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What exactly is AVX and do I need it?
Qifsharmonika posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
I want to build a media streaming pc (for like 350 euro) for my living room and I was looking into the G4560 chip because it seems like the most VFM thing right now. But when I took a closer look reviewers mentioned that it doesn't have AVX (compared to the i3) but that it doesn't affect gamers (I don't care about that.) So I looked up AVX and I couldn't exactly understand what it's meant for and I need you guys to explain it to me and tell me if there is any chance I will need it in the future. Thank you in advance. P.S. I don't need a GPU for this PC right? -
Does anyone know how to optimize avx/avx2 emulation using intel's sde.exe? (software development emulation) Using the sde program, I was able to start and play star citizen. (I use that game as a base test for avx emulation) The problem is that the game plays at one frame per minute. Any ideas, alternate programs and/or a different method of doing this would be great. And I would love a reply. P.S. I know this topic is useless to most people but I think it's cool to see if it can be done, And I'm sure it would help people with old xeons.
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I am using Pentium G4560 and GTX 1050ti this specs are enough to run yakuza 3 but pentium g4560 doesn't have "AVX" so everytime I try to run the game it says please check the system requirements. (AVX) is there anyway I can bypass the AVX requirement and run this game?
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Dual Universe has been in beta for approximately 3 months. During that time it was noticed that AMD gaming rigs had difficulty running the game. It turns out that the game makes heavy use of AVX and AMD's current implementation makes this game only playable when restricted to one core.
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I've got an Arctic Freezer II 240 (on an i9 9900k) and it had an Icy Diamond pad on it, until I noticed recently it's been hitting mid 90's on most cores, and 100+ on core 4. I went back to paste today, and spread it over the IHS in as thin a layer as I could get away with and still have it on the IHS (any thinner and the credit card would be removing the paste lol) (AS5 because it was what I had from previously), and it's doing the same thing. I went back into the bios, set everything back to how this video set it up: I have gotten a stable OC of 5.0GHz at 1.28 Volts and can't go any lower without stability issues. But even then the temps persist into the same territories. It's not until I throttle it all the way down to 3.6GHz that I start to see any lowering of temps. The thumb... nuts? (for lack of better words, it's not a screw so lol) are snug and just a little past but not so hard tightened as to cause damage to the threads or IHS. I'm at a loss for words here. I know that the i9 9900k runs hot and is "ok to run" at 90's+ under AVX loads but, I'd rather get back to the 80's I was seeing when I first put this in my system a couple of years ago. I know that evap can happen, but I want to doubt that that happens in 2 years to this level, plus it'd be making air-bubble noises if it had gotten that low. In fact I don't hear it run at all, but the fans do. That's the part that has me wondering, I mean it never made noise to begin with but had good temps... however I don't know of any way to know that it is running. I do notice the air is moving, but it's not pulling hot air off the radiator like it should be for heat of this level... ((edit: Strike that last part, after letting it run for more than 20 seconds it is moving warm air off of the rad. I just had to let the liquid saturate some DOH)) Is there any way to actually tell that the pump is running besides sound? I have the lead coming off of it hooked to the CPU_Fan header on my ASUS Maximus Hero XI WiFi. It's also mounted with the Rad at the top of the case, fans under it pulling the air through to pull cool air in through the fins of the rad. Oh, and it idles between 35 and 45, mostly around 42/43.
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Well been messing with overclocking for about two weeks now on and off to reset defaults and I think I finally fixed it here are photos from a 20 minute test I did twice. As well as the benchmark test which takes as long as it needs to my score was 1438. Is that good? Anyone know memory OC too? I'm looking in to that now as well how to set it up correctly as well. If my CPU is good to go at 5.0GHz As well I didn't touch anything but cpu multiplier and vcore and offset. How about this AVX offset I left it default which on my board (Z170 classified k) is 3. Vdroop fine on default? I'm new to overclocking & my first build. Just want to make sure I'm doing this Overclocking the right way. One question opening certain programs jumps my temp to 4(x)c sometimes 5(x)c from idle 32c. Is that normal? I use this PC for recording gameplay and editing videos and rendering which is the most reason I want 5.0Ghz so It'll be quicker than ever before. My old PC used to take 14 hours (that's right and true) to render an hour video. Photos of stress test today at 5.0GHz Vcore on auto with a offset of +75 temps never hitting over 70c. Yesterday at 4.8GHz hitting around 78c-83c with a lower Vcore (I thought this was quite weird) Tried again 5.0 at 1.335V though when testing 1.363 & 1.381 it said was the fluctuates of vcore for the temps for prime95 v26.6 test was 79c-80c. I say cause it passed the 640k test then was trying to do its 8k test temps went above 90c.
