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I have enabled ErP mode in bios to turn off the led lights on the LAN port when the pc is off. My question is does enabling the ErP mode drain the cmos battery? When the ErP mode is disabled it feeds some power to the motherboard when the pc is off. Does it also feed power to the small memory that stores the bios settings? If the ErP is then enabled will it cut off that power feed, making the motherboard to only use the cmos battery to keep the bios settings? I haven't found any clear answer about this when googling for it. I have an Asus B760-Plus D4 motherboard.

My pc won't start unless i disconect my pc and remove the motherboard battery wait a few minutes puts the battery back and reconnect the pc. Any sugestion on how to fix this problem would be welcome because this situation is a pain in the ass. Thanks for your time, Pastrami Sandwich

I've had my computer for a few years now, and the past few months it has started giving me some trouble. The booting has become inconsistent. When pressing the power button, it tries to turn on, the fans spin, and then it turns off. It enters a loop of trying again, then stopping. Sometimes it completely stops, and sometimes it seems that it could continue indefinitely had I not turned off the power supply. It's a pretty weird description, so I attached a video. The second (short) attempt in the video was on its own. It often has longer attempts, and sometimes they last until I turn it off manually. From time to time it works, and I've managed to find a pattern, but not solve it. First, initially I had my CPU cooler connected to the CPU fan header, at the top of the motherboard. It usually started spinning precisely on attempts when the computer managed to post. I was scared at the start, as I thought it was a fried fan header (although, in that case, why would it sometimes work?). But then I switched it to different headers. Some didn't work, while one header consistently got it to spin (this is the one it's connected to in the video). Since the computer still didn't post, I think it's not related to the fan. Maybe I should also mention that when connecting case fans to the headers that didn't work, they only work once the computer posts, and not on the failed boots. Sometimes, something simple like turning the PSU off, waiting a few seconds, and trying again, works. The weirdest thing is that it had a tendency to work when the side panel was off, but that's probably a coincidence. I did test the PSU, though, using its "self test" option. It passed the test, so I don't think that's the problem. Another weird thing that worked is "clearing the RTC RAM", by using a jumper on the motherboard. I am not sure what that is, but when looking for solutions, I saw it in the motherboard manual. It worked for most of my attempts pretty quickly. It's only today that it didn't immediately work, and it took a few attempts until I managed to get it on. Lastly, after moving the CPU cooler to another fan header, I noticed another sign when a boot attempt is about to succeed: usually the GPU lights up white as soon as the computer tries to turn on, but on successful boots it becomes purple, which is the customized color I have for it. From looking up, I found a few possible things. When looking at other people getting boot loops, it seems it could be related to the CMOS battery. I think it's related to clearing the RTC RAM, so maybe replacing the battery is the solution. However, before doing that I want to hear a second opinion. From other people having a problem with the boot but the computer working fine, I got the idea it could be one of the parts about to break (possible, since the computer is getting old). Specifically, either the CPU, the PSU or the motherboard. It could be the PSU, despite the self test being fine, since the guy in the answer said it could be related to short-time voltage drops which testers can't detect (it's DRagor's answer from https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/inconsistent-booting-but-once-it-boots-it-runs-fine.3218811/). My main guess is the motherboard, but I don't want to get a whole new computer before checking other options. There are some differences with my situation and other people's situations. None of the error LED's on my motherboard light up, neither on failed nor on successful boots. The only one that sometimes lights up is the CPU LED, but it's only after clearing the RTC RAM, and it's probably because it freaks out my CPU cooler is not connected to the fan header (it turns off after I tell it to not monitor the CPU fan). Some of the other forum questions I found about boot loops also mentioned trouble after the PC is running, but after a successful boot, as long as I don't put my computer to sleep, it can run for a long time with no problem. It's only the initial boot, and exiting from sleep mode, that it has a hard time doing. If I don't turn it off and don't put it to sleep, it can just keep working fine. This also makes it seem weirder for me that it's one of my components about to break, since then I'd expect performance to drop. My system specs: Asus Sabertooth X99 motherboard i7 5820K CPU (not overclocked, base voltage) GTX 1080 BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4 cooler Corsair AX860i PSU And in case it somehow matters (since the problem is after pressing the power button, so maybe...?), Cooler Master Mastercase Pro 5 case. VID-20230310-WA0002.mp4

