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First the specs: System: Windows 10 Home 64bit CPU: 8700K GPU: Aorus 1080ti MOBO: Asus Strix Z370-f Cooler: Corsair H100i RGB pro xt PSU: Corsair HX750 RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 4x8 32GB 3000mhz The system is 5 years old. Recently been sitting disconnected entirely for the last 4-5 month because the previous GPU (also a 1080ti but a different one) was shorting and causing problems. I got a 'new' secondhand GPU, I saw it working myself on the system the guy I bought it from was running, nothing seemed wrong with it. The GPU is the *only* component that was changed. And I am not overclocking. The issue: Got the new GPU, plugged it in. First day, everything was working fine. The next day, I got nvlddmkm.sys BSODs. I updated the drivers, then tried uninstalling and re-installing the drivers. Still the BSOD remained. Took the GPU out entirely, connected my displays to the MOBO's I/O and everything worked. The next day everything went nuts. Remember, the card is not in the system now. I get a "CPU Over Voltage Error" on startup. I get to the BIOS. I can't believe what I'm seeing: CPU Voltage: 4.064v Memory Voltage: 4.064v +12v rail: 24.288v +5v rail: 10.120v +3.3v rail: 2.608v Motherboard Temp: -57c This doesn't seem like a GPU driver issue to me. I saw a thread on Tom's Hardware that indicated that the nvlddmkm.sys error could be related to a bad PSU. What do you think is happening? Help!
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Hi , how are you, I just need advice , I did an undervolt to my 8700k , and I don't know of I did it right but I started benching using cinebench and hwifo and undervolting with throttlestop , started with -60mv and kept note of the scores of cinebench, then after the 10 min tests , undervolt by -10 mv until I reached a low score for about 50 points that was at -1.77mv and just to be sure I added another -10 mv and yes , the score went down, I was amazed that the CPU never crashed neither the cinebench program, so I ended puting back the number of mv that gave me the best results in the test, and started playing with +- 1mv until I noticed that the scores where stable at -1.63, after this I passed the 30 min stability test, so I proceeded to create a scheduled task for throttlestop, in order to start with windows. I know that it's better to make that change in the bios. So what I'm asking is , if you can help me, what do I need to change? because I really don't know where and what settings I need to check in order to put the values in the bios, my mobo is an Asus ROG. Thanks .
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Hi! I have fps issues in certain games I'd like some help with. Here are my specs: Windows 10 20H2 (19042.870) MSI Z370 GAMING PRO CARBON (latest bios) Intel Core i7-8700K @4.7 all cores (unparked) Corsair iCUE h150i blabla G.SKILL F4-3200C14D 2x8GB @3200mhz CL14 (xmp enabled) RTX 3080 Msi gaming x trio (461.92) Benq Zowie xl2546k @240hz Games that work as I'd like to: Doom: Eternal; 97-99% gpu usage and about 300fps @1080p Warframe: CPU Bottlenecked all cores running around 80-90%, 300 to 500fps @1080p (then I cap at 240) Games with weird behaviour: GTA V (Dx11), whatever I throw at it, medium, high, ultra settings, 1080p, 1440p(dsr), 4k(dsr) I will alway get between 80-100 fps, with 30-40 gpu usage, and 40-50 cpu usage (no single core maxing out) Deep Rock Galactic (Dx12), Will not reach 240fps in the main hub even though GPU usage is 50% and CPU only have 3-4 cores active at around 60%. Lower FPS in Dx11. I really don't know what to do. Are the games just poorly optimized?
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Hello everyone! So I recently switched my cpu cooling method over to liquid cooling for my 8700k. I have a asus rog strix z370 egaming mobo. The pump has two wires one 3 pin connector and the other is a 4 pin which I assume is the rgb lighting for the pump.. now I have an AIO pump 4 pin on my mobo but no corresponding female plug from the pump. The 3 pin from the pump fits on the 4 pin connector leaving 1 pin exposed...on start up the pump fan runs...which means it's cooling...and the rgb lights are working and pump and radiator fans are synced ..but I get a cpu fan error on start up that requires me to enter bios..wondering if anyone has some helpful info. Thanks!
