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Showing results for tags 'dark'.
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Hii, so on my monitor it in middle of work monitor just like image disappeared and just in corner was dimmed part of display. And i send it to service, and the guy gave me another monitor to have until he fix mine. And still, this monitor also have same problem, its just like it has more power to give any image. Both are used monitors, here is the picture of his monitor in dark environment. And ye, brightness is maxed both on monitor menu and in windows.
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The computer is an Asus f556u and all works perfectly but for the screen, that turns really really dimm (but still on and white/bright windows are still distinguishable) whenever the laptop is unplugged from the charger. I tried setting all energy efficiency and screen brightness to max, I tried updating drivers, i tried only running it with the dedicated gpu, then eith ilonly the integrated one. I also tried changing the battery with a new one. After all this, the problem persists with still no different outcome... And yes, when the screen is dimm, the brightness is set to max in theory. Should I assume it's the mobo that has an issue and give up or is there something else I can try? Thanks l you in advance
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Hello, In my opinion adding a pitch black dark mode as an option alongside the regular dark mode is a good idea. Pitch black dark mode looks better than the current mode which looks very gray. Thanks
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I know it is kind of normal in low end LCD panels and all that stuff, but I am a bit obessive when I see something and was looking for some reasurance from more cultivated people on the matter. I have this C24F390 Samsung curved VA screen that has a very very thin and barely vissible dark top right corner (I think is all on the right edge), actually only visible with high contrast colors, such as bright white and wanted to know how normal this would be. I have not found many people with this model to compare. Thanks, guys!
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So I played the game just two days before for about an hour and a half mostly messing with my characters creation and getting to know the mechanics in Cemetery of Ash. I has no problems whatsoever. Today I wanted to play and move on with the game but it froze. Twice. The screen and sound just froze. I could Ctrl+Alt+Del and click on "Task Manager" but nothing happened. I tried to Alt+Tab to Chrome, or Steam, or the Task Manager but the screen simply was black (first lit black, then pure black as if the monitor turned off). The only screen I could actually see is the blue Ctrl+Alt+Del screen. From there I could restart my computer. I'm starting to lose my patience here because I had a similar problem with GTA V (where if I wanted to Alt+Tab, or exit the game, I would get a black screen and had to turn off the PC manually). I also had a black screen problem with an old GPU of mine some years ago. NONE of my friends have ever experienced something like that, and I have NEVER found a solution for it. Am I THAT F*ING unlucky?:P My Specs: i5 6500 GTX 1070 FTW (card is not overclocked) 16 GB Ram 550W G2 PSU Windows 10 pro 64
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Hello folks! I've been a huge fan of LTT since years but it's my actual first time over here asking for help, thanks upfront for helping me! So I'm planing to build a complete new system with the following pieces and I had a few questions about my liquid cooling loop! Please let me know in the comments if I should post scheme of my ideas or if it's clear enough that way! Ok so here's the big lines: Case: Be quiet Dark Base Pro 900 http://www.ncix.com/detail/be-quiet-dark-base-pro-61-133206.htm Motherboard: Asus Maximus VIII Formula http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-rog-maximus-viii-formula-d5-126247.htm CPU: I7 6700K (Do I need to link that? ahah) GPU: GTX 1080 (I'll need advices picking one for water cooling it!) Ram: 16GB Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-vengeance-led-16gb-2x8gb-88-135582.htm (wathever the color, i'll probably pick red) SSD: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB http://www.ncix.com/detail/samsung-850-pro-1tb-2-5-ce-99906.htm HDD: 4TB 7200RPM (Probably gona go with a WD since I already got a failure on a seagate) PSU: Enermax Platimax 1200W (I already have it in my current computer and I'll keep it) Optical Drive: None, who needs that nowaday! Now as the water cooling setup here are the component i'll use: Radiator1: http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-ex-series/ex360-triple-fan-radiator Radiator2: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-se-240-slim-dual (I'll get the the "why" this one later) CPU block: XSPC Raystorm Pro http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-pro GPU block: XSPC Blade GTX 1080 http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/blade-gtx-1080 Tank: XSPC Photon D5 Pump Combo: http://www.ncix.com/detail/xspc-d5-photon-170-glass-75-91744.htm Pump: See tank FANS: Corsair ML120, no discussion those are simply incredible Big Lines: I want a 360MM Rad for my CPU+PCB and the 240 rad for my GPU, let me know if I should invert that. The 240 MM will be Front mounted as an intake (I know it isn't optimal but I have no choice since I can't botom mount it). The 360MM Rad will be top mounted of course. I plan to place my tank+pump combo right after my 240MM rad (Drive trays will be removed except for one as high as I can place it so everything fits in). Ok so that round up most of my setup now I had a few interogations listed below, please help Question 1: Considering my 240MM rad will be shotting hot air in my case I taught about putting a 120MM fan at the bottom of my case, in the slot closest to the rad since the other one won't be usable due to PSU. That's where came my idea of a really slim 240MM rad at the front, would I be able to fit this fan in? Is it a good idea to try to compensate for the heat driven into the case? I'll use a 120MM rear exaust fan too) but my question is: WOULD IT FIT? Question 2: As mentioned before, should I run my 360 rad for my CPU or my GPU? Because build wise it'd give a much cleaner look if my 240 Rad would be used on my CPU but performance wise is this the best option? Question 3: The tank I picked is well rated, but considering my rad will drive hot air DIRECTLY on it. should I go for a Bayreservoir (5.25 bays) pump combo? Aestecticly speaking it'd be much less apealing.... Question 4: Any recomendation on how to pass my tubing? Note that there is a PCB water block built-in the motherboard I picked (It's copper, I verified ahah) Question 5: That one is an old one... BARB OR COMPRESSION FITTINGS???????? and why? Please do not hesitate to post ANY comment on my build or recomendation all help and opinions is welcome! Once again thank's upfront everyone, let me know what you think! (LET ME KNOW IF I SHOULD DRAW A SCHEME OF MY IDEAS TO MAKE IT CLEARER)
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I just had my pc resetted and after installing chrome I realised that whenever I alt+tab from the desktop to chrome it just goes dark... Anyone knows how to fix this? Thanks in advance
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Here are the parts that I picked out so far. I have already purchased the GPU (because it was on sale for $450), I have a 500 GB SSD, and two monitors listed below. PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CMRcD8 Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CMRcD8/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($308.87 @ Amazon) CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($59.90 @ Newegg Marketplace) Motherboard: MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.49 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($139.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Lenovo - LI2221s 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $868.62 Total: $794.24 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available --- Here's what I had in mind for my build: Gaming at 1440p with a 144hz monitor for any and all games Minor Video Editing, 16 GB is fine for now, but would like the ability to upgrade to 32 GB in the future by adding 2 more sticks. Would like a sleek, dark, subtle look with white/bright accents mostly on the inside. Subtle RGB lighting would be a plus, nothing overstated. White or bright colors would be preferred. --- And here are some additional notes about my preferences: General Preferences: Black/White or bright colors, but the case may be fully black/dark. Again, RGB would be nice if it matches color schemes. Motherboard: 4 RAM slots, USB Type-C would be nice, support for DDR4-3000 + RAM. Not sure if SLI/Crossfire would be needed. RAM: DDR4-3000 or better. CPU: Another component I'm not sure about. Put down the 7700k just to be safe, but I don't know if AMD Ryzen would be the better choice considering what I want to do. GPU: I got my GPU for $450. It was a great price, but I'm wondering if I should sell it and get a Ti. I don't think I would mind gaming at Medium settings for higher FPS, so I don't know if the extra $200+ would be worth it. Another benefit would be having a Ti that would better match my build look. Case: Couldn't find an amazing case, but the case I chose is the closest to what I would like my build to look like. Subtle RGB would be a plus, and I wouldn't mind paying a bit of premium for it. Cooling: Would love to try out water cooling, but I've never done it, and I have no idea how much a good looking water cooling system would cost. --- Would you guys be able to suggest some (perhaps RGB) parts for me to use? Maybe a better looking case as well? Thanks so much for your help in advance
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If anyone of you owns a Dark Base Pro 900, I'd appreciate some info on it's two LED strips? From what I've seen in the tons of reviews, when connected to the controller, they can switch between 5 colors and the off state. Can they actually be connected to the motherboard or a separate controller to produce different colors or color combinations?
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I am trying to use a Dark Rock 3 with LGA 2066, anyone know of an install guide?