hello everyone :) I recently upgraded my pcs mobo and cpu to an i7 9700k and a rog strix z390-f gaming mobo (I took these parts from my partners Scan 3XS system so they have been professionally overclocked) but i have been finding im having booting problems after a BIOs update. This only happens maybe every other day but its enough for me to be concerned. When i boot my pc, the screen will not turn on and remain black and i get a green light next to boot on my mobo. The only way i can get my pc to boot is to unplug my index from my GPU and restart. The problem with this is each time this happens, bios will reset and doesnt detect windows so i have to go into bios and reset up my pc to be able to boot windows. I feel like there can be a few culprits to my problem. The first thing i think it may be is having my index plugged in on boot, but this has never been a problem before and id rather avoid unplugging my headset from my gpu each boot as not to damage the display port. Secondly, could this be a problem caused by a dying cmos battery? Im not too sure on this since the time does not reset after turning my pc off. Thirdly, could this be a problem with my boot drive? and lastly, is this caused by a bad BIOs update? I'm not sure what to do next to fix this problem, but any suggestions are appreciated.

For the past 2 times I've booted my PC after unplugging it, my time in Windows has been incorrect. Been either several hours ahead or behind of current time. And today I got a BIOS error after booting(can't quite remember what it said, panicked a bit and booted into the UEFI). However, it disappeared and booted back to Windows after I just quit without saving in the UEFI. But after rebooting into UEFI again, I noticed that seemingly every setting I've made got reset, except for my boot device order? Due to my current situation, I leave my PC every other week for (usually) another week. And in that time I unplug it completely from the wall just to be safe in case there's a big surge or thunder. I've done this since I built my PC in June 2017, but has this drained my CMOS battery way quicker than the usual 10+ years they're supposed to last? I've read around online that unplugging your PC regularly for extended periods of time can cause it to drain way faster without AC power due to modern hardware. Or does this sound like something else? Relevant specs: Motherboard: ASUS Z270 ROG MAXIMUS IX CODE (running version 1501, latest) CPU: i7-7700K RAM: Corsair vengeance CL15 16GB DDR4 300Mhz Rest of my specs are on my profile.

Hello all! I recently got a used Gigabyte mATX h110m-a motherboard off eBay to start my own dedicated linux server. I already had an i5 7400 laying around, and found it useful for such an occasion. I ordered some cheap ram from crucial and a corsair psu (cv series), both of which seem to work fine. The motherboard arrived today, and I checked to see if everything was working before putting into the case. However, I ran into an issue where the fans would power on, but there would be no display output. This would happen repeatedly until I turned off the power supply. After replacing the CMOS battery, and resetting it, I ran into the same issue. I suspect that the motherboard may be to blame, but I did not want to jump to conclusions yet. The CPU is known to be working, I took it out of an old PC we used for the business and kept it for personal use. Any ideas on what I could do to solve this issue? Video of the issue: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Oi4XWCOvMR7nZo7nVbuTJjdoW1nLH9Do/view?usp=sharing

My nephew's birthday is coming up, but he's still rather young so I decided to give him an old HP laptop of mine model dv6253cl. Aside from being slow for its age the laptop worked fine the last time I started it up, though that was about a year ago. Now it isn't starting up at all. I looked up online to see how I might be able to get it to turn on again. I've replaced the AC power cord/adapter, I've replaced the CMOS battery, I've done the whole pressing and holding the power button for a minute. I've also checked and reseated the RAM modules. But still the laptop refuses to power on. I know it's getting power, because the power indicator is showing. I just won't turn on. I could really use some recommendations.

Hi My motherboard is ecs h61h2-m2 v1.0 and whenever i turn on my pc it always ask me to set time and date so i set it up but the next time i boot up my pc it will ask me again to set the time. Then i thought its just CMOS battery problem but i replaced my motherboard with cmos battery 3 times already but still having the issue of setting the time and date..even if i save my settings on the bios as user profile it just doesn't work. Is their any way to fix this? Thanks!

