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Hello everyone, currently, I am accumulating all the parts for my first gaming rig. Caused by space constraints, I decided to go mATX for the Motherboard and the case. To counter the expected reduced airflow, I got a MSI Coreliquid 240r AIO, which has it's pump in the radiator. Now to the question: Can I mount it to the top of a case? (I have the choice between two, one with support for radiators at the top, one only supporting fans at the top, the definite choice will be made when my problem is solved) I watched the concerning Video from GamersNexus, but he was only talking about pumps in the CPU block. And applying his explanations to my AIO, the only 2 ways to mount it, would be at the bottom or front with tubes down, so neither the pumps, nor the tubes are on top of the loop. Does anyone have experience with this kind of AIO? Thanks for your help. Sincerely, Breeee
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Recently Gamers Nexus uploaded video about installing AIO in proper way. However it was only about AIOs with pump built in CPU block. Now, what is proper way to install AIO with pump built in radiator. I do have one like this and i want to mount it on top of my chassis, but I am not sure if it is optimal mounting for good longevity. How would you approach it? Do you have any resources from i could gain additional information? -
Hello there, I'm having a rather curious problem, that I hope someone could help me with. I'm using an Alphacool 11285 Eisbaer 240 AIO CPU cooler on a ROG Strix X470-I mainboard. The system has worked great for well over two years. Last week I noticed that the pump of the AIO did not turn on during booting and the CPU (AMD Ryzen 7 3700x) heated up to slightly above 100°C. The fans connected to the AIO radiators worked well though. After a reboot, same thing. Another reboot, it worked again. Same situation on the next day. I checked the BIOS and noticed that the pump is showing up as n/a. Did some trouble shooting: - disconnected the AIO and checked the sole 3-pin connector on the MoBo for anything unsual. Nothing. - checked the liquid inside the pump. Seems to be full enough. According to some Alphacool resource the fill level should be between 90% - 100%. Seems ok. - when the pump is running, it runs smoothly and rather quitely. No rattling whatsoever During some trial runs, I turnd the case on its side. Whenever that happend the pump turned on easily without any hassle. I'm a bit at a loss here. Could this have something to do with some undervoltage from the MoBo or something similar? Thank you in advance. Cheer GG
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Hi everyone! I have just upgraded from an air cooler to my first ever aio! Temps look amazing but I occasionally hear bubbles through the pump. I figured that by lowering the pump voltage (it connects via 3 pin), the noise goes away. I'm worried however because when searching for it, I have seen many people suggest you should run an aio pump at 100%. Can this hurt the pump lifespan?I have only dropped the voltage from 12V to 10V and as I've mentioned CPU temps are fine. My aio is the TH360 and due to ram clearance I've mounted it in the front. Thanks again for your help!
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Progress! My thermal paste arrived this morning so I can re-mount the H60. I have done two things differently this time around, one was to fit the cable ties like this... and the other was to add more paste. Moreover, I checked the coverage of the paste and if covers the die which is great. I did this by pressing the cooler by hand before tightening the cable ties. Now, I didn't press down super hard, in fact there were still some blogs of paste that needed to be pushed down a little more. I'm currently running the pump and fan on molex adapters to get an idea for noise. Very loud I have to say, some Noctuas wouldn't go a miss but they are a little over budget. Mind you, it is my birthday soon... perhaps I will add them to the list along with a fan controller. Anyway, everything seems to be running okay, I plan to re-attach the PCIe bracket and make sure that idle temps are insane. I will post another entry once I get some results. No stress testing today, I haven't got anything on the VRMs or the VRAM. Haven't cut the last of the ties down yet, just in case I need to ratchet them down more but I don't expect to. I can pick the card up by the H60 and it doesn't come away. Probably not good for it but nether the less, a good test to check the levelness of the mount. It was really hard to tighten the ties at the same rate. I had a huge issue with this in my previous attempts. However, the new cable tie arrangement has worked out brilliant. Here are some images of the card so far. I ill update this blog with regular info on my cards. Whats Next?: Monday next week is the due date for my VRM and VRAM sinks to arrive, once they are here I will get a couple of entrys out on this blog for the fitting and then testing. I will also add a summative entry on the main blog and on the Drawer build blog. Other than that, I may have so stuff on another build up for tonight or tomorrow depending on work scheduling. Anyway, this went pretty well, it was tense but I'm glad I didn't chicken out. Stay tuned fore more cool modding and overclocking. Thank You :)
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Hi Everyone .. So I have been working on this build for 2 years now and now that I have everything needed I have ran into a few issues and need help .. So I figured out why I was leaking from the bottom of Res A .. It was because having two pumps running full speed I was getting back pressure and causing it to leak from the bottom .. By slowing the pumps down to 20% (1500 rpm) that fixed the issue .. But now I have another issue .. what is slowly happening over time is Res B is draining into Res A and causing the fluid to raise to the top and leak out the top .. I have tried turning Res A pump up to move the fluid out faster , but didn't solve the issue .. Any thoughts / advice .. Really dont want to do dual loops as I am not sure how I would run the lines .. but might have too I dont know .. Thanks ..