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Hey folks, Where is Dark Mode for the forum? I can clearly see Linus having dark mode on the forum in Fridays WAN Show Or am I dumb and he's just using a chrome extension?
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Hi guys, I was wondering if i can change my fan on the bequiet dark pro 3 by these fancy RGB Corsair 120mm ? Will it fit inside ? Anyone can tell me if there are bigger fan ? And does they perform better than the default fan of the bequiet dark pro 3? Thanks guys
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Hey Everyone. So, almost 2 years ago, I built my first PC from scratch - with fairly decent hardware for the time, Intel Core i5 4690k 16GB DDR3 GTX 970 Well, almost 2 years later, and a few modifications later: New Hard Drives New SSD New GPU - GTX 1070 Project Dark Storm is due for an upgrade once again. Gaming, It does everything I need - for the time being, and maybe for maybe one more generation, But I feel that I need to upgrade based on other aspects I am using the system for, such as; Game Development - unity, unreal engine - what ever else my university course decides to teach us... Video editing Virtualisation Servers My i5 just isn't cutting it anymore - and my flat mate said he would by my CPU, Motherboard, Ram and Cooler to upgrade his FX-6100 system. Trouble is, I'm not sure what route to go. Do I go on the mainstream platform and go with the i7 6700k, or do I go to the enthusiast platform of x99 and get the i7 6800k? I do want the extra cores for virtualisation and server use, but is it worth it? - I'd be able to afford the jump, but not too sure if the performance gap is worth the jump. And a second question. My current build - Project Dark Storm, Mark II, It is currently a no frills, no lights, blacked out system (with some slight blue accents). I went this route as I wasn't a huge fan of the red and black colour scheme. But now, I'm considering renaming and re-theming the build, the name I have in mind is "Project Lucifer" or "Project Poseidon", colour schemes Red and Blue respectively. So, to summarise: Which platform, z170 or x99 What theme do I go with Thanks for reading - and I would appreciate the feedback/advice.
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Grab the attached .theme file then double click the file to apply the theme. Or you can copy the following spoilered text into a .txt file and change the extension to .theme using Notepad/Wordpad. It shouldn't affect your backgrounds. It hasn't changed mine. If you check the text or edit the .theme after downloading, you'll see that it's just three numbers that customize the color per item. These are RGB Values. They are in RGB order (red then green then blue). 0 is none, and 255 is maximum. 0 0 0 is black. 255 255 255 is white. 255 255 0 (red and green) is yellow. 0 255 255 (green and blue) is Teal/Cyan/Turquoise/Baby Blue. 255 0 255 (red and blue) is Magenta/Purple. 170 170 170 is a darker grey while 70 70 70 is a lighter grey. If you wish to find a color's RGB value, select it here and read the RGB value listed: http://www.w3schools.com/colors/colors_picker.asp Some items are obvious (like Window, which is the entire background of a window), others are not (like HotTrackingColor, which is the hotlink color, i.e. when there are links in a window to something else). Trial and error or google. The options above the colors themselves are unknown to me, but I think they shouldn't be necessary to adjust to your desired colors. This was found on DeviantArt.com and at http://eversins.deviantart.com/, as it mentions in the .theme file and text. Enjoy. The one I've pasted is my default. It isn't so much about the matrix. Lime green, at least in this context, is just a nice color. Text: File: dark.theme Note that this affects all programs that use Windows' default white background. An example is that I have qBittorrent open and it's the same as File Explorer. Here is an example of the theme I have listed. You can of course adjust it according to your preferences as I've mentioned. I've found some menus are hard to read with these settings, but it's a work in progress for me. 90% of it works fine.
