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Hi. I've been considering purchasing a Ryzen 5600X to upgrade my old 1700 and keeping my motherboard, an ASRock x370 Fatal1ty Professional Gaming (basically a Taichi, so in fact there is the unofficial firmware to support the Vermeer CPUs). Check I was just wondering if I will require an intermediate CPU, such as a 3600 to properly flash it through the bridge versions. I've only upgraded the BIOS firmware to v. 5.30 or 5.80. Newer versions have this warning: Such warning makes me wonder if upgrading it will kill the support with the Ryzen 1700 or if it will be possible to follow with the updgrades until the v.7's that support Vermeer CPUs. In case anyone could shed some light, that will be greatly appreciated!

Computer Type: Custom Build. GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 2x OC, no manual OC, I installed MSI dragon center and set Extreme Performance scenario, in normal conditions the GPU runs at 1755MHz and boosts up to 2010MHz. CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600x, (OLD OC settings: Before encountering this issue I followed a guide and find out a stable configuration, I can report my BIOS settings because I'm not an expert, PBO: enabled (advanced), PBO limits: motherboard,Precision Boost Overdrive Scalar: 4X, Max CPU Boost Clock Override: 200MHz, Curve Optimizer: All Cores negative 5. With this configuration I used the PC for several months without any problems, after this problem started I tried to restore the defaults values but nothing changed). CURRENT OC settings: only D.O.C.P. Enabled. Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX X570-F GAMING; BIOS version 4021 (08/09/2021). RAM: Crucial Ballistix BL2K8G36C16U4W 3600 MHz, DDR4, 32GB (8GB x4), CL16, D.O.C.P. Enabled. PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750, 750W, 80 plus gold. Operating System & Version: Windows 10 Pro, Version 21H2, 64 bit, OS build 19044.1526, clean install. GPU Drivers: GeFrorce Game Ready Driver Version 511.79, upgrade using Geforce Experience (latest avilable drivers). I bought all new parts and built the PC exactly one year ago. Description of the problem: During the last 6/7 months I noticed a strange behavior from my new PC, sometimes, the whole system stutters (video and audio) for like a second and then comes back to normal. I noticed this behavior independently of the load (happened in gaming and while browsing, it seems to be random) it happens like one/two times a day. I check constantly the temperatures, power loads and clock of my devices using AIDA64 extreme sensor panel on an external monitor inside the case so I can troubleshoot thing like this easier. I can say that the temperatures are good, the GPU reach max 72°C in games (38/40 in idle) but as I said before the load doesn't matter, I stutters randomly and I can't reproduce the issue in a controlled manner. Troubleshooting I did: Introduction: I run Malwarebytes Premimum scan daily and the system is clean. I updated all the drivers and the BIOS but nothing changed. I always keep Windows 10 up to date and the issue is present in every version. Initially I thought that this problem could be caused by the 3070 because the times it happened while gaming I've seen the GPU usage and power usage going to zero while the CPU power load was unchanged, I hope I was wrong, after all it still can be due to something else and the GPU usage drops because of the stutter and not the other way around. Usually the problem is harmless, everything behave well even after the stuttering. Complete formatting: I performed a clean Windows installation erasing everything but the issue remained. Stuttering makes games crash: The worst event happened three months ago when I was playing Overwatch and it stuttered very hard (like for two/three seconds), the system didn't come back to normal and the game crashed, HDMI monitor went dark while display ports output remained active. After this event the GPU clock was "misbehaving", it came down to 210 MHz with casual boosts to 350MHz, I went to Nvidia Control Panel to check the Power Management Mode and it was set to Maximum Performance as usual. I ran an AIDA64 extreme stress test and the GPU couldn't reach anything above 400MHz, GPU usage remained lower than 4%. I rebooted the system and everything was back to normal (1755MHz clock in idle, few minutes of stress test in AIDA64 ran perfectly). I think the GPU entered a self-protection state. Windows Event View screenshots of the events reported after Overwatch crash: https://imgur.com/a/PF7daUR Never experienced anything like this even if the stutter still persists in games (as already said without any noticeable increase in frequency as compared to other applications). Some minor troubleshoots: Tried to bypass the ups and powering the PC directly from the wall but the issue remained. Tried using MSI Dragoncenter to manage GPU performance, it didn't work. Removed the 500GB secondary NVMe drive, initially I installed it on the PC for extra storage but I removed it because it was causing problems when was my main drive on my laptop, but that's another story. Adding more RAM: Doubled my ram storage passing from 16 to 32 GB, performed a memtest86 checkup and the memory passed all the tests. Changing the motherboard: When I opened the case for upgrading the RAM I inspected my hardware: the motherboard turned out to be damaged. My cooler backplate was interfering with some components. The cooler (coolermaster hyper evo 212 black edition) is rated as compatible with the motherboard (Rog Strix X570-f) but it uses a custom backplate that is too big and touches some capacitor (or resistance idk) on the back of the motherboard. Photos of the damaged board: https://imgur.com/a/gAVMjrd . I replaced the motherboard with a newer one (same model) and installed a new cooler (arctic freezer 34) that is mounted directly on the original rog backplate. I reinstalled the same bios version I had before, reactivate windows, kept all my data. The issue still persist. Things I found on the LTT Forum: Tried following this guide on the forum: https://linustechtips.com/topic/1353904-amd-ftpm-causing-random-stuttering/ about fTPM causing the issue, I tried disabling it but nothing changed. The french guy in the second video posted in this topic is describing the same exact issue: https://linustechtips.com/topic/1177546-windows-10-micro-stutters-with-ryzen/ , I tried uninstalling those devices drivers as shown in the video and the problem still persists, I was very happy after finding this video because I had the same exact problem but the solution didn't work. The other video shows how to use a tool for switching the GPU mode to "msi" (I don't know what it is but mine appeared to be already in that mode, the check-box in the software was already marked, I don't know if I have to do something different with that program). I need your help to troubleshoot more. I have a friend that has a Ryzen 7 5800x and we can try to swap our CPUs or in alternative I can search for another Ryzen 5. But after watching the video about the drivers I really start to think that it's fixable in some way I can't figure out. Thanks for reading.

