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Showing results for tags 'usb'.
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I've seen this error happen to a few others so thought I'd see if anyone has solved this type of issue. I recently built a PC a few days ago, with an i9-13900k and a 4090. The motherboard is the GIGABYTE Z790 UD and my PSU is the InWinClassic Basic Series CB-1250W 80+ Platinum Modular Power Supply, 1250W. This error just started happening where all my USB devices that are connected will simultaneously turn off, then restart after a few seconds (1-3 seconds max, but my headset and mouse/keyboard all turnoff.) I have a razer keyboard, mouse, mouse pad, and logitech headset, and webcam plugged in. I had a 2080 with a i9-9900k before this with all the same devices that I used and this issue never happened once till I built my new pc just a few days ago. I've tried uninstalling all the USB devices, updating the BIOS, redownloading new drivers, disabling the selective suspend settings, turning off "allow the computer to turn off this device" in device manager. Is there anything else I can try? This is rather annoying, as I'm scared to play games since it randomly occurs at different moments. I'm on windows 11 too. tldr; All USB connected devices seem to turn off and after a few seconds turn back on together Thanks
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So my PC is about a year old and every time I play games, my USB's disconnect and reconnect (my keyboard, mouse, headset and microphone), sometimes they don't even reconnect and I've got to take the USB's out and back in for them to reconnect. I thought maybe it wasn't getting enough power but my cable is a CORSAIR 850W RMx SERIESTM MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD and is going straight into a power socket. Please if anyone knows why this is happening I would love to fix it as its happening almost every time I try to game something.
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- disconnecting
- usb
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Hello all! I recently built a new PC, and have been having stability issues regarding USBs. I'm nervous it may be a hardware/mobo issue, but wanted to troubleshoot the best I can before taking a stab at an RMA.... Build: MoBo: Asus Z-790-H (current BIOS) CPU: 13900K GPA: Asus Tuf 3090 ti OS: Windows 11 PSU: Asus ROG 1000W Issue: Every few hours, all of my USBs seem to randomly disconnect for a second. It recovers quickly, and all the devices pop back on immediately after. I had thought it was an overloaded USB controller, so bought a PCIe USB hub to spread out some of my 'heavier' devices, but made no impact. I'm not sure if it is a hardware issue or software compatibility issue, and honestly don't have any idea where to start looking to find the root cause. Any hints or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Happy to post error logs or whatever, as long as you tell me where to find them :D. Sidenote, I also was having issues with audio, which I tracked down to WaveLink. Doubt it's related, as the restart still happens even if I close out that program - but thought I'd share for added context. Thank you!!!
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Are there any good thunderbolt hubs that only have USB ports? Ive been looking but I can only find docks with some USB and other things I dont really need.
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- thunderbolt
- usb
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Is this what used to be a USB 2.0 type A male, that i just took apart, in anyway capable of running malicious software or code on my pc if plugged in? I can provide better pictures if requested
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It was previously working, the usb ports on my monitor, both providing power and functionality through the use of the usb-a cable, but after i tried connecting a usb extension with more usb slots available, and plugging something into that, i got a "power surge" notification, and since then the monitor has not provided power to it's usb ports. new monitor, only got it 2 days ago.
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Wondering if I could get some advice. A buddy of mine gave me an old used laptop, a 13 year old Dell Vostro 3500. Its immaculate, well taken care of and I use it just to browse the web and do MS Office stuff. For that it works perfectly. There is no graphics card. CPU is a Core i3-370M @ 2.40Ghz 8GB RAM Win10 Home To watch YouTube when at home I hook the laptop up via HDMI to a small projector. The laptop chugs along for about 20 minutes or so and then immediately shuts down. The underside and side vents could likely fry an egg. The same thing happens when accessing a USB stick for a while. The stick itself gets super hot, the laptop even hotter and it shuts down. This only happens if writing/reading large files not for small read-writes. I used CoreTemps logging feature and it showed the CPU reached 89°C and then the laptop shut down. When not doing any of these things the laptop runs perfectly. What could cause it to try to melt itself when I use HDMI or the USB ports?
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looking for a semi slim fast charger block or brick. I also would like USB c and USB a to be on it. the only ones I can find are from anker and are too big with those ports and also fast charging. Anker makes a slim one but only one usb c port. anyone have any suggestions ?
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Has anyone found a good solution to the problem of terrifyingly fragile USB 3.0 motherboard connectors? I've considered getting a low profile angled one that should allow the thick and janky default header that most cases come with to safely reside in the back. Has anyone tried anything like this out? This janky fragile POS that I've busted or bent pins because of multiple times. This is something I've thought of doing just so I can safely stash the actual connector in the rear and not worry about torquing the heck out of it to get a seamless run. I've had dozens of scenarios over the years where this has been a problem, just never thought to actually fix it.
