Search the Community
Showing results for tags '780ti'.
-
From the album: Testing
Testing 2 780ti's in SLI on a 4K monitors. -
From the album: PC
Personal Rig (1920x1080 Image) ASRock Z77 Extreme 4 Intel i7 3770k OC @ 4.5Ghz Corsair H100i Asus DCUII OC GTX 780ti 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB (Boot Drive) Samsung 840 Evo 256 GB Samsung 840 Evo 120 GB Western Digital Black 2TB Western Digital Blue 1TB Corsair AX860i -
Recently I've been working on rebuilding a 780 TI that I got from one friend so I can give it to another friend, problem was the heat sink and shroud were detached without the original screws. I ordered a screw kit and eventually got M2.5"8 and that fit all of the holes. The problem is, for some reason the heat sink is not connecting directly, which can be told by the image below (note how the IHS has a square pattern where the heat sink has a smaller circular pattern). I'm not sure if it's just the screws not being long enough, as I screwed them in pretty tight to the point where I loosened them because it looked like the board was bending. I'm unsure what else it could be at this point so if anyone has any pointers or experience with something like this then that would be great!
-
A couple of weeks ago my 780ti went belly up. Figuring I had nothing to lose, I proceeded to disassemble the unit and see if anything obvious was wrong. What I'd found was that one of the surface mount resistors had completely come unsoldered from the board. It was one of the r33 square resistors. A simple test showed that it had failed. It was down to 0.1ohms instead of the 0.33ohms that it was supposed to have. This would have increased the current passing through to a dangerously large degree thus eventually melting the solder. Does anyone know what form factor these resistors are and where I might get some so that I might attempt to bring this back from the grave? I've tried looking for r33 resistors but I don't know the form factor or the power limit. Thank you in advance. Peace. To clarify it's an EVGA SC model.
-
So I dont really play enough games to justify spending very much on a new gpu, however used 780ti's are getting very cheap because they are pretty slow these days. Since my card has a waterblock on it, and I dont have the stock cooler, I woudnt really be able to sell it, so getting a 2nd card seems like the simplest option. Only problem is that I only have a rm650x. While it is gold rated, and pretty good from what I've read here, would it be able to handle 2 fairly high power draw cards? My cpu is overclocked but voltages are stock so power draw is likely not much more than normal.
-
Hello! I've seen an ad for two used 780Tis fairly close by, for a, what I think is a decent price. The equivalent of $225 for the pair, including the bridge. Now, I'm happy with my R9 390 and its 8 gigs of VRAM, and I run a 4K monitor, but if I were to get these cards and a better PSU (850w for all three?), would the 780Tis perform better at 1080p and 1440p than the single 390? Would you think it worth it? Is it better to just save up for a new, better GPU, or should I dick around with this for a while? The value of the GPUs can only go down. What wattage would you think I'd need for a decently efficient PSU?
-
Hey guys. I have run into a bit of an odd issue here and was hoping someone could try and help me solve it. You see I recently upgraded my graphics card from a 780 ti to a 1080 ti. When playing any games (even low intensive games such as Of Orcs and Men) with the 1080 ti, the graphics seem very "slow" in comparison to what I would get with my 780ti. Not in terms of fps, as I get more with the 1080 ti and enough with the 780 ti. I'm not really sure how to explain it. It almost feels as though I'm running at a slower fps than I actually am. It's similar to that noticeable visual difference/feeling when you go from 144hz back down to 60hz even though I'm at 144hz. I can't see consistent trails but things just don't seem as smooth and almost seem choppy. I don't know if it's a type of lag, stuttering or what it is. When I put the 780ti back in, this issue disappears. It’s most noticeable when I do any sort of camera movement in any game. Almost like it’s struggling to show me the picture at a consistent rate and lags behind. On both cards I am getting considerable fps (all above 60) while even more so on the 1080 ti so that's not an issue. I have done a complete clean install of all Nvidia drivers, disabled that Win 10 Xbox DVR streaming thing, disabled streaming within Geforce, played with various settings in game and out of game etc. Nothing has fixed it. I used the same TN 1ms 1080p monitor (while I'm waiting on my new 1440p) with DVI, when I tested both cards. I've tried both cards on 60hz, 120hz and 144hz but mainly use 144hz. Does anybody have any ideas on what this could be and how to fix it? I've tried everything I can think of at this point so hopefully someone here can give me some more ideas. CPU Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory Video Card Asus Strix 780ti OC / Asus Strix 1080 ti OC Case Corsair Vengeance C70 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Monitor BenQ XL2420Z 24.0" 144Hz Monitor
