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I found this just browsing newegg and i noticed rx 480s and 470s are way over priced right now! any thoughts on why?

Hi, I recently moved and re-assembled my whole setup. For whatever reason, it WILL NOT display 2 monitors. I've had both screens work, just not at the same time! I can NOT figure it out, and the one not displaying is on brand new cables that I know for a fact work. Then when I unplugged my main monitor for some reason the other one would display. Wondering what type of possible fixes I can try, I know I was rather vague, but there is no explanation behind it as far as I can see.

So I was just browsing the General section of the forum and I started to notice some consistencys with pre built systems and I have no real explanation for them. Why! What kind of fan chewing rodent warrants useing a grill on the inside of your computer. Most people don't even know what's inside a computer, nevermind cracking it open an digging in running fans. If anyone knows the purpose of this because I have no idea.

Alright, i am a bit pissed at Phanteks right now. So we all know of the beautiful Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX GLASS case, and yes that is a really sexy case. But; The cheaper version of it, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX GLASS, is just as big and has just as much space inside of it but can only fit a micro-ATX motherboard!? There is just as much space inside of the m-ATX version as in every other ATX case, so why can't they just make it fit with an ATX motherboard!?

This build is beautiful, I laughed; very hard. https://au.pcpartpicker.com/b/HNcYcf

Guys, I just flashed my Palit GTX970 Jetstream sevral times now and I get almost the same results as before. What might be the rason? Are Palit cards hard locked or what? In benchmarks i have higher scores but in BF4 my core was 1515mhz now is 1519mhz or maybe 15130 -something. WHAT IS THE REASON ????The screen shows 1605mhz but it crashes. i give a link to the BIOS i edited:https://mega.nz/#!4hZknLYL!_ZR8yANMLDEOrD30ePV5TFyUfggvXOhNKM0b-hRdzBQ

So long story short I've decided to build an extreme high end AMD Threadripper system, and have begun buying parts bit by bit to achieve this goal. This will be my first ever PC build, and I want to make it as balls to the walls as is humanly possible. And since I am (obviously) A glutton for punishment, I put together a partslist for this monster so that you may all revel in my lack of ability to manage money. Also it should go without saying that if any of you can point me to a place where I can buy/ sell me any parts for cheap that would be greatly appreciated. PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sVyZbj Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sVyZbj/by_merchant/ CPU: AMD - Threadripper 1950X 3.4GHz 16-Core Processor ($999.00 @ Amazon) Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($5.84 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus - ROG ZENITH EXTREME EATX TR4 Motherboard ($549.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair - Dominator Platinum 64GB (8 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($804.99 @ Corsair) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.64 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.64 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.64 @ OutletPC) Storage: *Intel - 600p Series 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($339.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $33.00) Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $50.50) Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $50.50) Video Card: *Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Turbo Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($709.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: *Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Turbo Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($709.00 @ Amazon) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Primo ATX Full Tower Case (Purchased For $224.99) Power Supply: *SeaSonic - PRIME Gold 1200W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($196.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($23.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Anidees - AI Halo Nuclear Green 39.7 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90) Case Fan: Anidees - AI Halo Nuclear Green 39.7 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90) Case Fan: Anidees - AI Halo Nuclear Green 39.7 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90) Case Fan: Anidees - AI Halo Nuclear Green 39.7 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90) Case Fan: Anidees - AI Halo Nuclear Green 39.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($12.90 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Anidees - AI Halo Nuclear Green 39.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($12.90 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Anidees - AI Halo Nuclear Green 39.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($12.90 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Anidees - AI Halo Nuclear Green 39.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($12.90 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Anidees - AI Halo Nuclear Green 39.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($12.90 @ Amazon) Monitor: Acer - XB321HK BMIPHZ 32.0" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor ($1099.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: Acer - Predator XB271HUA 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor Monitor: Acer - Predator XB271HUA 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor Keyboard: Logitech - G810 Orion Spectrum RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($107.99 @ Best Buy) Keyboard: Ducky - Ducky Shine 5 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $125.00) Mouse: Logitech - G502 Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased For $55.99) Headphones: Logitech - G933 Artemis Spectrum 7.1 Channel Headset ($132.99 @ Amazon) Headphones: Sennheiser - HD 800 S Headphones ($1517.04 @ Amazon) Other: EK-RAM Monarch X4 - Acetal+Nickel ($51.99) Other: EK-RAM Monarch X4 - Acetal+Nickel ($51.99) Other: EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate - Black ($34.99) Other: EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate - Black ($34.99) Other: EK-FC1080 GTX Ti - Acetal+Nickel ($129.99) Other: EK-FC1080 GTX Ti - Acetal+Nickel ($129.99) Other: EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite (incl. pump) ($149.99) Other: EK-XTOP DDC 3.2 PWM Elite - Acetal (incl. pump) ($115.99) Other: EK-RES X3 150 (Purchased For $54.99) Other: EK-CoolStream PE 120 (Single) (Purchased For $45.99) Other: EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad) (Purchased For $69.99) Other: EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad) (Purchased For $99.99) Other: EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual) (Purchased For $45.00) Other: Thermaltake V-Tubler PETG Tube 12mm OD 10mm ID 1000mm 4 Pack ($14.99) Other: Pacific RGB G1/4 PETG Tube 16mm OD 12mm ID ($79.99) Other: Pacific RGB G1/4 PETG Tube 16mm OD 12mm ID ($79.99) Other: Pacific RGB G1/4 PETG Tube 16mm OD 12mm ID ($79.99) Total: $9747.34 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-04 11:48 EDT-0400

