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Over a year ago I built a PC with the following specs: Motherboard: MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 PSU: Corsair RM 750x CPU: Intel i9 12900k GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 RAM: 48GB DDR4 It worked perfectly until a month ago when it abruptly powered off while idle and would not turn back on. There were no lights or signs of activity from the motherboard. I took it to a repair shop and they found the PSU had "blocked" itself as a protective measure due to an electrical issue. I also noticed melted plastic on my power cable, so I replaced both the power cable and extension cord. Everything seemed fine for about a month until yesterday. When attempting to turn on the PC, it failed to power on again. I checked motherboard to see if there is any lights turned on and saw that the Ethernet port showed power. After unplugging and waiting a few hours, it magically turned on. Today, I faced the same issue, but after repeatedly pressing the power button, it eventually started. Is my PSU faulty? Does anyone have ideas on how to further troubleshoot or confirm if the PSU is defective? Or what else could potentially be the culprit here?

Running a Z170 Pro Gaming/Aura Motherboard ddr4 32Gb G.Skill RipJaws, 16GB G.Skill trident z Ram intel 6700k Cpu gtx 1080 Gpu corsair h110i Cooler Evga 750GQ PSU Context: It was working yesterday, I have done small upgrades in the past: adding more RAM, and storage; this time I wanted to clean it better because I plan on replacing some parts soon, so I didn't replace or add any new components. This was a prebuild I got back in 2016-17 (I think), and I'm not the best when it comes to technical things, I guess I thought I could do these upgrades myself :c Because I didn't add a new part, and just removed cables to remove the dust from the cooler, fans psu etc.. It might be a connection, but It worries me that I can't even get into the bios. On the attachments there are images of the build and a video of the bios lights, I'm not sure if it's something broken because it doesn't stay on persistently after the initial "boot" that doesn't really boot just shows the lights and nothing happens on the GPU connection, and the motherboard https://streamable.com/8pydgi https://streamable.com/w2t060

I'm currently running a ASUS Prime B650 Plus Motherboard 32GB Crucial Pro 5600 Ram AMD Ryzen 7 7900 Processor Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 Cooler Corsair Rm850X Shift PSU Id think the other things are unnecessary to be included but they can be if requested, I received all the parts last week and started building my PC yesterday with my dad. Currently, we've built our tower and now we are trying to power it. The problem however is that this is currently unsolvable. At first, we thought that the case, Meshify C by Fractal Design, had buggy front panels so we've tried to replug them correctly in multiple times but to no avail. We've checked our Motherboard power supply, and well the motherboard is getting standby power I assume by the fact that there is the 2.5Gbps Ethernet Light flickering on. My dad also tried a cable to one of the USB3 ports in front of the case and well his cable turned green, indicating that power is going to the case itself. My friend suggested shorting the power switch cables and well, I tried that in the end but just nothing. I've searched and scoured the official ASUS and Fractal Design support pages, Reddit and other Tech Forums to nothing about my problem. Considering that I couldn't get it to short, I'm thinking that the motherboard is just faulty and that would just be simply screwed for me but I just have no idea what could be the problem. I'll attach images soon but please, does anybody have any suggestions before I consider the Motherboard faulty?

I live in Sweden close to an IKEA and need to buy a bunch of USB-C to USB-C cables that will only be used for charging. However, they need to be able to deliver around 35 W (Watts) to iPad and MacBook Air devices. I found SITTBRUNN USB-C till USB-C and LILLHULT USB-C till USB-C on IKEAs website. How much W do these deliver?