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I was trusting asus all this time to provide a good stock android experience, but my god their inadequacy as a good oem has baffled me. How hard can it be to update a stock version of Android to pie? They delayed the update and security patches so many times, and finally when pie alpha does drop, it still has all the bugs from the pie beta. I still believe, that they can fix and redeem themselves, but in case they don't, i would like to install a reliable custom rom for asus zenfone max Pro m1. My main requirements will be dark mode, dark notifications, dark everything, near stock experience, reliability, and easy and quick updates. Which will be the ideal rom for my case? I havent had any experience with installing custom roms as well so i would also appreciate a simple to follow guide. Thank you
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I can't seem to get my PWM's working, SpeedFan has only worked for me once, so I'll give you the run down. I only have 2 PWM's on this build, one of which is being used for my water pump, the second for my fan hub. Both values can't be changed in the Advanced tab in Configuration, it gives me options I've never seen before, "Always HIGH ($x)". I can't change this value even if I wanted to, every time I tick "remember this" it reverts back to its original value. Did I go wrong with some hardware connections? https://imgur.com/a/jbsbsoR
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Hello! My monitor recently got a dark patch at the bottom of the screen (see attached pic). It's not always there when turning on the screen, but always appears after some time. Is this a hardware issue? I should also note it only happens on my second monitor. Thanks for the help!
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Help, i left my laptop connected to my samsung TV HDMI (but the TV is turned off) overnight and i when i checked my laptop in the morning, there are vertical darkish line on my laptop’s left and right screen corner. I have disconnected the HDMI and i have restarted my laptop but the problem persists. any help or suggestion will be greatly appreciated. The laptop model is Asus Zenbook 13 UX333FA. The unit itself is still under warranty, but I’m hoping to solve this issue without sending the device for repair (ASUS Service Center is known to be very slow in my country and i need my laptop for my study). Thank you
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SO! I won auction on ebay. I bought beQuiet Dark Rock Pro TR4 for... £20. With mounting kit + 2 fans. The problem is, I got AM4 mobo with 1700x on it. And it gets me thinking... Did anyone tried to mount TR4 cooler on AM4? Is it even possible? Should I go with the flow and just mash it together, or it's not worth it? Couldn't find any info on the internets, so maybe anyone else tried that before? Technically, from what I see, only the heat plate is bigger, and I think it could be possible...
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So... I did a thing. Story begins with me, guy who likes DIY but can't afford a proper workshop. Or just don't have a space. ANYWAYS, I was browsing eBay and found a TR4 beQuiet Dark Rock Pro for £20. I thought, hell, it's really cheap. So I decided to buy it. I forgot about it until it actually show up at my doorstep. It is MASSIVE! I loved every single thing about this monstrosity. I had to mount it. But is it even possible? By googling through the vast internet I found like 2 threads about it. 1 says that it's impossible, the other one that you have to be magician with machine working. I'm not... ... but I have Dremel. It all started with checking the holes on AM4 motherboard. Since I'm lazy and I don't have any laying around, only in my main rig, I decided that I'll get measurements from the stock cooler. TR4 Dark Rock has one arm for mounting screws longer than the other. So first one, I just needed to drill holes through it at the ends. No big deal (spoiler alert - massive deal). https://imgur.com/DaGlVUX The other one, smaller, all I needed is simply make holes bigger. Maybe with a simple drill I'll be able to do it? (no.) https://imgur.com/SCQEo8D Now, the main arm needs an extra hole to make sure it will align with holes. (Impossibru. At least without any super strong/special tools) https://imgur.com/jDh2i1I So... Let's do it. First, I have couple of drills that might work. Decided to give it a try. https://imgur.com/SsEN6uW After 10 minutes, all I saw was just a small scratch. I gave up. https://imgur.com/rr4aem8 If I don't have a specific drill, maybe I can just do a hole with a Dremel? It won't look good, but it doesn't have to. It has to be big enough to fit a screw through. Try the first cut: https://imgur.com/RCIa6QR So after incredibly professional job from me, (and destroying one Dremel blade https://imgur.com/m5qkGeq) it came out like that: https://imgur.com/rA5EY5y Oh, so professional! https://imgur.com/Rg1qe6S But wait. I'm not going to leave it all silver and shiny. I need to be professional. https://imgur.com/9DExjzF Brilliant. Now, let's