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Hi. On my ASUS Maximus XI CODE in the Bios I set the AVX offset to 0. When in Widows my CPU (overclocked to 5GHZ - 9900K) runs stable at 32 degrees at idle. When I run an AVX intensive program like Prime95 the CPU speed drops to 4.5ghz on all cores. When I go back to the Bios and set the offset to 1 the AVX load in Windows drops to 4400ghz and when to set to 2 the CPU drops to 4.3GHZ. There is always 500mhz that the Bios adds ontop of the AVX offset. Even when the AVX is set to 0, the CPU will drop from 5GHZ to 4.5GHZ when Prime95 is run. The LLC is set to 6 (I have tried other values and makes no difference). Even more frustrating is that when I have an AVX value greater than 0 the CPU speed in windows (even when at idle) will fluctuate between the overclock speed and the AVX offset. So just at idle with an AVX offset of 3 the CPU clock will go up and down from 5GHz to 4.7GHz every second. Speedstep is disabled. MCE is disabled. Windows power managment is set to the highest value. I have tried to set the VCORE to adaptive / auto and a fixed value. Makes no difference. When I set AVX to 0 and run games and stress tests the system is stable at 5GHZ. I am starting to wonder if there is something loaded at idle on the desktop that runs in the background that the mobo thinks is AVX and thats why the speed goes up and down between the overclocked speed and the AVX offset. System Spec: CPU - 9900K MOBO - ASUS Maximus XI CODE (latest BIOS) 850W corsair powersupply RAM - Corsair Dominator Plat 3200mhz overclocked to 3400mhz
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Hi, I have i7 9700K paired with asus z390 prime. i left everything at default and only changed core multiplier to 51 and BCLK to 102.7 and now the CPU is runn8ng at 5.1ghz on all cores. but what is AVX? min value is 0. and do i need to change anything? voltage? LLC... etc? OC is stable as is.
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I set an AVX offset of 4 while doing this overclock and it's only supposed to kick in during AVX workloads, but it's constantly flipping back and forth between 5.1 and 4.7ghz while under any kind of load even while using the prime95 version that specifically doesn't use AVX (version 26.6). I thought it was just doing this in simulators at first which do use some AVX stuff, but it's doing it in everything. It even bumps down to 4.7 periodically sometimes while idling. I tried updating my bios already so it's not that. Is this normal? 9700k, asrock z390 taichi, gtx 1080, samsung 970 evo 500gb, fractal design s36, 16gb corsair 3200mhz vengeance RGB pro, etc.
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Hi, I followed the Der8auer guide on overclocking my 9700k and I have a stable overclock at 5.1ghz with an AVX offset of 4. I'm wondering if I should OC it differently though since I play a lot of flight sims and I know that a lot of them do use AVX workloads from what I've heard. Since DCS world started crashing on me, I've been thinking about redoing the overclock, but that could also just be a bad update or something. Any thoughts on this? I do notice my clock speed jumping back and forth between 4.7 and 5.1 so something definitely is happening with AVX in the background. ASRock z390 taichi, 9700k, asus strix gtx 1080 oc gaming edition, Samsung 970 evo 500gb nvme m.2, Corsair ax760, 16gb 3200mhz corsair vengeance RGB pro, Fractal Design s36, etc
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I am currently using OCCT for my stress-testing to make sure my OC is stable, and I noticed that there is an Auto, No AVX, AVX, or AVX2 option. Which one(s) of these do I use to test? Do I do a combination of all of them? I didn’t think about this before so I’m writing to you about 2/6 hours into an AVX2 test? Should I do No AVX and AVX for the next 4 hours with two hours each (I only really have 6 hours, and now that’s about 4). Thanks!
