shutdown. This result in the permanent instability at booting of this board. I actually washed it with WD40 followed by soapy water to try and remove urine and semen traces from the CPU pins, it did end up posting after fiddling, but each boot requires find the DIMM slot that actually works this time. Saliva This is the only 100% and verified test. Pass, H=81°C, L=28°C Nope, these are kinda gross, but they're only going get worse. Urine...... DNF, Lose of data urine seeped into socket pins, causing controlled shutdown, will not be reattempting Semen DNF, Lose of data ew, no. Fun to get, but caused a short in the socket after becoming less viscous... Required a complete socket clean and probably bricked this board, what was left of it, and again, ew I have been up now for close to 14 hours with this, I'm going to bed, please don't hate this too much, A hell of a lot of work, and the third test will introduce a temperature stable environment and a new CPU/Board combo, as well as different thermal interface materials to test, mostly chemicals, metals, and other stuff that I have to sign to get, maybe, it might be hard to actually test it.

I currently have a (or had) an intel i5 3350P with a cheapo prebuilt included motherboard, the specs I was running are as follows; i5 3350P 16GB DDR3 RAM GTX970 Now for some reason my motherboard decided that it was time to die and hence now i'm left with a shitload of ram and a good CPU (for 1080p gaming) but no motherboard, and LGA1155 socket motherboard are EXTREMELY difficult to find where I live, so I decided that if I don't find one i'll upgrade my CPU, RAM and MOBO together. Now I want to keep my 16GB DDR3 ram, which is only possible if I move to an i5 4690K which supports DDR3 or any other LGA1150 socket, which is reasonable, but I can't even find those! (also I don't know if the support is for DDR3L or DDR3? Can someone help me on that? ) The only thing that is available is the 7th GEN CPUs, namely i5 7400, but the DDR4 ram costs about $120-$150 for 16GB (atleast where I live). Do you guys have any suggestions what I can do as my budget is about $275 (RAM, CPU, and MOBO) I don't wanna give up my RAM if I don't have to, thanks in advance !

Hey guys, a few days ago I turned my PC off for the night since I was not going to use it for a full 24 hour period and this was after I had left it on for weeks with no problems. When I went to go turn it back on, it started up just fine and then about 15 minutes later it died. Lost power completely. I looked into and did a couple of things, basic troubleshooting things if you will and got it back up and running. Started playing some games (Dying Light Enhanced Edition) with a friend and about a couple of hours later, it just lost all power and shut itself off again with no chance of revival it seemed. Took it down to my grandmothers since I would be spending the weekend at her place and brought my old power supply. Went through, re seated everything and it was trying to come back to life, but it was a continuous power on and off like it was trying to get going but just didn't seem capable of it. So I switched power supplies (the first one being a 750W EVGA B2 80 cert bronze and the second one being an OCZ 600W 80 cert PSU) and still nothing, a couple of lights turned on and then nothing. Then I decided to take everything out except the CPU, a couple sticks of RAM, and the mSATA SSD that is stuck to the board because I don't have the screw driver to take it out (Where is that iFix it kit Linus always uses lol) and still nothing. TL;DR I think the MOBO is done (MSI Z87-GD65) and I need a new Motherboard. That being said, stores don't really carry LGA 1150 socket motherboard now so I am in the market for some new RAM, a new CPU, and a new MOBO but don't quite know what to get when it comes to the board. Any suggestions on what to look for would be greatly appreciated. also, if anyone could explain what or why this happened, that would be very useful to know and on another side note, the 750W psu is only a few months old because I was experiencing similar problems late last year until I brought it to a friends house and they swapped PSU's and it seemed to have worked. This has been an ongoing issue that I thought originally was a PSU problem but that is not the case anymore. For those who want to know my old specs: CPU - Intel i7 4770k Graphics - EVGA GTX 970 FTW RAM: 2x Hyperx and 2x Kingston 4GB sticks of 1333MHz MOBO (dead I think) - MSI Z87 GD65 PSU - EVGA 750W B2 80 plus bronze. Thanks guys.

I've got an open air case and my neighbor's cat peed on it. The PC was turned on as I was copying files. It doesn't boot nor beeps (after drying for 3 days),but my GPU still has display when tested on a friend's rig. I got a new motherboard and PSU but still nothing. The fans would spin for a sec then turn off-- no post, no beeps. I can't test my CPU on friend's rig as we have diferent sockets. Could that damned cat pee shorted my mobo killed my CPU but not my GPU? Most of it was on my GPU and PCIe x16.

Hi there! I'm new to the forum, but have searched through the troubleshooting section and haven't found something that will resolve my issue. I've just finished my first build, hit the power on button and nothing happened. Nothing to display, no case or CPU cooler fan spinning, no sounds or beeps, nothing! Configuration (all bought new, apart from GPU): CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 Mobo: MSI B450M PRO VDH-MAX RAM: 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 Mhz GPU: Gigabyte Windforce GTX 950 2GB PSU: Thermaltake TR2 S 500W 80+ SSD: Curcial MX500 Troubleshooting steps: - Disconnected all cables and reconnected, no change - Disconnected front panel connectors and tried to turn on by shorting the power + and - with screwdriver, no change - Disconnected all power connectors and used the paperclip trick in the 24pin connector, the PSU did turn on and it's fan started wiring, so I'm inclined to believe the PSU is working. - Disconnected everything apart from the CPU and cooler, removed the mobo from the case, reconnected the 24 pin mobo connector and 8 pin CPU connector and tried to turn on with screwdriver in FP connectors. Still nothing - the CPU cooler fan did not move at all. So since the PSU seems to be working and, even when stripping down to just CPU, it wouldn't turn on, I'm inclined to believe it's most likely a problem with the motherboard, and then, if not, the CPU. During the build, I did have some difficulty with installing the stock Wraith cooler and at one point, the CPU came clean out of the socket attached to the cooler with the thermal pad. But, as I said, it came clean out and I had a good look at the bottom and no pins seemed bent and I was able to reinstall it easily. To get the cooler screwed in, I had to use a bit more force than I was comfortable with, but the motherboard didn't appear to bend or warp much at all. Also, as a side note, I was careful with ESD and wore a wrist strap throughout. No component was dropped, or no screwdriver through the mobo etc etc. Are there any additional troubleshooting steps anyone can suggest, or any alternative diagnosis? I have no other parts at all to try and test with, and currently I'm thinking that the mobo was DOA and will request a refund. Thanks in advance!

