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Hi. I was wondering which of the two cards listed above is the better card overall. I just read 3dguru's review and the poseidon card is about the same performance except the temps but costs a bit more than the amp extreme. Is the extra price worth it? Thank you in advance!

So I wanted to buy the EVGA Supernova 1000W P2 Platinum PSU ( http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_1619&products_id=27014 ), but I noticed that the place I'm buying it from has the 1200 watt version of the same model for $30 less. ( http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_1619&products_id=30080 ). Is there ANY reason not to grab the 1200W? Something like not putting it under enough load therefore not running it as efficiently as it should be? idk Thanks in advance.

so the dominator ram comes with white leds and an upgrade kit with a blue colored bar.... my whole build is green and black, well my roomates build. and i was wondering does any one know off hand what type of SMD leds the ram uses so i can replace them with green leds? OR OR OR has anyone tried dying the clear plastic light bar with RIT dye like people do to dye plastic rc car parts. cause then i can mix green and black more more of a dark green or just less bright green.

NCIX: http://bit.ly/1J497IJ Amazon: http://geni.us/1LqN When Corsair offered to lend us a kit of their 128 GIGABYTE DDR4 memory, it was hard to turn them down... But is 128GB of DDR4 really necessary?

Intel Core i7 5960X Amazon: http://geni.us/3ZRM NCIX: http://bit.ly/1LHqX05 ASUS Strix Fury Amazon: http://geni.us/43dk NCIX: http://bit.ly/1irdpOU Cooler Master MasterCase 5 Amazon: http://geni.us/3Izz NCIX: http://bit.ly/1j1KQYZ Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 Amazon: http://geni.us/3fWC NCIX: http://bit.ly/1iHR7t2 Raijintek Triton Amazon: http://geni.us/3Md5 NCIX: http://bit.ly/1OoHDPT Just how hard is it to build your own PC? Linus' 3-year old son has the answer... https://www.vessel.com/videos/NtdPGVlpo