Hello to any1 reading this. I'm brand new to ltt forum, so i apologise if i'm doing something wrong. I have 2 sets of ddr ram: 2x8gb hyperx (HX436C17FB3AK2/16) & 2x8gb Memory D4 3200 16GB C16 GSkill RipV K2 2x8GB;1,35V,RipjawsV black,18 edit: just found this... ripjaws: F4-3200C16D-16GVKB yes, i know i should not be mixing ram but figured that if i dumb down hyperx to the speeds of ripjaws' set, it should fit well. do not ask why i have 2 different sets (seriously, a long story). is there any1 with a decent link on how to or possibly actually actively help me to match those things' timings? the basic 3200mhz 16-18-18-36 is insufficient... need help with the rest of the settings. mobo: msi x570-a pro cpu: ryzen 3900x edit(again): and yes, i DO need more ram. when building custom android OS, 16gb does not cut it. it crashes randomly. heck, even 24gb works (either on vm ubuntu or actual OS)... having 32gb@3200mhz would really come in handy and speed up the process.

As i already sad in the Title, the "Prefered Core Selection" in Windows 11 is pretty Bad. I have an 5600X with 4,8GHz on the BEST Core and 3,8GHz on all the others. Windows is grabing my WORST Core to do the Single Core work, this is quite bad, not only because it is the worst performing Core, but also because the Core is clocking 1GHz lower then the "Best Core". So im loosing 32%** in Cinebench (R23) Single Core and CPU-Z Single Core. **(If i have all cores but the best on 3,8GHz, with PBO i loose maybe 15-17%) Thats just what i could measure, because i selected the core i want it to use (best one) in the Task Manager and got 32% more Performance out of the Benchmark. I can't just Overclock the "worst" core and be Happy with it because it can only do about 4,6GHz Stable.. Thats not worth the Multi Core decrease when all the other Cores stop boosting! My question is can i manually set wich Core Windows 11 should use? This is what it right now looks like I Think you can see whats going wrong, its using the C01 (seen in HwInfo64 this is my WORST Core ) instead of the C02 (#2) or the C06 (#1). My System: CPU = Ryzen 5 5600X MB = MSI B550-A PRO RAM = G.Skill 32GB 3200MHz CL16-38 ^^ 2* Samsung 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill ^^ 2* SK Hynix 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill GPU = RX 6800 XT Midnight Black 16GB 2400MHz@990mV MPT 345W max. Power Draw PSU = BeQuiet System Power 9 700W (672W@12V Rail) Sorry for my bad english, Thanks for reading and maybe answering!