Hello, After replacing the CMOS battery in my computer due to BIOS settings not being saved after disconnecting the power cable, my Asus PCE-AC68 is not being recognized. In Device Manager, if I click "Show hidden devices" I can see it, but with the error code "Code 45". I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling drivers, doing a network reset, removing it from my PC and putting it back into the PCIE x1 slot on my mobo. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Here is a list of my PC Specs: · CPU – Intel Core i5 6600K Quad 3.5GHz Unlocked (Overclockable) · CPU Watercooler - Corsair H75 High-performance CPU Cooler · RAM - Corsair 32GB (4 x 8gb) 3000MHz Vengeance LPX Blue · Graphics Card - EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC GAMING · Motherboard - MSI H170A Gaming Pro LGA 1151 · SSD 1: Samsung 500GB SSD 860 EVO · SSD 2: Samsung 250GB SSD 850 EVO · HDD 1: Toshiba 3TB 7200RPM HDD ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual Band Wireless · Case: NZXT S340 Elite Matte Black · Power Supply: SilverStone ST75F-GS 750W Strider Gold Power Supply · OS: Windows 10 Pro 64bit

Hello, I have an Acer Aspire X3475 that has been left unused for almost 3 years I think, the CMOS battery is most certainly dead and I have so far gotten rid of the thermal paste. Tomorrow I am going to buy thermal paste for the CPU and also a CMOS battery if I can find a CR2032. I have three questions, do I need an expensive thermal paste rubbing alcohol to clean the CPU or is it possible to use a dry cotton swab to clean it? The last question I have is, does it matter which way I put the CMOS battery in the socket? Ask anything that could be important related to this if I need to elaborate. (Sorry for the nasty insides.)

Greetings reader, I brought a rather lengthy post to you lovely lads and lasses. I have an issue with my good old Maximus VI formula and I'm kinda stuck with my investigation. Someone here might be able to help out with a few ideas, pushing me closer to a solution to this puzzle. Also, describing the process though which I arrived where might help out others having similar issues. Hell, at least it might start an interesting conversation. I bought this board back in 2013 with a 4770K which I later upgraded to a 4790K which I could overclock to 4.8Ghz all core without it breaking a sweat, I was very happy with the machine. It has been a very dependable workhorse over the years. A year or two ago, I started having issues with the system. It randomly turned off while being used (regardless of the operating system, I have been dual booting Linux and Windows on it the whole time) and interesting enough, it also randomly turned on from being shut down (power off proper, not sleep). Not very pleasant waking up at 3AM to the geezless thing beeping like a happy bird. Back then I had many suspicions. I looked around on the interwebs and my findings mostly pointed at the PSU. I had little time to investigate in detail, also, my PSU was a CoolerMaster GX750 which I never trusted from the beginning (was given instead of a Corsair that I ordered but the retailer went out of stock) so I thought after 5 years I might as well get a new one. Threw a Corsair HX750i at it. Happy days! At least so I thought. Then I woke up at 1AM hearing the beeping again. Bummer. After a lot of scratching me head, browsing reddit, I noticed someone having similar issues due to a flat CMOS battery. After taking the entire motherboard apart to get to the bloody battery (cheers Asus...) I pulled it out, measured it and sure, it was flat. Popped a new one in and Bob's your uncle. Happy machine again, no problems whatsoever. A month or two ago, for justifyable reasons I decided it's time to upgrade, I bought a new case, mobo, cpu, all the fancy stuff. I also keep this machine running, it is very useful to extend my workflow, I have a good use for it. However, it seems to have gotten mad at me for becoming the second... The random on-off issues started shortly after I built the new machine. Since the issue was known at this point, and the battery I put in was some cheapo from the closest keystore, I just popped a new, better quality one in there and all was good... ...For approximately 14 hours, after which the machine started by itslef, then went into a random on-off cycle. At this point you probably ask "well what the hell are you complaining about, you know the solution". I know the solution, but not the cause. The solution so far is swapping the CMOS battery on a daily basis in order to use the machine. Something is certainly not right. Without CMOS battery, the system boots, but after a short period, it powers down, like someone had pressed the off button. The off button is not to be blamed, disconnecting the front panel connectors makes no difference. The symptoms were the same before and were fixed by the battery swap, and a new battery certainly helps for a while. My thoughts on why the machine turns on/off: I think there is a voltage fluctuation/instability/drop somewhere. Either this corrupts the part of the CMOS which is responsible to store flags to signal to power the machine on in certain scenarios (sets flags for booting up after a memory/cpu reconfiguration, etc) or simply the microcontroller that is responsible for these things is struggling. When the machine turns on or randomly reboots, it boots, goes straight into bios, or I see a message "Overclock unsuccessful" or something like that. It's inconsistent in what it does, so it isn't a stuck/dodgy button or something similar. So why do I suspect a voltage fluctuation? The battery draining this fast is obviously suspicious. If a dodgy capacitor is leaking somewhere, the voltage across relevant circuits may be too low, causing all this weird behaviour. I have basic, mediocre at best understanding of electronics, and though I have a few things laying around (multimeters, soldering equipment, SMD rework gear, osmelloscope, simple PSUs, the usual box of random crap, etc.), however, I don't know how I might be able to diagnose/investigate/find out where the issue is. Which capacitor might be dead, where to even start. I was thinking to borrow the imaging thermometer from my company for a weekend, however, i suspect that the leakage is such low power that it wouldn't really stand out on the images. I managed to find the board view (attached, boardviewer.net) and a weird repair document for the board (also attached, says rev 1.01 but should be applicable), but these didn't lead (me at least) anywhere. For instance, if I select the battery positive pad on the board view, the entire board view image lights up like a christmas tree indicating that the circuit is all over the place. From that I assume that the problem can be anywhere, including that area under the toilet seat, you know, the one you can never clean properly and buggers the hell out of you. I might be just blind and I don't see something obvious here, but that is probably coming with age. So lads and lasses, This is how far I managed to get. Any ideas, suggestions, comments, thoughts are welcome! I would like to fix and keep this system going. It must be some cheap wee component failing but it puts a (still) £400 system on it's knees and I would really see it as a huge waste throwing it all away just like that. Thank you very much indeed for sticking with me and reading all me brain farts! Oh, by the way, if you were wondering what idiot takes the motherboard out of the case, then removes the heatspreader/plastic covering off more than two times to replace the CMOS battery, I'm pleased to tell you it's certainly not me. Gaze upon the glory of my CMOS battery service window modification. MAXIMUS_VI_FORMULA_1.02C.fz Asus Maximus VI Formula Rev 1.01A Repair Guide.pdf