try if the screw will fit: https://imgur.com/Eoyqlma Surprisingly well. But I still have two more parts to destro... I mean, adjust. If I don't have a drill and I can't really do a star again... https://imgur.com/se9qWCX Meh, I'll be fine. And final fit: https://imgur.com/w5Vcj6t Holly crap, it might actually work. Or is it? Well, it's time to check. https://imgur.com/dA19YUP ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- After disassembly of Noctua cooler I did a test fit of my better, improved mounting brackets... https://imgur.com/DdBandH It did not work. I mean, it kinda worked. Long one was surprisingly tough, it could easily hold the cooler, but the small one, I cut too short. What now?! Wait... what about that Noctua bracket? Might work... https://imgur.com/9IvmIBv Well, from test fit I learned two things. 1) I didn't had to get any holes to make it work, 2) 1 screw less never killed anyone (did you ever disassembly laptop and had zero screws left? I didn't, yet they all work). So as a test was positive, I decided to check first without thermal paste. Let's check. https://imgur.com/SyFJYib https://imgur.com/YpxsxmY https://imgur.com/5PL0zpX https://imgur.com/9QNY3is It... works. I think. I need to tight the screws way too much that I like, but it does fit. I can lift a mobo by the cooler, and it has NO movement anywhere. So I'm happy. On this photo, you can even see how IHS makes contact with cooling plate: https://imgur.com/xVXU03R ... or at least you could see, if I had better camera. Redmi Note 8 is not the best for it. Back to DIY. I decided that it takes WAY too much time now, I need to mount it. If I break MOBO, I'll break it, but I need to make it work. So: https://imgur.com/waFEFe1 https://imgur.com/EiWAPC7 (here you can see it makes a decent contact with IHS) https://imgur.com/0yNlW32 (mounted middle fan and front) AAAAAAAAAND! https://imgur.com/NPbhDIG YES! But wait. It did not post... (because I'm an idiot and didn't fastened PCIe extension properly) 2nd try, and... https://imgur.com/arZJKrH SUCCESS! https://imgur.com/Y6tEFF9 Temps not bad... OCCT stress test, after ~ 6 minutes it stabilized around 67*C and stayed there: https://imgur.com/tvBTQxr So after all. The main questions: 1) Is it better than previous cooler? Yes, by 10*C. 2) Was it worth it? No. 3) Am I proud of it? Hell yes. 4) Would I do it again? Yes. 5) Do I recommend it? NO. It was pain in the ASS to do it, but I had fun. And learned that I need to buy some new tools. Hope you enjoyed it. I know I did.
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Hello everyone. I recently bought a new cpu being the 8700. And i've been using the stock cooler (Which is SUPER loud). So i was looking for an upgrade. I decided i wanted either the dark rock 4 or the dark rock pro 4 from be quiet. But i'm not sure if the pro will fit. My motherboard: MSI H370 gaming PRO Carbon I also have 1 ram stick: Balistix Elite 3200mhz 1x 8gb Case: NZXT Razer H440 So will the Be Quiet Dark rock 4 Pro fit and will the non pro even fit?
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Hey guys, I am pretty screwed, I went home last evening, filled with joy and a Dark Rock Pro 3 in my hands, ready to be installed through the night so I could play some games again. I started unplugging my cables, lifting my PC to the desk, and opened it up. I wanted to install the CPU cooler, close it again and have a nice remaining night. But what I got is sadness and depression, as my PC just won't boot, whatever I tried. Here some information: Mainboard: Asus Prime B350-Plus GPU: GTX 1060 MSI, GTX 1060 Gainwand (tried both) RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200MHz 16GB Cooler: Dark Rock Pro 3 PSU: Corsair CS650M I had to use a screwdriver and carefully lift up the backplate of the motherboard, as it was glued on it, which actually surprised me. It is possible, that I damaged something during the process, but I actually don't think so, as I was very careful. I press the Startbutton, and the following things happen: My LED Strip, Fan Coolers and CPU Cooler start to spin, but my graphics cards stay still. From there on I get no signal or anything else. It just stays that way. Using my HDD Led at the Speaker Pins won't do anything and I do not own a small speaker for those purposes. I can buy one though! What should I do next? I was about to try the "Zeromethod" (Don't know if it is called that in English. I am refering to "Nullmethode") Do you guys have any other ideas? Thanks. #Excuse my grammer, I only have 4% left on my phone for the next day and wanted to be quick
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I do use a plethora of applications on my desktop and mobile, particularly i do spend quite some time on forums and chat apps on my desktop. Of course as the name suggests, i use a dark theme everywhere on my desktop. My mobile is still spared as it is used in bright daylight, but once it gets dark it hurts my eyes to use a light theme in the dark. Am I the only one addicted to dark themes or is this basically everyone else?
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