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The audio issue/crackling doesn't happen all the time but in certain moments, in some games or when watching streams/videos. This is the only instance where I can get it to constantly make the sounds.. I've reinstalled my audio drivers for my DAC and AMP but still getting the same result. I've even went ahead and plug my earbuds straight into the PC and on the motherboard audio I still get the same result. To preference this the only thing that was previously on my build was the audio equipment and headphones so I know they work. SPECS: Audio Equipment: FiiO e10k Headphones: Some Sony Earbuds because my headset broke. =( MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix Z690-F NVME: Crucial P5 Plus 1TB PCIe 4.0 3D NAND PSU: Corsair SF Series, SF750, 750 Watt, SFX, 80+ Platinum Certified CPU: 12900k (default clock) GPU: 2070 Asus Super Turbo RAM: DDR5 32 gb 16x2 4800mhz OS: Windows 11 build 22523

Hi Last year I built my pc (AMD r5 2600, B450 Aorus M, 1660super 6gb, Riotoro 500w, ram I will address later) and it all worked well aside from the HUGE detail that it showed half the ram when it was in dual channel. At the time i was using some VIPER 4x2 kit, if I'm not wrong. I thought it was a RAM issue, but even when I returned the ram for a new kit (Crucial 4x2 kit, 2666MT/s, the old series but with E-Die - the good ones, i don't remember exactly) the problem was still there. I thought, well, I guess I'm not going to use Dual channel so that i could use the full 8GB. That had an very big impact on gaming performances. Sometimes later i bought a new 8x2 crucial kit (the ones with the new heatspreader design) and when i put it all on the motherboard windows detected 24gb, 12gb usable, as i expected. I then decided to open a ticket on both amd (i was starting to think the cpu was the problem) and GIgabyte's customer service. <- this is the mail i sent to AMD and this is their response: I asked Gigabyte the same thing and this is what they said. Kinda speechless: They were useless. Well, i guess i had to live with 12gb when i paid for 24. Then, one day like 4 weeks ago, the pc just straight up wouldn't boot. That was my last straw, and i bought a new motherboard, an MSI X470 gaming plus. When i built the pc back, it all worked! fantastic! except that it is now doing the same goddamned thing as before: Linux says basically the same thing. The only thing i did was plugging in an HHD Yesterday all worked just fine. I happened to need a screenshot of my system info so here it is yesterday and today: and now I don-t know what to do. I reseated the ram, I cleared CMOS by both removing the battery and using the button on the MB. What do you think about this? This is the first time I post here or any forum-type "places", so you will have to pardon whatever "rookie" mistake i did. As i wrote in the AMD mail, English is not my native language, so you'll have to excuse me for grammatical stuff too. Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help me

Hiya all, I just bought a new samsung evo 970 plus 1TB m.2 ssd after installation my pc was having hickups. At first it didnt boot, so I did a quick reset and after that the pc did boot but very slowly. Once I got into windows I formatted my new m.2 drive and tried to restart into the BIOS to turn my xmp profile back on. But I couldnt boot into the BIOS. I tried furiously mashing delete but when I did that my pc just didn't boot at all, no bios, no windows. So I restarted again and let it boot to windows just fine, only a bit slow again. I've tried some fixes like clearing the CMOS and taking out my RAM and putting them back in one by one but non of it seems to have helped. Also while booting my motherboard shows the CPU light, then jumps to the VGA light for a split second and then goes to the BOOT light until the pc boots. These are my specs: Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus x470 gaming 5 wifi CPU: Ryzen 3700x GPU: AMD Radeon 5700xt from ASUS RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200mhz 16gb(2x8gb) PSU: Corsair 650watt

So somehow I accidentally installed plex media server twice on my Linux pc (as you can see in the screenshot, don't mind the third one this is my old server) so only one of them is able to run. Every time that i restart the pc it starts one of the two installations but it's pretty much random. Right now the correct installation is running but I have no clue how I can find where the second one is installed so I can remove it. Thanks in advance

My mouse has been doing this for a while, but lifting the buttons and blowing has always fixed it for a decent length of time, however it has gotten to the point where one of the clicks will let go at some point while being held down 1/3 times. The mouse is out of warrenty because this wasn't an issue during, and I'm just considering buying a new one if I can't fix it.