tl;dr I need help finding a way to take the 12V power from a 4-pin Molex plug and convert it to 5V or 12V and 5V. I know Molex plugs have both 5V and 12V, but I don't wanna use the PSU's 5V rail. --- I have a Storinator XL60 chassis which has this pair of redundant PSUs: https://www.zippy.com/pwproductshowdetail.aspx?pp_rfnbr=1867&pp_code=MTW2-5AD0B2V Each PSU has 50A available on the +5V rail (250W) and 100A on the +12V rail (1200W). The PSUs share the load when both are plugged in, but their redundant nature means I'm supposed to be able to take one out and be fine. Still, I'm theoretically able to get up to 500W of 5V power. Right now, I have 100 SSDs in there, and I'm missing two adapters to make it 132 SSDs. My 4TB Crucial MX500 SSDs say 5V 1.7A (8.5W) on the sticker. But they only seem to be using between 2.2W (440mA) and 4W (800mA) based on some rough calculations after plugging in 32 more drives. I'm not sure how much power they use under load, but with 132 drives, at 4W each, I'll be using over 100A of +5V which is more than the max these PSUs allow. But... The PSUs have plenty of power available on the +12V rail. And I figure, if I could step down the +12V rail using molex plugs to +5V, I could safely use my existing case and PSUs with all 132 drives. Is there a solution that lets me bypass the PSU's +5V rail, so I can use the +12V rail to step-down with high amperage? Another option is buying the PSUs for this case by Supermicro: https://www.supermicro.com/en/products/chassis/4U/417/SC417BE1C-R1K23JBOD I think the PSUs are only 12V, and the power distributor is 100A on the +5V rail.

Hello community. Good day I am contacting you because I need help, I bought this source EUROTECH FONTE ALIMENTACAO BRONZE FATX750 and it does not work on my HP PC with micro Xeon, when I connect it the red light on the button turns on and it makes 4 beeps. I already removed the static from the board and changed the battery, it still didn't work. What else could it be?

(Reposting this from reddit, as I did not get much help there) Specs out of the way: - i7 12700F - B660M Aorus Pro AX (DDR4) - 16gb 3200mhz DDR4 RAM (8gb x 2) - Gigabyte RTX 3070 Good day! The specs listed above is my new PC that I had just built last year February. This year starting February I've been having issues with it. Particularly, it won't turn on. The issue started when one day, It wouldn't turn on automatically with just one press of the power button. The fans would spin for just a split second but my PC won't continue powering on. I found out that if I hold down the power button for around 3 seconds, it was effective in making it boot up. Call it brute force if you will. I didn't really mind this issue because I was too busy with work in general and thought it might have been just caused by my UPS's battery dying which I can easily replace later. nonetheless, it was an effective way for making my PC turn on for a while (around 1-2 weeks). Until one day, it just wont power on anymore. At that point I realized that it was definitely a problem with my PC, as it still won't turn on when plugged directly to the wall. The first thing I (or anyone this case) would suspect to be the problem would be the PSU. I was using a Gigabyte P750GM (yes, the one that's known to explode, but it never exploded and never smelled like burnt electronics). So I ordered a Seasonic Focus Plus Gold GX850 as a replacement. So I installed the Seasonic PSU and to my surprise, my system still won't turn on as I spam the power button. I thought I might have been just unlucky and got a unit which was dead on arrival. I was lucky I was able to send it back. Alas I settled for a Corsair HX850 (the latest model I believe). So I installed the Corsair PSU and it STILL won't turn on. However, I did not spam the power button this time. I figured it was definitely some other hardware problem. After hours of tinkering. I found out that strangely, my PC turns on when my RTX 3070's power cables are removed. At that point I was convinced that my GPU was dead, but after trying it on my old 2015 PC, it would still turn on and run, and is detected correctly by windows. I need a GPU to make my newer PC work (because my CPU doesn't have an iGPU) so I tried plugging in my GTX 960 which I scavenged from my old system. The strangest thing is that my PC runs with the 960, but not when the 3070. It is still my current setup. Does this mean that my motherboard was the problem this whole time? Before I decide to buy a new motherboard, I would just like to ask your opinions if that would be the correct move to finally resolve everything. Why is it that my PC refuses to turn on with a 3070 but turns on with a 960? Things I've tried: - Tried using different power cables - Tried reseating RAM - Tried plugging the 3070 in the PCIe 3.0 slot - Cleaned the 3070 as well as my entire PC - Opened up PC case's power button and checked if it's working correctly Things I haven't tried: - Updating bios (I have little faith that this a firmware issue because the PC does not boot up in the first place. No fans spinning or signs of powering on if the 3070 is plugged in, and it was working well for a whole year prior to having these issues). Currently, I am still using the same PC but with the GTX960 installed. It has been working well and has no issues when gaming. Any knowledge / information regarding how this could be a motherboard issue (or if you have any other ideas) would be a great help. It would also help me decide whether to get a new motherboard or not.