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Hi, I got a 5120x1440 120hz 49' ultrawide monitor and want to connect it to my M1 macbook pro. Im looking for a USB Dock that supports the monitor at its max resolutions and frequency. A dock that also has a few usb 3.0's and usb-c's, supports charging via the dock and has SD card reader. Is there anyone that can recommend me one? Help is much appreciated. Thanks
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I'm having this weird issue where audio will start turning more and more to static and usb inputs will be dropped/stutter. This happens randomly (sometimes every few hours, sometimes it's fine for weeks) but it might be related to cpu load? It seems to start more when I'm doing something cpu intensive but it will persist after the load has stopped. The only way I've found to fix it is to reboot. This has persisted through multiple installs of windows and drivers. Curious if anyone else has seen something similar. I also thought it might be my kind of jank usb controlled fan speed thing (a script that will read Temps and just echo 0-255 to a COM port) but disconnecting that makes no difference. I also thought it might be related to my newish monitors usb hub because I couldn't remember if it happened before I switched to this monitor but again disconnecting that monitor entirely doesn't change it. Edit: also tried removing the cpu undervolt to see if it helped, it didn't.
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I bought this USB-A 3.0 to ethernet adapter, connected it to a USB 3 port, but i'm only getting about 300mbps. It turns out that the adapter negotiated a USB 2.0 connection (as shown by USB Device Tree Viewer) However, if i use the "restart port" feature, it is then recognised as USB 3 as you can see here My laptop has windows 11 fully updated, latest chipset and realtek drivers installed. I tested the adapter on 3 others laptops with windows 11, same damn problem. I tested two others USB-A 3 to ethernet adapter (amazon and asus), same behaviour. Then, I tested the adapter on Windows 10, and it worked as expected! I instantly got a USB 3 link. It seems like this issue is specific to Windows 11., what can i do?
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I am helping my brother upgrade his PC, he has a new processor and motherboard that supports windows 11. I am trying to create the USB tool before I take apart his current PC, but it won't let me because it says it's not compatible. How do I create a USB to install windows 11 once I get the new PC built? is there a better way to do this?
- 9 replies
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- windows 11
- media creation tool
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Hi everyone. I've started working on a college project, which would be my end of degree (from here, it'll be called EOD) project. In my college, this is made with a proffesor, which is my EOD tutor, and then it's presented to a jury for them to see if it's a good project. We're working with an FPGA (an ICEBreaker board) that is used as a SoC for robotic applications. My EOD consists on designing and printing a modular robotic system for the FPGA to be implemented. these FPGAs are also part of a project for a subject of my degree, so it comes quite handy. One of the challlenges there is with the FPGA is that in order to get it reprogrammed you'd have to disconect it from the power input of the robot and get it connected to the computer, program it, reconnect it to the power input, and then rinse and repeat. This is a challenge to overcome. from what I've seen about the board, it's connected via a micro USB cable, which then gets to a USB 2.0 to connect to the computer. So, my idea to face this challenge is this: split the USB cable, so the Vcc and the gnd go to the power source's USB, and the gnd, d+ and d- go to the computer's. that way, it would keep powered on and get reprogrammed whenever I need. Would this be viable? TIA
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My wife and I have built ourselves a walking treadmill setup where we like to play slower paced games (Crusader Kings 3 primarily) and get some exercise. Unfortunately, our computers are a floor up and in a different room (I'm estimating ~100 feet away, though it could be a bit more). Currently I unplug everything and lug our two computers around (my wife has an injured back) when I want to use it for the walking treadmill but I would love a better solution that doesn't involve moving the computers. I've watched Linus' separate room PC build and the relatively new video he posted a year ago on Corning Optical Thunderbolt 3 and was inspired - unfortunately, our motherboards don't support thunderbolt and fully upgrading our systems is not currently in scope. A potential alternative seems to be an HDMI Extender or HDMI over Ethernet, which might get me the distance I'm looking for. Any thoughts if something like this Cable Matters Wall Mount HDMI Extender (HDMI Over Ethernet Cable) would work for what I'm trying to accomplish (~100 feet in distance)? Similarly, could I do the same with our USB peripherals (i.e., keyboard, mouse) with something like Cable Matters USB Over Ethernet Extender with Power Adapter? Thanks in advanced!!