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I decided to do a manual overclock of my 8700k yesterday. I dialed in all my settings and ran a few stress tests, finished off with running Prime95 for an hour to check for instabilities. Everything went fine. But then today started to play Destiny 2 and my main screen kept on going black then coming back (computer still running almost like the source was being changed). I changed over my main screen so I was playing on my secondary and that one was fine but the other continued to go blank then come back on again. I checked all the cables and everything was fine, so I thought I would remove the OC that I did. That was about 12 hours ago now and I have had no problems with my screen. Does anyone have any suggestions that would be great. I have had an auto OC on this before and it was fine. Specs: 8700k Asus Maximus XI Hero Z390 Fractal Design 360 AIO cooler RTX 2070 OC: 5Ghz 1.350 Volts XMP1
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Budget (including currency): 0 Country: usa Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Warzone Forza 5 etc. Other details ROG Strix 390 E Gaming Motherboard, Intel 8700k CPU, 64g 3200 Corsair C16, Samsung 970 pro 512 m.2, Samsung 850 EVO 1TB, Seagate IronWolf 4tb HDD, NZXT Kraken Z73 360mm AIO, Corsair 850i Power. May be wrong thread but I'm trying to maximize my performance with what I have. I'm a novice pc builder an just want to make sure I haven't gone wrong in any way. Thanks in advance
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Hi everyone I have a hard time finding a concrete answer to the above (title) question. Yes, I know a too high VCORE is not good, and if it's manual (static), then it's even worse (than if it's peaks voltages). After delidding my 8700K some time back, I then decided a week ago to try 4.7GHz ALL CORE on my current 0.095mV -Offset undervolt and everything is stable and my temps peaks at 77c on some cores after a heavy game session. I know this is already perfectly fine (temp wise) but I see VCORE peaks at 1.375-ish and I feel like my 8700K can do better than that. My guess is that 1.3V would be enough for 4.7GHz ALL CORE. I know my 8700K isn't a silicon lottery winner but I feel like 1.3V still would be enough for 4.7GHz ALL CORE with my 8700K. So now to the actual question: Does a manual (static) VCORE hurt the CPU in the long run? Would 1.3V manual VCORE kill my 8700K? (I know that no one knows the future, but what would you "guess") I have for a long time used -Offset undervolt, because it still keeps the voltages at auto - which lets it fluctuate and go down while idle - but it still peaks pretty high. Now, I have heard a lot of people talk about using LLC and so on and I have never really understood it properly, also the thing with disabling SVID support but that always made my system incredibly unstable. What has worked before was manual (static) VCORE and -Offset, and these I understand 100%. So yeah, sure, I could just try the manual (static) VCORE right now and so on but I fear that it might be bad in the long run - and it's hard to find a concrete answer to this. I'm thinking about VCORE up to 1.35V at max. Thank you to anyone who uses their time to read my post and so on
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Cooler: H115i RGB pro XT Ram: 32GB 3200Mhz CL16 Motherboard: ASUS Maximus Hero X Wifi GPU:6800 XT CPU is not delidded. I wanted to test this after my CPU started to spike to 99°C at 5.0GHz 1.37v. When the system was stable I was getting around 78°C under load in game. Recently it started to peak at 99°C and trigger all the fans for 10 seconds every two minutes when in game. Temps are never below 85°C in game. CPU load is 80% in game. I tested 4.7Ghz at 1.35v and temps were still at around 90°C. I downcloked the CPU to 3.7GHz at 1.15v in hopes to finally see temps below 40°C. You can see the results below 40°C under full load and idle; https://imgur.com/a/z7L3Wui Cooler pump is working, I can feel and hear it when it kicks in. It was replaced by Corsair 3 months ago and I was getting below 80°C under load for 2 months at 5Ghz. CPU fans are directly connected to Motherboard; not the cooler. I run them at 100% for this test to make sure I am getting best cooling. You can see the Cooler pump is at max speed. I tried resitting the cooler with different pastes. Room temp is 25°C. Are these numbers reflective of what I should see at 3.7Ghz base speed? What could be the rise of sudden 99°C spikes at 5.0GHz ?