Good afternoon crew, I need help troubleshooting my newly built PC. The specs are: Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory GPU: ASRock Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Challenger D Video Card PSU: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor 1. Dual channel RAM creates DRAM LED issue. When only 1 (doesn't matter out of two since both work) is inserted into the 1 or 2 slot, the computer boots perfectly. When I insert the second in 3 or 4, the RGB lights up for the RAM but the DRAM issue stops the boot. I have checked the CPU for any broken off or bent pins and it is completely fine. Granted, I had to rebend some pins prior to insertion but they are all straight and I have triple checked for any abnormal pins to no avail. I did the latest BIOS update but haven't reset the CMOS battery to check if it is the motherboard. Any ideas on what I can do? 2. Every time I boot up a game like Valorant (i am assuming it uses high cpu and ram compared to other games I played with no sound), the computer makes this noise: (refer to clip for the buzzing robotic noise). I checked if it was the cpu cooler and it definitely was not. Please let me know what you guys think, thank you! video0.mov

Recently my computer has been randomly blue-screening and randomly not waking up from sleep. It seems that the A-XMP 1 Profile on my MSI B450 Tomahawk MAX motherboard is causing the ram to run unstable. The RAM I am using is F4-3600C19D-16GVRB. It's G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2x 8GB) kits and I have two of them installed in my system. First I thought it was a BIOS-related issue and so I tried to update the BIOS using MSI's tool and I was unsuccessful and the BIOS ended up corrupting itself. Then I had the board RMA'd and they swapped it for a different unit. The new motherboard runs fine with A-XMP OFF but NOT when it is enabled. The RAM then causes the computer to blue-screen again. I then contacted G.Skill support and they told me that the RAM I had is "Intel-only" and that the only solution to my problem is to spend $175 buying "AMD Ryzen certified memory". Is there legitimately a difference between "Intel certified" and "AMD certified" memory, or is it just a marketing sham so they can charge almost double the price for the same memory kit? Also if there is actually a difference in the memory kits why do they hide this in the description of the memory kits? Also, PCPartPicker lists my memory kit as compatible with my motherboard, but according to G.Skill, it's not. In the reviews of my memory kit on Newegg it seems many other people have had this same issue as me and G.Skill hasn't updated their listing to state that this is "Intel-only" memory. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should do?

Hello, I need some help, I bought some new ram, 1 stick of 8gb @3200, but my Bios sees it at only @2400, I have other ram at different frequency installed, I know that's not protocol, But I would like to know if there is something wrong. I have attached a picture of the Bios. Thanks!

Hi folks, my first time posting here so apologies for any poor formatting, etc.. Cutting a long story short, I've had my Ryzen 3900X build running solid for over 2 years, and recently (After installing and playing the Battlefield 2042 demo which did NOT play nice with my rig) my RAM began acting up more than it origninally did. Now when I try to turn the XMP Profile on I get stuck in a bootloop that does not end (Left running overnight to see if it might pull through, no luck.) I can provide more in-depth specs of my RAM if needed, but my mobo is an MSI x570 MEG ACE and has been rock solid since I built the machine. My RAM of choice is the Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (32GB - 4x8GB) and it was a pain in the neck to get stable when I first built the machine, but now it's appeared to have deteriorated. Did I lose the silicon lottery or am I doing something wrong? I've been debating ordering some Samsung B-Die modules and tweaking them to optimal levels but if the cost can be avoided then I'd honestly rather that. Thanks for any input you guys have, its appreciated.

Hi, I just got Kingston Fury Beast 3733mhz (Hynix D-Die or DJR) on my 5600x, Gigabyte Aorus Elite x570. I cant get it stable at 3733mhz and 1866FCLK. I tried the below Vcore SOC: up to 1.15v (now running 1.125) as I read too much voltage can affect stability. DRAM Voltage: 1.4vv (Default 1.35) VDDG: 1000mv VDDP: 950 SOC LLC: High Update: set the FCLK to 1600 and it failed the test. so its not only FCLK that its not stable, its the RAM iteself Can you advise what needs to changed, adjusted to make it stable. thanks.

