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Hello all, Need your opinions, busy with a new build. Need some input on the CPU + Motherboard. Which would you use? and also if you could say why you would recommend that choice. These are the options available in my location INTEL Intel i5 13500 - BX8071513500 MSI PRO Z690 - PROZ690-ADDR4 AMD AMD Ryzen 5 7600 - 100-100001015BOX MSI PRO B650M - PROB650M-AWIFI Thanks in advance
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Hello LTT community. It's been a long time since I was present. I'm now calling for some help. I've been experiencing some random crashes on Skull Abyss Phase One; primarily when I'm not actively gaming. When I come back into my computer room; I come into the Windows 10 login screen. I know for a fact I haven't restarted my system at all. Down below are Skull Abyss Phase One's system specifications, I have also uploaded a copy of the most recent dump file I was able to get a hold of. I would definitely like to get this issue resolved. Graphics card driver in use right now is Adrenalin 23.7.2 072923-9671-01.dmp
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I am looking for keyboard recommendation! I am not keyboard geek so pls forgive my ignorance concerning terminology and the like. I like the key profile of the compaq keyboard shown in the attached pic. I like the feeling of a Dell Latitude 2120 keyboard's keys. I want RGB. I would like standard media keys somewhere (play/pause, next, previous, volume up down mute, etc.) whether on function keys or separate. I am used to size keyboard from Dell Latitude 3160 to standard odm dell keyboard. I prefer not to spend a whole lot – preferably under $40-50. Must have numpad with numlock, function keys, and arrow keys in normal position. Also I'd prefer a little bit smaller than normal size (referrig to the compaq and dell key oard as normal here). Thanks in advance!
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Recently, my Yeti X started disconnecting whenever I played back a project file in DaVinci Resolve. It does not reconnect again until I manually pull out the USB cable and plug it back in. So far, I have not managed to reproduce the error with any other app, but the Yeti is not found in the standard system settings or the Logitech app either, which makes me think that this might not be an issue with DaVinci resolve. I updated Windows 10 to the latest version, tried other cables and USB ports, and I even updated my BIOS, since I found that suggestion in an old post. I was going to revive the post, but the forum UI told me that I should make a new post instead. I linked the post below anyway. I couldn't find any other suggestions on other posts on other forums regarding the issue (except for the "new cable" / "other USB port" suggestions). Can anyone help me with this? It is super annoying. I am trying to edit a video and it cuts out all the time and plays the audio on the speakers super loudly, because it cannot find the headset that is connected to the Yeti anymore. Thank you in advance to anyone who might know what's going on! Link to the old post:
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From the album: My Build, the beginnings
These are the 2x8GB DIMMs I have been using for a while. I changed to the Anniversary RAM because it fits my build a LOT better.© TPaliciusV
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From the album: Cars N Stuff
The front side of a Aston Martin DB9 (Hey, atleast it still keeps its original grill)-
- aston martin
- db9
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From the album: Cars N Stuff
The backside of a Aston Martin DB9 that's Blue (Very um, Aston Martin-ish)-
- aston martin
- db9
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From the album: Alienware m14x
A picture depicting my desk featuring the Alienware m14x gaming laptop. The image is a little over 6 months old, but still accurate. -
From the album: Alienware m14x
A picture depicting my desk featuring the Alienware m14x gaming laptop. The image is a little over 6 months old, but still accurate. -
From the album: Blue Dragon
Just a brief snapshot of my current PC. I have it cooled on air only, no watercooling. CPU cooler is a Zalman 90mm open fin cooler. Current rated Athlon X2 64 base clock is 2.7ghz ... Overclock'd to 2.9Ghz... Yes I have a Radeon HD 6770 in as my primary card and also am using the IGP, Radeon 3300, 128mb as a linked graphics card. Giving me 1152mb of graphics memory. It's an old rig (PC) but it works great for games like WoW, Warframe and GTA 4, etc... New rig coming in the near future... -
If i put this in the Wrong Topic Please no hate just tell me, lol Hello, I've had my Blue Spark Digital For a long time now 3-4 years. I've unplugged the mic and replugged it and *Poof* Stopped working, so i looked into it and the pins where bent, so i tried to repair it had no luck.. contacted blue for a new cable and they said they don't have any because it has not been in production for a while now, so no replacement cable. So i came on the idea to just hardwire / solder a normal usb cable to the internals of the Mic, it would maybe be an inconvenience but I'm okay with it and don't have the money to buy a new mic, and the sound quality it still really good. But the ONLY problem is, i don't know where i should solder the Power + / Power - / and Both Data Cables. So i came here with a hope to get some help. I attached Pictures of the inside of the mic, If anyone could help and need more info / pics just tell me. Thank you in advance.