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Budget (including currency): ~$600 USD Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I purchased a used prebuilt from CyberPower in 2018 and have slowly upgraded it over time to a custom build. I play at 1440p/144Hz and play a wide array of games, some more CPU intensive like Rust and R6. Some more GPU intensive like Squad, HLL, and Warzone. Disregarding the old parts, I have upgraded the various components thus far: -GPU: Nvidia 3080 FE -PSU: Corsair 850 Gold -AIO: NZXT Kraken X63 -RAM: 32gb Corsair Vengeance 3600mhz DOCP/XMP -CASE: Lian Li Lancool Performane Mesh -STORAGE: Sabrent Rocket 2TB NVME M.2 My question comes in here, I want a CPU that will compliment my GPU and will not bottleneck. My current CPU is an I7-8700k delidded OC 5.0GHZ 1.35V. This is where I have found it somewhat stable where it won’t blue screen. My problem is that my motherboard is a rebranded one from CyberPower z370 Sli/Xtreme, an AsRock rebranding I believe, but this motherboard is very cheap quality and has not done well for the CPU OC and continues to have spikes in voltage and VRM cooling issues. I understand I don’t need to OC but the reliability of the MOBO is in question and I want to go ahead and upgrade the motherboard. That being said if I’m going to spend $150 or so on a 3 generation old motherboard I’d rather just upgrade to meet the requirements of a 3080 and bring my system around to being fully updated. My thoughts were the I9-10850k as the price to performance is phenomenal and MSI A Pro z490 or z590. I am open to other CPU recommendation as well as motherboard recommendations. Since I have 3600mhz RAM would I may be better served on a Zen chip which can use RAM clocked that high. I am also very curious on the z490 vs z590 debate regarding 10th intel processors. Lastly, I would wait for Zen 4/5 or Alder Lake but with rumors of cancellation, pushbacks, and the ongoing Silicon Shortage. I think I’m in a good place to go ahead and upgrade now.
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Budget (including currency): Not an issue Country: Croatia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Competitive games (Rocket league, shooters, etc), AAA Games on 2K resolution. Programming (for work, lot's of services that need to run locally + docker images and databases), OS Virtualization, Occasional video editing. Other details So my current setup is: CPU: Intel i7 8700K COOLER: CORSAIR iCUE H150i RGB PRO XT GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 XC3 ULTRA RAM: 2x Kingston Savage DDR4 16GB 2400MHz MOBO: Asus Prime Z370-A PSU: Coolermaster V650 80+ Gold STORAGE: Kingston SA2000M81000G M.2 SATA 1TB MONITOR: 155Hz 2K Monitor Through some circumstances I got a new motherboard gifted to me by a friend. The mobo is ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Hero. I am asking myself if I should upgrade my rig to take advantage of the new motherboard and pair the 3080 with a better/faster? processor, as well as take advantage of the extra cores and threads for my work. Or sell the motherboard. I would have to buy a new processor. I was thinking 5950x, new RAM x2 16GB Trident Z Neo 3600MHz C16 and 750W power supply. I can afford to purchase these locally, even with the higher prices in the stores. But I don't want to upgrade if it's not worth it. Additionally I would be able to reuse the 8700K, the mobo and the RAM to pair it with my old 1080 and get a second rig (I have an old case). My question is basically: Will I notice any significant Improvement when compared to my current setup? I use my machine for both gaming and work. I am a software engineer and do a lot of programming, virtualization and the occasional video project from time to time. Any advice is welcome and if you have more questions, ask away. EDIT: I forgot to mention that usually everything works smoothly. However, I do get the occasional slow down or stutter when I have lot's of dev apps open and services started. I also noticed that my CPU regularly hits 100% in titles such as Battlefield V on highest settings.
