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Just curious if anyone might have experience with editing 720-1080p video. And what would be the cheapest build I could do for a smooth experience editing 720p video and maybe 1080p it just needs to be a simple build nothing fancy something to get the job done and while it doesn't need to render the final job quickly I'd like to avoid lag when scrubbing through video. That's all that's needed. Perhaps a used laptop recommendation too? Ideally looking to spend under $200. I already have 16gbs of DDR4 2400mhz ram. Dyt it'd be fine to use an office PC with like a 7th gen i5 or i7? I have the budget for better but I'm not looking for anything crazy just something that'll work.

so... I was checking this video on YouTube and if you watch the video the water gets a pretty good speed when he pours it down the straw because there's almost no resistance in it, so that should mean that if you use that you could get a better flow rate due to the lack of resistance on the tubing and also in theory that could also be a very good solution for permeation and that's always a concern in water-cooling a pc on the long run, can someone correct me if I'm wrong with this or someone has already done before and can share the experience? on the other side it will be amazing doing a full hydrophobic pc for an ltt video if there's a way to make that happen jajajajaja

I'm looking to potentially upgrade some parts, though, I'm not incredibly certain which I should go for so I figured I'd ask here. Also, if I'm missing anything below - please let me know! This is my first time sharing. Current specs: CPU: Intel i5-11600K - 11th Gen Mobo: ASUS TUF GAMING Z590-PLUS Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO V2 Case: Zalman ATX Mid Tower PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 GT 80 Plus Gold GPU: MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 3070 Ti 8GB RAM: OLOy Blade RGB 64GB DDR4-3600 (4×16GB) HDD: WD Blue 1TB SSD: SAMSUNG 970 EVO PLUS M.2 2280 1TB Monitor 1: Sceptre IPS 24" 165Hz (1920x1080) Monitor 2: BenQ MOBIUZ EX240N 24" 165Hz (1920x1080) 1. Budget & Location I'd prefer it be under $1K USD. I'm US based. 2. Aim I mostly use my PC for gaming. Some examples being Black Desert, FPS games such as CoD and the likes, FFXIV, and so on. Those are my most played games in order, but I can list more if needed. 3. Monitors I use two monitors currently, but I have thought about getting a third. I'm not fully decided on that, though. 4. Peripherals I don't need peripherals or OS at the moment. 5. Why are you upgrading? It's been several years since I made any significant upgrades, so I feel my specs are somewhat outdated and could use some fine-tuning.

Going to be upgrading my GPU soon and only recently learned about bottlenecking so bare with me. For my current build I have a GTX 1070 and a Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7GHz, but I am going to be upgrading to a RTX 4080 (Or RTX 4080 Super depending on prices). I know the Ryzen 7 2700X will be a bottleneck for my new GPU but if I upgrade my CPU to a Ryzen 9 5950X will it still bottleneck my new RTX 4080? (I am going to be playing and working at 4K if that makes a difference) (The max I can upgrade my CPU to at the moment is the Ryzen 9 5950X due to my motherboard) Also another bonus question, my 2700X has a base clock of 3.7Ghz while the 5950X has a base clock of 3.4Ghz but can be overclocked to 4.9Ghz while the 2700X can only be overclocked to 4.3Ghz. What's up with that? Why does the newer better CPU have a lower base clock? MY CURRENT BUILD: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/72PbdH (Will any of my other PC parts bottleneck my new GPU?) (I will be upgrading my PSU to a 1000w so don't worry about that)

Budget (including currency): 1500-2000 euro Country: PL, AU, DE Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Cybersecurity, Virtual Machines, Lab Environment, small web project (JS, Frontend), games?? time to time POE, HUNT: Showdown and POE2. Other details: I'm have monitor iiyama G-Master GCB3480WQSU-B1 Red Eagle, 34" and have PSU Corsair RMx 750 gold Hi all, after a long time with Windows systems (about 8 years), I'm going back to Gentoo, I also want to upgrade my PC. Can you tell me how much my build is optimally priced for linux. I'm planning to use KDE 6 for the first time, very interested in how it is now. OS: Linux, Gentoo Mobo: ASUS TUF Gaming B650-Plus WIFI (90MB1BZ0-M0EAY0) CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900, 12C/24T, 3.70-5.40GHz, boxed (100-100000590BOX) GPU: Radeon RX 7900 GRE or 7900xt RAM:Corsair Vengeance schwarz DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR5-6000, CL36-44-44-96 (open for suggestions and tips!) CASE: NZXT H510 Flow How much faster will the first option be than this one? 50 to 60 percent? mpg x570 gaming plus, ASRock Radeon RX 7900 GRE, DDR-4 corsair vengeance DDR4 32GB 3600MHz, AMD Ryzen 9 5900X. Thanks for taking your time to read amd help me!