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Heya! I have a Gigabyte 990xa-ud3 (rev. 1.x) mobo, and recently I've just bought a CL ML 240 Lite for my FX-8350. I have some questions about the fan connectors. Since my mobo only has 2x sys_fan, 1x pwr_fan and 1x cpu_fan connections. The pump goes to the cpu_fan and the two radiator fans go to pwr_ or sys_ ? Sorry if this has been answered before, I've been searching the net for the past hour, and couldn't find a definitive answer... thanks!
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Hey. So, I built my first system a couple of days ago and everything works fine so far, I just noticed something today though. With the way the AIO pump is placed right now, the tubing is blocking one of the RAM slots. For now it doesn't interfere with anything, but if I want to install 2 more RAM sticks (which I intend to do in the future) I can't. So my question to you; is it in any way harmful to the AIO or the system, if I reseat the pump so the tubing sticks out to the left side (or maybe bottom), rather than the right as it is now? The pump would basically stand on its head then. I tried to find information about this, but I wasn't too lucky with that, or just to blind to find it. So maybe somebody here will have an answer to that. Furthermore, if I were to spin the pump around after confirmation (which I would do in the next days, need to redo my cable management anyway) would you recommend reapplying thermal paste? I build this PC literally four days ago mind you, so I wouldn't. But maybe someone here has an argument for it and I would be glad to hear. Lastly, if it is possible to turn the pump around, I should also turn the radiator around right? So the tubing has a better run path and isn't to strained (see picture below for current setup) Thanks for all the help in advance! Have a nice day.^^
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So, I returned home a couple of days ago after the christmas vacation and after turning on the pc the first time everything was ok. Yesterday something weird happened when I opened. The case fans were 100% from when I presses the pb. I went into Bios and confirmed it was the cpu getting hot (110C) within seconds even though all the fans were working. I uplugged everything and left just the pump plugged (I have a be quiet pure loop 360) and the pump made no noise. I then proceeded to re-plug it and still nothing. Then I plugged it into the nearest pins which were the cpu optional ones. Still nothing. Couple hours go by and I wanted to be sure, so I replugged it where it was to begin with. Funny enough it started working... 30 minutes go by and the gpu fans start going crazy by just having open discord. I check hwinfo and it only showed the 2 fans instead of the 3 the gpu has (I have Aorus 3070 Ti Master) and it said 0rpm on both fans... I restart it, the gpu got silent, I go into the app and it said the right rpm. I then thought that it was a one-time-thing and forget about it. 20 minutes later I open up a game and 5 seconds after clicking it the gpu fans go 1500rpm. I then close the game and they still are at 1500rpm. I really don't know what to do. Can anyone identify what's the problem and if it it has something to do with the first problem, the pump?