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Hi there! currently, I have a 16GB RAM kit (2x8) in my Asus Z390a Motherboard running an Intel i7 8700K at Stock speeds. The original plan was to upgrade to 32GB by swapping the current RAM kit to a 32GB RAM kit (2x16GB). But what about mixing these two kits in order to have 48GB? Would the whole system run in single channel, or do you get like one kit running in dual channel and the other one in single channel or both in dual channel? Looking at the specs, they do match in Clock speeds.
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I was GPU-less since September last year, as I sold my 1080 Ti Strix after Ampere was announced. Didn't expect stock would kill itself, so I didn't get a 3080 until mid-December, and glad I got the one without the red lip. Didn't install it to my PC until just now since I wanted to get all the parts I have before I started switching cases so I would cable manage everything in one go. So, literally just hours ago, I finally finished switching cases from the Phanteks P350X to the O11DW. My main gripe about the O11DW, that while it is quite roomy, it has bare bones routing or tie points for cable management, the middle and upper top are what you get. It took me hours, first by remaking my cables, and actually managing the cables inside the case, whereas my P350X my only issue was that it was tight but I managed it. Second issue was the HDD/SSD mounting at the back plate, it was flat enough that it was difficult to insert SATA power connectors to the drives. I had to route the connector under the drive, luckily SATA cables are flat. Third, is a small thing but it can be attributed to the Motherboard/fans, but USB 3.1 connectors is impossible to connect to the header if it's at the bottom and if you have fans there. Asus moved the USB header to the side near the 24-pin on Maximus XII series it seems. I actually liked how it turned out. I think there's a certain aesthetic to fans having no LEDs and how white accentuates the color of other sources of LEDs. After I bought the O11DW, originally I was gonna buy RGB fans like the UniFans, but I got the idea for this theme after I saw some O11DW builds on PCP using only Arctic P12 white fans and some LEDs. The Phantek's LED strip is probably the thinnest LED strip that's diffused that I know of, if anyone can suggest another I can check it out so I can make the LED strips more subtle. The 3080 + cables are a tight fit btw, almost hitting the glass. Since they're PET cables as well, it's stiff, so I had to really flex it back. Still somewhat WIP. I plan on either buying additional 16GB ram for production work as 16GB alone isn't cutting it anymore for me, or getting a Dominator Platinum RGB White 4x8GB. Might still try to make the LEDs' cables hidden. Also gonna do some cable management on my desk, buy some desk wire clamps for my cables and an aluminum bracket for my surge protector under my desk. Might also make/have someone make a custom GPU bracket for me, as the FTW3 is a lot heavier than my 1080 Ti Strix. Still rocking the 8700k, originally I was going to switch to the 3900 earlier last year, but I was spending so much on my audio hobby left and right, that I already spent more than my entire PC is now. Although I might switch to AM4 this year, preferably 5700 if that comes out, or go broke 5900. Alternatively not at all, since there's a chance I'll be living in Japan this year or the next, so might build a new PC altogether, just going to bring my drives and GPU with me.
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Hello friends, I recently snagged a i7 8700k / ASUS Prime Z370-A Motherboard combo on Ebay. It will be replacing my i5 3570k / ASrock motherboard. My first question is about ram. Will any ddr4 kit work? I'm thinking of going with 16gb, 3200mhz... does anyone have recommendations? And what can I expect from swapping out mobo/cpu? I will be keeping all the other components in my pc. Will windows need a reinstall? Any other insights on this upgrade would be appreciated.