-
My GTX 780 ti has been repeatedly ceasing video output across all its ports. I believe this started around the time I installed driver update 382.05, at first I thought it was Fallout 4 due to reading that it caused driver issues for some in the past. I'll be adding in some of my correspondence to the owner of the 780 ti which I am borrowing. The fans only only went to max that second time, I have not seen that behavior since. Note that the GPU has never ceased output during a game. I haven't tried a new PCI-E slot or opened my computer case. I'm saving that for last after I've exhausted software options. From the fan exhaust area I can see that the 780 ti is lit even after ceasing output. I completely uninstalled my nvidia drivers. Though when I installed the 378.92 drivers fresh the installer was showing me that a 382.xx driver was still installed. I thought it worked as of last night since I had no problems until I started Premiere, after about thirty seconds output ceased. Restarting my computer does not work consistently. Often there is no output, and twice I've gotten a black screen with a white line with a few blue and green dots (photo attached) after the boot screen (from different outputs). After a longer length of time I can turn the computer back on and everything is fine. So that's where I am now. If there's anything more on the software side I could check I'd like to. System specs below: Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S CPU: i7 6700k (factory clocks) RAM: g.skill ripjaws V DDR4 3000MHz GPU: nVidia GTX 780 ti ("founders edition") Power Supply: EVGA Supernova G3 650w Gold Storage: 250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD and 2TB HGST/Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 7200rpm OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Everything had been running smoothly since March 12th with no issues. Please let me know if there's any other information I can provide. Thanks in advance!
-
Hi when ever I play an older title game or some new ones after about 10 minutes my screen goes black and I can hear sound for 10 seconds. and i can hear the GPU fans spin up to 100%. I have found that I can fix this with a 100mhz underclock but need a better fix Thanks
-
Hi, I'm looking to get a water cooler for my reference GTX 780Ti as it gets very hot and very loud after long gaming sessions. I have looked at the Corsair HG10 but I don't know the difference between the H45, H55, H60, H75 and H80i. All these coolers seem to be very similar with 120mm fans but I'm guessing the difference lies in the pump. Any suggestions? p.s. I have looked at the NZXT option but I dislike the look of the bracket they use, however could I use an NZXT Kraken with the Corsair HG10? Thanks! -
Feel free to bounce this into the correct sub-forum if this isn't the correct place. Can I get an educated opinion on what I should pay for this system and peripherals? Thank you. Edit: If I can get this at "the right price", should I really make the purchase? Is this still a relevant computer in 2017? Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Silent ATX Midtower Computer Case Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K Haswell Quad-Core 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 CPU Cooling: Noctua NH-D15 6 Heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans Memory: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 8GB (2 Sticks of 4GB) Hard Drive (SSD): OCZ Vector 150 Series 2.5" 240GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) Hard Drive (HDD): Secondary Storage Hard Drive Western Digital 1TB SATA Hard Drive Video Card: Nvidia Geforce GTX 780 Ti Superclocked 3GB Power Supply: OCZ 1000W PSU Gold Case Cooling Fans: (Multiple) Cougar CF-V14HP 140mm COUGAR CF-V14HP Vortex Hydro-Dynamic-Bearing (Fluid) Monitors: (#1) BenQ Gaming XL2720T 27" 1080p (1ms/144Hz) LED Backlit LCD Monitor (#2) Acer G276HL 27" 1080p LED-Backlit LCD Monitor Mouse: Logitech G500s Gaming Mouse Keyboard: Logitech G105 Gaming Programmable Keyboard
-
Looking at getting a MSI GTX1080Ti new for $960, (That's Australian Dollars BTW) They normally start new at $1,300 or getting a GTX1080 for $650, or just waiting until they come down in price. I'm currently have two GTX780Ti's which is enough, however I would like to upgrade as I am thinking on getting a 3440x1440 100hz ultrawide monitor. I guess the only reason I was looking at the Ti version was because it may not devalue as quick. I'm still currently using my fantastic 59hz 1080p panel
-
Hi. So I recently upgraded to a 1080ti and I took my old 780ti out of its water block and back onto its default shroud but now, in a different system, it instantly overheats under any amount of load other than idle?! I am told that VRM thermal pads may be the issue but how much of an impact will those tiny thermal pads that are in direct contact with the shrouds plastic really be able to have? Other possible issues I can think of include; 1) Some sort of damage during reconstruction 2) Incompatibility with the old MOBO I was trying to put it into 3) Shockingly ineffective thermal paste on the GPU? IDK, any help is appreciated. Thanks.