Hey all! Decided to download Division 2 to play with a friend over the weekend. However, I ran into a pretty strange display issue. I attached a video of what happens. Basically, the game launches, and works for a brief moment before the screen goes black and it begins flickering from the black screen to my desktop over and over again. It does not stop. There is no way to get out of this loop except for rebooting the machine. Some of the troubleshooting steps I have tried: - Roll back Nvidia drivers - Disable multiple displays and try running the game with only 1 - Reinstalling the game on by 2 different drives - Forcing the game to run in Dx11 instead of 12 - Verifying the game files - Checked Event Viewer but couldn't locate anything noteworthy I'm pretty lost as to what can be the issue, since I play a multitude of other games and none of them have these issues. Would appreciate any help on this! 72810353842__7099DDF8-6C53-4ECA-91C2-14E747DA531F.mov

Budget (including currency): 800$ Country: U.S. Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Counter-Strike 2, Fortnite, Some Call of Duty games, story games... Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I'm gonna be buying a 165 hz 1080p monitor so i wanna play around 165 fps at 1080p (Don't need high fps for story games)

Look on advice on what parts I should look to upgrade on my PC. Current set up: Motherboard MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS Motherboard ATX, AM4, DDR4, LAN, USB 3.2 CPU AMD Ryzen 3 3200G Processor (4C/4T, 6MB cache, 4.0GHz Max Boost) GPU Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080ti SSD/HDD Samsung 960 EVO 500GB 2TB Harddrive RAM DDR4 16GB 2400mhz Any more info required just ask. Looking to upgrade as it's very slow on boot up and in gaming it's starting to lag behind what I want it for. Looking for advice on upgradeability of the above specs or on building a new pc (specs) and what I could turn the old one into.

So I was playing Minecraft as well as watching YouTube on my PC about an hour ago and then suddenly I hear this loud "POP". My PC immediately turned off and the lights in my room turned off too. Reset the circuit breaker, my lights are working now but the PC still won't turn on. I tried resetting the PC and the circuit breaker a few times but nothing happened. I currently have it unplugged. The computer is an IBuyPower, I've had it for two years and I got it from Best Buy. I'm unsure what happened, can someone tell me what happened and what I should do? I just wanna make sure my PC isn't permanently screwed over.

Budget (including currency): $1,000-$1,250 USD for PC only (ideally lower) Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Chrome, Light documents/files, Roblox, Epic Games (Fortnite, Apex), Flight Simulator, Cities: Skylines, Farming Simulator Other details: Upgrading from a very slow 2017 iMac (base spec) https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hB6Zrv Questions: - Does brand of M.2 matter? - Do I need more than 1 TB of storage? - Which case is better?

So I was cleaning my pc (what I do every 6 months) and after cleaning my fans and everything I went and plugged it back in and it won’t get any display, so I wanted to turn it off by power button and when I hold it in it blinks and it’s running at max fan speed. (It’s not the cable and I didn’t plug it in the motherboard)

Simple Questions Regarding The Viability & The Overall Market For Such Computer's: Firstly, thanks so very much for sharing your opinions and thoughts on everything and for helping me to find out if it is viable for me to go ahead with sharing the computer's I make for my little hobby of building old vintage PC's with others. My real question is whether it would be viable to proceed with selling old & vintage Computers I build using parts that are as close to new or new old stock as possible. The OS I would mainly be using is Windows XP. What do people think when it comes to the market being big enough & if people would be willing to pay a small to medium premium for me to cover my parts costs, sales fee's, postage costs & very importantly my time that it takes to source the parts, build the Computer's and all the time listing the PC's, communicating with customers and packaging the PC's etc? If anyone has anything at all they can add, even thing or questions I haven't thought to ask, that would be appreciated so very much Thanks again in advance