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Hello Guys, here i am again with some more questions, i managed to finally OC my i7 8700K to 5GHz, @ 1.376V Stress Tests performed by me: CPU-Z Stress Test, Cinebench R23 for 10 minutes (Prime95 just skyrockets to 100C and shuts off instantly even on stock) Max Temps during CB were 81-85 Degrees Celsius, thats not good but also not bad. I need help to evaluate if these Voltages and Temps are safe. Specs That Matter here: i7 8700K (Not Delidded) MSI Z370M GAMING PRO AC H100i RGB PRO XT 240mm AIO RM850 PSU (2019) BIOS Settings: CPU Ratio Apply Mode: Turbo Ratio Set all core limit to 50 Enchaced Turbo a.k.a Multicore Enchancement = On SpeedStep a.k.a EIST = On (for the time being) Turbo Boost = On C-States = Disabled AVX Offset = -6 (Cuz Frick Prime95) RAM Overclocked to 3733 for stability DRAM Voltage 1.35V RAM Speed: 3733 MHz CPU VCCSA Voltage 1.150V CPU VCCIO Voltage: 1.100V Help Appreciated.
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Hello LTT Community, as the title already states, i'm thinking about upgrading my system and would like to hear your opinions. Im currently running an Intel i7-8700K, which is watercooled and overclocked to 5.0 GHz. I recently upgraded my GPU from a GTX 970 to a RTX 2080ti and got new RAM (16 Gigs, so 32GB in total). I'm really happy with the system performance so far and every game i want to play runs fine at 1440p. But as 8th gen is now quite old now, i was wondering if its still worth upgrading, even though i seem to have no real performance issues? The only downside of my system i could think of currently is that while browsing for custom watercooling parts, i started to notice many products for LGA 115X are EOL by now. Im very curious to hear your opinions.
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Hi All, I need some help with figuring out sudden shutdowns of my PC while gaming. (Also, sometimes there is recognizable stutters while playing low end games like League of legends) I picked up my PC parts in hopes of building a new PC last year and below are the parts. MOBO -- ASUS ROG STRIX Z370G Gaming (non wifi one) mATX CPU -- Intel Core i7 8700K (no overclocking, HT enabled) -- Windows task manager shows the CPU is running at 4.3 GHz Cooler -- Cooler Master Hyper T4 RAM -- Corsair Vengeance DDR4 2400MHz -- 2x4GB (Initial) 2x8GB(later, cause wanted to run some server VMs) - C16 (If it helps) XMP is disabled SSD - Samsung 970 EVO M.2 (256 GB for OS), Samsung 860 EVO (256 GB through SATA for Games) HDD - Seagate Barracuda 2TB (Recently bought as upgrade 5400RPM), Seagate Barracuda 1TB ( 5400RPM), Seagate Barracuda 500 (7200RPM, on the verge of dying) Graphics Card - MSI VENTUS XS RTX 2060 Fans -- 4x 120mm case fans Case -- Corsair Carbide SPEC03 Now for the PSU I cannibalised my old PC and took the Corsair VS550 bought around 4 years back. Whenever I play League of Legends for longer periods (like 2-3 hours at a time), the PC starts to stutter notably during gameplay and the stutters continue in the desktop where I can see the mouse skip some movements. After a restart this gets fixed. While playing AAA titles like Metro Exodus or Control without RTX ON, its working fine but with RTX ON, the PC shuts down after a while (around 45 minutes of gameplay) and restarts itself. I also noticed that when I play with some of the setting that might put more stress on the graphics card, like for example in Control I turned DLSS off, MSAA 4x on and RTX on with render resolution at 1920x1080. As soon as i exit the setting to return to the game, the PC shuts off, I saw similar behaviour in Metro exodus as well. I also tried getting the Temperatures logged during the shutdowns and I noticed they were all within good range like GPU was 72 C.(Forgot to capture CPU temp but I saw it in MSI OSD as around 60-70 C). Could this be due to PSU not able to provide enough power in both cases (Shutdown and Stutters) ? or could this be GPU or CPU ? Thanks in advance for your replies. Note: Sample of video stutters in below youtube video ( after 3:54 mark)
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Currently using 8700k with 3080. Have a 1440 GSync 144hz monitor. I play all kind of AAA games and occasionally edit some drones footage on Davinci. Should I even consider the new AMD CPU? Any comments will be appreciated, thanks.