Hello everyone from Portugal! It's my first post here. Anyways lately I have been searching for a not too expensive "gaming" and productivity PC and this one caught my eye. It's a prebuilt PC, an HP Pavilion Gaming Desktop TG01-1034np for 650€ (751$). I will use it to play some Minecraft, Cities: Skylines, (and I would like to have a smooth experience while playing them), Word, browsing on the internet... It will not be used demanding games or software Here are the PC specs: Processor: AMD Ryzen™ 5 4600G Hexa-Core, 3.70 GHz, 11 MB Cach Chipset: AMD B550A RAM: 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200MHz ROM: SSD 512 GB PCIe® NVMe™ M.2 (I also have another 250GB SSD laying arround) Graphics: AMD Radeon™ Graphics + NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1650 SUPER™ 4GB GDDR6 Audio: Som surround 5.1 I/O Ports: 1 x SuperSpeed USB Type-C® (5 Gbps) 2 x SuperSpeed USB Type-A (10 Gbps) 2 x SuperSpeed USB Type-A (5 Gbps) Some audio inputs and outputs 4 x USB 2.0 Type-A; 1 x RJ-45 1 x HDMI 2.0 1 x DVI Communications: Realtek 802.11a/b/g/n/ac (2x2) Wi-Fi® e Bluetooth® 5 LAN GbE 10/100/1000 Power Supply: Silver (310 W) What's your opinion? Is it too expensive? Or there is anything better? Or I should just try to build my pc? Any response is appreciated :p

Hi, So running my 5600x curve optimizer all cores to negative 22, I saw some videos running negative per core with much lower numbers (5, 10, 15, 5, 10, 5), not sure what I'm doing is right or wrong? should the preferred core have the lowest negative or the highest? GB Aorus Elite X570. side question: Overdrive scalar mean to maintain boost clock for longer period of time? thanks,

To start, here are pertinent PC specs: CPU - AMD Ryzen 9 5950x (running at stock speeds) Motherboard - ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero CPU block - EKWB EK-Momentum ROG Crosshair VIII Hero Monoblock, Digital RGB, Plexi Cooling - Two triple-fan (Lian Li UNI SL120) 360mm rads, one in the top (exhaust) and one in the bottom (intake), plus one additional 120mm exhaust fan in the rear of the case Coolant - About 1.5L of Cloud White EKWB EK-CryoFuel Solid Premix Coolant Pictures and a full list of parts can be found here: PC Part Picker Completed Build - Da Machine I tried my hand at water cooling for the first time last month, and since then I've been enjoying the aesthetic and sonic advantages a full custom loop provides. About a week ago, though, I started seeing some bizarre behavior with my CPU temperatures. At idle, CPU temps will jump from the mid-40s to the low-70s then back down again, with no obvious spikes in utilization in Resource Monitor; it then stabilizes in the mid-60s, which seems awfully high even for a 5950x. My GPU, meanwhile, consistently reports high-20s at idle, and mid-40s under load (which I take to mean that my coolant isn't particularly hot). I'd initially thought the issue was my TIM, so I decided to run a stress test with Prime95 and pin the CPU to 100%, which is where my entire theory kinda fell apart. Before I did any testing, I made sure all my fans were pinned at 100% duty cycle to prevent RPM changes from skewing results. While I was expecting my temp to shoot from 64c to 95c almost immediately, throttling the CPU or shutting down the machine, the temperature instead dropped about 6 degrees from 64c to 58c. After running the stress test for 15 minutes, CPU temps never went higher than 59c, but once I stopped the test the temps shot back up to 64c within 10 seconds. If it were an issue with my TIM I'd imagine the temperatures would hit tjmax when running a stress test, but instead the temps stayed shockingly stable well below tjmax. I've attached a video recording of this behavior (I would have liked to record a screen capture, but my entire pc went brrrr when I tried); it shows the end of a 15-minute stress test running on all 32 threads. I'm using HWInfo to monitor temps (verifying with Core Temp to confirm that the temps are reporting equally to various monitoring software), and I'm monitoring utilization with Windows Resource Monitor which shows ~130% utilization. Could this be an issue with my BIOS firmware? A faulty pin on the CPU? Something I haven't considered? Am I just being silly? This isn't affecting the usability of the system, and I haven't run into any thermal throttling issues, I just thought the behavior was strange and wanted to see if there was something I had goofed somewhere in the build process. I haven't checked my TIM yet, mostly because it would be a time-consuming and potentially expensive process (drain the loop, remove the tubing, remove the block, reapply the paste, replace the block, replace the tubing, refill the loop, bleed, leak test, etc etc). I'm willing to do that as a last resort, but I want to see if there are other things I can check first. Any advice would be much appreciated, and I'm happy to provide additional information if requested. Thanks much! P.S - The video shows data from HWInfo and Resource Monitor being passed through the Rainmeter interface FullSizeRender.MOV

Hi, So, trying to OC my RAM from 3600mhz to a higher Frequency but when i change VDDG and VDDP to lets say 950mv it wont reflect on zen timing not ryzen master. This might be the cause on the instability am having. Vcore soc is set to 1.10c My board is GB Aorus Elite X570 Thanks