Hello all, First time poster, long time lurker. I've finally got my remote gaming PC setup and desk to a point where I would like to share the setup with the community. I hope others wanting a similar setup can gleam some useful ideas from this post! Background: My gaming PC puts out a good amount of heat, and my desk is in my bedroom. In the summer the room is brutal after a few hours of gameplay. Even with aggressive AC, the room can hit 90F. I've seen Linus' setup and I already had a server rack, so I figured I'd do a similar thing with the long distance display cables. I did try out other methods; RDP, moonlight, and steam remote play, but found the latency and compression were just too noticeable. Not to mention that wake on lan is unreliable in my experience. As for thunderbolt, I didn't want to get stuck into an ecosystem of specific motherboards and cpus. The Long Cables: I found some good 75ft optical USB and Displayport cables on Amazon for ~$160 a piece. Its definitely pricy for a single cable, but it is plenty worth it IMO. I was worried about latency issues with long cables, but after testing it out, I found no noticeable difference between a 3ft USB and display cable and the 75ft cables. The Gaming PC Power Switch: The PC power switch circuit is 5v but only 0.01 amps, so voltage drop over 75ft could be less than a volt. So I could just run a pair of wires the whole distance. But I thought, if I'm running a whole other cable through the walls, I might as well make it a useful cable. Despite the extra cost, I decided to use a CAT 7 Ethernet cable and just hijack a twisted pair inside the cable. Just a little bit of future proofing if I move in the future, for the next person. I got one of those momentary push buttons with built in LED, the ones you might find on custom PC cases. And I could use a second twisted pair in the Ethernet cable and splice into the power LED header on the motherboard. Granted, the voltage drop at that distance with 24-26 awg wires is about half, but the LED still illuminates enough. And as a side benefit, I still had two twisted pairs left, just enough for a 100base-tx connection, as well as PoE mode A. (Don't ask me why when I already have an Ethernet cable to my room, in short I'm splicing off two pairs for a PoE powered GPS NTP server in the attic) As for each end of this power switch madness, I wanted something that wasn't entirely cobbled together. So, I found some Ethernet splitters, the ones that split out a gigabit Ethernet cables 4 twisted pairs into 2 100base-tx connections. For the PC side of things I got one of those M.2 to RJ45 network adapters. The one I found has the all the logic on the m.2 side, so the pcie bracket just had raw electrical connections. I used this as a nice way to make the bulkhead connection into the PC case. I got some splitters for the motherboards power sw and led headers, and connected up the rj45 network adapter. The other side was definitely more cobbled. I cut the end off an Ethernet cable and soldered the pairs (orange and green) onto the push button. Covered it in dielectric grease and wrapped in electrical tape and fabric wrap. Audio: I went pretty basic here, my monitor has 3.5mm port, so I'm just using audio over displayport. Then I have a terribly cheap 3.5mm mixer. I have ground loop isolators on all inputs and outputs and there is still a small hum in the background - to be fixed later. USB hub: This remote PC isn't my daily driver, for that I have a SFF Linux box. My KVM switch has two USB 3.0 ports (not for keyboard and mouse) that I have for a microphone and any USB drives I might need. Side note: The reason I have the connectpro KVM specifically is because I hate the delay of regular USB switches, so I needed one with USB DDM. Cable routing: I'm fairly lucky, theres an air return vent that shares a wall with my bedroom. I'm on the second floor and my server rack is in the basement, right next to the HVAC system, so it was basically a direct cable drop through the first floor. Pictures: Middle monitor is the only one I run on the gaming PC, the sides stay permanently on my daily driver SFF. Views of my cable rats nest. Gotta hide 'em somewhere: Definitely not completely finished with this setup, still have some things to take care of, like having a non-duct taped together quality audio mixer, and maybe mounting the UPS and KVM under the desk. I would love to hear what y'all think! Parts Lists: Desk: Flexispot E7 Pro Center Monitor: Dell s2716dg - 27" 1440p 144hz Side Monitors: Lenovo li2364d - 23" 1080p 60hz UPS: APC BE850M2 KVM: ConnectPro UDP-12AP Keyboard: Logitech K740 Mouse: Logitech M500s Headphones: beyerdynamic DT 700 PRO X Network Switch: Ubiquiti UniFi Switch Lite 8 PoE Access Point: D-Link PoE DAP-2610 (openwrt) Cables: 1x 75ft Kxable USB 3.0 Extension Cable, Active Fiber Optical Male to Female 1x 75ft FURUI Fiber Optic DisplayPort 2.1 1x 75ft Adoreen Cat 7 SFTP shielded RJ45 Ethernet cable PVC/LLDPE 26 AWG Copper Power switch: 1x uxcell Momentary Metal Push Button Switch 12mm Mounting 1NO 3-6V White LED (I'd recommend a larger diameter though) 1x IO Crest M.2 Gigabit Ethernet Module, 1000BASE-T M.2 A+E NIC Module 2x SinLoon (A-Pair) RJ45 Ethernet Splitter Adapter Gaming PC: CPU: Intel i7-8700k @ 5 GHz Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 AIO RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 3000MHz CL15 Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus XI Code GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 Noctua Storage: Samsung 970 evo plus 2TB NVMe Case: SilverStone RM52 5U Rackmount Server Chassis SST-RM52 PSU: Corsair AX860 80+ Platinum Daily Driver SFF: CPU: Intel i3-10105 @ 3.7GHz Cooler: Cryorig C7G RAM: Crucial Ballistix 16GB DDR4 3200MHz CL16 Motherboard: MSI MEG Z490I UNIFY Mini-ITX GPU: Intel iGPU Storage: 2x Samsung SATA SSD 870 EVO 1TB (ZFS RAID) 1x Samsung NVMe SSD 980 PRO 500GB (Home drive) 1x Supermicro SATA SSD SuperDOM 16GB (Boot drive) Case: Sliger SM550 PSU: Corsair SF450 80+ Platinum