My first post on the forum, sorry if I'm posting in the wrong place. But I really need some help. So my GPU has been acting weird the past few days. I've been playing lots of Red Dead Redemption 2 these past few weeks, mostly high settings, getting >100fps almost all the time (save for really graphically intense placed like Saint Denis where fps would drop to 80 ish) but around Wednesday, I booted up the game and found I only got 30fps all over the map whereas I used to get ~100/120fps the day before. I checked out Nvidia's performance overlay and it said my GPU was being utilized 99%, but my GPU temps were only ~45/50c and the fan was completely silent (rdr2 used to make my pc run super loud) I go to test out Yakuza 0, another game I've been playing a lot the last few weeks, to make sure it's not an rdr2 issue, and I find I only get 60fps where I used to consistently get ~180fps! Once again the fan was barely spinning. At this point I reckon it might be a janky driver, so I spent the next day after work rolling back to previous drivers, no dice. Next day, I figure it might be an issue with the fan (which I doubted, as the GPU would probably get really hot if it was a mechanical issue with the fans) there isn't anything visibly wrong with the fans, no dust on them, and when I stop them for a little by putting my finger on them, they throttle just fine. I'm at the end of my rope here, and any tips as to what it could be would be greatly, greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading!

Hello guys i just wanted to check out if i can overclock my cpu, i installed msi afterburner then got into the hardware watching section i scrolled down a bit and i saw that the gpu power limit was spiky and gpu+ ram clock speeds were spikey too constantly the clock speed will go to like 2000 then go down to 405 and go back again (as i was writing this my laptop froze and i restarted it) And i have a problem about my laptop some day is the power button has a weird blinking state (like flashing) ok the backstory is it was like 12:AM i was gonna go to sleep after a bios update or something, i shut downed my laptop and i swear i saw blinking light, i didnt mind it that much but in the morning when when i tried to open the laptop power button didnt work it was flashing and the charging light was flashing like the power button i couldnt open it and did some research and found a novo button my laptop as that day i power it on using the novo button. (weird charger) Laptop information: IdeaPad 3 15IML05 81WB00AYTX Processor Intel Core i5-10210U (4C / 8T, 1.6 / 4.2GHz, 6MB) Graphics NVIDIA GeForce MX130 2GB GDDR5 Chipset Intel SoC Platform Memory 4GB Soldered DDR4-2666 + i put a 4gig ram (with the flashing power button) Memory Slots One memory soldered to systemboard, one DDR4 SO-DIMM slot, dual-channel capable Max Memory Up to 12GB (4GB soldered + 8GB SO-DIMM) DDR4-2666 offering (Intel Core models) Storage 256GB SSD M.2 2242 PCIe 3.0x2 NVMe here are some images gpu speed gpu temp limit (im scared to take it my laptop to a repair shop they stole my laptop parts once)

OS - windows 11 home x86 (32-bit) or x64 ? x64 What OS was originaly installed on the system? Windows 10 Is the OS an OEM version (came pre-installed on system) or full retail version (YOU purchased it from a retailer)? Age of system (hardware) Just bought 1 day ago Age of OS installation - have you re-installed the OS? 1 day CPU model : Ryzen 9 5900hs Video Card model : Nvidia 3060 MotherBoard - (if NOT a laptop) Laptop Power Supply - brand & wattage (if laptop, skip this) System Manufacturer : Asus Exact model number (if OEM or laptop) GA401QM-211.ZG14 Laptop or Desktop? Laptop I have an 2021 Asus Zephyrus g14 with a 3060, i was attempting to fix a brightness issue so i read i few reddit forums and seen that on battery power brightness can be washed out by vari brightness being enable in the Radeon app so i installed it and misakenly install some raden GPU drivers and not my bios is say that my Cpu is a Ryzen 9 5900 hs which is correct but the graphic is coming up as Radeon aswell. Can someone help me get this issue corrected? tried unstalling the display adpter driver and the radeon app and reinstalling the Nvidia drivers but its saying that there isn't and Nvidia card dectected.

