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Hi, i own a gaming laptop, hp omen 15, upgraded to 16gb 3200mhz ram, 1660 nvidia. The laptop gets charged with oem 200w charger. Is it normal that the charger gets very hot, i can touch it, but its spiking hot. I game with it plugged in. My laptop reaches about 73c max. Should i remove the internal battery, or is it a way to lower the temp?
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I just switched my cooler from a dying intel 120 aio to a corsair i100 240, the mobo is an HP fmb-0902 from a z400 workstation, and has a xeon w 3540 or 3520. Once I did so, it proceeded to hit 100° within 30 seconds, so I repasted it, and nothing, tried adding washers to the backplate, and being careful to not overdo it, nothing, I over did it, nothing, went back to the same cooler, now that's not helping either. The best I can do is stay in the os long enough to see its on fire and power off. I'm suspecting the vrm could be old and crapping out, thus overvolting the cpu, but that's my only guess I have left. Any guesses would be nice, and if you'd like more info, then I can update my post or something as well. (Other specs. 24gb of 1333mhz by Samsung/SEC chips pc3-12800u-11-11-b1. Evga 3080 ftw3 hybrid lhr. Inatek [yes, actually called inatek] usb3.0 card. Realtek 2.5g lan card. Tplink wifi6e/bluetooth card. Apevia atx-wr680w psu [which I know sucks, and cpuld be the problem even]. HP to atx 24 pin adapter, and a stolen resistor from the old front panel header because hp hates you. Chipset is also an Intel af82801jir I think? It goes by x58 express on HP's website)
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I just bought this desktop it has the following: NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 3060 (12 GB GDDR6 dedicated) with LHR, Display Connectors: HDMI*1, DP*3 512 GB PCIe® NVMe™ M.2 SSD 16 GB DDR4-3200 RAM (2 x 8 GB) 500 W 80 Plus Bronze cerfified power supply mc Realtek Wi-Fi 6 (2x2) and Bluetooth® 5.2 combo (Supporting Gigabit data rate) Windows 11 Home Plus Intel® Core™ i5- 12400 (2.5 GHz up to 4.4 GHz , 18 MB L3 cache, 12 cores ) I was wondering if y'all think there is anything I should also invest in to boost said performance. This is my first desktop and will take any advice. I was thinking of getting a liquid cooler for the CPU.
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i was looking through articles on the internet on how to solve disk usage always at 100% issue in my laptop running Windows 10, i came across an article where the usual ways to solve it were gives(check disk, disable search indexing, etc.), the article suggested to run a software named reiamge repair to check for corrupted files it seemed legit but i just wanted to be sure. Has anyone used it? if yes is it good?
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My desktop computer, once the HP logo is finish, will go to a blank blue screen and just stay that way. The ram has been upgrade/replace, gone thru a full reset and reinstall windows 10. There has to be a way to get past the blank screen and go straight to desktop. Someone please help me... Update: The computer was working before and after I install the ram, which was needed for gaming and was compatible for my system. There was a time when my computer froze while idle if not use for hours, mostly when sleeping and needed to be restarted. I thought that a reset would fix this and reinstalled Windows but it just goes to a blank screen after the HP logo. I am still able to check settings like system restart and able to check bios. I even reinstalled the old ram but still same issue.... HP Pavilion Gaming Desktop 690-00xx Processor AMD Ryzen S 2400G with Radeon Vega Graphics 3.60 GHz Installed RAM 16.0 GB (Was upgrade to 32GB) System Type: 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor
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Hi everyone, my tg01 0023w has the R5 3500 and HP OEM Erica2 motherboard, which is only compatible with Ryzen 3xxx I have a 5600g with Erica6 motherboard for a small upgrade and I'm wondering if I can just swap the motherboards then reinstall all my components without having to wipe the OS. Should I install any drivers before swapping? Any other advice would be really appreciated. Thanks!
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So today when I fired up my computer it worked well for ~5-10 minutes after that the pc looked like it went to sleep mode, after abit it started beeping 5 short ones. I did do a search about this but not with real luck yet on what could work, I have taken off the ram's and putted them on individially & together and on different places but after that at some point it started to flash a red light next to the power button only one is doing that, next to the ram it has an green light, any ideas how to go from here? Especially since I can not really find anything else.