All the time I'll see people recommend PSUs based on efficiency. This, although fundamentally a good idea so that you don't end up with a stick and some chewing gum powering your system, shows that most do not understand what 80 PLUS efficiency implies. Let's get a couple myths out of the way: - "A higher 80 PLUS rating correlates to better quality." Incorrect. Certain components in a PSU do need to be of a certain quality to achieve higher efficiency (typically MOSFETs and diodes), however, quality of soldering, certain capacitors, etc, can be forgone in achieving an exemplary 80 PLUS rating. Electrical performance can be ditched as well. I like to use the EVGA G1 as an example of this. It's made of above average componentry, performs lackingly, and achieves gold efficiency. Then there's the EVGA B2, which is constructed about as well, performs better electrically, and advertises 80 PLUS Bronze efficiency (it actually achieves 80 PLUS Silver efficiency but that standard has been given up by and large). The EVGA B2 is a better PSU than the G1, yet it wastes slightly more electricity. This will correlate to a marginally more expensive power bill (pennies on the dollar for most home users) but ensures you a better power supply for your money. If, however, you plan to run a very power-hungry system for several hours on end then a more efficient power supply can save a more noticeable amount of money, especially if used heavily during hours of the day where electricity is more expensive. On another note: some brands will undersell their unit's rated wattage if it can achieve higher efficiency at lower loads, I.E. a brand may sell a 550W 80 PLUS Platinum rated unit that can actually output 600W+ but would have to be advertised at a lower efficiency rating if they were to sell it at that rated wattage. - "Higher 80 PLUS efficiency keeps the PSU cooler." Not to any serious degree, but this is technically true. A less efficient PSU will waste more electricity and wasted electricity is turned into heat. This is not likely to have an appreciable impact on the temperature of your room or system however as your system doesn't really draw that much power, thus it's better to optimize your system's airflow before throwing an AX1500i in your system to minimize heat created by the power supply. Since PSUs exhaust heat anyways the temperature of your system's hardware will not be impacted to any noticeable degree. Different PSUs also handle cooling differently and 80 PLUS efficiency doesn't correlate to the size of the fan used or the heat-dissipation abilities of the unit. - "Power supplies are most efficient at around 50% load." This is, by and large, untrue, and seems to be set in stone by many simply because the peak efficiency measured by Ecova's testing of just three load levels is at 50% always. Many manufacturers or reviewers test PSU efficiency at different loads and post charts online, if this matters to you, but many PSUs are more efficient at 60% load than 50% and many are more efficient towards 30%. Don't buy a PSU based on how efficient it will be with whatever hardware you have in it. Different topologies and different PSU platforms handle efficiency differently. This should be a non-issue and you should be looking at buying the best PSU you can get with your money. - "If you have a 1000W PSU with an 80% efficiency then you are only going to be able to get 800W from your power supply." This is incorrect. If you have an 80% efficient 1000W PSU then, when putting it under enough load to max its output you are going to be drawing more power from the walls - not losing output from your power supply. In this instance, putting a 1000W PSU under max load with an 80% efficiency would mean you're drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Math goes as such: X / Y= Z 1000W / .80 = 1250 1250W drawn from the wall X represents the wattage you're using (say 350W with a Ryzen 7 3700X and RTX 2080 Super under 100% system load), Y represents the efficiency in decimals (an 85% efficient PSU would be .85), and Z represents your total system draw from the wall. For this calculation we're assuming that the PSU in question has exactly enough wattage to power the system at 100% load and is 87% efficient at 100% draw, making it an 80+ Gold efficient power supply. So in our case with the 3700X and 2080 Super: 350 / .87 = 402 watts drawn from your power outlet Note, however, that efficiency is not consistent throughout the load of the power supply. Power supplies are more and less efficient at different loads. They are also more efficient when connected to a more powerful grid, the 230V nominal, which you may use if you don't live in North America. Check that your PSU allows for operation under both voltages. Most modern ones switch operation automatically. Other, often older units, will have a hard switch at the back of the unit to switch to choose from either 115V or 230V (note, DO NOT SWITCH TO THE ONE THAT DOESN'T MATCH THE ELECTRICAL OUTPUT OF YOUR WALL OUTLET! This doesn't usually end well!). This graph demonstrates the efficiency curve of a 2011-era Corsair TX750 when plugged into a 115V AC versus being plugged into a 230V AC. Note the TX750 is an 80+ Bronze rated PSU. If you live in the United States, for example, you are using a 110-120V (115 nominal) AC through a standard NEMA 5-15 socket. Your power supply may be more or less efficient than your manufacturer claims because they may advertise efficiency through a 230V AC, though standard 80 PLUS efficiency testing is done on a 115V AC. Note that these tests for efficiency are also done under very specific test environments and do not necessarily reflect real-world scenarios so you may achieve higher or lower efficiency than rated by the manufacturer. And just to finish up let's go list the various 80 PLUS ratings and their efficiency at different power draws on a 115V and 230V AC as well as 230V AC redundant. Note that Silver isn't really used anymore and the efficiency of a PSU that would achieve Silver certification would typically just be rounded up or down to Bronze or Gold. "230V internal redundant" refers to efficiency in a redundant scenario like in a data center. This guy from Dell explains it. One last thing I want to make a little more hard-hitting here. 80 PLUS efficiency ratings were invented to save corporations and industrial services money in the long-term, not home users! A company with 1000 computers all consuming 100W for 10 hours a day will see a much greater benefit from having all 80 PLUS Titanium units in their systems than you likely would with your system. Don't spend tons of money trying to get a super efficient PSU when a PSU that's just as good, costs less, and achieves a tier lower 80 PLUS rating is drastically cheaper. Resources: Ecova (formerly Ecos), the 80 PLUS certification founder (and located very near me in Portland!) Wikipedia - There's more info here if you want to go down the Wikipedia rabbit hole Plug Load Solutions - A list of all PSU companies and how many different PSUs they have that achieve Ecova's various 80 PLUS standards.