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I recently got a Blue yeti x and i've been using my old Astro A50s to monitor and get audio, and now that i am not on console I want to get some studio style headphones. I currently have my eyes on the Audio-Technica ATH-M50x but i have 2 questions. 1. is the 1/4 plug necessary, and if it is what do i need? 2. could my mic handle it or would i need something like a audio interface?
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i want a good mechanical keyboard that can be shipped in india ( TKL or 60% with reliably usable Fn 1-12 row or layer) i have a option on amazon.in https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B08G1QVK9D/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A14CZOWI0VEHLG&psc=1 -2200 rupees i need something like this or better max i can go including shipping is 5000 rupees or 70 dollars i dont care if its not a indian site and have to get it shipped from somewhere as long as its in my budget personally i want brown or blue switches and optionally individual backlight and some software of some sorts i would love it if the switches and key caps are hot swappable i cant seem to find anything better if someone has some recommendations please share it with me thx in advance
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- keyboard
- mechanical
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Hi guys, I'm just noticing this as of today, I have a blue hue on my 49 inch TV screen and not sure where it's coming from. I've tried changing a bunch of settings, it shows when i'l pugged in via HDMI to my PC but also through apps directly loaded through the TV so i doubt it's a peripheral issue. I used a SLR camera to take pictures of the screen using different brightness so that it's easier to make out what is happening. It seems to be mostly on the right half of the screen. Anyone have any ideas of what is going on ? I hope I don't need a new TV...
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From the album: Random
simple background I made in GIMP I think. Thought it looked pretty cool, was going for a trapped under the ice feel.-
- background
- ice
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This computer was built about a year ago, and has since then been a work in progress. (at time of starting this blog) The specs are: Fractal Design Define R4 i7 4770k @ stock 3.5 ghz with stock cooler ASUS Sabertooth Z87 Radeon R9 270X 2GB 8 GB Corsair Vengeance RAM Apevia 750 Watt Power Supply MAXTHOR 500GB HDD (I don't know the model number of it, but it is pretty old and soon to go) OCZ Agility 4 64GB SSD TP-Link PCI-E Wifi Card (soon to change) Fans: 3 X 140mm Apevia Blue LED Fans 1 X 140mm Fractal Design White Fan 2 X 140mm Apevia Red LED Fan Peripherals: Razer Black Widow (2011) Razer Naga Epic Logitech G230 2 X AOC E2460SWD 24" Monitors 2.1 Logitech Speakers This blog is basically going to be on the finishing touches/upgrades to the computer along with a complete color change. This computer has been a work in progress for nearly 3 years, and probably will forever be one. But before I am almost completely happy with it, there are a couple things I plan on adding in the near future. First, I want to change the overall look of the computer, beginning with the fans. Currently there are 3 extremely bight blue fans in there, and they look cool and all, but in my opinion they really don't match any of the components. Instead of blue, brown, gold, white, and basically every other color in the rainbow, I am going to go for a white and black looking color scheme.
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BTOB Blue is a subunit consisting of BTOB's Eunkwang, Changsub, Hyunsik, and Sungjae, essentially all the vocalists of BTOB minus the rappers, Ilhoon and Peniel. When It Rains is the quartet's 2018 single, and of course will follow the ballad style that the vocalists of BTOB are known for. I love the vocals of BTOB a lot so having all the vocalist in a subunit like this seems like it will make for a soothing, relaxing, comfortable, warm ballad to listen to when it rains, no pun intended. Today I'll be listening to the group's ballad, When It Rains, and sharing my thoughts on the song. 0:21 - The opening is beautiful, with Eunkwang's vocals effortlessly flowing in with the simple background instrumentals. I love that the vocals are ever so more forward than the instrumentals, the background composition is giving his vocals a lot of body especially with the undertone present underneath his vocals. The piano's rhythm also follows the vocal flow and it makes the whole composition sound so complete. 0:53 - Changsub's strong and powerful vocals are amazing here, and the background instrumentals rise ever so slightly. There's also now a background choir underneath his vocals which gives Changsub's vocals some more body and it sounds so melodic and warm. The piano also stays throughtout to maintain the slow, ballad tempo. 1:41 - The instrumentals are more subdued here and they gradually increase in volume compared to the vocals which allows the listener to anticipate the next chorus and keep the listener on edge, I love the feeling of being kept on the ride of they boys' amazing vocals. 2:17 - Much the same as the first chorus but with a harder-hitting kickdrum to accentuate the caliber and atmosphere of the ballad, combined with amazing vocals. The background choir sings in a higher register here and it gives the boys' vocals even more soul and energy. 3:00 - The choir is even more prominent here and I feel like it's become an epic opera, the caliber of their vocals is outstanding. 3:32 - The vocals are exploding here, the amazing vocals combined with the epic choir and the muted instrumental composition makes for a great final chorus to fully complete the building energy that was present throughout the song. BTOB did not disappoint here. When It Rains is an amazing ballad that perfectly showcased their amazing vocal ability. The addition of the soft choir gave their vocals and the song more energy and charisma, especially when the background composition mainly consisted of a few guitars, a piano, and some other minor instrumentals. I love the focus on their vocals moreso than anything else, I feel like that's what BTOB is out there to do. Their vocals were far forward than anything else in the song and it shows. The choir was merely there to assist them. It's a common theme in BTOB ballads to use a secondary choir to accentuate their main vocals, and it's definitely worked in this ballad.
