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Does anyone have experience replacing seals or aware of standard sizing? I bought a GTX 1080 founders edition with EK water block fitted, EK supremacy intel water block, 240mm and 120mm copper rads, reservoir and d5 pump and the seals I can see are quite work where they seem to just sit flush with the surface they meant to be sealing. I’d like to replace what seals I can on the fittings and gpu water block. For the water lock a 2mmx143mm seems to be the right size as I estimated the old o-ring at something like 450mm long. For the fittings the old seals seem to be shaped rather than o rings but I think o rings should still work. I measured 11.2mm internal diameter, 16.2mm external diameter and a height of 1.2mm so thinking 2mmx11mm o rings will work. for the tubing I think the sizing is 3/8”x5/8”

I have Black magic sh**t going on, because there is no logical explanation for this. I have both Digital Flow meter with screen and Transparent square Water tank so i can confirm the flow meter results Visually. [and its not PWM, its disabled and hardware monitor in bios shows constant pump speed] 1st Loop Try: 18W LAING DDC Pump inside Bykski Reservoir combo > GPU Block > GTX360 Rad > Heatkiller IV CPU Block > GTS480 Rad > Back to res I had water filter + sliding valve that has small holes around the tube + 5 quick disconnects 0.6L/m 2nd Loop Try: Removed water filter and valve, NO CHANGE 3rd Loop Try: Added Barrow D5 pump Full speed 4800RPM after the LIANG DDC 4300RPM the flow starts strong and then drops back to 0.6 L/m Even with just the DCC by itself enabled, sometimes it would start at 2L/m and the flow is so fast the water looks like boiling, but then it slowly drops. I left to do car test for 1.5 hour, let the system bleed air with 2 pumps on FULL SPEED, came home to see 0.4L/m 4th Loop Try: I get psychotic and remove all QD No change, flow starts strong, sometimes as fast as 4.0L/m and then slowly drops down [again before anyone says the flow meter is broken, i confirm everything visually, when its strong it looks like boiling water and sounds like waterfall, when it goes down, it looks like dripping] MY GTS480 is installed with ports down, I assume maybe air pocket moves and block, i flip the HUGE Phantecks 719 case on its top, small change. 5th Loop Try: I decide to remove the GTS480 from the loop and see if it helps. Now I have DDC 18W full speed/Res combo > D5 Full speed > Heatkiller IV > GPU block > GTX360 > back to res Same thing, flow starts strong and then drops down, I would pull my hairs out if i had any Right now when i type this post, I booted the PC and the flow already dropped to 1.7L/ [102L per hour]and stays there, but its not enough for 2 pumps and thats with LAING 18W DDC running full speed and Barrow D5 running full speed, only GTX360 rad, CPU block and GPU block installed. Guys im loosing my mind here, what can it be? P.S.I plan to disassemble and re-do anyway, need to remove the wifi card from below the shroud, the damn thing has 128 byte payload and it affects all PCIe devices connected to the same switch But im afraid that when i re-assmeble ill return to same situation, I also plan to install the GTS480 with ports up, the GTX360 is at the top of the case so i cant change its position anyway.

Hi, I have EK CLASSIC SPC 160 pump and EK CLASSIC 360mm 27mm thick Radiator. My wife wants to gift me an upgrade, should i get a decent D5 pump or thicker Radiator? My current pump is rated 250L/H and am only cooling the CPU Thanks