Hey all, My computer crashes when I play any games at all. I've checked memory, reinstalled it, mem health, etc--that's not the problem. Putting the PC under CPU load doesn't do anything. However, if the GPU gets a heavy load like any gaming my PC just goes black and starts restarting. SPECS: MOB: ASRock B450M/ac CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 GPU: PNY RTX 2060 Super Dual Fan 8gb RAM: Oloy 8gb x2 3000 PSU: Thermaltake Smart series 500Watt SSD: Barracuda 500GB Everything above is about a year or so old from when I got it at least. My CPU (idle) is around 50-55deg. Under load it's 80-85deg. My GPU (idle) is around 45deg. Under load it's 75deg. Also, I caught this (imgbb link) from HWINFO on my phone just before one of the crashes, I was opening up PC Building Simulator on my other monitor. Side Note: My GPU when attached to the backplate looks like this (imgbb link). I don't think this should really affect anything, but I might be wrong, should I fix that?

I bought RedmiBook 13 Ryzen 4700u and i ve been very happy with it until windows update changed my driver and without OEM driver my laptop accts so weird when you want it to go to sleep it just restarts and it's because drivers. When i uninstall drivers everything works normal but looks weird. I would love if someone with the same laptop could send me OEM drivers. I would be very thankful. Thanks

Budget (including currency): ~2800 Country: Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: After Effects, Dota2, Warzone, Battlefield 2042, potentially Unreal Engine Other details https://pcpartpicker.com/list/c3gtwz Hey everyone Here's my list for what I am planning to get: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/c3gtwz Does anyone have recommendations or thoughts on this? I don't trust myself enough with the cables for that GPU so I will go to a local shop to get it built. I am using this for working in After Effects and rendering as I am tired of waiting for my videos to render or have slow previews. I also love playing games and my old r9 390 isn't doing it anymore, neither is my i5 6600k. The 3080ti might be an overkill here as I initially thought of going for a 3060ti but through lucky circumstances, it's possible for me to get the expensive one. I heard the 3080ti tends to get quite hot so I wanted a good airflow and a case that looks ok with only slight RGB influences, especially since I use HUE and the Asus mainboard can also access them. I was contemplating an AOI (for the look obviously) but as my old build had the Dark Rock already and was almost silent, I think I'll be going for it again. Noise is obviously important as I listen to a lot of music and sounds for work and not always want to wear headsets. Especially afraid of the dimensions of the GPU as I am unsure if it will fit in the case. The PC will have additional SSDs obviously but I will use them from my old one. Please let me know what you think! Cheers

Hello everyone, I am troubleshooting a problem for my friend. He's recently been experiencing stutters (FPS Drops) when he's playing Fortnite or any other game. His specs are more than enough for what he's playing so hardware doesn't seem to be the issue. I ran anti-virus and found 3 malwares which were then quarantined by the anti-virus. All the junk files (temporary files/software cache) was removed using Ccleaner. All the drivers are up-to-date. All the unnecessary start-up programs are disabled. I am not sure anymore what's causing this issue. Here are his specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900 RAM: 32 GB HyperX DDR4-3200 XMP RGB SDRAM (2 x 16GB) Storage: 1 TB WD Black PCIe NVMe TLC M.2 -SSD GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Monitor: Samsung Odyssey G7 32” 240Hz Any help is appreciated Thank You!

Hi, I have cheap pump from EK 160 SPC with 250L\M and max pressure 2.2m. Local store have EK Xres 140 D5 pump for cheap price with 1500L\H and max pressure 3.9m. Will I notice a difference in CPU temp? I have 5800X. is it worth it? I see big difference in max flow and pressure, but will that transform to noticeable temp drop? which is more important, Pump or water block?

Hi, I got 2 sets (4 sticks) of RAM, Kingston Fury Beast, I spent few hours tightening the timings, is it worth spending more hours tweaking more? or are the results I got decent and \ or the Max I can get from Hynix D-Die (DJR). Aida64 benchmark was done in Safe Mode. in normal I usually get 63ns. thanks.

