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So, satisfy my curiosity.. What are your scores like for a 1080ti with NO overclock in firestrike in 3d mark.. and what clock speed is 3dmark reporting. I'm curious if my overclocked 1080 matches a 1080ti without an OC. My score is just under 18,000 and I get a clock speed of 2.088 with a semi-mild overclock. I'm actually more interested in the clock speeds since the CPU will effect the overall score.

Hello, I thought I'd log my build as it has been such a painstakingly difficult process! It isn't completed yet, I still need to throw in a 1080tI and complete two lines of tubing but I can finally see the end... and it will be so rewarding when I get there! Anyway. I used to have a MATX Bitfenix Aegis case in which I had an I5-4690K paired with a 1070 at first and then a 1080Ti. The PC had a pretty neat dual radiator cooling system paired with a whole in 1 pump. It was a flexible tubing build with constant white lighting from a total of 9 Coolermaster 120mm and 140mm fans. Cooling was exceptional and it was a positive pressure build so dust was never an issue despite being in one heck of a dusty city (Melbourne). I felt the urge to upgrade the CPU after 5 years of trustworthy performance and sold the whole build. I owned a Razer blade 2016 for a while and the performance loss from the external GPU was just depressing so after about a year of ownership (much of it concurrent with that of my desktop), I sold it to another adventurous soul. So. I decided to build a more compact watercooled desktop that would pack a punch and look slick. I started by looking at a few cases and narrowed it down to two - The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini ITX and the Fractal Design Define Nano S. I wanted a small build with great watercooling options. The Fractal case won out because it made no sense to me that the Phanteks case enabled top mounting a 280mm rad without efficient airflow (seriously!). I still had my 1080Ti (FE) so I proceeded with the selection of the other components: I7 7700K ASUS ROG Strix 270i G.Skill Trident Z RGB F4-3200C16D-16GTZR 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 1TB SSD Thermaltake Riing Plus 12 RGB Premium Edition Fan 3pk Phanteks F140MP Premium PWM 140mm Radiator Fan Black/White EK CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual Radiator EK CoolStream CE 280 Dual Radiator EK RES X3 110 Reservoir EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump Plexi EK FB ASUS Z270I Strix RGB Monoblock Nickel EK Full Cover EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate - Black & EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC1080 GTX Ti - Nickel Upon receiving all this great kit, excited as I was, and having removed/assembled GPU waterblocks tens of times before, I proceeded to installing the waterblock on the 1080 Ti and 4 resistors later, I was done... Not kidding. In one foul swoop I destroyed my beautiful GPU. I didn't cry or get angry (surprisingly). I stood up, grabbed my keys and went for a long stroll. Over the next few days, I tried myself at welding, baking GPUs etc. On the bright side, between experiments I assembled the rig - and it was looking great. I had purchased 10mm hard tubing by Alphacool which is UV reactive and received OCcool fittings from Germany, including two 90 degree and two 45 degree fittings. I then tried myself at bending tubing. Overcooked the first two which bubbled up like a cane toad's skin and then undercooked the next few which just didn't look right. A few meters of tubing later (literally) I had one or two good(ish) bends. I assembled the lot, leak test - it leaked... Redid a bend, leak test - it held up. Excited, I connected the power to the CPU, GPU and mobo, powered up the beast and POOF! A puff of smoke, a flash and a dead GPU (confirmed dead at this point I guess...). At that point in time I made two decisions: 1. Bends, although I was convinced they had merit my looking at various videos, I would avoid, using 90 degree fittings instead. 2. I wouldn't bother building my righ absent a GPU. So, time passed (like a month or more) and time is an amateur modder's worst enemy. I decided I would upgrade the potential of my build from great to epic, and so I ordered UV LEDs and UV die (clear) for my build. And you know what? It looks super cool! Now a few details I skipped: The motherboard supports ASUS Aura (RBG lighting) but has only one set of RGB connectors The motherboard has no USB2.0 connector (3.0 only) The Thermaltake fan hub (to control the lights & speed) requires a 2.0 mobo connector The Phanteks fan connectors are different to Thermaltake's and are therefore not compatible with the fan "hub" The solutions were simple: USB 3.0 to USB2.0 Mobo adapter Corsair Commander controller fan hub allowing redirection of the USB2.0 signal to the Termaltake fan hub. Therefore we have: Mobo 3.0 connector > 3.0 to 2.0 adapter > Corsair Commander > Thermaltake hub With the two 140mm Phantek fans connected to the Corsair Commander and the three 120mm RGB fans connected to the Thermaltake hub. Now I am still not sure whether or not I'll be able to control the fan speed or lighting due to the use of an adapter - I am hoping I can but yet TBD. I could have opted for two 140mm Thermaltake RGB fans but I really like the muted appearance of the Phanteks combined with their "amazing" performance (according to other threads). So the status quo is: The 280mm and 240mm radiators fit in the case - it's snug, but it works. I have the 280mm rad at the front with two 140mm fans in pull configuration inside the case and the 240mm rad at the top, as close as possible to the window to make room for the RAM sticks, supported by two 120mm fans in push config. I also have a 120mm fan at the rear of the case pushing hot air out of the case - hesitant to rotate it so it pulls cool air in as I would need a filter and at this point in time cannot be bothered. I have hard line tubing linking the CPU to the 240mm top rad, the top rad dripping into the reservoir, the reservoir down into the pump, pump into the 280mm front rad. Once I get the GPU I will route the front rad to the GPU and then the GPU to the CPU and we can call it a build. The tubing from the res to the pump is vertical and would go along the contour of the GPU. I think despite being tight that it will fit. If it doesn't, I can use the two little 1/4 extenders that came with the res to push the loop closer to the window and clear the GPU - nice to have a plan for once... I prefer the look without bends - the black corner fittings blend well with the build. The positioning of the UV strips was difficult - initially I hat 80cm of strips going around the window and lighting it all very nicely. But like everything, good things never last and upon installing the two top fans, I realised I no longer had enough clearance. Now I have two separate strips, one hidden behind the top rad and facing down and the second 60cm strip along the bottom and front edges of the window. Happy for now but with two little worries: Will I be able to control fan speed and lighting through the USB3.0 to USB2.0 adapter? I have three different RGB lighting zones: The motherboard with the CPU cooler and the RAM The two RGB lighting strips The three 120mm fans (top x 2 and rear x 1) Ideally I would like points 1 and 2 above to be linked and 3 to only run when temps exceed X (party mode!). To do that, I need to configure the RGB cabling differently (likely mobo RGB header to split connector which goes to the 2 strips and connecting the CPU RGB connector to the end of one of the 2 strips). Next update will be when I get the GPU and finalise the build - I hope this is helpful to others looking at building a watercooled system in the Fractal Design Define Nano S. Thanks for reading! Mike