Hello there. Before I begin, these are my specs: Motherboard: GIGABYTE Aorus Gaming 7 CPU: Intel i7 8700K GPU: Gainward's GeForce RTX 2080 Super Phantom RAM: 16GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance LPX Black Storage: - Samsung SSD 960 EVO 250GB; - Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus 500 GB; - Western Digital 500 GB Hard Drive; - Western Digital 2 TB Hard Drive. So what happened? Yesterday, I decided to mount a PCI Ethernet card to my PC, because my onboard cards were slowing down frequently for no reason (both the Ethernet and the Killer); I dropped a mounting screw behind the PSU, so I had to disconnect the PSU for 2 minutes to recover it. After I mounted the PCI card, I worked for a few hours, after which I realized that one of my hard drives (the new 2TB one) wasn't displayed. When I tried to shut it down, I noticed that the motherboard and GPU LEDs were staying on, and all the fans were still running. The Motherboard has a small LCD screen with 2 digits, and when this happens, that screen posts a D5 error. According to the manual, that translates into "No Space for Legacy Option ROM initialization". I honestly have no idea what that means. I tried resetting the bios, but I don't know if I did it right. The board has a reset button, which I pressed for like a minute after cutting all the power to the board. The thing is, I'm not sure if I'm supposed to remove the CMOS batter as well. Besides that, I also tried re-flashing the bios. Still, the board only kept detecting the input from one hard drive, which was odd. When it got very late I decided to go to sleep and try more today. I cut the power to the PC again, pressed the reset button for another minute, and left the PC without power until morning. Morning came (about an hour before posting this) and when I powered the PC on, I realized that the hard drive problem was gone. The board correctly detects all my storage now. However, the other problem still remains. The board doesn't properly shut down, and I always have to turn it off by force (holding the power button). I don't know what to do with this one. I refuse to believe the board is ruined, just from disconnecting the PSU for 2 minutes. Has anyone else experienced this? I've attached 2 pictures with my power and chipset settings. Hopefully they help.

So, I have an issue where my system does not properly bleed from air, It feels that this pump is weak for my system, but I had 0 issues with another pump prior to this. I was using http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-420-single-bayrespump Now I am using https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump My question, how is it possible that my old XSPC pump was able to bleed the system mostly withing hours and new EKWB pump is not able to do so with 2 days and very extensive case shaking/turning. I can see water moving in the rez, but there are air bubbles (i don't mean the micro ones) in the tubes and they are not moving or are stuck in one place, did not see this with the old one. Picture of my loop attached. Running 360 rad, 240 rad, 2 GPU and 1 CPU, this was my setup when using the XSPC pump as well, even kept the inlet and outlet on radiators same. Main points where larger bubble colonies form are right between CPU and GPU and right after GPU outlet. If I would use 90 degree fittings somewhere and shorten the tubes could this help? Any ideas, suggestions would be helpful.

I just set up my first custom loop, and I noticed my d5 pump was making a bit too much noise for my liking. Looking at speedfan, I noticed the pump is running at its max (around 4750-4800rpm). I tried changing the fan curve in Speedfan and in the BIOS, but it doesnt seem to help. The red dial at the bottom of the pump does not make a difference as well. I would love to hear your thoughts!

Anybody ever seen a pump decide to run backwards? Mine has done so and it pushing water slowly the wrong way around the loop. Previously (for a year or two) it had run very well in the correct direction.

I'm currently sitting in my living room trying to finish up my computer, I've connected the motherboard, installed my waterblock, my ram, two 480 rads, 8 4-pinned fans, and Now I'm hard stuck. If anyone has experience with costume loops, building a computer or a d5 pump I'd very much appreciate it if you would add me on my skype (william_hertz). My intention is to use my webcam to show you as I'm building and I can hopefully get the answers that I really need. Thanks for your time.

Hi guys. I'm planning to water cool my i7 6700k and my GTX 1080TI. To power the loop i'm using a EK D5 XRES 100 pump, and to cool everything a Nemesis GTS 360 (read that the rad is quite flow restrictive). For rad fans Noctua NF-F12. Wanted to ask you guys as this is my firs loop: At the moment I have the 360 rad. Would this be enough or should I buy a 120 rad as well? How much the 120rad would help in this loop? Maybe 5 degrees lower temps? Also I am worried if the pump is strong enough for all this blocks and rads. Note that I am going for a silent build and would run the pump at maximum 50% and fans around 800rpm or lower depending on the temps. Will have to test pump speed and fans speed to get a good balance between noise and temps. Also I'm not really planning to overclock a lot. Maybe 10%. Thanks