Hello everyone, My TV decided not to work anymore tonight after I tried to increase the brightness, it shut down on its own and is now stuck in a bootloop. It seems the brightness level has become to high for the one connect box to handle, so when the TV tries to set itself to the maximum brightness value, it draws too much power and it shuts down. Video showing the issue : https://youtu.be/zE6Gm1uGZOA I paid $2000 for this TV only 2.5 years ago and it is already broken... I'm really annoyed, I expect this kind of crap from low end TVs, not high end Samsung ones. I tried another power outlet, tried leaving the one connect box unplugged for one hour, but no luck... Do anyone have any idea how to solve this issue ? I thank you in advance for your help. Regards, Azsde.

Basically what the title says, the other versions work just fine, tried uninstalling and re installing, deleting older versions but nothing seems to work, anmy ideas of what could be the issue?

Hey there folks. Recently bought a 4K display (LG C1 48 to be exact). Since I purchased the display, I have been having pretty sizeable issues playing games. Namely, games keep constantly freezing every 10 seconds or so. Goes down to one frame every 3 seconds, maybe? It's an issue regardless of if the game is fullscreen, windowed or borderless. But the weird thing is, it is fixed if you tab out, and then back into the game. Only for a few more seconds, mind, then it comes back again. This happens across pretty much all of my games, and has only started being an issue since I went 4K. I have a 3090 and 10850K, so I'm pretty sure it's not poor performance. That and when you hold down alt tab and see all your other windows, the game is running as usual. But as soon as I go back to it, it goes back to freezing. Has anyone else had this issue? If so, how did you fix it (besides wiping Windows, which I really don't want to do)? Thanks in advance. (Running Windows 11 btw, though this wasn't an issue before the 4K shift) (Edit to add: Sorry if I have posted this in the wrong place)

Hey! I have a small issue but I wanted to see if it was normal or not. Whenever I boot into windows or wake my PC up, my monitors turn off and on again just once. Its not a big issue but just want to be sure. Thanks and PC specs below R5 3600 RTX 2060 16gb 3200 ram (Teamforce) MSI B450 tomahawk max ssd Moitors: Asus vg248 Asus vs248

Hey there, I just recently purchased this laptop from Newegg the MSI Prestige 14 A10SC. First time using the laptop it worked great, no issue. I then put the laptop into sleep mode, the next morning I wasn't able to turn the laptop on, the power button LED would light up for roughly 7 seconds and then shut off. I since then left the laptop alone for a few hours and then I attempted to turn the laptop back on with success. After I was able to get the laptop running again, I closed the laptop lid and about an hour or so I opened it up and it was giving me the same issue as before. I have since then changed the sleep timer to off, and haven't closed the laptop lid and everything appears to be working just fine. I am a little skeptical about returning because I feel like there is no real issue here. If anyone could help me debug this issue that would be amazing. **EDIT** It appears that the laptop has been running smooth for roughly 12 hours now. I am also starting to realized that it may be charge that is causing it to black screen.

hey everyone i was wondering if anyone might know that my issue is as my computer keeps restarting with no warning no blue screen no error, i have tried testing the ram, the storage, change from air cooler to an aio, and nothing is solving the issue, i am running AMD ryzen 9 3900x, 16 gb corsair vengeance pro rgb 3600mz, msi b550 gaming wifi, pailt geforce 1080, corsair cxf rgb 650w psu, i have also reinstalled windows 10 as well, any help would be appreciated as im at wits end Edit this only happens under load eg playing games or running benchmarks

Dear all, As the title suggest, i am having a CPU over heating issue, whenever i hit my CPU with a big load (like ZPU-z stress test) my CPU will reach ~ 100° in matter of seconds, but also ideal at 35°. General specs: - CPU: Intel 8700K (Currently on stock speeds) - CPU cooler: Corsair H100i v2 - GPU: Asus GTX 1080 Temps screenshots: I have tried: - Resetting BIOS setting to default. - Reapplying thermal past. - Cleaning filters and radiator. The pump seams to be working fine no noise and it shows in ICUE software (2010 ~ 2040 RPM). Can you guys help me identify the issue here?