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The MX Blue is a part of the iconic trifecta of original Cherry MX switches next to its siblings the Red and Brown, as well as their distant relatives, the Clear and Black. The MX Blue is the flagship clicky switch manufactured by Cherry and cloned by the likes of Gateron, Kailh, and Outemu, but what they all have in common is the same mechanism, the click jacket, to generate their tinny, wimpy, dissatisfactory click. The main draw towards opting for a clicky switch such as the MX Blue is the click jacket mechanism, this two-part stem made up of the main MX-style stem (in blue) and the plastic jacket (in transluscent white) to make up the switch. In theory, this is actually a genius design, but falls short as the two-part design creates hysteresis, delaying upstroke and for some people, slowing down their typing speed and/or gaming reflexes, as the delayed upstroke will be costly to those who are in need of fast keystrokes. Not to mention the click being tinny, short-lived, and weak, this switch fails to satisfy me when other excellent clicky switches like the Kailh Box Jade with its gorgeous-sounding click bar exist. As a fan of linear switches, this switch is extremely disorienting to use, the hysteresis delaying the upstroke as well as the jacket interrupting the downpress is just not fun to use. Taking a look at the force graph of the MX Blue, we can see where the pressure is applied and where the click is exerted, as well as the reset and hysteresis evident on the upstroke. The click is around 60g with the operation at around 50g, so this is a fairly medium switch compared to the other switches such as Reds and Blacks. The MX Blue is one of the most famous switches in the mechanical keyboard scene, and I would actually bet that most people would refer to this switch if they were asked what a mechanical keyboard is. The signature click of the MX Blue is what gives clicky switches a bad time, and that is sincerely disappointing as the MX Blue is easily the worst-sounding switch as well as the worst switch to use in general, with its inconsistent actuation and evident delay on the upstroke. Lube does not help the Blue either, as even lubing only the sliders will suppress the click and take away the switch's only redeeming quality. I would not recommend this switch for anybody as it's an all-around terrible switch, instead, if one is looking for a Kailh Box Jade, I definitely recommend the Kailh Box Jade, which I have reviewed previously, and can read here.
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Hi! So today I've finished spray painting my mouse (Chillblast aero rgb gaming mouse) and I can't get over how damn good it looks now I want the community to give me a rating of the mouse on looks /style and colour combo. This was my first time actually spray painting so I want everyone's ideas and tips and improvents I could do for future preferences. I'll give you an original and after. I spray painted it because it will fit my white keyboard and my Japanese blossom tree desk mat! (Also the mouse hasn't been reassembled but the shells are there with the base)
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One of the SSDs I choose when upgrading older laptops that still use a mechanical HDD is the WD Blue SA510 SATA SSD. In my head I was thinking it's just another WD Blue SATA SSD, a solid mid-range SSD from a reputable known brand manufacturer. But I've started to notice weird performance issues during the initial wave of Windows Updates that come after a Windows clean install. The laptop would kinda stop responding for a few seconds, then be snappy again. I thought it's just the usually dual core processor in the computer at 100% utilization. That was until I decided to open Task Manager while a computer is doing updates when I saw this SSD be pinned at 100% for several seconds then come down. Odd. I don't notice this kind of behavior even on other cheaper SSDs. This laptop only have an Ivy Bridge Intel Core i5-3210M (2-core 4-thread processor from 10 years ago) and it is sometimes bottlenecked by a WD Blue SSD especially from a fresh install like this. So I decided to buy one for myself. I bought a WD Blue SA510 500GB SATA SSD for $43 and benchmarked it to the best of my knowledge and abilities and the results were so surprising that I'm still having doubts if I did my tests right. For comparison, I also tested it against other dram-less SSDs like the PNY CS900 500GB SATA, a Hyundai C2S3T 120G that I bought for $12 just because of the Hyundai brand on the SSD, and the now DRAM-less Fattydove Racing 120GB SSD. I also compared it to DRAM equipped SATA SSDs that I do have which are the Crucial MX500 500GB, and old Crucial