Good afternoon everyone, I've been a super long time lurker but I've now the need to ask a question, so here I am all registered. I've been slowly building my SFF hardline water cooled system for a good 5 months now - the final parts arrived this weekend so I've slowly and methodically been building it up. This afternoon, I finished the loop and am ready to get this shindig underway but after priming the reservoir with 1/2 bottle of cooler-water (dye hasn't been added yet) I flicked the PSU switch to engage the pump to draw the water around the loop - nothing happens. There's no buzzing in the pump, there's no bubbles and no vibrations. I'm running a PrimoChill Rez / Pump combo (D5) and it's never been used before (it was pre-constructed bought from PrimoChill, so I've not incorrectly put it together). The pump has a 4-pin PWM and a molex, both of which are connected. I watched a bazillion videos around this, and I can't see what I'm doing wrong. I have two 6-pin to molex adapters, and have confirmed that they can power a spare fan I have lying around. I have currently tried the following configuration mixtures; Connected to Molex1 / Fan connected to CPU_Fan - silence. Connected to Molex1 / Fan connected to Molex-3pin_Fan - silence. Connected to Molex1 / Fan connected to CPU_Fan via splitter, the other fan is working, the pump is not. Connected to Molex2 / Fan connected to CPU_Fan - silence. Connected to Molex2 / Fan connected to Molex-3pin_Fan - silence. Connected to Molex2 / Fan connected to CPU_Fan via splitter, the other fan is working, the pump is not. Do you think this is a power issue with the pump? I have read around that the pump should engage even without a fan input. Or do you think that the pump is dead? I have connected the whole system up (powered on the MoBo and got to BIOs very quickly and very short span, the fan outputs are reading N/A so I'm guessing it is power related... Happy to provide more information, picture, the works. Any thoughts? Cheers Nik

Hi Guys. I'm buying parts to watercool my pc and I came accross thees two pumps: EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM and EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM Planning to watercool my GPU and CPU with a Nemesis GTS 360 rad and some Noctua fans. I am going for a silent build and I am undecided between thees two pumps. The D5 I think is a stronger pump, but maybe for my setup the SPC-60 will be enough. I am saying this because I noticed the SPC-60 is 25 DB on EK website where the D5 is rated at 33 DB. Which one would you guys go with the setup that i'm planning? Thanks

So I just finished building my first loop, and its all working fantastically, BUT, my D5 pump is making a fairly quiet, but noticeable high pitch noise, like really high pitch. Like, If I was 3-4 years older I wouldnt be able to hear it high pitch. Is this normal and is there any way to fix it? Changing the pump speed doesnt seem to affect it

I've got a big 900D system with 1 loop and I'm thinking of adding an additional 480 rad and 2 more gpus. Would my 1 EK D5 Revo pump be capable of good flow when pumping through a 360 rad, 480 rad, CPU block and 3 gpu blocks? I should mention I'm using 16mm hard tubing and all EK components.

I am planning on running a loop with 3 blocks, and 4 radiators, 3 360 rads and 1 480 rad, is a single Performance Pcs Modded D5 Uber 665 enough for a loop like that?

Hi guys, Searching for a new pump I saw a new brand than I never hear "Barrow", they have a pump with model SPG40A-X and looks like a light version of D5, I think 1.5A@12V and 4000RPM. Someone can tell me if worth it, the price with top on PPCs it's $51.

Hi, I have a question concerning the laing D5 pump. On a ddc is a thermal pad below the pump ( if You remove it your pump burns and dies xD) which can be replaced. My question is if the d5 has one too and where can I buy one?(living in Germany )

Hi everyone. I’ve had a primochill D5 pump for 4.5 years & about a month ago it started making some noises, but maybe for a few seconds at a time & were very subtle so I didn’t do anything about it. Today the pump stopped working completely, it just shut off while I was editing a video & so I took my loop apart & realized it’s slightly out of alignment & a piece of the pump has been rubbing against the side of the pump for a while. I can pop it back into place but when I let go the magnets hold it in it’s wrong position. In the pictures below you can see the white dot is not centered & how it sticks to the wall when I’m not holding it. Anyone have any advice on how to fix it or suggestions? I’m really not interested in buying a new pump especially because I’ve been waiting very patiently for Icelake to build a new PC but I need my current PC in the mean time.

Hi All, Not sure if you will find this useful, but thought I'd share anyway. Currently planning a build where I wanted to mount an EK Xtop D5 horizontally to an acrylic panel i'm creating. I couldn't find a bracket that did this, so thought i'd just make one myself. Using Tinkercad I came up with this: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/aBALrMXiLCv-ekd5pwmmount It's designed to fit snug around the rubber surround EK provides with the XTop. It can be secured with M4 bolts. I created a 8mm countersunk hole allowing you to hide bolt head and nuts. The mount can be used either way, but I designed it so the thicker piece is at the base. Any questions, just ask. Hope someone finds it helpful.