Why create Floatplane instead of just using Patreon? Is there some absurd difference or benefit? I already have Patreon and would easily join a $10 LTT Tier. This question is mainly directed at LTT Staff for a little inside information.

Hi everyone I have an issue, I have a Dell Inspiron 15 5000 Series, the model is the Inspiron 5555 After using it for a while I decided to let it rest, so a turn it off, when I came back the laptop won't turn on, the battery was fully charged and everything was working great!! but after that shutdown doesn't turn on, I already tried a few things Pushing the power button withouth the cable and the battery on the Laptop, I tried it for, 5, 10, 15, 20, 30 and 60 seconds on different times and didn't work, sometimes it showed me like a white/amber led but didn't show anything and it won't turn on, and in a different occasion gave me a flashing fully white led, but it again didn't work, it doesn't give me any beep or anything also I tried doing the same steps withouth the HDD, RAM and BIOS Battery, again no different result Why is happening this to me haha :(? The computer has the latest Windows 10 Update, 12 GB Ram, A10 Proccesor, HDD 1TB Here's a link of the computer on Amazon if you need it: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Inspiron-15-5555-A10-8700P-2-2GHz/dp/B0163Q724Q Thank you so much for wasting your time on my case haha, I'm really desperate!

So I have a USB Drive, when I plug it into the front usb ports it doesn't work. When I plug it in the back however, it does. I tried plugging in a different usb port in the front ports, and it works just fine. So what the heck is going on here? I hope that explanation makes sense, it kinda sounds like a riddle. Thanks

Hey Everyone, It's my first thread here, but..... I've been running a Minecraft server on a dedicated Windows Server 2012 machine, and recently was infected by a Ransomware that added .arena file extensions. I've tried the Trend Micro ransomware decrypter. Anyone have any ideas or should I wait for Trend Micro to release an update? I've attached a file (the start.bat file from the server) that was encrypted by the malware. Any help would be appreciated. *File removed*