I am planning to build a compact rig. I was wondering if there are some psu that is smaller than 160mm and is fully modular. Also, I want the psu to be 850w or higher with black, blue, or red color. p.s. Can you tell me if that psu is quiet or not? thanks

Hello guys. I was wondering if, the EVGA G2 850 Gold is enough for Asus R9 290x DirectCU OC Crossfire? Or do i have to buy the Corsair AX860 Platinum? It's a Gold vs Platinum.. I can spare some money, if i buy the EVGA.. Card: http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/R9290XDC2OC4GD5/ EVGA: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0850-XR Corsair: http://www.corsair.com/se-fi/ax860-atx-power-supply-860-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-fully-modular-psu-eu

So I got bored and had the stock bars for my Dominator Platinums lying around and I wanted to paint them black for the hell of it. If I messed up I already had the light bars installed so no big deal. Didnt use Plati-shit like everyone else Should I do it?? Fuck it, why not 1 coat down, probably going to do 3 My system right now aswell, still a work in progress

So Corsair makes a set of 16GB (2 x 8GB) RAM sticks running at at 1600 MHz with a Cas Latency of 7. Is anyone using this RAM set and how do they perform? Does anyone know how they compare performance wise to the other 16GB Dominator Platinum sets? For example 1600 MHz C7 vs. 2133 MHz C9 vs. 2400 MHz C11? I know that the performance difference won't be that much however, I'm still curious because the Cas Latency is so low on the set of 1600 MHz RAM. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!

Which memory kit is better?

What is the difference beetween Platinum // Gold // Silver // Bronze ?

Alright here's the story, I bought an ax760 and planned to buy the individually sleeved wire kit for it. I turned it on and got some insanely loud coil whine, sent it back immediately. I'm now kinda scared to buy a corsair psu because lots of reviews say there is lots of coil whine for the ax760 and ax860.....one reviewer even said he had 3 units with coil whine but got over it. I'm interested in a platinum psu with an individual sleeved wire kit. should I maybe give corsair another chance or just grab an evga 1000 p2 psu with a sleeved wire kit? ax860 170$+ sleeved kit 90$ + 24pin sleeved 20$ = 280$ evga 1000 p2 190$ + sleeved kit 90$ = 280$ I just want something that looks nice, performs nice, and I want it to be insanely quiet. I never want the fan to come on. Oh and no coil whine, I'd like to sleep at night. with evga It seems I get a 10 year warranty and more wattage. what do you guys think?

Hey folks, im just want to know what is this 80+ in psu's, the bronze,silver,gold and platinum efficiency, and about getting more watts of psu for your rig, but your rig only consumes this amount, and doing that is bad, can someone explain me this, Thanks in advance

so I just finished a test boot on a PC everything is working fine. however the 2 sticks of 2133Mhz Corsair Dominator platinums arent being detected at the correct frequency. the system has no OS yet. The RAM is being detected at 1333Mhz How do I fix this? I have an MSI Z97 gaming 7 board with a 4690k in it if that helps

I have this Power supply, now i want to ask a couple of questions 1. There are 2 CPU Cables, one where you can divide it into 4+4 pins and another one where its just a single 8 pin. So which one should i use? my mobo is the ASUS M5A97 R2.0 2. I'm gonna use NZXT white sleeved extensions for my CPU, 24 pin, and pcie. will it affect voltages and stability? thanks.

This is my first build (in progress). Tomorrow, if everything goes A-Okay, my NZXT Sleeved LED (2M, White) will arrive. I'm also saving money for a graphics card and maybe a new PSU which is fully modular like the AX series from Corsair so that I can get some sleeved cables for the rig. Components: Case: Corsair 600T White Edition Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth Z77 PSU: Corsair CX750M CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 8 GB - 2133 MHz Boot Drive: Samsung SSD 840 PRO Series 128 GB Hard Drive: WD Black 1.0 TB Let's see some pictures.

I run Unigine Valley Benchmark and only got 3-4 Fps on my HD 7970.I am using asus HD 7970 matrix.Before this it run just fine.I didn't update the driver.The LED light on the graphic card turn into violet indicating it is having high load while running the benchmark

I'm only lv 25 but I'm curious about what division I would be im. I know its not a good way to find out but I just want to know others opinions ahout my games. If I suck just say it and yeah I know I'm playing with some under lv30s http://www.lolking.net/summoner/euw/46919460#matches

Seasonic SS-760XP2 ATX 12V/EPS 12V, 760W, 80 PLUS PLATINUM Full Modular certified Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready <------- is this reliable? Or should i stick with Corsair HX650, i don't plan on going SLI *the seasonic psu is cheaper My build: 4770K ASUS Maximus VII Hero EVGA GTX 780Ti Dual Classified w/ ACX Corsair H110 760T GSkill Trident X 16GB ASUS odd

EVGA SuperNOVA 850 vs. CORSAIR AX series AX760 I'm torn. I've had my eyes on the Corsair, but after a $20 difference its hard to justify. Both have amazing warranties and technology. EVGA: 850W, Full Modular, Gold Certified Corsair: 760W, Full Modular, Platinum Certfied I'm planning to have these in a gaming machine, but they'll only be powering 1 GPU (GTX 780 or 880) and maybe some minor OC. Is it worth it to save $20 for this amazing package?

Hello guys. I have installed my 7970 matrix platinum right now. And i have downloaded the drivers and the shit didn´t work. So i asked som thing at a swedish forum called sweclockers. After a diskussion i installed windows again. After that have i intalled the drivers again and when i starta a game it works fine until i join a game. When i have joined the game the pc crashes. So i have tried diffrent drivers. WHen u lowered my res to 800X600 it did work. But when i higherd it a bit the game crashed again. So i don´t know what to do. Some people at Sweclockers think that the card is DOA (dead on arival) But before i send my card back i wanna ask you. THanks for you´r help And btw. It is now overheating i have checked the temps

Greetings All! I am looking at getting a new PSU; just got a new 780 and it seems to be tripping my 7 year old Ultra X3 1000w. Not surprised. As the title suggests I am considering either the Antec HCP-1000 or the Seasonic Platinum 1000, however my ears are open to suggestions. The features I particularly am looking for is fully modular design, 1000w, and preferably 80plus platinum rating. I am well aware my system does not require 1000w PSU, however I use my computer for testing of client hardware so I need to overbuy on this. I sometimes will have to test a 3 or 4 way SLI/Crossfire config other times run an integrated GPU. I really need the flexibility of something that will work no matter what load I put on it. I lean towards the Seasonic Platinum at the moment solely due to the single rail versus multiple rail design. I have no experience with multi-rail systems however so perhaps someone more experienced might shed some light on possible advantages to consider. Any suggestions, experience, or other information you can provide will be greatly appreciated, I want to make a purchase fairly soon but at the same time, would like my PSU to maybe pull another 7+ years if it can :D Dem other specs in case they matter. Core i7 950 1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD + OCZ Agility 4 SSD Ultra M923 case (Full tower ATX case) And I can't imagine any other spec that would matter in a PSU sense. Thanks for all the future help!

http://kingwin.com/products/cate/power_supplies/lzp_550.asp Does it? THIS IS JUST OUT OF CURIOUSITY

Hey! I would apreciate some help here. I´m building a PC. I was buying 32GB of RAM, and I choosed Dominator Platinum. A quad-channel pack of 1866MHZ RAM of Platinum was way more expensive than 2 dual channel kits of the same frecuency. So, I bought 2 dual channel kits. Here's the link of the RAM I bought. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z1CVIQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i04?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now, I read some forums and I'm aware that theorically it's not the same because the quead-channel kits are tested to work that way. But, my question is, should I have problems with the 2 dual channel kits? They are exactly the same in all specs, and I'm guessing that they will work in a quad channel setup in my Rampage IV Extreme. Will I have problems or they will work fine taking advantage of the quad-channel technology? If not, what do I do? D: Thanks