All this started when I rubbed the case with my socks accidentally. In the first instance, the PC has rebooted automatically, I didn't notice that I was the culprit. Before I got realize of it, I caused unconsciously to my system to reboot automatically again a couple of times with the same method (ESD, socks). After all the research, I found an answer, I was the reason of the event. The hell doesn't ends here. Several months later with not been rubbing the case (Now aware of my actions). Afterwards an AFK for a while, the screen was totally still without any kind of response (Mouse and keyboard). By pressing the boot or reboot button, I could recover the system back to normal, there is no another way. This only happens (Sometimes) when I'm not using the PC, of course including opened programs. This issue makes presence only on IDLE (Me away from the PC), even in a heavy videogame (Once in FFXV, in pause). I've tried everything: FurMark at full, Prime95 (Each test within 10 hours), MemTest x86 in 10 hours, clean the dust, CMOS battery removal (With all the components connected obviously), BIOS update to the latest, BIOS reset by changing pins, reinstallation of the whole hardware, back to the default values the BIOS, Update all drivers, format the O.S., and I can't remember the rest. Something is telling me that the CMOS battery could be damaged by all the static that it received in those moments. I don't know what else to do. I came from How to Geek and Tom's Hardware and nothing help me in a way. So, this forum is my last hope. My build: Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth Z170 S (Revision 1.xx, (8th January, 2016)) BIOS: 3504 O.S.: Windows 10 Pro x64 Build 1709 CPU: i5-6600K 3.5GHz Skylake-S CPU Cooler: SteelSeries Hyper 212 HDD: WD Blue 1TB (WDCWD10EZEX-08WN4A0) Socket: 1151 LGA GPU: GDDR5 Gigabyte GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2400MHz 16GB on dual channel, each one of 4GB PSU: EVGA SuperNova B2 850W (110-B2-0850-V1) Regards