Hi Guys, I wanted to share a truly awful PC build I did. It's made out of actual garbage. Here's the parts list to start out with: CPU: AMD FX-8350 WHY IS IT GARBAGE? This CPU came from a friend's PC. It blue screened all the time and then got some bent pins when examined. He upgraded and was going to throw it away. MOBO: Some ASUS board I have no idea what kind. 970 FX chipset (I think) WHY IS IT GARBAGE? Mobo from friend who was tossing the CPU. Assumed bad. RAM: 4 x 2 GB sticks of old DDR3 WHY IS IT GARBAGE? Memory pulled from work PCs that were headed to the recycling center (I work in IT, I can't take whole PCs but I can pull some working components) COOLER: Random CPU cooler pulled from a dead HP Z620 workstation WHY IS IT GARBAGE? The old Z620 workstation was getting recycled, so I pulled the cooler. GPU: I started building this PC with a Quadro 4000 from the same Z620 that the cooler came from. When it didn't have the outputs I needed to test the PC I swapped it for a friend's old R7 260X WHY IS IT GARBAGE? The Quadro 4000 would thermal shut down (thanks, Fermi) and was a big reason the Z620 was getting recycled (and it was super old) The 260X was replaced with a 970 long ago. PSU: EVGA 500 watt WHY IS IT GARBAGE? It's not, I just had it laying around from an old build. STORAGE: Adata 120 GB SSD WHY IS IT GARBAGE? It's not, I just wanted an SSD and 120 GB was good enough for testing So how did I fix the parts? I took everything apart. Cooler off of the GPU (I did the same thing for both), heatsinks off of the mobo, pretty much just stripping down everything. Then I hit everything with brake cleaner. This stuff is great, it will take everything off while drying quickly and leaving no residue. I reapplied fresh thermal paste to everything and it all worked great. I fixed the pins on the CPU and everything worked great. Why an Amazon box for the case? I thought it was funny. I set to using zip ties to hold everything in. I just poked holes into the cardboard and zip tied everything. The box is actually extremely solid. I just kept cutting and zip tying. The power button is an old button I found laying around that I soldered to some old speaker wire. I took the motherboard end and spliced an old fan header to it so I could easily attach and detach it. After everything was in, I got some cheap fans and fan grills and gave it some airflow. Temps are good and the PC is fairly quiet. As quiet as cheap fans can be. The image with the 260X in it is the PC up and running. I played some Overwatch on it and it was 100% solid, overclocked and everything. Solid 60 FPS on lowerish settings.

Hello Guys! Recently I noticed thatthe price of my desired GPU for an upcoming build become simply too high, a GTX 1060 6Gb. A couple weeks ago it was just 240€ and now its around 600€ (WTF!!!). this is also the case with 1070, 1080/ti and the AMD RX500 series. WHAT THE FRICKING HELL?!?!? Almost 200% prices? As it turns out it's because of cryptominers (again) who buy extensive amounts (about 6 cards for ONE build), so they can make profit. This trend became so big, that production capabilities were overpassed, and stocks, emptied, so producers had to raise the prices. BUT TO FRICKING INSANE LEVELS. What can we do, who don't want mid-advanced cards? I personally choose GTX1060 6gb because it's one of the few 'cheapo' GPUs with official VR support (for a possible future upgrade)

I was just on here the other day getting help finding a gaming laptop that was thin and portable. Well I might not need a gaming laptop, it really all depends on whether or not I'm going to be able to bring my desktop to school. So as a way to broaden my horizon on laptop options I'm back to see what kind of laptop I would want if I CAN bring my desktop (which can handle anything) to school. Needs. -Good battery life. This is the only must on the list, I just cant have something that's gonna die on me halfway through a lecture, or whatever they do in college. Wants. -4k display. (Idk I think it'd be cool) -Performance -Good build quality -1500$ (I can be a little flexible but not to much) Alright so I know I just described the Dell XPS 15, which is a laptop I really want...but it's a little over budget for the model I would want (i7, gtx 1050, 512 ssd), and it seems to have a lot of quality control issues. The Razer Blade Stealth seems like a good option too, I just really wish they had a 4k display on that 13" model with the thinner bezels...I am considering the 12" 4k model too. So basically just throw whatever at me, use the list of wants as more of guidelines than rules. Thank you in advance for whatever you throw my way, it's much appreciated.