Hey guys, I have a really odd situation on my hands. My home is older, with 150A breaker box. My rig in my room uses a 1000W power supply, I also have a few other peripherals (tv, 2 monitors, headphone amp and DAC, speakers). I will say that I don't plug in the TV or speakers very often because I am afraid to. When I do plug in either the speakers or TV in while I have my system on, I hear a very faint, rhythmic hum coming from somewhere. As soon as I turn off my setup, it goes away. I did have the electricians come out and replace a faulty outlet. I did hope that the bad outlet was the culprit of this, but it was not. I'm thinking of parting out my rig and downsizing a bit. Would getting a less powerful system solve my problems? Or could I get away with using a lower rated power supply? Rig specs are below, I've really reached my wits end with this. Specs of Rig: Ryzen 5800X Nvidia GTX 3080 Gigabyte X570 Gaming Pro Wifi 3 Samsung 1tb 2.5 in SSDs 2 Intel 660p 1tb Nvme SSDs 2 WD Green 2tb HDDs EVGA SuperNova 1000W PSU Fractal Design R7 Case Another thing I'm thinking about is replacing the outlet that has most of my peripherals plugged into it, but honestly that is expensive to do and I would like to not have to waste money in order to ultimately just downsize my PC anyway. I think that if I were to get a lower rated PSU that might solve my problems, but I am unsure. I just don't want my house to burn down.

I need help with quite a specific issue... I have a steamdeck (love it) and a nextdock (kind of like it). My idea when buying the nextdock was to use it to play with my steamdeck and do some work on my phone. My issue is that when I plug my steamdeck into the Nextdock it won't charge fast enough so it will slowly discharge... Ideally I would connect 2 cables to my steamdeck with some type of splitter, one USB c for charge and one USB c for the nextdock. I've tried using a USB c Hub but it wouldn't pass video to the nextdock. Connecting a USB charger to the hub and a HDMI to the nextdock will give me image but won't allow me to use the keyboard and mouse... so it's kind of pointless... Anyway, if anyone knows a way to solve it :)or has any questions, let me know

Hi All, As the title states, I have noticed that when playing Satisfactory that my laptop gets a higher and more stable framerate while on BATTERY rather than the power brick. I have adequite ventilation space, Vents are not obscured, and I am using the included charger for my device. Please advise! Specs: Lenovo P15v Gen 3 AMD Ryzen 7 PRO 6850H Nvidia RTX A2000 64 GB of DDR5 4800 MT/S Game is running on a 1 TB WD PCIE 4 NVME drive Windows 10 Pro 22H2 64 bit (Build 19045.3570) Thanks again all

Hello, my pc has caused my power in my house to cut out twice now. Before the surge, the fans in the pc would flicker on and off. I have powered back on the pc since the surge and the lights don't come on at all and it sometimes blue screen of deaths when I try boot. The fan lights flickering is what it was doing before the power cut. The picture where the lights arent working is after the power cut. Could you tell me what is wrong with it? Thank you Snapchat-1137988610.mp4

my routers power adapter was dead. so i replaced it. but then i show the router needs 9v whereas my adapter was 5v. it is working fine. but is it harmful?

Hello, I have a pc with an MSI 4070 Gaming X Trio, Ryzen 9 5900x, ASUS B550 Pro Plus WiFi, 32 gigs of G.Skill TridentZ RAM, an NVME 1 tb SSD, and Windows 11 home as an OS. I just upgraded from a 3060 to a 4070, and whenever I try to run a game like Warzone 2 or Apex or Valorant, my GPU usage won't go above 40%, even though it is not meeting the requirements, but as soon as I use Furmark, it can reach 98-99%? I've tried a lot of different solutions and just cannot find a solution.