- 5 replies
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- hdmi over ethernet
- usb over cat5e
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I purchased a Logitech Pro X wireless which has a USB dac to connect wirelessly and noticed pretty bad popping and crack coming from it when playing audio. I tried reseting the headset, the dac, updating drivers reinstalling G hub, disabling spread spectrum in bios. I also removed all other usb devices and disabled the Bluetooth and wifi chip to see if they were interferening, tried all usb ports as well, same result. I tested it on my steam deck and it worked perfectly fine so I know it's the pc but headphones connected via onboard Bluetooth or aux does not have this issue so I'm assuming it's the usb. I even tried a usb extension cable to distance it away from the pc. I'm pretty stumped as what to do, asrock support is useless they just said to ask the vendor I purchased it from like they would know. I feel like it's to do with power delivery or something but I have zero clue. I have included 2 audio files of a sound test that shows the difference, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Steam deck base test-1.m4a PC base test.m4a
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Hello, I recently installed the 1416 bios that asus has provided for the X670 motherboards to "fix" the SOC voltage issue. However, since i have installed this update, 3 of my USB ports have stopped functioning. They have power to them but there does not seem to be any data transfer. I have both reset the computer, reinstalled windows, manually disabled and enabled all of the USBs in the bios, checked for hardware updates, and cleaned the inside of my computer. Nothing i have done seems to fix the issue. i do not know what i should do or if there is any other options or ways to fix this issue. I do not want to send the motherboard in for RMA and not have a computer for a while on top of me not wanting to replace a motherboard. i have no done it in years and i am not at home where i can go to my local computer guy that i trust. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could guide me to different ways that i could possibly resolve this issue because i have no other ideas and i do not want to RMA this motherboard at the moment...
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- motheroard
- asus
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Windows 10 64, updated. ASUS Prime- B550 mobo AMD 5600x Using front or back USB ports, my 128GB USB 3 thumb drives are super slow. 11GB video files being copied. Lexar USB3 - Starts 100MB/s, then very quickly down to the KB/s, then for a second back to 100MB/s and sometimes just freezes at 0KB/s for a few seconds. I thought it was a bad stick Kingston USB3 DataTraveler - 7-8 MB/s, dips to 1MB occasionally, but at least it doesn't lock like the Lexar. my OLD Lexar USB3 64GB - 270MB/s, after a 10ish seconds of transfer of 11GB file, dips down to 100MB/s at times but finishes copying no problem. Drivers up-to-date. Tried different formats (exFat, NTFS) on the Lexar and Kingston. After the latest ASUS news, wondering if it's just ASUS stuff. I saw another ASUS user with slow USB issues (unresolved), and googling around I've see other users with posts on newer and larger sticks having super slow speeds. But older (usually smaller) sticks being fine.
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Recent got given a node 202, and i have always liked the case. And i was curious if anyone knows of a cable that splits from the motherboard 3.1 gen 1 connector (think its called type e?) To a usb 3.0 and a type c connector?
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Hello all, this is an urgent plea, as I need to set up a laptop for slideshow at an event by Tuesday. I have a USB stick with Slax installed from Universal USB installer. And I created a command to start feh with appropriate image folder (using the folder "slideshow" from the root of the USB stick) and options. The thing is, I need it to run automatically when the machine boots. I don't care whether the desktop is visible first or not, I just need it to work. I want to press the power button, it to load slax, and slax to auto launch feh for the slideshow. I have already tried to get help from ChatGPT (this quickly ended up going nowhere). I have the command currently in the ~/.config/autostart.sh file. and the file is executable. Any help is appreciated!
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usb USB's randomly disconnect for a minute then reconnect
Rat_Lord posted a topic in Troubleshooting
all usbs on my device have been disconnecting for almost a minute or more. I've tried looking it up uninstalling usb 3.10 eXtensible so that the driver reinstalls. I did a fresh reinstall of windows, which at first seemed to fix it but then it happened again keyboard rgb turns off can't input anything with mouse or keyboard it was a lot faster this time only maybe 2 seconds. any help would be appreciated nuking my windows install is usually my go to fix for things and it seems to not have worked this time. all hardware is kept in pretty good conditions and a cool room with decent airflow which is why i really think its a software issue but maybe overclocking killed the usb controller or something idrk Specs: CPU: ryzen 5 5600x GPU: rtx 2080ti MB: msi b450m bazooka v2 PSU: 750W corsair 16gb of ram -
I bought this cheap DP switch, soldered off the button switch so I can control it via an ESP8266 that is hooked up to Home Assistant. The thing is the DP switch just completely cuts off the connection from PC to the other when the button is hit which means all my windows on one monitor go to my second all messed up. Since I'm on Windows 11, when I make the switch back to my first PC all the windows go back to the place they were before which is nice. It's just annoying when I switch my main monitor all the windows get messed up on my second monitor. I was wondering if there are any good DP switches out there that keep a phantom display (I think this is called EDID?) so all the windows don't go messed up on my second monitor? Ideally it's just a DP switch and not a full KVM with USBs and stuff but that's also acceptable if the video can be switched independently from the USB ports. I have a separate USB switch that switches between PCs so I can switch my mouse and keyboard to my first PC if I want to.
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- displayport
- switch
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Hello i have an advantech SBC PCM9375F and USB pins look like this (see picture) it is just opposite of a normal usb header on a motherboard. Does anyone have any idea how do i deal with this? I need this usb to be used as a boot device because my main disk or ram is corrupted in some way It is an industrial computer and the only other storage option is a IDE 2,5 inch male out made for IDE flash drives so it is useless for HDD unless i find a converter which i cant.. I also cant troubleshoot the IDE flash drive on another computer because of the same problem it has a female connector Im happy to hear any advice or new information thank you in advance