Hello, As I'm slowly but surely scraping together parts for my first watercooling build using Barrows WaterWay in a Lian Li O11, which ironically LinusTechTips latest video featured this. When Barrow released these WaterWay blocks for some cases, they also released the pump SPB 17-T Plus to use with these blocks. Me being skeptical to Chinese electronics, wonder if it's possible to mount a D5 pump to the block using only a fitting, using this inlet or do I need the specific DDC pump from Barrow? Would this work or would the pump cause too much vibration/other side effects? Thanks in advance.

Seemed this topic is dead, how could it be? No one is looking for water pumps cooling? Right now i'm choosing between Cytec 12v and Swiftech MCP655TM. I found only some good information here, but i'd like to know much more of that. Can anyone help me too choose best of them?

Hello, everyone, i am new here in the forum and hope you can help me, in various other forums i was recommended a lot, advised and in the end i sit here next to my PC and am just disappointed. Short facts at the beginning, I am relatively new to water cooling and have informed myself a long time before I built my first custom loop. Short facts about the hardware and how I currently cool it. - Ryzen 3900X @3800MHz fixed @1,125V (~65 Watt) with Watercool Heatkiller IV (copper edition) - Nvidia RTX 2080Ti @2050Mhz @1.1V (~250Watt) with Watercool Heatkiller IV (copper block) - 3x Hardwarelabs Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 Radiator (30mm thick) - 9x Noctua NF-A12x25 fans - 2x Noiseblooker eloop 140mm fans - 2x noiseblocker 80mm fans - D5Next (aquacomputer) - Heatkiller Tube 150 - Hardtubing - LianLi O-11 Air Radiators bottom, top, side, each with 3x Noctua all air intake. 140mm fans in the front blow out to the front, the expansion tank with pump attached to it, the 80mm fans in the rear. Fans scale according to water temperature, but as far as possible quietly, that was at least the goal. If I now use GPU and CPU to full capacity, the water becomes about 42 degrees Celsius warm (room temperature ~25°C). The fans then run in the range of 45-55%. The CPU works then in the range of 75-80°C and the graphics card at about 50°C. But if I let the fans turn only 5% slower the water temperature rises to 48°C. To make a long story short, this is too loud for me and the pump can be heard clearly. I would like to change my system now, and change to softtubes and if everything fits I can put in hardtubes again. My question now is, should I use thicker radiators and in general what would be the best arrangement in the case to achieve a quiet cooling. I'd like to get the Noctua to run at a maximum speed of 800-1000 RPM, i.e. 40-50%. I'm quite willing to buy new radiators, fans etc. as long as I can achieve the goal. I've also thought about an external radiator, but that would be the last option for me. Please help me, I am really desperate, and sorry for my english, i am from Germany THANKS!

Hi, I've read some tips that was thankfully provided by this forum. I appreciate the community here helping newbies like me. So I've made some photos to see If I've understood the flow of the pump well. My main concern is how do I mount the D5 pump on the left side of the Xforma case when using 'theDDC/D5 Pump Mount Sled'. What I thinking is to use a D5 pump on the mount sled to make the loop flow cooling liquid as much as possible. However, my concern is what to use to push the liquid upward to reservoir and the hardware waterblocks. If there anybody to guide me, please lend me some knowledge. Thanks Kim

Hi, its been a long time since I last touched water cooling and my system has been up for about a year now, some parts dating 5 years back. I currently have a d5-pwm all dressed with Bitspower upgrade swag and the “upgrade kit 150” as reservoir. the part that connects the res and the pump-top has started leaking and apparently I can’t just buy that part, I need to buy a whole upgrade kit. so if I’m investing these kinds of amounts, I may be better off with a better solution. So, my question is what is the best reservoir-d5-top-combo thing currently? Am I just batter off buying a new Bitspower kit? or should I look into EKWB, aquacomputer, etc... thanks!