Hey guys and gals, I need a new PSU for my computer. I need one that can power the following - RTX 4090 Strix 13th Gen CPU Motherboard of course (Asus Brand) 1 hard drive (3tb) (I bought this in 2016) 2 SSD's (from 2016) I have two M.2 cards connected to the motherboard as well, dont think that matters though. The power supply that I am using now is a NZXT HALE90 (link is here) https://www.newegg.com/nzxt-hale90-v2-np-1gm-1200a-1200w/p/N82E16817116022?Item=N82E16817116022&cm_mmc=SNC-Facebook-_-SS-_-facebookdeals-_-NA If you look at that link closely, you can see a bunch of 'peripheral' plug-in spots. I CANNOT find a PSU with these, which is what my 3TB Hard Drive plugs into, as well as my SSD's. I question myself with, "Am I missing something?" "Can my HDD and SDD use different cables that I am not aware of?" "Are there PSU's that don't have 'peripheral' plugs but still are able to connect to my HDD and SDD's?" Why do I need a new power supply if it's powering everything already? Because it's old, the fan doesn't spin and my PC crashes whenever I play any games that need the power. Something is wrong with it and I just want a new one. Got it in 2016. Please, if you can help, I'd greatly appreciate it! I'd like one that is 1000w-1200w if possible! Feel free to ask questions, I'll bookmark this page and check back often.

My screen starts to shut down like I've set it to, but the turns right back on after it's cycled off completely. I have found that if I unplug all of my USB keyboard and mouse dongles, that it will behave as expected. I've tried all generic settings changes in device manager and power management, and have even enabled the power while sleeping wake setting in my MSI BIOS. I'm hitting a brick wall here.

Hi Folks, I am having issues with my computer no longer appearing to no longer attempt powering on at all, from booting to not posting, varying degrees of lights coming on, to now nothing. My setup is ... Gigabyte B550I Aorus Pro Ryzen 5 3600 Zotac 3060ti 2 sticks of G. Skills DDR3 3600 RAM EVGA 750G2 Supernova modular psu NZXT h210 mini itx case, and their fans and kraken aio cooler. This morning I took out my R5 3600, and put in a brand new R7 5800X3D. I had some disposable money, and my case has stopped me from making meaningful GPU upgrades. So I got a new CPU. After installing, I loaded up a couple of different games, and had no problem. Noticable improvements in BG3 and Starfield. I left Starfield running, and went to the restroom. Came back, and everything was off, except the mobo LEDs. I tried starting it back up with the case power switch, and got nothing. So flipped the psu switch, off and on and tried again. Pressed the case power switch, and only got lights to the RAM sticks, no post, no fans turning on, nothing else. So I turned off the computer, took out a RAM stick, and tried again, and everything turned on, but never posted, just sat there until I gave up and turned it back off from the PSU. Several attempts of the same and it would no longer even power on the fans, or AIO, or PSU. So I unplugged the PSU, and replaced with 5800X3D with the old 3600. Still no power anywhere. I took things apart, thinking it could have fried the PSU, 750W should be plenty but it is old. I tried the paper clip trick, and the fan started no problem. I plugged everything back into the PSU and mobo, and tried to jump the mobo power switch pins, and got nothing. This is leading me to think the issue is my mobo. I get no power delivery from the motherboard, but the PSU seems to work fine without it. Removing RAM, and GPU has not changed behavior since the initial couple attempts to boot. I don't know how it would have died from running a pretty demanding game to this, but can't think of much else. Does anyone have any thoughts or troubleshooting I could do? Thanks!

So I bought an HP Omen 30L about a year and a half ago. It’s been great for the time i’ve had it, but here recently i’ve been having power issues with it. Whenever I go to run a game (whether it’s fortnite, fall guys, outer worlds, etc.), the PC will shut off, no windows shut down or anything of the sort, like a hardware shut down. But here’s the weird thing, when I turn the PC back on, it will let me run the game just fine. I can run the exact same game, but when I turn the game off & say, switch to a different game, it’s likely to happen again. I’ve already monitored the thermals, GPU gets no warmer than 70C & CPU no higher than 90C. I’ve taken the panel off, blew out the dust, & checked the connections. Nothing was melted, or loose that I could see. I’m thinking it’s a bad power supply, I believe it comes with a 750W Cooler Master. But the thing that I find weird about that is the OCCT test seems to be just fine? I wanted to get a second opinion from people who are probably smarter than I am. Thanks in advance.

So I have a Gtx 960 and I am testing it but the problem is in gpu Z it shows 29 watts for board power but 0 watts for gpu chip power but the gpu is on max load but it is not preforming good. The temps are also fine. I have no clue can anyone help me?

Hi guys, I just got a Aorus 3080 10gb card and I am wondering can It run properly with my power supply: The Be Quiet Pure Power 11 600w, Its a 80Plus Gold power supply. My build: Intel i5-9600k (Not overclocking) CURRENT: Strix 1080 (Not overclocking), NEW: Auorus 3080 10g (Not overclocking) 16gb ram 3 case fans A 2 fan CPU cooler by Coolermaster 2NVME ssd 1 HDD Asus Prime Z370 motherboard I check on some power supply calculators and it said max power draw 580 with the new card so theoretically it should be fine but I am not sure I dont want to randomly fry my PC. Any input will be appreciated, thanks a lot

My PC was working 3 days ago, and then I packed it up since I was moving houses. Now after I try turning it on, it won't show any signs of electrical activity whatsoever. My fans don't turn on and nothing lights up. The power supply and motherboard are getting power because if I attach any of my peripherals, they light up. However, the PC won't turn on at all. I had just kept it in my car while moving. Any ideas what could be wrong?

i have a dell XPS 8940, came with a gtx 1660, i got it for cad work but found out it runs games on lower setting very well. i used it for 2 years of university but all of a sudden its stopped working. So, night before the issue, i was watching YouTube, powered down normally, the next day however i got a black screen on boot then it booted up again and stared using the internal GPU, apparently my PC could no longer see my 1660, i tried to install new drivers thinking id fell behind on updates but i got the error: not compatible with this version of windows..... now if i boot the pc with the 1660 installed it get power for a second then dies, no power at all, and wont turn on. when i take the 1660 out, remove the CMOS battery for 15 secs and reboot it runs perfectly fine (using internal GPU) what could possibly be the issue here!? im stumped... extra: when im on chrome it works, YouTube is fine, but as soon as i open Netflix (on chrome) and log in, the screen goes black, EVERYTIME! forcing me to restart the pc by taking the power supply line out and removing CMOS battery before booting again.

The issue: Both my old and new PC crash while gaming/under load. No blue screen or freezing, just *poof* complete shutdown. Sometimes after 15-30 minutes, sometimes longer. After it restarted I can immediately start gaming again till it crashes again after some time... So because both systems experience the same exact same issue I would assume the PCs are not the issue? Temps are low on the new system so overheating seems unlikely. (below the parts of my new PC) I've tried different outlets in my apartment and different power cables but no success. Could the issue be my apartment's electrical installation? I don't know where else to look... Would a UPS be a solution? What are your thoughts? -Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO ATX Mid Tower Case -AMD RYZEN 7 7800X3D PROCESSOR 4.2 GHZ -MSI RTX 4080 16GB VENTUS 3X OC NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 GDDR6X -NZXT Kraken 360 - RGB - Black -Asus Prime X670-P -Kingston 32GB DDR5 6000Mhz (2x16GB) -be quiet! Light Wings PWM 56 CFM 140 mm Fans 3-Pack + NZXT F120 RGB Core 3-pack -Samsung 990 Pro 1TB M.2 -Corsair RM1000e Location: Europe, Belgium

If I plug the 8pin and 4pin CPU cables on the motherboard, nothing happens : no CPU/DRAM led, no fans spinning. The RGB ram sticks do turn on though. If I unplug both CPU power cable, the motherboard does post and the fans spins. However the CPU led does turn on (expected). What could be the cause ? Faulty CPU ? Fautly motherboard ? I tried with another CPU power cable that I had (from same PSU) : no changes. I reseated the CPU, with new thermal paste. No pins are bent Tested another cpu power cable and PSU I had If I plug only the 8pin one, nothing happens too. B650 Aorus AX AMD 7600x G.skill 2x16 Trident Z5 850W Seasonic PX

So my PC is about a year old and every time I play games, my USB's disconnect and reconnect (my keyboard, mouse, headset and microphone), sometimes they don't even reconnect and I've got to take the USB's out and back in for them to reconnect. I thought maybe it wasn't getting enough power but my cable is a CORSAIR 850W RMx SERIESTM MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD and is going straight into a power socket. Please if anyone knows why this is happening I would love to fix it as its happening almost every time I try to game something.

Im just wondering if its enough to put only one 8 pin on cpu power with ASUS ROG STRIX B650-A GAMING WiFi and AMD Ryzen 7 7700X or i need put power in other 4pin cpu power pls help before I buy thx i have 750w psu but lost cables in moving to new apartment and now I cant find psu power cable po cpu pin thanks for Any answer