-
Hi LTT Forumers, Since I've bought this GTX 780 ti (used), it has been giving me issues. The original owner had a waterblock on it, therefore some screws are missing from the card when the reference cooler is put on. When I originally bought the card, the card would run really hot, and would constantly require undervolting just to run at under 85 degrees celcius.Today I decided to try and clean the card, including rethermals to the GPU die in order to get better temps and less noise from the card. Unfortunately, when I Was done with the card, I realized that the issue wasn't in the dust inside the card, but instead the issue was that the 4 screws on the backplate were not there, and instead 2 screws were forcefully jammed in the slots to attempt to keep the heatsink tightly pressed against the die.Now, this forcing of the two screws may have done the job keeping the card from crashing at least, but after I redid the thermals on the die, I wasn't able to force the screws back in, and the result is that now my card shuts down from overheating every time I try and open a game.Here's what I've already done to try and solve the issue:-I've contacted zotac, asking them for replacement screws, but since it is a rather old card and zotac is notorious for providing bad support, I doubt they will send me a replacement set of screws.-I've searched online for replacement screws: I couldn't find any replacement screws online for the 780ti. If anyone can send me a link to where I can get replacement screws, it would be greatly appreciated!Either way, at this point, I really don't know what I should do. Should I try to get new screws and attempt to fix the card, or should I just trash to card and get a new one?Either way, any help is appreciated!
-
Computer specs: i7 2600 (OC'ed to 4.5ghz) Gigabyte z68x-ud3h-b3 2x 780ti in SLI 12GB 1333mhz (4x2 and 2x2) CM1000i PSU I'm currently running into issues relating to playing games and overall higher temps with the graphics cards. When nothing is running the temps are usually sitting around 60C-70C and while playing GTA on factory clocked settings, the game often encounters the error "err gx d3d init". Also with the new game PUBG, I have to run everything on low and even then I get extremely choppy FPS and also crashes a lot.The only fix that I have found for both of the games is to underclock both of the cards by -105 Core, -130 Memory. Send help
-
I have an ASUS gtx780ti. One day when i turned on the computer, the fans started running at 100% from the second I press the start button. I have changed the fan profile in MSI Afterburner, but it changes nothing. The graphics run fine, and i see no problem. When ideling there is no load on the gpu, but the fans still run at over 3000 rpm. Have tried updating the drivers and the cards bios. Still, no change. Any ideas?
-
Hello, I am new to this forum, So I don’t know the protocols or what to do etc. I have a problem: Whenever I open a game like GTA or something else that is GPU intensive, The screen just goes black, And the GPU fan goes 100% (4100RPM i measured with a tachometer). I checked Event Viewer to ensure something isn’t wrong with my drivers/software, but nothing to be seen. I have tried everything in the book; Fresh installing Nvidia drivers, Trying different OS like Ubuntu and Windows 7 etc, Lowering down settings in games, Limiting VRAM usage, Under-clocking my core Hz from 980MHz to 800 and memory also by a -100MHz, Checking temps (only gets up to 70C which is normal on a FE). I must admit, My card (A Founders 780Ti) is 250 and my PSU is only 550W (The issue I think is also by the CPU i7-3970X also another ~200W) Because of this concern, I did a mad lad move and installed a secondary PSU externally and jumping the green wire on 24-pin with ground and connecting both the 6Pin and the 8Pin required only to the secondary PSU and the other reserved for the Mobo, CPU, etc.. However, This had no difference on the frequency in “crashes”. I had lost hope and tried the last resort, Changing the thermal paste (Even though core temps were ~60C, the air and the PCI back plate measured 80C using a Flir IR camera) I used Thermal Grizzly Liquid Metal, And has not made a difference. I think the situation is something to do with the card itself, So I contacted Nvidia, But they couldn’t help. Any help here would be greatly appreciated as this is my childhood rig from 2012-2013 and I need it back. Any experiences or thoughts, Please drop it down in the thread. Thanks to all. -Angle My specs: i7-3970X @3.5GHz (LGA 2011, No OC) Asus X79 Sabertooth Motherboard 2x DDR3 8GB RAM 1600 MHz GeForce GTX 780Ti (Founders, Mfg by Palit) 550W PSU, Azza fusion 4000 case. If you need any logs, etc i can provide that. thanks again -
So my computer randomly restarted when I came in my room and then it loaded up fine. Card is a 780ti. Only have the issue when running video through it. On board graphics work fine. Until it crashed and booted up like this. I have reseated the card and nothing changes. Wat do. Is it the end?