Like it's saying in the title I am getting the error "The computer restarted unexpectedly or an unexpected error occurred" when trying to install windows 10. I don't know how to fix it and I really would appreciate help. I had windows 10 installed before but I wanted to reinstall it because it gave me a bluescreen all the time after starting up the PC. The PC worked fine on the same day but someone took it off the power while it was downloading a game. So after trying to fix the bluescreen I secure erased the ssd with windows on, had some problems installing windows again on that ssd so I bought a new ssd and ram because it might had been the ram causing the blue screens in the first place. I got to the point to install windows but after it restarted automatically it got that error message and I couldn't fix it. I've tried changing a value from 1 to 3 in system.exe which is located in "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\Setup\Status\ChildCompletion I hope someone can help me with my problem. I would appreciate the help alot. Specs: MSI B650 carbon wifi Ryzen 7 7800X3D Radeon RX 7900XTX Corsair Rm1000e Powersupply Samsung 990 pro 2tb Samsung 980 pro 1tb (windows drive)

PC won’t load out of bios? I have had this pc for about over one year and I have not had problems . Awhile back I did change some parts out but for the most part recently had not swapped anything. For awhile my pc would just load bios for awhile and then after a few resets it would let me in. It got worse after awhile and would take longer. I knew loading windows in a usb would probably work and it did for awhile until it didn’t. It would not take it for some time and similar would let me do it after awhile but now it won’t let me in even when I try loading windows. (I have checked to see if it had at the very least tried to load it has broken down the drive but doesn’t load my pc) I don’t know what to do as I’ve also messed with bios as it has worked once or twice just messing with stuff(I think) but nothing works. I don’t want to keep loading windows into it as I’m not sure if that’s just making it worse and I unplugged the hard drive which does let me load windows on my ssd I believe but also wont let me keep any recovery files meaning it would basically be a factory reset and even then I don’t know if it would let me use my hard drive later without making it the main drive again. If anyone has any clue where to go from here I’d be truly thankful I’d take shots in the dark tbh (another random thing is it shows me what I can boot out of and it shows the usb but not any of the drives one time I remember it did show the a drive and loaded as normally) 1st picture - (know it’s blurry)when I load the windows on my pc it just shows a blank screen with a underline on the top left kind of like when running something on cmd) (I’ve also tried safe booting again just goes to bios)

Hello there, my PC sometimes crashes for absolutetly no reason. I thought, that it was because of my PSU, but an online calculator said, that about 560 Watts should be enough, my PSU has 700 Watts. I can't find the problem, it happens at least once a day, when I use my PC. The issue only exists since I have the RTX 4070, before I had an GTX 1650. With that one I had no problems at all. I'd like to notice, that I have a few internal HDDs and a few SSDs. Is there a way to see what causes this problem? It mainly happens when I play games btw. Thank you already!