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Hi all- I am looking to replace our Epson XP-830 printer as the thing is literally always out of ink or broken (prints lines through my print). I've tried doing the head clean the alignment all the different troubleshooting tips to try and fix the printer. It fixes it for about 10 prints and then it does it again. I am not sure if this is because we are not using the printer enough or what. The printer probably gets used about once per week, mostly for printing things like eBay labels, but also for the occasional picture. I want to sell this printer we have and replace it with something more reliable and that still has good picture quality. The budget is around $400. I am open to buying printers on eBay if they are normally a $800+ printer, sometimes they can be found on eBay Open Box for around $400. I was looking at the Epson Ecotanks since you can refill the ink with the bottles instead of spending a bazillion dollars on their proprietary cartridges, but I think I hate Epson and dont really want to give them any more business. Is there really a big difference in quality of the print between a color laser printer and an inkjet printer? I've found a lot of conflicting information online. I was thinking about getting a laser printer since people say the quality seems to be better and they seem to be more reliable from my experience. For the most part I am printing in monochrome, but sometimes I need the ability to print in decent quality for some photos. This is why color is a must have. I would also prefer a printer that has the copier on the top for the occasional copies I need to make. For the laser printers on Consumer Reports I read that the HP Color LaserJet Pro MFP M479fdw and the Brother MFC-L3770CDW are both rated well, the brother being half the price however. This is so overwhelming and there are too many variables to take into consideration. I know someone will recommend just getting a thermal printer for my eBay labels, but those things are like $300 and I don't sell nearly enough stuff to justify the cost of that.
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I've been looking for new graphics card for a year and a half, I would always find one for a good price and then plan to save up. I would never execute this process though because I'm lazy and 16. For Christmas however I've been given money to buy myself gift instead of the usual of me telling people what I want for it. I was looking into GPUs once again and I found a HP Nvidia RTX 2070 Super selling for 299.99 on amazon and as well on eBay. I need input to know why these are cheap in the first place and should I buy one?
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The OP is found here: 2013 OP I'm fairly new to the whole "modding my computer" ball game...I am a Mac user which has its pros and cons and I find that I miss Windows at times as that was my first OS. Anyway I have an old dv1000 heirloom from my dad. It has the same poor memory, and CPU as the OP shows in 2013. So my questions are these: If I can upgrade to an Intel Pentium M 780 2.26 GHz 2 MB 533 MHz Socket 479 CPU (which is what the OP states is his preference at the very end), could I then upgrade the RAM to 4GB instead of the 2GB max capacity? Pentium M's can go up to 4GB according to some sources. But I am not sure if this specific CPU can make the computer run at 4GB RAM or if other internals will need to be modified? Also, is it worth upgrading to Windows 7 if I have XP installed? I can't remember which version I have. I lost my charger, buying a new one for this computer so I can't tell you since it's dead. But I do have a Malwarebytes subscription so that is one reason to upgrade. Thank you for your time.
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Hello, my hp pavilion 14 x360 has always been unreliable when it comes to performance, but lately i've started investigating and I really can't find an answer for that. I'll refer to Rocket League as it's the game i play the most. With only the game open, it gets 110-120fps stable and easily on 1080p, but as soon as something else is running (like discord or spotify), the performance is really capped, with stuttering as low as 20fps, but generally stable around 50 to 80. I've always thought it was the MX250 gpu's fault, but I realized that when underperforming, the gpu starts running at 30 to 60%, instead of the 100% it gets when performing fully. It doesn't seem to be a RAM problem, as the 16gb are far from full. The cpu, instead, caps it's performance heavily, with extremely low usage and clock speed (as low as 0.5ghz, while under lighter load it stays usually between 2.5 and 3.5). Checking out windows' built in resource monitor (resmon) you can see that the max speed is much lower under load, as if it was throttling, but at the same time, checking HWMonitor, the temps are around 70C, or in general lower that it's supposed ceiling, and i don't think it's a power usage problem, as the cpu is perfectly capable of running at it's max speed, while respecting it's TDP. Obviously this problem applies to a degree to any usage of the PC, not just gaming, as it starts struggling at quite random times (even opening a single app like discord, or the file manager) sometimes it seems like the CPU doesn't understand when to be ready lol (idk what im talking about clearly). Sometimes i get to play somewhat smoothly even with discord open, if i wait a couple of minutes it seems like the cpu understands how to manage the load and it goes of fine, but sometimes it doesn't. I think the solution might be undervolting, but I have no idea why, because i can't understand the problem, and sadly voltage control is locked on this machine and i can't tweak any of that. I can't really find similar threads online, i'll provide more data if someone asks and knows where to look, because i really don't know what to look for except what i've posted (these are some , thanks in advance. resource monitor when switching to a heavier load, the cpu heeeavily throttles: HWMonitor under load, some of these values (VID, core usages) randomly swing between max and min, idk
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Hello to anyone reading this, I just had an inquiry on my mind for quite some time that I want answered. As of not long ago, in order to save some money, I bought a used prebuilt HP (specifically the HP ProDesk 600 G4 MT) alongside a GPU for entry level rendering and more 3D modeling as prior, 3D modeling on my laptop for over one a half year was just not cutting it. Anyway, I wanted to know if the motherboard within the computer would be compatible with an ATX standard case, and if there will be any modification needed VIA buying an addon for said case. I thought about doing it because I wanted to futureproof my setup a little further. Instead of having to buy a new case along the road, I can buy it now and use it, while buying more replacement parts down the road. It would also help because I can install a ATX standard PSU, both parts, at least based on what people have told me, not needing nearly as much replacement over the years. Can anyone provide further info on this topic? Thanks for reading!