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- cpu
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I'm building up the OC on my 8350k. I have it at 4.5Ghz at the moment, using Prime95 for stress testing. Since Prime95 runs AVX instructions by default, I've kept the AVX offset at 0 or it would reduce my clocks while testing. Thinking ahead, I'm not sure if I'm going to bother going beyond my AVX max. I know people can achieve higher clocks with the AVX offset at 1-3, but an offset of 1 is only a 100 Mhz gain, which you still need to stress test, and which you lose as soon as the CPU hits an AVX instruction. Looking for opinions ?
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UAVX/AVX VS AMC PRIME Hi! I was wondering which movie theater viewing format was better and why? I could have done poll mode but I wanted to understand why whichever is better. It would be additionally appreciated if you could also tell me if my question is opinion based or able to be proved by facts. I don't want to start a crazy forum post, Like if someone says Apple Vs Android. Thanks! P.S. I'm planning on seeing Independence Day Resurgence in either Silverado 19 or AMC Willowbrook 24. (Silverado is UAVX alongside Atmos) (AMC is Prime with Atmos)
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Hi, so I'm a game developer/graphics programmer, and I've been getting into SIMD programming as of late. For my specific application (a voxel game), I get some huge performance increases through vectorization, but I'm curious as to what extent modern games actually make use of this tech. It's a little hard to develop for, and its use cases are limited but important. E.g., on-CPU physics and particles, encoding/decoding, etc. Anyone have ideas? This seems important, as its an area where we might see actual major increases in CPU performance, justifying consumers upgrading their processors, but it requires developers to actually program for it. (Spoiler: if the developer has a choice, they typically pick the laziest option. Multithreading? Nah. SLI support? Nah. Speed increases? Oh good, we can spend less effort optimizing our code. etc.)
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UAVX OR DRM IMAX? So this goes for any movie that's IMAX DMR If I have the money and a theater close to me had both of these formats which would I choose? I want good Audio and Picture. I'm willing to pay almost whatever and I don't care much about reserved seating because my theater has it always. Which movie format should I choose for a upcoming movie? DMR IMAX or UAVX (I go to Silverado 19)(Santioks)
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This is my first time posting a review on this actual forum. Please let me know if I'm not following etiquette, and what you think! Introduction: For the past few years of my work on YouTube, I've been using a pretty janky audio setup; on-camera microphones, cheap shotguns, broken audio recorders. That is, until about a month ago. Sennheiser sent me over one of their AVX Wireless Microphone kits. The one I specifically received was the ME2 Wireless Lavalier version. (There are other versions with a handheld mic, a different lav mic, or a combo kit of both.) Not only does the ME2 lav mic sound pretty good, but the entire kit has drastically improved the efficiency of the audio side of my video shooting. Average Price: ~$800 (OUCH!!) My kit came with: ME2 Lavalier Mic Capsule Wireless Transmitter Wireless Receiver (XLR Connection) Hot shoe mount XLR - 3.5mm adapter (for going straight into camera) Mic clip Mic windscreen Carrying bag Micro USB charging cable USB "wall wart" (power brick) Paperwork Build Quality: The kit is composed of two parts - the lav mic and transmitter, and the receiver. The microphone capsule is small and not super gaudy, and the shirt clip for it feels quite durable. The mic cable isn't super thick, but it doesn't feel like it will break easily. It attaches to the transmitter via a 3.5mm connection that actually screws into the transmitter. This is great, as it keeps the connection secure and safe from damage. The belt clip on the back of the transmitter feels secure, yet easy to slide onto a pant seam, pocket, belt, etc. The transmitter has a removable battery with easy-ish to grab release clips, a rubber flap to cover the Micro USB charging port, a tiny antenna that doesn't get in the way of shirts or anything, a rock-solid (in a good way) mute switch, indicator LED and a LCD to display connection status, signal strength, battery life, etc. There's also a tiny LED by the charging