All this started when I rubbed the case with my socks accidentally. In the first instance, the PC has rebooted automatically, I didn't notice that I was the culprit. Before I got realize of it, I caused unconsciously to my system to reboot automatically again a couple of times with the same method (ESD, socks). After all the research, I found an answer, I was the reason of the event. The hell doesn't ends here. Several months later with not been rubbing the case (Now aware of my actions). Afterwards an AFK for a while, the screen was totally still without any kind of response (Mouse and keyboard). By pressing the boot or reboot button, I could recover the system back to normal, there is no another way. This only happens (Sometimes) when I'm not using the PC, of course including opened programs. This issue makes presence only on IDLE (Me away from the PC), even in a heavy videogame (Once in FFXV, in pause). I've tried everything: FurMark at full, Prime95 (Each test within 10 hours), MemTest x86 in 10 hours, clean the dust, CMOS battery removal (With all the components connected obviously), BIOS update to the latest, BIOS reset by changing pins, reinstallation of every hardware, back to the default values the BIOS, Update all drivers, format the O.S., and I can't remember the rest. Something is telling me that the CMOS battery could be damaged by all the static that it received in those moments. I don't know what else to do. I came from How to Geek and Tom's Hardware and nothing help me in a way. So, this forum is my last hope. My build: Case: Thermaltake Versa N21 Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth Z170 S (Revision 1.xx, (8th January, 2016)) BIOS: 3504 O.S.: Windows 10 Pro x64 Build 1709 CPU: i5-6600K 3.5GHz Skylake-S CPU Cooler: SteelSeries Hyper 212 HDD: WD Blue 1TB (WDCWD10EZEX-08WN4A0) Socket: 1151 LGA GPU: GDDR5 Gigabyte GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2400MHz 16GB on dual channel, each one of 4GB PSU: EVGA SuperNova B2 850W (110-B2-0850-V1) Regards

Hey guys, I need some new input. Well, the title is pretty self-explanatory. My PC wouldn't start, it turns on and shuts off immediately. What happened the night before: for some reason arch linux went sleep and I couldn't wake it up so I kill-switched it with PSU on-off switch (don't think that's the cause or is it?), so the morning I push the start button and voila, it won't start. PSU makes a "click" sound, Q code shows 00 and the it shuts down. Narrowed down to 3 parts: MOBO, CPU and RAM. Everything else is literally unplugged. The PSU tested on my other PC, works just fine. Visually inspected MOBO, looks normal. No smell. Checked for loose cables. SPECS: ASUS ROG STRIX X299-E GAMING Intel i9 7900x GSKILL 8*8GB Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz 850 EVGA G3 GOLD SOLVED What I did was remove the CMOS battery and followed the "Clear RTC RAM" instructions.

I was given a Dell Inspiron 1501 that had been sitting on a shelf for 5 years collecting dust, but it wouldn't start up at all. The fan, ODD, and HDD all spun up, but the disk wasn't being accessed and nothing came up on the screen. I took it apart, cleaned the dust out, reapplied thermal paste, reseated the CPU, and replaced the CMOS battery. The primary battery was completely dead and wouldn't charge, so we replaced that as well. I know that dust can become conductive if it builds up, so was it fixed by replacing the battery, or simply by cleaning it up?

Hello, so basically my PC wouldn't turn on, as last hope before taking it to a computer guy I saw a video about removing the CMOS battery could solve my problem. So I did it, and when I removed it and try to turn the PC on it would turn on, so all my hopes down, I put the battery back in place and tried one more time to turn it back on, and to my surprise it did, my HDMI cable wouldn't display the PC on the monitor, so I used a DVI or VGA which I don't know what's the difference, I got sent to the BIOS, I was afraid to change anything, not even the time and then went to Save changes and exit, now I am stuck in a Windows 10 logo, no loading circle, nothing, please what do I do, is it safe to turn my PC off and back on to access my BIOS and change something?

my computer wont boot past the DELL screen so i did some research and it may be the CMOS battery caused because when i enter the BIOS setup it say something like CMOS battery failure and other CMOS thing crap. Then I decided to replace the CMOS battery but it still not working.i dont know what caused the problem. It also sometimes make this loud fan noise when on the computer Its a Dell Dimension 4700 BIOS version A09 from 2009 dont tell me to buy a new computer.

So everytime I need to restart my computer is have to take the battery if the motherboard then return it using the following steps 1 power of unplugged with power supply off 2. Remove battery 3.return it 4. Plug in power up I have placed a new battery into the motherboard (MSI Z77A - G43) running intel i3 3570k Ddr3 ram 8gb