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I bought a new Gigabyte Z390 pro for my 8700k, previously I had a Asrock killer sli Z370 and had my cpu at 4.9 with 1.27v all cores, but since I swapped over to this board I cant seem to set the overclock back to what it was and infact no matter what I set my cpu ratio to and the voltage, It wont boot, I get BSOD even with 4.7 at 1.36v but If I set the board to auto on VCore it boots at any speed I've tried even up to 5.0ghz and CPU Z reports that at 5.0 Ghz it uses anywhere between 1.23-1.34v but if I try manually set the Vcore in the BIOS it wont boot, does anyone know what might be causing this?
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hey guys, about to convert my 280mm aio into a proper custom loop, thinking about direct die mounting the waterblock, but i cant seem to verify anyone having successfully mounted an 8700k with direct die mounting. ive already delidded my 8700k, and while its running kind of cool right now (on a 280mm aio, fans/pump set to quiet and an air flow starved case) i want to aim for direct die with the custom loop. when i did the delid (1,5 years ago or so) i lost a memory channel in the process, I am unsure if the CPU/socket is damaged or if its just a mounting pressure issue, this seems to happen a lot. i did not glue the IHS back with silicon glue, i just placed liquid metal on the die and on the IHS, rested the IHS on and secured with the latch. i dont know if the lack of glue could cause uneven pressure and thus not making full contact in the socket, i have seen some posts confirming they got the memory channel back when re-mounting their coolers. however, from what i have gathered there seems to be an issue with the PCB of the 8700K chip being so thin, that the plastic corners of the socket actually protruding higher than the die itself when running naked, did anyone run into this when trying to direct die? im adding a picture from a thread i found on reddit discussing the issue. now, if the direct die route is not feasible, i think i am going to re-apply liquid metal, lap both the waterblock and IHS to make them perfectly flat, and use that instead of direct die - can anyone confirm that the original mounting kit for the Supremacy (or EVO) works good on delidded (lowered height) CPUs? any experiences from similar situations are greatly appreciated, all the best
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hi guys/girls so im playing around with my we gaming rig and thought id overclock my cpu but having stability issues and cant figure out the cause components are listed below Arous z390 ultra i7 8700k trident z 3200 cl15 32 gig ram saphire 5700xt card corsair 360 aio cooler Evga 850 watt power supply so i started with a low oc of 4.8 (so one over boost of 4.7)on all cores changed the vcore to turbo and upped the volts to 1.25v all booted fine ran cinebench and couple games temps good no issues so upped to 4.9 all cores and upped vaults to 1.3 same all worked fine so went to 5.0 and 1,35v again was stable tho was getting hot so went back to the 4.9 1.3v oc and thought id run prime 95 and instantly failed i tryed uping and lowering vaults no change just anything over 1.35v and i run into overheating issues i tried the low 4.8 same thing no mater what oc i try or volts to overheat prime fails straight away on small ftp test. games and cinebench, heaven bench etc all run fine but the fact prime instantly fails worry's me i followed several well known tutorials on youtube on a mild stable oc for my cpu but defiantly not stable according to prime any help or things to try would be great .. if i have to go back to auto no overclock then i will as builing a 3950x but would like to get a stable oc on this
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So I am going to upgrade my pc around september this year. But I am left with a choice, I7 7800X or the i7 8700k. So before you say 'you dont need 6 cores go 7700k', no I do some video editing, run servers, photoshop, and other multithread loads. But yes I game a lot as well. My planned setup involves GTX 1080Ti 32Gb ram 360mm aio watercooling (for silent cooling but oc potential) 8700k or 7800x (with respecting motherboard, I like the asus maximus xx hero line not to expensive and nice features and looks) my budget is around 2000 euro's (a bit more if neccesairy) what should I do, wait for the 8700k and benefit from the lower TDP and hopefully better performence then 7800x like the leaked benchmarks suggested. Or go for the 7800x now and pay the extra premium for the motherboard. Side question. Why should Intel make the 8700k perform better then the 7800x, if they follow the pricing that they usually do then the 8700k will be cheaper and perform better then the 7800x. They would effectivly be making there own product obsolete within a year. So.. help