Hello, it's experiment time again How much does the flow rate improve when adding more pumps in series, and how much does it affect the thermals? Those were some of the questions I had in my mind. So, I decided to have some fun, and added two more D5 pumps in my loop to find out. I was curious how it would affect the cooling performance, so I did a little comparison test. Here's my water cooling loop, which should have some restriction in it: - Pump(s): 3x Laing D5 Varios (1x EK-D5 Vario with X- RES 100 combo + 2 x EK-D5 Vario with EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial) - Radiators: UT60 360 mm + UT60 480 mm + Xtreme Nova 1080 mm - Blocks: CPU: 1x Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light Acetal, GPUs: 2x EK-FC R9-290X Acetal+Nickel (Rev.2.0) full cover - Like 5 m of 10/16 mm tubing I was interested in the results at very high OC with high power draw and heat, since that's where the results might matter for me - though I wasn't expecting huge difference in any case. I did the tests as follows. First, before installing the additional two pumps in the loop, I ran the tests with a single D5 at speed settings: 1, 3 and 5 (max). I should mention, that the D5 kind of stalls (at least mine does) to a very low speed and vibrates more when you set it to as low as it goes (it almost goes below 1) so I ran it at something like "1.2", where it runs nicely and quiet, as the lowest setting. Next, I added the two pumps with the EK dual top in series after the original pump with res combo and ran the tests with all three pumps at 5 (max). I tested my CPU and one of my GPUs (other card was not powered on) separately. For the CPU (i7 3970X Sandy Bridge-E six-core) I dialed in settings 5.0 GHz @ ~1.5 V and ran Prime95 with AVX small FFTs for the maximum heat output. For the GPU (AMD R9 290) I dialed in settings 1300 core, 1600 memory @ ~1.5 V (1250 mV + 250 mV with reduced Vdroop bios) and ran Furmark @ 1080p for the maximum heat output. I used the digital PSU Corsair AX860i to log the temps and other data. Max system power draw (coming in the PSU) for the CPU only test was ~650 W and GPU only test ~1000 W. I ran each test for 3 min and logged the data with intervals of 30 seconds. Also, at each corresponding 30 seconds I manually wrote down the water temperature to excel file. This way I got six data points for each individual test with CPU and GPU temperature, power and water temps data. For the CPU temperature value, I used the average of the six core temps. Finally, I calculated the difference to water temperature for each of the six data points, and took the average of that for the final result. Here's what I got: Now something to note, is that the ambient temps (around 20-22 C) were not controlled or measured which affect the Tmax values, that represent the max temp that CPU or GPU reached during each test. The test were done in order from red to blue and I think the room was a bit colder during the triple pump test. Also the water temp probe is a basic cheap inline one with resolution of 0.1 C, but the actual accuracy and response time is questionable. Anyway, the theory behind flow rate improving temps is the same as with more air flow improving temps. Basically, you make the boundary layer on the cold plate surface thinner and move more cool liquid in proximity of the cold plate surface (and heated liquid away), which improves the convection of the heat. Besides the cold plate, this should also result in the radiators working more efficiently for the same reason, resulting in additional reduction in temps (but you don't see that in component temp delta to water temp). However, consider you have infinite radiators and flow rate, which would keep the water temp and the cold plate inner surface at the ambient temp. You would still have certain temperature difference between the component and the water, which depends on the component heat output and thermal resistance from the component to the inner surface of the cold plate. Depending how close you already are to this situation, where you can keep the cold plate and radiators inner surface close to water temp, determines how much more you can improve the temps just by rising the flow rate. As you can see, temps didn't improve too much for the CPU going from 1 pump to 3 pumps, but the GPU still saw some improvement. Also the CPU and GPU improved approximately in the ratio of their heat output. Obviously, the result will be greater the bigger heat concentration you are dealing with. I've been thinking of doing some oc runs with cold water... So one thing to consider, is that the water viscosity is 2 - 3 times greater at below 5 C compared to the normal 30 - 40 C one would expect in a loop. Higher viscosity directly decreases the flow rate, which additional pumps will help to overcome. Bonus - Had fun bleeding the system with triple D5, I think this is the first time I didn't need to tilt my radiators/case at all to get all of the air easily out.

In my custom loop I'm going to have 2 560mm radiators (just to make it silent) 2 gpus and a cpu plus a filter can a single d5 support that I'm completely willing to go with 1 560mm if I have to. rad https://www.amazon.com/Hardware-Labs-Black-Nemesis-Radiator/dp/B0735D3VYB?SubscriptionId=AKIAIZRRM2S5C4MRX3FA&tag=mdnd153-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0735D3VYB pump https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16835106370?ignorebbr=true&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile-_-pla-_-DIY+Cooling-_-N82E16835106370&gclid=CjwKCAiAmvjRBRBlEiwAWFc1mKqJgJbMJQTbl96sTfJL2W4dGYWdnrvTI2HMdOj1ZjrkJt5PIRG3gBoCio8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds