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Hey guys, I'm new on forums (but now on LTT YouTube channel) and I want to build myself a gaming PC. It will have an i5 4460, H97 MOBO, 16GB of DDR3 RAM, a 1TB of HDD and later this year a 256 SSD. Maybe 2-3 fans. The Video card will be R9 380 4GB or GTX 970 (depends on the money I can save from other parts). I have a problem with choosing the right PSU. I think a 500-600 watts PSU 80+ Bronze will be enough (no overclock, no future upgrade because I'm not a hardcore gamer). BUT, what model and what brand should I choose? Seasonic, Corsair? I've heard that Corsair CX500 has a not so nice coil noise. Is it true? What PSU do you have or what PSU do you recommend? PS: I live in Europe. Price: around 50-60$. Thank you!

Hey everyone! I'm planning to buy a new CPU ( i5-6500 or 6600K, not sure yet), and I would like some help to choose my motherboard. First of all, what chipset? Z170? H170 ? Then, what brand? I don't know if the diference between ASUS, ASRock, Gigabyte, or MSI is really big. Or if this doesn't matter. Finally, what model would be the best for these CPU ? I'm not sure, there are so many diferent motherboard I don't really know what to choose Thank you in Advance. My build : https://pcpartpicker.com/user/nastaliss/saved/#view=xThp99 .

Hello all! I found this old motherboard and I can't figure out exactly what brand/model it is (pictures attached). Here's some stuff I've found out already from looking at it and a little research. - has AMD-645/AMD 1997, tm TECH, and Winbound written on it in a couple places - socket-7 (originally had an AMD-K6-233ANR in the cpu socket) - looks almost exactly like the Shuttle HOT-569 released in 1997, but has a few parts in different places as well as saying AMD instead of INTEL written all over it. (picture of Shuttle HOT-569 for reference- http://redhill.net.au/b/jpg/b-hot-569a.jpg ) Is it some kind of weird knockoff, a different version of the Shuttle HOT-569, or something else entirely? Please let me know if you find anything out.

i was digging on the internet and i find this: Samsung UE40JU6410 good ? Max i can give is 800$ witch is about 1500BGN ( on bulgaria ) need 4k tv ... What other model u can offer me ? i dont need exacly samsung but popular brand = security ( my opion )

Hi everyone I live in Morocco, and needless to say, trying to find a decent mechanical keyboard is like trying to find a virgin prostitute, the only mechanical keyboards available here are an outstanding number of 2, the G710+ and the Razer blackwidow. I would have bought one of them if it wasn't for the gigantic price tag, or what i prefer to call, the gaming tax. Seriously the cheapest thing gets tripled in price when it gets imported here and I literally can't even, the g710+ is 350$ and the blackwidow is 400$ here. The other day i was lurking a market and i found a shop with countless Model M keyboards stacked one top of another, the guy (who doesn't know shit about what he's selling) asked around 70 MAD, or 10$ each. Should i buy this keyboard ? I've read everywhere that this keyboard is the very best, and i personally love loud mechanical switches, another thing is is it gonna work with the PS2 port on my mobo ? (MSI Z77G45)

Dear friends, Witch "NZXT" case model i should get ? ( Or if u think there is cooler and good case let me know ) I hope you awesome people here will help me out choose best case ! I want great start for my new fresh build i will do summer Phantom 630 Full Tower Cooling System: Front 1 x 200 or 2 x 140 or 2 x 120mm Top 2 x 200 or 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120mm HDD Pivot 1 x 140/120mm Radiator Support: Front 1 x 140 or 2 x 120mm Top 2 x140 or 3 x 120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm HDD Pivot 1 x 140/120mm Phantom 820 Ultra Tower Cooling System: Front: 1x 200mm Top: 2x 200mm or 2x 140mm or 3x 120mm Rear: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm height adjustable Bottom: 2x 140mm or 2x 120mm Side: 1x 200mm Pivot: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm internal pivot fan Radiator Support: Top: 2x 140mm or 3x 120mm Rear: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm Bottom: 2x 140mm or 2x 120mm Pivot: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm H440 Mid Tower ( Silent ) Cooling System: Front: 2x 140/3x120mm Top: 2x 140/3x120mm Rear: 1x 140/120mm Radiator Support: Front 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Top 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm H630 Ultra Tower ( Silent ) Cooling System: Front 2 x 200 or 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Top 2 x 200 or 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120mm HDD Pivot 2 x 140/120mm Radiator Support: Front 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Top 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120 Rear 1 x 140/120mm Switch 810 Ultra Tower Cooling System: Front 2 X 120/140mm Rear 1 X 120/140mm Top 3 X 120/140mm Radiator Support: Top 3 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm Interior 2x 120/140mm

Tesla doesn't want you tinkering with your car, largely because you're a moron who will cause something to go wrong, get in a crash, then proceed to blame Tesla for your screwup thus harming their image - a image they can't afford to tarnish since even though Tesla is "the shit" right now, they're still young and don't need Governmental inquiries into their safety or reliability to ruin the good streak they have going. I'm with them. This isn't a regular car you can do whatever you want on. This is a tad more complicated. Likely, the engineers who signed off the last piece of code know a little more about how to make it the best possible thing than you do. But thats just me. http://www.engadget.com/2015/03/04/tesla-10k-hack-model-s/

Hello In my local electronics store there is an offer for the floor model (Lenovo Thinkpad x240) i7 Processor 8gb ram touch display 10 hours battery life the battery is new inside the box and not used at all, but it was a floor model the real price was 2021$ they gave me a 65% discount it was around 855$ even used on eBay didn't have this price with those specs + the laptop was tied into security wire you can't move it i think it was displayed for 6-9 months Would you buy it ???

Source: http://blogs.wsj.com/digits/2014/12/11/chinese-smartphone-maker-oneplus-on-its-global-push-missteps/ I think it's really nice to see them address some of the more frequent questions. It's a learning process for all of us and I appreciate Oneplus trying to mature as they enter the market. They haven't even been up for a year yet. What they've done within that year is a bit overwhelming. Hopefully we can see some more improvements done the road. Feed back appreciated. -Majinferno

Hey guys, I want to build a custom desk with housing for my PC. The Red Harbinger Cross Desk is exactly what I wan't but I refuse to pay $1,500 for it when I can just build my own for a fraction of the price. Basically I need a 3D model or a Google Sketchup of the RHCD or a similar desk model. If anybody knows where I can find one/get one please let me know. Thanks! The Desk:

Hello everyone, I have another review for you! This time of the famous IBM Model M. Once again, I will post the text here, but to see all of the images and my sound test video you can follow this link to my website. Thanks for reading! ==== Now I shall review a retro IBM Model M. Today we're celebrating this particular keyboard's 20th birthday! Let's go over the typing experience first. As many of you know, this keyboard uses a buckling spring switch. There is nothing else like it. The actuation point is very pronounced, and the keystroke is heavier. You can't really bottom out the keys; the spring simply compresses until it can't compress any longer. I've achieved my highest and most accurate typing speed test scores (134+ wpm so far) with this keyboard. Most of all: it's fun! The most noticeable difference between the IBM Model M and other mechanical keyboards is the sound. Let's just say your colleagues at work are not going to be happy with your new-found love. Shall we give it a listen? As for build quality and design, it's built like a tank in the U.S.A., and it's appearance is old-school, classic. While it is made of plastic, the plastic is twice as thick as modern keyboards. Even though my keyboard has been on this earth for 20 years, there has been minimal, if any, discoloration during that time. It looks almost brand new. I especially love the raised and angled top row keys and the slight upward curvature to the keys on the other rows. However, it does take up a lot of space on your desk, which won't give you as much room for your mouse. The coiled cable is twice as thick as USB cables found with other keyboards. I like that it is removable, but I wish the connectors weren't proprietary. There are two small rubber feet on the bottom of the keyboard, but they are sufficient. Even if they were not included, the keyboard would **not** be moving around much because it is so heavy. This is also true when using the plastic angle adjustment feet. Another part of the great build is the keycaps. It would be just as hard to find a new-in-box IBM Model M as it would be to find a McDonald's burger with less than 10 grams of fat. This being the case, I purchased mine used. I was especially surprised to find no key shine. Part of the reason is because it uses higher quality PBT keycaps. The sides of the keys are glossy, while the tops have a nice simple texture. They also have dye-sublimated lettering. While a tiny bit fuzzy to the *Retina display* trained eye, they should never wear. At least, that's what the rumors say. There are some downsides to using this keyboard, and I'll go over those. One thing about the keyboard that bothers me is that the top and bottom halves in the front of the case have a visible gap. The spacebar is louder than the other keys, and has a different/looser tone. This is probably due to movement of the stabilizers. You simply cannot game. Not only are the switches heavier and wouldn't provide fast enough response, there is only 2 key roll over. This doesn't affect you when you're typing, not in the least, but when gaming even a rubber dome keyboard would be easier to use. I do miss the Windows key. I use shortcuts all the time to get into Windows Explorer (Win+E), go straight to the desktop (Win+D), and open up the start menu (using StartIsBack) in Windows 8. The good thing is you can use software called [KeyTweak](http://webpages.charter.net/krumsick/) to get around this. I've swapped out my caps lock key for the Window key, for instance. If you play games often and constantly have to swap out your board, this isn't ideal as KeyTweak requires a restart for any changes to occur. Another option similar to Keytweak is [AutoHotKey.](http://www.autohotkey.com/) Considering this product is now 20 years old, it's amazing how it still competes well with other, more modern, mechanical keyboards. I like it a lot, and I can almost guarantee you will too. If you're interested in picking one up for yourself, [Clicky Keyboards](http://www.clickykeyboards.com/) does a really nice job professionally cleaning, refurbishing, and then selling these keyboards. I am definitely going to be keeping this for a very long time, at least another 20 years.

Hello all, I was looking through the build logs section, and noticed all of the nice builds have renders of what they hope to build. What programs do people use to make these kinds of renders?

Hey guys. I really need a 3d model of the silverstone Temjin TJ11. I can't find one online, and not quite sure how I can construct one myself. Does anyone got any advice for me?

Hey guys, I've been using Kingston HyperX blue RAM for quite a few builds now (approx. the last 3 years). I also got 2x 4GB DIMMs for my last build in july. The issue is that these are 1600MHz but only run at 1333 otherwise it keeps crashing etc, and the BIOS automatically chooses 1333MHz. I should mention that these modules were not a kit. I got one of them earlier the year as an upgrade for my former build and the other one with rest of the parts, but I checked model numbers and they were the same. It was the same article from the same merchant so it should have been the same. Now I had a look at my SPDs via CPU-Z: As you can see they actually are not the same. For my next upgrade I had planned to buy these, should work since it's the other channel. Any thoughts about my exisitng RAM? Kind regards, Trek

I think the title pretty much sums it up. Spent a couple minutes in Photoshop and came up with this.

I want to build a model rocket that will launch from a platform lifted up by weather balloons to achieve the highest elevation possible. (Yes I will double and triple check this is legal). I just have 2 questions: 1) How could I track this rocket? 2) How can I figure out how high the rocket went? Thank you, David I'll make sure to upload some of the pictures to the forum.