So a friend of mine decided to buy parts (against my suggestions) and asked me to assemble the PC for him. Now, this would only be my third time actually building a PC. 1st fail: No P.O.S.T. but progress was made after re-seating CPU. 2nd try: RGB stuff went on finally, but still no POST. Checked all the connections, made sure nothing was wrongfully done/attached in the wrong place then turned everything off. 3rd try: Turned on PSU and upon pressing the power button on the pc case, there was a strange sound ( can't remember what ) but then smoke suddenly came out of the GPU and of course, no POST. Immediately turned everything off and called a technician. Technician said that I shouldn't have plugged both of the 4+4 PIN. I should've only plugged the ONE 4pin because the other 4pin was for "extreme overclocking." Now, the technician has declared the MOBO dead and the GPU "might be fixable." These are his words, not mine. Nothing against the technician but the explanation doesn't sound correct, or at least, complete to me. I thought that if it was an 8+4 pin, then you shouldn't plug in the extra 4 pin if you are not planing on OCing. Can someone enlighten me as to what could've happened? I could've been the one at fault. Parts list below R5 2600 MSI GTX 1650 (2nd hand but still relatively new) MSI B450 MOBO 16GB 3200mhz RAM 700w (unknown brand, not 80+ bronze certified) PSU 1TB WD BLUE 250GB SSD (forgot the brand because it probably wasn't anything common)

Hello guys i could use some help.Today I have bought a new vga an MSI GTX 1050 TiAnd after i put the card in my pc started to freeze at the bios splash and it doesn't react to the keyboard, it doesn't load the bios basically.I tried everything including switching to my old card back but the same thing happened even though it worked before i switched to the new one.Tried reseting the cmos and even removed the battery thing.Tried to remove all my hard drives to see if anythig happens but none worked.And did all the basic stuff like putting it in another pci-e slot (tried with both cards)Oh and the boot_device_led is red.Is it possible that the motherboard died somehow when i switched the vga or was my mobo dying anyways that's why the old card seemed to be failing?Also note that i got many freezes and bluescreens of death with the old card, and after my last freeze, i could no longer boot into windows, so I reinstalled windows, and found out that I can no longer install the VGA Driver because then i'll get a blackscreen and nothing happens. I suspected that my vga was dying and thats why i got a new one

My friend (1) & I built him a new system which he recently upgraded. The original build had a z170 motherboard paired with an i5 7600k. The processor was overclocked. He then swapped out the z170 for a z270 sold the z170 to one of our other friends (2) who then used that z170 to build his own system. Friend (2)'s system ran great for about a month and then all of a sudden it just shut off randomly and couldn't turn back on. We later found that the CPU & Motherboard were fried. I was hoping someone here could confirm or deny the validity of my theory here: Friend (1) had an overclocked processor in the z170 Friend (1) did not reset the board to default before passing it along Friend (2) had a Pentium g4560 in the z170 Is it possible that when the z170 board booted up for the 1st time with the G4560 installed, that for a moment, the board was expecting the overclock-able chip and delivered too much power to the G4560 until it then realized there was a different CPU? Just a bit too much voltage that it didn't fry it immediately but led to the eventual failure of the CPU and, in this case, the motherboard as well. In addition to my original question, when adding a new CPU to a motherboard, how long do the settings in the BIOS stay how they were or do they reset when detecting a new CPU?

So I recently bought all the parts for my new computer. I assembled the pc and first of it wouldn't start, so I cleared the cmos and that apparently helped. I then proceeded to install windows and CSGO. I also installed Corsair link, and then restarted the pc. After that all the fans were going on full speed, I then anyway proceeded to open CS and loaded a map, but as soon as it loaded the pc died. Now all that happens when I try turning it on is a pling sound from the psu. I've tried with a different psu, and running only the bare minimums without any luck. Is my motherboard dead and/or can any of you help point me closer to the problem? Specs: Cpu: Intel Core i7-6700K Skylake Processor Cpu cooler: Corsair Hydro H100i GTX Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M3 Graphicscard: MSI GeForce GTX 970 Gaming 4GB Psu: Corsair RM650, 650W PSU ATX 12V V2.4, 80 Plus Gold, Modular Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2133MHz 8GB 2x4GB

Hello everyone, I fucked up 2 motherboards within 2 months, First was a Gigabyte B360M with i5 8400 installed and the another was a dell optiplex with i3 2120 installed. The common thing was a 5$ 450 watt PSU, and crucial ssd running linux mint and YouTube when both died crashing the video. The PSU still works, so I don't think it killed them that much. So the question is, Can a bad software or glitch kill a motherboard?