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I have a sump pump running under my house that keeps water from coming up from under the floor in the basement. I need a UPS that can run the pump for at least 4 hours because whenever there’s a blackout the water level threatens to rise and flood in. (Which just happened yesterday). I don’t know much about the technical aspect to pick a UPS so I’d like some help. Here’s a link to the pump we’re using: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-2-HP-Stainless-Steel-Dual-Suction-Sump-Pump-500RSDS/308759150 Thank You
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Hello. I recently made a post here about some noise from the pump of my new Arctic AIO. I contacted Arctic support, but I have not heard back from them (probably due to christmas and new years, which I understand). Since I dont know if it is air in the pump or just the pump in general that is making the noise, I have stopped using the pc just in case it will further damage it. When I turn on the pc and boot to BIOS, it stays at 30 degrees (celsius). So my question is: how bad is it if I use the pc, even tho the pump is making some noise? Do I risk doing more harm to the pump, or should it be fine until I get in contact with Arctic. Here is a link to a video of the noise. Its not as loud as some of the other "AIO noise" videos on youtube, but I can definitely hear it in comparison to the chassis fans/radiator fans
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Hello, I have a vaillant vcw 346 5-5 ecotec plus E-BE R6 , it is hooked up to Tado smart thermostat by cable, there's is 9 radiators but 8 of them is hooked up smart valves and 1 normal trv valve, there can be only 1 radiator running and others closed,sometimes all closed, when heating demand is off when all valves closed, the pump runs a little time until shutdown, is it bad to close all radiator valves or only open 1 radiator valve for the pump?
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Ive had this this full loop installed for 2 days now. And no noise. But now when i got home i noticed the sound. I didnt think too much of it and then i happened again, and again. Until i started to worry. the sounds are about 20 secounds apart and is less frequent on higher rpms. FullSizeRender.MOV -
I'm starting to wish a little that I can go back in time and choose a different pump/res combo and radiators. The Darkside Cross-Flow radiators are proving to be a little cumbersome to work with because they are dictating what the loop order and fan intake/exhaust flow has to be. But my main issue right now is how to mount my EK Quantum Kinetic TBE pump/res combo. I bought it because it is what EK's config tool recommended I use, and I didn't notice at the time that it was a side mount pump and not bottom/floor mount like I assumed and I don't have the luxury of fast delivery to me location. To my eye's the only mounting options are either through the plastic floor/psu shroud cover, or to tuck it behind my vertically mounted gpu. Are these truly my only options or am I missing something?
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I just bought a new Kraken Z73 from microcenter, but it doesn’t seem to be doing its job. I went to install windows on my new build today, and when I came back to my computer it was in the BIOS because it safety shut off from the CPU getting to hot. It was idling at 55 C in the BIOS. Neither of the tubes for the AIO felt cold, and when I touched the pump, it wasn’t vibrating. I restarted the pc, and noticed when I first start the pc, the pump vibrates for a second, and then goes still. I have gone over the internet and I cannot find out what is wrong with the pump, and I’m worried I will have to get a new one. I’m using an ASUS X670E-E motherboard, with a 7900X. Things I have tried: •Reseated the SATA power connector •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_FAN header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_OPT header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CHA_FAN header •Set the Q-Fan control DC and PWM to Full •Reseated the pump to the CPU with fresh thermal paste
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So I've been overclocking my built PC that I've had for a while, like 4 years or something. This AIO cooler is consistently running at 1,300 give or take. The rated pump should run at 2500 RPM, aren't these suppose to run at 100% all the time for water pressure? Is there something wrong with the AIO or am I missing something here? I've roughly tried to adjust it through speedfan, no result of being able to lower or increase the RPM, same goes for the BIOS (as far as I know, thats why I'm here) -
Hi. I hope i posted into the right place. Recently i did a build for someone that even if i told him i`m not yet into rgb and lights setups he wanted to do something. I failed of course on syncing the pump with the lights from the fan and that is the reason i am here. First here are the components MB: B450 Gaming X Case:AQIRYS Arcturus ARGB AIO CPU Water Cooling: CPU ID-Cooling Zoomflow 240 RGB MB Might have the right headers for them but i did not manage to find out which or i failed from the start and actually does not have any support for that Case: Has her own fans 3xfront 1xback and a RGB controller on the back of the case - that came with the case + remote AIO:Has also RGB and a lot of rats nests cables and a non existing manual .. just a piece of paper with two ways of setup What i want from this is to sync the AIO with the included RGB case fans with the help of the MB nothing more. They work separately but not together. The fans can be controlled from software of the MB and REMOTE AIO just from the remote What i suspect is that the MB might be the culprit but you guys might share some light into this. Heads up : I don`t have direct access anymore at the PC but i can ask for some pictures but i don`t think they will help a lot because of multiple cables from AIO + CASE FANS Thanks in advance if someone can help!