Hi guys! I'm wondering what you guys recommend for my setup when it comes to PSU. My specs: CPU : Ryzen 5 5600X GPU : RTX 3060 Eagle 12GB Motherboard : Aorus B450 Elite Ram : 8Gb x2 Team Group DDR4 3200Mhz Stockage : Team Group SSD 1TB PSU : Cooler Master MWE 750 BRONZE - V2

Hi, I finally found set of kits that are compatible with my GB Elite X570 in my country which is the HyperX Fury 3733mhz CL 19-23-23 I know they are loose timing but they are very cheap, like 50USD cheap per kit than others brands in my country. After some research I read that it runs Nanya A-Die, which I never heard of in my life, now I'm having second thouts of getting them? anyone tried them, I cant find any useful info online?! thanks,

If you’re in the market for an MSRP, cheaper Ryzen processor. On Walmart’s website, (US) it shows a Ryzen 3 3100 for $117.00 USD, with stock cooler included. https://www.walmart.com/ip/AMD-Ryzen-3-3100-Processor-W-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler-100-100000284BOX/480277736?=&irgwc=1&sourceid=imp_zwVQ1R2ZlxyIWMcx96wtGxgLUkBXYd1%3APV2Jzg0&veh=aff&wmlspartner=imp_79301&clickid=zwVQ1R2ZlxyIWMcx96wtGxgLUkBXYd1%3APV2Jzg0&sharedid=&affiliates_ad_id=568844&campaign_id=9383

I recently purchased a pre-built pc from Cyberpower PC, from day 1, been having issues...the monitor kept losing signal then at one point, it would also randomly freeze, the keyboard and mouse would hang indefinitely and then it would reboot. After troubleshooting and research, i tried removing 1 of the ram sticks, thinking the other might be bad...it worked flawlessly for 3 days so i tried using the other stick of ram, and to my surprise, it, too worked flawlessly. I then tried switching the ram slots, thinking 1 was bad but its also working. Its an Asus Tuf Gaming motherboard( the X570-Plus (Wi-fi) and its the SPECTRIX D60G ram which im actually not seeing on the motherboard's list of approved ram. Could this be why only 1 stick works but with 2, i get all those issues? Its not the CPU or GPU, i ran benchmarks on those and they run flawlessly with no overheating etc ( the cpu is a ryzen 9 5900x and the gpu is the tuf gaming rtx 3090)

So I got my new build a couple of weeks back specs are as follow Ryzen 9 390 16GB x2 3600mhz Ram 10TB WD Ultrastar 1TB Kingstone NVM cooler master 750w PSU Inno3D 3080 x4 iChill MSI X570 tomahawk wifi I started facing this issue where my GPU would crash( screen goes totally black) then I have to force reboot my system from the power button and as soon as I reboot my system won't even get to bios and it gives me no output from the GPU for a day and suddenly it starts working again if I check after 24-30 hours but then again as soon as I put some stress on my system, everything starts happening again I've tried changing the ram but the problem still remains the same tried using 2 8-pin wires to power the GPU(as recommended by the support team of inno3D), nothing change what could be the problem? is it the GPU itself or could it be the power supply or could it be the motherboard?? is there a way to confirm what's causing the issue I would really appreciate some help here

So, I have a system with the below specs (self built): Ryzen 5 3600x Asus Prime B450M Gaming/BR 4x TeamGroup T-Force 3000Mhz CL16 8Gb RAM Gigabyte GeForce RTX2060 OC EVGA 600W 80 Plus Bronze Power Supply 1x Kingspec 256Gb NVME SSD as system drive 1x Toshiba 2Tb HDD as data/game drive 2x WD 1Tb HDDs (Raid 0) as data/game drive 1x Kigston 240Gb SATA SSD as cache I first put it together with 2x RAM sticks. Everything worked pretty well, the RAM was set by DOCP profile to 3000Mhz 1.35v. Some time later I decided to add 2 more RAM sticks, and that didn't go as smooth as I expected. First, I had to disable DOCP and let the RAM at 2400Mhz, or the system won't post at all. But I thought "ok, it's my fault for using all 4 slots and not only the 2 good ones", and it stayed this way for some time. After that, the computer started to just not boot sometimes, and I would have to reset the bios, boot with only 1 or 2 RAM sticks, and then add the other ones after a successful cycle. But it really started to fall apart. Now I just have 2 sticks laying in the drawer. It really won't post anymore with the 4 slots used. Sometimes, it works with 3. Sometimes, only with 2. Right now I'm writing this using just one because it refused to post with anything more. I already tested a million times each of the slots separately, and each of the sticks. Everything as it should be. Even tested the sticks in another system, all fine. The other parts of the system seem pretty fine too. What can I do besides throwing this motherboard (at this point is what I'm blaming) at the trash? Some more info: BIOS is the latest version available at ASUS website I already reseted the BIOS a lot of times Other peripherals don't seem to interfere with the result All cables are perfectly connected System (when it is feeling like booting) is Windows 11 Beta