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Hi all, Should I buy 7820x or wait for 8700k ? Don't take into account price of respective platforms. Daily workload of this PC will be: playing games (high chance of running two games at the same time), Creo parametrics (modeling SW) with 1 game on backround, playing games while browsing and watching movies (your typical multitasking). Thanks for you opinions
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So this is the latest build I did for a pal who does twitch. I want it to be known I did not pick the parts (For example the PSU is overkill and the case is too big in my opinion) But since it was his build I just gave my two cents and let him pick it all out then I assembled it. Actually came out pretty nice looking. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($399.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X52 Rev 2 73.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($140.68 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus - Prime Z370-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($139.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($239.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Mushkin - Reactor 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($269.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda XT 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($131.00 @ Newegg Marketplace) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 HYBRID GAMING Video Card ($849.99 @ B&H) Case: Thermaltake - View 71 TG RGB ATX Full Tower Case ($199.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA T2 850W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($219.79 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: NZXT - Aer RGB120 61.4 CFM 120mm Fan ($26.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case Fan: NZXT - Aer RGB120 61.4 CFM 120mm Fan ($26.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case Fan: NZXT - Aer RGB120 (3-pack) 61.4 CFM 120mm Fans ($76.55 @ Amazon) Case Accessory: NZXT - Hue+ LED Controller ($52.20 @ Amazon) Other: NZXT AC-HPL03-10 HUE+ Extension Kit ($32.99 @ Newegg Marketplace) Total: $2805.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-29 19:34 EDT-0400
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So recently I got an 8700k... but as of recently, I realised I wont be needing 6 cores and 12 threads because I mainly game anyway (mainly PUBG, F1 2016, GR:W, BF4/BF1), I also do video editing but not as much as gaming. I currently have an i5 2500k OC'ed to 4.3Ghz (it can do 4.5-4.7 but I see no point.) I recently got a PG279Q and I can run Ghost Recon Wildlands around 50-80fps on my GTX 980 (OC'ed) depending on the scenario. I read that going up in resolution will require more GPU power than CPU. So my plan is, to buy a GTX 1080Ti FTW3 to get more FPS while keeping my 2500k @ 4.3ghz. By doing this, I can return my 8700k and Z370 board and RAM and have extra cash to compensate for the monitor and GPU or for something else. I COULD go 1080p with 8700k and keep my GTX 980 but the problem is.... 1080p. I want 144hz IPS 1440p. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks in advance, Sean.
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Firstly apologies because im sure this question has been asked here a bunch, but I was wondering weather Its worth waiting for the i7-8700k or if I should just go with the 7700k This would be the system: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($445.00 @ Shopping Express) CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($139.00 @ PLE Computers) Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($287.00 @ Shopping Express) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($249.00 @ Mwave Australia) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($209.00 @ Shopping Express) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card ($1149.00 @ Shopping Express) Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($145.50 @ Skycomp Technology) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($154.00 @ Shopping Express) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home Full 32/64-bit ($139.00 @ Shopping Express) Total: $2916.50 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-28 17:38 AEDT+1100 PCCG wishlist for 7700k: https://www.pccasegear.com/wish_lists/763867 PCCG wishlist for 8700k: https://www.pccasegear.com/wish_lists/758787/8700k Build The system is pretty much just for gaming. So yea, pccg are expecting more shipments in early November, so I was wondering what the likelihood of me being able to grab one is? Whether they'll sell out instantly and if I should just go with the 7700k and save the $181 AUD.