-
I know GPU prices are going down right now, so I would like to ask: what's a reasonable price for a used 780 ti? I'm doing a budget build right now and I know it's risky going used and also using the 7 series, but it's supposed to be a budget build so I'm trying to spend as less money as possible.
-
Can someone confirm that a 780ti can’t do more than 144Hz on 1440p? I can’t find any specs on this matter. I have a Dell S2417DG set on native 1440p that can be overclocked up to 165Hz. This setting is on. However, my OS (Win 10 x64) won’t show me the 165Hz refresh rate option - only max. 144Hz. Is it because I’m doing something wrong (although I think I tried and checked everything), or is it because the 780ti can’t actually go any further? Thanks!
-
Hey, i am in a really hurry to be able to get a really good deal on a used GPU But i do not know if it will fit my Core 500 case! I have had a 780ti Palit Jetstream which almost did fit but not quite. The gpu in question now is the Gainward 970 Phantom. I cant find measurements online for width. Can someone help?! THANKS!
-
Hi, I've found a 780Ti AMP! 3GB card for around $145 online, and I was wondering whether this would be a worthy upgrade from my 4GB 960 FTW, especially since I would be loosing a gig of vram. Thanks
-
I was wondering if I should go for an EVGA GTX 780ti classified for my first budget gaming build. I got a deal for a barely used one from my friend's techy friend for about AU$200. Also what does "classified" mean?
-
Hi Linus Tech Tips Forum. Thinking I might upgrade the graphics in my 'pooter. Saw a GTX 780Ti 3GB on sale locally, I currently have a GTX 780 3GB in my rig. So I am told you have to have the same chipset and the same Vram for SLI to work. Vram is the same, I think the GPUs are the same (can anyone confirm?) So my question is can I run a GTX 780 3GB and a GTX 780Ti 3GB in SLI? or would I be better off putting the money towards and 10x0 card with 8GB of VRam? Your collective wisdom is sought. Thanks. Meme. -
I just received a new monitor, the Acer XF270HU. This is a 1440 144hz monitor and I am currently looking for more gpu power. Right now I have an EVGA 780Ti SC, but I am thinking about getting one of the aftermarket RX 480's and then getting a matching one shortly after that for Crossfire. I am just a little confused by benchmarks saying that the 780Ti has better pixel and texel rates. I know this is an old card based on a dated architecture. I was considering a 1070, but then the thought of an AMD card to utilize Freesync that this monitor has. From my research it appears that Crossfire reference 480's have similar performance to one 1070. I have also never ran a dual-GPU setup before. Which leads me to another question. My EVGA PSU has 2 PCI-E connectors, both with 2 6+2 pin connectors on each. Could I run one PCI-E cable and plug in each connector into the two cards? Or is it recommended to run 2 cables with the extra connector just hanging there. The PSU is an EVGA G2 750W. From my experience, people have told me it's best to run 1 powerful card vs 2 weaker cards. Like I said, I'd think it'd be fun to try out a dual GPU setup. However, I wouldn't mind waiting around for a RX 490 to see what that offers, even though rumors state that it will be a dual layer gpu. I don't really mind the 780Ti right now, most of my PC gaming consists of DotA 2 which that and my CPU run at 144 fps anyway. I would like to start chipping away at my backlog, so games like Witcher 3, Doom, DS 3, Rise of the Tomb Raider and Division (might start playing it again, bleh) I see are harder to run with my old card. Oh and BF1 when it comes out. What do you guys think I should do? Is the Freesync worth it? Even the GTX 1070 and 1080 don't seem to offer enough power to provide 144 fps at 1440p. Save for DotA and Overwatch. Btw, coming from a 1080 60hz IPS display to this Acer is amazing. DotA is much more fluid and mousing around on the desktop is nice too.
.jpg.9a02e5a5823707f376adf4741e8dd666.jpg)