So today I tried to play some games but no matter what game I tried to play, the game simply crashes after a few minutes. The screen simply freezes while the sounds still play and the crashes without any error messages, returning me to desktop. I have tried multiple games and they all result the same. Ive built this pc myself about a year ago and here are the specs: CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 GPU: MSI RX 570 4gb gaming x RAM: Corsair vengance 2x4 gb 2666mhz Motherboard: Asrock b450m pro4 PSU: Be quiet! system power 9 500W SSD (main drive): Crucial BX500 240 GB CT240BX500SSD HDD: Seagate barracuda 1TB I have tried to update my graphics drivers, didnt work. I tried rolling back to an older diver from 2020, didnt work. I ram diagnostics, nothing. Defragged and checked the drives, nothing. The CPU doesnt go above 65 and the GPU doesnt go above 75, I stress tested the gpu for an hour. I have no idea whats causing this since I have no other problems with the computer. It was working fine a few days back and the only thing I installed on the computer since then is literally just remote desktop. Anya nd all help is appriciated.

I have a Corsair k70 Cherry MX Red that I've been using for 6 years. Recently, the Letter & number keys, including the numpad, stop working all of a sudden for a while, then start working again, seemingly at random times. Every other button works on the keyboard, including when I do stuff like ctrl + C. I've tried uninstalling & reinstalling the drivers, messing with the keyboard settings like sticky keys, filter keys, & the delays, scannow, dism, and other keyboards (which end up doing the same thing so it's not the keyboard's problem). Nothing works except rebooting the whole PC, but that's annoying to have to do every time this happens. What is happening and how can I fix it? My Specs: Windows 10 Pro i7-6850k Strix X99 Mobo 64gb RAM GTX 1080ti 850watt PSU Edit: I noticed that If I click on certain search bars on webpages, it starts working on those but not on the address bar of the browser in windows. If I click & type in the search bar of this site then click back to windows or something else it starts working again. Very weird stuff.

Dear techies, I recently got a new mouse (a Razer viper 8k) and out of the box it had no issues. However after a couple of weeks it stopped working on startup (The mouse doesn't seem to get power, for the LED doesn't work either). I have to unplug and re-plug the mouse for it to work like normal. Switching USB-ports does not prevent the issue from happening again when rebooting. Only my mouse is acting this way. I am running windows 10 pro on a more than capable system. This issue has occurred in the past, but that was on a different machine, when my keyboard was having such issues. If anyone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it.

Hey can anyone help me please, Have had this problem for the while but its not caused issues till now. Occasioanlly my VRAM orange light would turn on when I booted my PC and nothing would show on my screen, didnt think much of it so i turned the switch off at the back turned it on again and it would boot fine. Until today where yet again it did that i repeated the process and it did nothing.Once I finally got through to my PC the windows troubleshoot menu popped up and asked me to restart or go to advanced setting. Chose to restart. It proceded to not restart but continue to show that orange light. Damn, i did what i always did in this senerio turn it on a off again and it worked Horray! now windows is being really really slow. The program i use to 3D model for work cant find any file or drives great. My GDrive is also disconnected. Tried to just shut it down by going start button shut down nothing as if i didnt even click, so i used CTRL ALT DEL go to shut down and it wont turn off nothing just windows blue screen with its damn spinning wheel. This was a build I did in March so everythings pretty new. Im running a: Ryzen 9 3950X ASUS TUF Gaming B550-PLUS Corsair VENGEANCE LPX 32GB ZOTAC GTX 1070 (from an old rig) Corsair RM 750 80 plus Corsair H100i Windows 10 Samsung EVO 970 Any advice would be great as I need it to work. Thanks

So, I'm trying to figure out how to FULLY disable ANY controls at the bottom of my brand new and shiny new old stock Galaxy Note 9. I disabled the navigation bar so the symbols are all gone just poking around in navigation but I've got this tiny little grey bar just jutting out a little bit into the bottom of the screen right in the center portion. It just so happens to cover the area where if I were to swipe up it would trigger the home button and divide the other two controls. How do I disable this visual que? Thanks for any help you choose to give, I know this is silly ;).