So I keep looking at keyboard reviews (cause they're cool) and I keep seeing the 'windows lock key' on a lot of keyboards. What does this 'Windows lock key' do? Why is it there?

its not that that it lags everytime i unplugged the charger. this just happens when gaming. is there anywhere to make it not lag using battery only while gaming. thanks in advance

When i was looking to get my first pc a while ago and found alot of videos where they get an old dell ( like an optiplex 3020) from ebay, add 16gb ram, an ssd and a 750ti/1060 depending on how capable the rest of the system is. But my main question is that those videos are directed to first time pc builders on a budget right ??? So my question is how is an inexperienced person meant to be able to find the correct drivers for the pc, because i have been through about 20 videos doing the exact same thing and none of them show you how to do it !!! Is it just me that notices this, even the big tech youtubers like bitwit who recently released his $285 console killer system that follows that exact same formula. Im not annoyed at them in any way and i actually think its a great way for someone to build a PC on a budget, its just that they never show any of the driver installation, like there just leaving the viewer to do all the dirty work, and when its a first time builder it can put them off building there own pc and resorting to getting a prebuilt. This is an example of the budget dells - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dell-Optiplex-3020-MT-Intel-i5-4590-3-30GHz-8GB-RAM-No-HDD/113761256676?hash=item1a7cb304e4:g:QWQAAOSwgaNc6V~N&frcectupt=true

its one simple question thats killing me and i think i know the answer but i want to make sure, why are laptop mechanical hard drives so slow, its killing me, i have to wait like 3 minutes for my laptop disk activity to go down to at least 60% after opening it from sleep, yes sleep not boot up, its a hitachi 700gb hard drive and its gettin slow, looking for a ssd but for now i just want to know why.

It's probably a one in a million issue but the last time I updated windows it made it so ethernet will not pass internet. It shows that I'm connected, says theres internet but cannot connect to anything. I have 2 ethernet ports with one connecting to my server for network storage and I tried swapping them. Obviously I change the metric so the priority is correct and it still won't give internet. Wifi still works atleast.... I'm going to check for new drivers and see if I can fix it but it's annoying. Windows update always breaks something for me....

I can't find any info online so I turn to the darkest corner of the web... the Linus Tech Tips forum. Here's my question. What is keeping intel from getting 10nm on desktop, why does it work for the laptop architecture, and what is causing shortages. We know the "demand" excuse is probably false or insignificant. Also I guess that's three questions.

So I have g-sync enabled on my Asus MG248. Everytime my monitor shuts down or i manually turn it off - the 2nd display resets its dekstop positions. I have things like teamspeak and msi afterburner on the secondary display. It all transfers to main display after shutting off/on the main display that has g-sync enabled. When g-sync is disabled this problem is non existant. Who has some ideeas?

so...... I have no idea why but either a windows update or just bad luck have made every security software I can find not work on my computers, like everything was working fine and now nothing works, everything can connect in browser but all of them fail in software in both DCS-100 and blue iris. Even some of them check out in the little test thing in blue iris and then fail to connect afterwords for multiple different error codes but again in browser they all work and even on my phone with the ip camera app they work. I have no idea what to do and I really hate my cameras being offline but literally they just won't connect and there seems to be no reason why, I even disable virus and malware protection long enough to test and it made no effect.

Why does Intel have to use like friggin baby powder as thermal paste to attach it's IHSes... like... why intel? Why do you make us delid ?

Wouldn't it be faster?

My pc won't turn on. I press the power switch but it won't turn on. The motherboard is receiving power as the green light lights up. I got a new power supply as the old one had weird noises comming from it. The power button does work because I used a tester on it. I have concluded that its the motherboard, cpu or the ram please help me because I don't have enough money to buy all three just one of them. I have also checked all the cables and they have no problem. My system spec is: Cpu: Xeon e3 1225 Gpu: Gtx 1070 Strix MB: asus P8B75m-le Ram: ddr3 8gb 1600mhz 1 stick HDD: 512gb Seagate Case: Aerocool bolt Old psu: corsair tx650 New psu: corsair cx550 Cpu cooler: arctic freezer v1 It used to work before until I fixed some cable managing and then would not turn on.