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NOTE: i recently bought black ink refill (laser refill idk) form a 3rd party seller because im not paying HP 50$ to be ripped off i have used a 3rd party ink refill before this (new one is from a different seller) but i really hope that isnt the case. I have a HP LaserJet M102a (non wireless) printer and its being a naughty printer. Tried to print some files on PC, windows recognizes there is a printer, windows print queue sends the print job to the printer, but it immediately errors out the printer doesn't make any attempt to print either. i have HP Smart, but it does not detect the printer is there at ALL, windows does but not HP's own app. Same thing happened a few weeks ago (i dont print very often) and when i switched to my laptop it printed fine I tried to print from my laptop this time and my laptop is having the same issue. Hp smart doesnt detect but windows does. I went to HP's own site to downlaod any drivers i might need or missed. downloaded it and i get this error from the installer In windows update there is this HP USB driver that keeps erroring and wont download So this driver is either already installed or less compatible basically making it moot in my problem. It doesn't strictly seem to be a software issue since windows should have completed the print anyways. The only thing i can think of is maybe the cable but if so the printer wouldnt be detected by windows at all in the first place so im at a complete loss at wtf is going on Any help and advice is much appreciated
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Budget (including currency): Up to $300; <$200 Ideal Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: League of Legends, Left For Dead 2, GBA/DS ROMS & Fan Made Pokemon Games, Video Streaming & Watching DVDs Other details: Low End Gaming/Media PC @ 1080p low/medium for non AAA titles. *CURRENTLY IN PC: Processor: i5-7500 RAM: 1x8GB DDR4 @2400Mhz Graphics: Integrated Graphics PSU: 180W (Proprietary) Storage: 3.5" 500GB HDD WiFi: None (Should've came with it, but there is none installed at the moment) DVD Drive: Slim RW *IDEAL BUILD: Processor: i5-7500 (i7-7700 if I can fit in budget, but should be fine as is) RAM: 2x8GB DDR4 @2400Mhz Graphics: GTX 1650 Low Profile PSU: 180W (Proprietary) (Can't find suitable replacements) Storage: 500GB-1TB M.2 SSD WiFi: AX210 WiFi 6E Card DVD Drive: Slim RW *CONCERNS: -WIth the power supply rated for 180W, I'm concerned that I will exceed its power limit. My calculations have me at about 190W, I won't be able to run it. I've that a similar HP product (the 800 G3 SFF) could come w/ a 1050Ti which uses similar power draw @ 75W worked AND also used a 180W PSU. I want to keep the DVD Drive operable if possible as I use one in my main PC and personally like that flexibility. I have thought about installing a GT 1030 instead since it only uses 30W, but isn't my preferred as it won't be an adequate gamer. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I got this from a friend who was just looking to get rid of it and I wanna have a backup PC that I can have in my living room that's an "adequate" gaming PC for the price.
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Hello, I have a HP ProBook G7.But today I tried to upgrade it from one stick of 8 GB RAM (sk Hynix 2400)to 2 sticks of 4 GB RAM but it is having a problem. What can I do about it? The sticks are from companies (transcend3200 and Samsung2400)and the speeds are different. No answers from hp forum or customer support. Sorry for the bad video quality. 69027560309__1A2485DD-A7F4-47C9-8784-1A99C865DC58.MOV
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Hi, I'm trying to install windows 10 in a old hp laptop. When i select the flash drive from the boot menu. All I get is a black screen. Wt shd I do ?
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A friend of mine has an "HP TG01-2816nd" prebuilt and we suspect that his cpu is broken this cpu is a ryzen 5 5600G, but i have a ryzen 5 3600 laying around. Now the question, would the BIOS and (custom) B550 motherboard from HP (Those fuckers cant use regular parts) be backwards compatible to use the 3rd gen ryzen? Thanks in advance
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One of my HDD is not working. It is a 500 GB laptop hdd with Windows 10 pro running, that came with with HP Pavilion G6, used with 8 Gb RAM and Core i3 3rd Gen 1.88Ghz. Recently, that device showed a Display problem and I gave it for a repair. Currently, just wanted to switch to an old Compaq presario v3000 (which was in my house for a while) works perfect with windows 7 ultimate on Intel Centrino Duo with maximum 4 GB ram being, 320Gb hdd used. I want to use this Compaq laptop with my 500 GB hdd, but the hdd is not being found in the boot menu or the bios. What went wrong here?