Hi! I have three pairs of headphones (Sony MDR-1A which I'm currently using, Sony MDR-10R and some random earphones). I plug them into my computer's headphone jack at the front of my computer case. I'm using the latest version of Windows 10. The problem: After around 5-10 minutes of using the headphones, the audio of whatever is playing (Twitch, YouTube, video games) starts to fade away and after about 10 seconds the sound is completely messed up. It stays like this for a while, sometimes fixing itself for a few seconds but then breaking again. When the audio is messed up, the background audio (background music or sfx) seems to get much louder and the main part of the audio (dialog, for example) is almost inaudible. This happens with all three pairs of headphones and has been happening for many months. After a bit of experimenting I found that this audio glitch happens when the Left/Right balance of the headphones are equal to each other. As in, if the Left Balance is set to 10, and the Right Balance is set to 10, this glitch happens. If one of them is at least slightly offset from the other (For example if L is at 10, R is at 12) this glitch goes away. If they are very offset (L at 10, R at 40), the glitch also goes away. I change the balance by going to Sounds --> Headphones --> Levels --> Balance. This wouldn't be a problem if I could simply set them at a certain offset value and leave them, but depending on the game or audio the LR balance is constantly changing. Drivers: I had Realtek audio (the audio driver for my motherboard) installed on my computer. The issue was present when that was installed, and so I uninstalled it but the audio still ends up breaking. I also tried reinstalling Realtek but the issue persisted. I've uninstalled and reinstalled Realtek at least five times by now so I don't think that's the issue. I've tried plugging my headphones directly into the back of my PC case (straight into the motherboard), but for some reason I can't get any sound to come out no matter which port I plug it into. I'm pretty sure the lime green one is meant for headphones, but like I mentioned it doesn't work (nor any of the others). It doesn't seem like an audio device is detected. When the headphones are plugged into the back, the detected sound devices are: 1. Realtek Digital Output 2. 6 - ASUS VS228 with subtext "AMD High Definition Audio Device". This is my monitor. 3. Realtek Digital Output (Optical) When I plug in the headphones on the front port, the option for "Speakers" with subtext "Realtek High Definition Audio Device" pops up in addition to the previous ones listed and that's the one where I can hear things normally (until they break). I've been trying to fix this issue for a really long time and haven't had any luck, so if anybody has had a similar issue or has any advice it would be greatly appreciated! (Also as a side note, I can plug my headphones into my monitor, but the sound is pretty bad and there's a loud static sound that constantly plays when I do that. It's an issue for another time, but just letting you know that the monitor isn't a great solution) These are my computer specs: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/v4qPwP EDIT: Somebody mentioned to me that an external sound DAC (not really sure what they're called) might fix the issue. Any idea if something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+external+dac&qid=1623878925&sr=8-3) would function as a work-around?

Hello LTT forum! Hope y'all are well. Imma just cut to the chase: Is there a way to tell if my nvme SSD on surface book is on its way out? My surface book 2 (out of warranty, a second hand refurbished unit, first bought in ) is behaving weird lately. It randomly goes into "Automatic Repair" and "Fails to repair device" no matter what. This happens about once a week, sometimes after a bluescreen of "memory management" or "storage exception", sometimes just upon normal restart. The only way to get out of the automatic repair so far, is to recover from a usb drive (I don't have a system backup locally.) Any idea if this could be a SSD issue? Here's some data about my SSD. Would love expert advice! Welcome questions~ Thank you!

So, since part prices are god awful right now, I caved and bought a pre-built Lenovo Legion TR5, then replaced the psu in it. It came with a single stick of 1x8 ddr4 ram, rated to run at 3200 mhz. In the UEFI, it states it is running at 3200 mhz. How-ever once the system launches and I check in speccy, it says it is running at 1539 mhz. I've never had speccy give an incorrect reading before, how-ever I know it's a possibility. The UEFI doesn't have any option to enable XMP, or RAM overclocking of any kind, and as far as I'm aware it's impossible to access the actual BIOS with Lenovo's weird firmware. Is this just an incorrect reading, or is my ram really running at half of it's operating speed?

Recently my monitor decided to stop working properly. It is an Optix g27c4w that I purchased in new condition from walmart. I had no prior issues up until last night and now this monitor makes everything look deepfried.

Hello guys, I'm having an issue about the display of my monitor. This is the issue, when I'm opening my computer it will start smoothly the bios will be shown and I can logging smoothly in my computer. After a few minutes the display will be gone. The monitor is still on because it shows "no signal" or "check signal cable" warning. Sometimes I can still here the audio cues even if there is no display. I already use two monitors(the other one is an old TV with HDMI output) and two HDMI cables. The result are the same, they run smoothly but after a few minutes the display will be gone. Note: I already reinstall the ram, reinstall the peripherals, and give some rest, and yet still the results are the same. Thanks for the help in Advance