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hello i would like to make custom loop using CPU block with pump build in like Linus did However as i'm using Corsair iCUE 220T Case i'd like to put in something little more fancier I'm interested in blocks with display Can any of these two be salvaged for their blocks and used for custom loop? GIGABYTE Aorus Liquid Cooler ASUS ROG RYUJIN
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Hi I recently bought an Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240mm AIO and have been really impressed with the performance. But then this morning i booted up my system and got over 100 degrees in hwmonitor when the system turned off automatically. I then proceeded to reseat the AIO and booted into bios. The temperatures then started climbing from 35c to 70c i then turned off the system in fear of destroying something. I installed the AIO 10 days ago and used my system the evening before the problem began with no issues what so ever. English isn't my first language so sorry for any spelling errors. Specs: Ryzen 5 2600 (stock speed) Aegis DDR4 3000Mhz 16GB GTX 970 4GB Corsair VS650 PSU SanDisk 120GB m.2 sata Gigabyte B450m s2h
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Hi guys. I decided to make a water cooled system in a 900d case. I'd like to cool two EVGA GTX 1080 SC and one i7 6800k. For the top I planned to have one EKWB EK-Coolstream SE 360 with 3 Corsair SP 120 PWM and for the bottom one EKWB EK-Coolstream PE 480 with 4 Corsair SP 120 PWM. Now for the pump I thought about an EKWB EK-XTop Revo D5 PWM, but does this pump have enough power for such a build? Or do I need to have two of them? And for the reservoir an EKWB EK-RES X3 250. An other thing I am not sure about is the tubing. I want to do hard tubing but I am not sure if acrylic is the best choice. Or do you guys recommend PETG? Since this is my first build I would be happy if you could help me out with some tips for beginners:) Sincerly and thanks for your help MasterR8
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I have got all my pieces gathered and most of my parts installed, but have gotten stuck. I am trying to figure out where to put my pump and reservoir, the spot i was originally planing on is too small at two different points by about 1/8th of an inch. I would love to hear everyones thoughts and ideas. I was planning on a vertical mount behind the fans in front of the PS shroud and GPUs, but the pump part in itself is too big to let the reservore sit flush against the fans and the gap for the res between the GPUs and the fans is literally exactly the same size as the outer diameter of the reservoir. The only place I can really think to put it now, other than outside mounting, is horizontally on top of the ram... Thanks ahead of time for any suggestions and ideas.
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I'm trying to find an alternative to EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM , i'm not too sure if I could just get something like Swiftech MCP655TM 12 VDC Laing D5 Vario Pump and combine it with Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 V2 Reservoir. If i could use the swiftech pump and bitspower res, could I just connect them with a male to male fitting? noob question: if i use distilled water, mayhem x1 dye, and petg tubing, do i need to use a kill coil? -
Hey guys so i'm making a budget water cooling loop (dw im not using expensive parts with it im only messing around with my secondary pc) and the pump doesnt have connector ends on it. so im just going to wire it up with a molex connector which ive read has 5v on the red wire and 12v on the yellow wire. now the pump is a 12v pump so im going on the assumption that i would wire it up to the yellow wire and the black on any one of the black wires.
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Title says it all, is there maybe a modern equivalent to the apogee drive 2, or at least other options? (i.e. a pump block combo)
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When I boot up my PC it takes 17 minutes until the pump on my Corsair H100i starts going. Until then My CPU floats between 70-100 degrees C. The NZXT CAM software alerts me that the connection to the CPU fan has been disconnected and is "no longer spinning" until it magically starts working at 17 mins like clock work and then no issues until the next boot. Also the Corsair Link software is missing the pump rpm stat until it turns on at 17 mins and then it shows up. Any ideas? i7 4790k Gigabyte GA-H97N-WIFI 8GB of PNY 1600Mhz Nvidia GTX 980 Corsair 250D x2 128Gb Sandisk SSD's in RAID 0, External WD 2TB Thermaltake 750 Corsair H100i Razer Black Widow Razer Mamba Logitech 5.1 Windows 10