port to indicate whether it's charging or fully-charged. It also has two buttons on the left-hand side - a Power button and a Pair button. The buttons are quite mushy and hard to actually press properly without a lot of deliberation. The receiver is quite small and is based on an XLR male female end. (I plug this into my mixer board - Behringer Xenyx X1832USB.) The XLR end is rotatable, so you can keep the receiver in any necessary position, which is awesome. This features a removable battery, Micro USB charging port with an indicator LED to show red when charging, green when fully charged. At the top lies the Power/Check button, Pair button, and AF Out button, as well as a Power/Status LED and 4 LEDs to indicate battery level/AF Out levels. Again, the buttons are very mushy. The Power/Check button, specifically, requires a lot of nail to be used to press in, and even still it's hard to hold in all the way. This is, by far, the weakest part of the product. All-in-all, both the receiver and transmitter have very solid, rugged, durable build quality - but the mushy buttons need addressed. Seriously. The use of proprietary batteries could be a problem for some, but the ease-of-use of Micro USB charging and included charge cable and wall wart help keep this from being a problem. Functionality: This kit is seriously easy to use. Charge it up, mic up, hook up your receiver to your desired audio input device, power both parts on, hit the "Pair" buttons on both, and you're good to go! The best wireless channel is automatically chosen and the two are continuously kept in-sync, even through power cycles, so there's no fiddling with wireless channels or forgetting to set them correctly. If they do get out of sync, fixing it is just a button press away. Pressing the "Check/Power" button on the receiver while powered on will show battery status. Pressing the "AF Out" button will allow you to change your desired output levels. The default worked best for me, as turning it up caused clipping/peaking, even with low levels/gain on my mixer. The XLR-3.5mm adapter and hot shoe mount are easy to set up. Both units can be charged while using them. It's easy to just leave the receiver plugged in during use. Battery capacity on the transmitter/mic is very good - I rarely need to charge it, but the receiver has a very tiny battery and I end up leaving it plugged in more often than not. This is further hurt by the otherwise good feature of it automatically turning on whenever Phantom Power is detected. Audio Quality: Audio quality on this capsule (again, the ME2 capsule for my unit) is great. It is the best microphone I have used for on-camera video so far. It doesn't fully compete with my broadcast mics, but it is definitely up to par with my Rode NTG-2 shotgun mic that I would otherwise shoot with, but with much less/cleaner/easier-to-remove-in-post background noise. It has a decent dynamic range pickup - with crisp high-end, full mid, and a decent bass/low-end pickup, though noticeably less low-end gets picked up compared to my NTG-2 shotgun mic. Which is totally understandable and fine. As a raw recording, it sounds a little flat. But compression and EQ quickly bring out some really great sound from this audio, and I'm really happy with it. The audio is clean with no wireless interference, even in a very wireless-heavy environment where my PS4 controller can't stay in-sync from 2 feet away, and can be processed to sound sexy quite easily. You can listen to a raw, unedited mic sample here: https://soundcloud.com/eposvox/sennheiser-avx-me2-wireless-lav-mic-test (Take it for what you will; recording scenarios vary. Plus, you'll ideally be post-processing the audio, anyway.) Conclusion: Overall, this mic kit is a fantastic investment, and perfect for small teams or "one man shows" like myself. The sheer convenience of just opening Adobe Audition, powering on the receiver and mic and being ready to record quality audio cannot be beat. My only real complaint about this mic kit is the price. This kit could cost you north of EIGHT HUNDRED DOLLARS! That's freaking expensive. For productions with decent revenue and a need to make things more convenient - you definitely get your value for your money - but for those of us who don't have that kind of dough lying around, this may be out of your price point.
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Amazon: http://geni.us/3FWX NCIX: http://bit.ly/1JOyoFN Will the AVX from Sennheiser be Brandon's go-to for audio at live events moving forward?
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