My entire life I've been using different laptops that were given to me and would like to get a PC. Where do y'all recommend I buy it from? I'm only planning to use it for games like Modded Minecraft, Roblox, Apex, and other random games. I want to get a Pre-Built because it seems easier instead of building one.

Hi, Specs: CPU: intel core i7 13700k GPU: ASUS rog strix 3080ti PSU: Cooler Master V750 SFX Gold Rev.2 MOBO: ASUS rog strix b660-i SSD: samsung nvme 970 I tried playing GTA 5 in this week but i cant get it to run smoothly. It stutters like crazy. I will attach a video to demonstrate the problem. I have so far tried to change around with pretty much all graphics settings to no succes. I have also tried reinstalling but that did not help either. Does anyone else have a similiar problem or any idea how this might be solved? gta 20240114.mp4

Hi, my ds4 controller that i was using for a long time just died. I was looking for a replacement and the KK2 was a good choice i think but soon the KK3 max gonna release on market. Do you think i should wait for the KK3 or just buy the KK2. P.S : im playing on pc, if you have any other controller in the 50-60$ price range that you would recommend and im in France so take eu market in consideration !

I am going to build a computer and i have been fiddling with pc part picker. My budget is from 600 to 900 dollars. This is the link to the build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KLkKkJ My plan is to use the 8600G CPU from AMD. I will be doing lite gaming, like minecraft and roblox. I will also do some AI or ML stuff as well. Please tell me if you think there is any way to cut on budget or any other concerns. Thank you in advance.

Hello there, hope u guys had a nice Christmas. I am looking for a new Monitor, I want one with 1440p and at least 144 hz between 27 and 32 inches. I have about 350 Euros or about 385 dollars and i don't care if it's curved or not. Right now i am looking at a GIGABYTE M27Q or an LG 27GP850P-B UltraGear™. Do u guys have any recomendations? Thanks in advance. Herbs

I built a new pc and my wireless headphones, anker q45, have are stuttering and sometimes cutting off with audio. I have all updated drivers and have tried reinstalling windows. It works on my lenovo laptop fine as well as my phone. Specs: i7 14700kf Hellhound 7900xt MSI PRO z790-A WIFI Arctic Liquid Freezer ii 360mm Acer Predator 2tb NZXT h7 Flow rgb g.Skill trident z5 2x16gb MSI a1000g Windows 11 Home 64 bit Bios: 7E07vA8 (latest)

Budget (including currency): 1500cad Country: cad Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: beamng vr Other details What would be the best pc build form a simracing with vr ?

guys i would like to know your opinion about this psu and is worht it due to the cheap price or i should stick to a well known psu ?

Hi all, Need some help here. Let me start with some context. I have my an AV receiver (Onkyo TX-L50). Into it, I have a laptop plugged in via HDMI. Also into the receiver I have optical sound from a PC. The PC is connected to an ultrawide monitor, the Samsung Odyssey G9 Neo suing a DP cable. What I would like to do, is achieve an Atmos audio output from the PC into my 5.1 speaker setup, which is currently powered by the AV receiver. I was told that if I enable “passthrough” on the AV receiver and use HDMI from the GPU (an RTX 4090) it should just show whatever is being output from the GPU on the monitor with no processing. This does work to some extent – it shows the super-ultrawide display but it looks “off”, please see attached picture. Here are my questions… 1) Does anyone know of an AV receiver that will achieve the super-ultrawide picture? I don’t mind the price (within reason). HDR and Atmos is a must, but I imagine at the category I am looking at, it will have those as a given. 2) Should my current one actually work, but the problem is I am doing something wrong – perhaps with refresh rate? UPDATE: I already have audio working from my pc to the avr via optical. reason I am looking to do this is to have Atmos so I can enjoy Atmos audio from movies and some games - as you know optical does not have the bandwidth to support this.