M550, and my very first SSD the Kingston V300 240GB "bait-and-switch" edition. I used my personal custom build to do these tests with the SSDs connected directly to the motherboard using SATA 3 without the use of any SATA to USB adapters. AMD Ryzen 7 5800x Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 3200 MHz (8x2 kit) Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe boot drive MSI B550-A PRO Nvidia RTX 3060 Ti Founders Windows 10 Pro 21H2 With CrystalDiskMark sequential read and writes, nothing is crazy bad or anything with the WD Blue SA510. My Crucial MX500 is actually at a disadvantage being half full of data and not formatted clean at all yet it is still a chart topper. At the bottom is my very first SSD, the Kingston V300 "bait-and-switch" edition with the Micron 20mn NAND alongside the DRAM-less PNY CS900. Randoms is where things get a bit interesting. The DRAM-less PNY CS900 that I bought for just $29 is the one performing very poorly when it comes to random writes but is performing quite well in random reads which matters the most, in my opinion. My Kingston V300 "switcharoo" SSD performs the least in random reads but compared to the WD Blue Scorpio spinning rust it replaces, it was still a big upgrade for me back in 2016. I still don't fully understand how to properly interpret ATTO Disk Benchmark results and I basically just copied Anantech's settings: 32 GB file size, Bypass Write Cache, Queue Depth of 4. But something tells me that the very low numbers of the WD Blue SA510 is correlated with the poor performance it's getting when doing that initial wave of Windows Updates after a clean install. The Hyundai C2S3T and Fattydove Racing despite being sub-$20 120GB cheapo SSDs are performing relatively fine. The spreadsheet (limited to SATA SSDs that are still in my possession) ATTO (MB/s) ATTO (IOPS) But wait, there's more! I took it apart to see...a DRAM-less and single NAND flash SSD. I'm pretty sure the WD Blue SATA SSDs are supposed to have a DRAM cache with the WD Green being DRAM-less. DRAM-less is forgivable on their WD Blue NVMe SSDs thanks to Host Memory Buffer (HMB) doing its job, but not so much on a SATA SSD that costs more than other DRAM-less options like the PNY CS900, and (as of December 2022) only $10 cheaper than something with DRAM like the Crucial MX500 and Samsung 870 EVO. SanDisk A101-000125-B0 controller Nothing on the back. SanDisk 0G6744-512G NAND flash (if I read that right) By contrast look at the PNY CS900 with eight NAND flash chips. Still DRAM-less but it is also cheaper, somehow. Phison PS3111-S11-13 single-core, 2-channel controller 4 more NAND chips on the back For fun, here's the Hyundai C2S3T 120 GB SSD The now unfortunately DRAM-less Fattydove Racing 120 GB SSD with who-knows-what NAND flash chips. I'm not a professional drive reviewer but I did try to be as consistent as possible. I am I weirdo who benchmarks pretty much every single storage device I end up owning. This "mini hobby" started when one of my SanDisk Class 10 SD cards is causing my DSLR to stop recording randomly, finding out that its write speed is nowhere near Class 10 and more like Class 6. Testing all my storage devices also help me install the appropriate storage device for the appropriate systems as well as catch bull---- that manufacturers pull. Feel free to comment down below with your thoughts and criticisms.
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- wd
- western digital
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Hi, so my PC (R5 3600x, 16gb DDR4, RTX 2070 SUPER) blue screens a lot and I don't know why. I did a fresh install, underclocked my ram, my CPU, my GPU drivers are ok. Every blue screen has a different error. help?
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Hello there! I am new to the forum. The main reason I made this account was so I could post this here. I am in desperate need to find and buy from someone an APEVIA X-CRUISER-BL case. I am aware that it ran out of stock a long time ago, so I am trying to see if I could buy it from someone around the world. Thank you!
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Hi, This is my parts list: CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 @3.4GHz Cooler: HYper 212x RAM: 2x 8GB DDR4 @2133 MHz Motherboard: Gigabyte H170 -HD3 GPU: MSi gtx 1070 gaming x PSU: Corsair RMX 750x Case: phanteks ethoo pro m midi tower acrylic window SSD : 120 gb kingston for my os HDD : HDD WESTERN DIGITAL WD20EZRZ 2TB BLUE SATA3 5400 RPM I HAVE ORDERED ALL THE ABOVE PARTS AND PAID FOR THEM . I WILL USE THIS PC MAINLY FOR GAMING . SO HERE IS MY PROBLEM: SHOULD I RETURN THE 2 TB WD BLUE 5400RPM AND GET AN 1TB WD CAVIAR BLACK 1TB 7200RPM( THEY HAVE THE SAME PRICE IN MY COUNTRY) THANK U