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Hey guys and girls hopefully one of you can help me out, im upgrading my cpu in my HP Omen 25L which means upgrading my cooler. It’s currently has an AMD processor but the HP motherboard has spacing for an intel mounting bracket. My question is if I use the intel mounting method for my new cooler will it sit properly on the processor in an AM4 socket?
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HI. I have a HP 280 Pro G3 MT. Its power supply died and I am NOT looking forward to purchasing a replacement power supply from HP. Now here's my question. My board has three 4 pin connectors and one 7 pin connector. Can I use a normal PSU to power it? with an adapter for the 7 pin connector? Also does all 4 pin connectors supply 12V?
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- proprietary psu
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I currently have a prebuilt I bought back in 2018 when I first wanted to get into pc gaming, I was trying to see if at this point am I better off upgrading parts or just built a new pc I Currently Have This Setup Cpu- i7-8700 Gpu- NVIDIA GTX 1060 Motherboard- 875-0014 Z370 LGA1151 MATX EDORAS MOTHERBOARD L23867-001 Ps-500W Monitor- 60Hz 1080p When I first bought my prebuilt I didn’t know anything about pc’s so I just really bought the first prebuilt I pretty much seen Here a link to the prebuilt for more details- https://www.bestbuy.com/site/omen-by-hp-obelisk-gaming-desktop-intel-core-i7-8700-16gb-memory-nvidia-gtx-1060-3gb-1tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-hp-finish-in-shadow-black/6285800.p?skuId=6285800 i want to upgrade this pc because of course it would be the cheapest option but at the same time it being a prebuilt I know upgrades are limited, I want to also future proof this but I see that a lot of these parts limit each other for example I want to throw in a 3080ti for the to future proof the GPU but it will bottle neck my current CPU and upgrading the cpu is only available to a i9-9700 but that will also bottle neck apparently according to the research I’ve done, so I would need a motherboard upgrade to even upgrade my cpu to even be compatible with the you that I want to run, Well the question is if I upgraded parts on my prebuilt what should I upgrade and is it worth it truly looking into the future or should I just make the jump to upgrade my whole setup, if I do upgrade my setup I think I’m set at gaming at 166Hz at 1440P for the upgrade, I just would need help picking other parts to stay in budget but still be able to run what I want comfortably, I think I’m set on running the 3080 ti so I would need a setup built around that GPU for under $2,000 USD i would gladly take any recommendations maybe I don’t need the 3080 and could make it even cheaper and it still run the setting I want comfortably, I’m still learning so sorry if I said anything dumb or that just doesn't make sense
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So i have Hp Omen 15 2020 laptop and recently the screen goes black randomly every other day and then i have to restart the laptop manually and its fixed. Some people said its because of gpu drivers So, i used DDU in safe mood to uninstall the drivers and en reinstalled both AMD and Nvidia drivers , turned off the windows updates and all auto updats but still it happened again. Does anyone know what might be the issue? Could it be hardware problem?
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Hello, I was trying to install pop OS but it just said that the OS installer had an invalid signature. I found out that I had to turn off secure boot in my hp bios but for some reason I just can't enter my bios. Is there any way to install a new bios version with a usb stick? Any help would be appreciated.
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I have an HP Spectre x360 with an i7 and a 1650 ti that I got about a year and a half ago. It has been working great until two nights ago when I spilled water on it while using it. I heard it sizzle inside and shut off before I could power it down. After it had some time to dry out I tried turning it on and initially got a message that said a fan wasn't working and it turned itself back off. After a little research, I turned it on again, got the same error message but told the computer to boot anyways. I watched the cpu and gpu temperatures and they seemed fine, and the fans kicked on like normal while using it. Since then, the fan error message has stopped showing up when I turn it on and it boots like normal. Now, the computer seems to run normally except that it won't turn on and immediately shuts off if it is not plugged into the AC adapter. The battery says it's at 100% when it's on, and I've ran all of the system diagnostics that I can find on the computer and the only thing it returns is an error for the battery (not that it's failed, but that it can't run the diagnostic properly). Along with that, I've seen a substantial drop in performance while playing games (more than a 50% drop in fps.) Sorry if that is a lot of unnecessary information, but I am just wondering if it would be worthwhile to replace my battery for a couple hundred dollars (will that affect the laptops performance while playing games when the laptop is plugged in?) Or should I just shell out some more money and replace my laptop. Any advice is appreciated.