Heyo! I'm looking to get myself an EK A240G for my build and I'm thinking of getting a 1080TI Founder's edition to save on cost (versus buying from AIB's(?)). Is overclocking a 1080TI FE gonna yield the same or close to AIB manufacturer cards in terms of clock speed etc?

Hey guys! I think I have a problem. I built my new flagship gaming build a few months ago, and I've been having lower than expected performance when comparing to GTX 1080ti reviews... Here's my complete part list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/Dashrendar2507/saved/sD4jXL. Notice the 860w platinum PSU and 3200mhz RAM. Also, my monitor is a Samsung CF791, 3440x1440 100hz Freesync. I was looking at all the 3440x1440 benchmarks and reviews I could find, coupled with a GTX 1080ti. Even better if it was with a Ryzen CPU, but from what I've seen the CPU shouldn't make much of a difference at that resolution. Anyways, I really don't seem to be getting the same performance as what's expected from that card. in The Witcher 3, I have to lower the settings to medium-high (everything HairWorks disabled) to get ~80fps, and that's only outside: cities are a no-go, averaging 60fps, often less. Reviews run that game maxed out, and 3440x1440 gives almost 100fps. Same for The Division (DX12 cripples my FPS, but even DX11 is rough at medium settings, outside), and Rise of The Tomb Raider. Mass Effect Andromeda is particularly tough, but I think that game doesn't have the best track record for optimization. Crysis 3 also has to be downgraded quite a bit. For now, the only recent AAA game I'm comfortably running maxed out is Doom (2017, of course). BF1 is okay, too. I'd say ~80, mostly at High, with some Ultra and Medium. Star Wars Battlefront 2 Beta runs mostly 100fps maxed out, too. I'm sitting at 3.6ghz right now on the stock cooler because I'm gathering the money for a custom EK water loop. In the meantimes, should I push my tiny overclock farther on stock cooling? One important thing, my CPU is never maxed out when playing games, so CPU bottlenecking is pretty much out of the question. Sorry for not giving metrics right now, but ask and you shall receive. I'm just really bummed out that I have to drop the settings way down, especially when I compare to benchmarks and reviews. I know Ryzen CPUs are underwhelming at 1080p, but at 3440x1440 with 3200mhz memory, I would have thought the difference would be minimal. Do you guys have suggestions? Thanks a bunch!

So I feel like having only one of these and wanting to sell one of them. Both have their benefits and disadvantages (see specs below), but I'm having a hard time figuring out which one to keep. My main criteria is which one is more future-proof but they both seem competent. What's everyone's thoughts? Laptop specs (ASUS ROG Scar II GL504GV): -144Hz 1080p screen -RTX 2060 -32GB DDR4 2666MHz -Intel Core i7 8750H -M.2 512GB SSD Desktop specs: -60Hz 4K display (it stays/goes with the desktop) -MSi GTX 1080 Ti -32GB DDR4 2400MHz -Intel Core i7 6850K -MSi X99A GODLIKE Gaming Carbon -Intel 750 400GB PCI-E SSD

Dear LTT comunity. First my PSU died, changed to another platinum AXi 860 corsair, previously NZXT fractal NEWTON r3. My GPU started to crash more ofter (was not crashing at all from the box), nowadays, the GPU crashes when on base clock. I have to keep it undreclocked core -60, memory -140 to prevent from crashing. Still thinking what to do to prevent RMA.

PSU : Corsair VS450 I checked on pcpartpicker and listed all my specs down. It said that my system requires 410W to work but my psu is only 450W. Can my system still run or do I need to buy a new psu with more watts?

Hey folks, I was playing a video game (Monster Hunter World, played it for the past few days) when suddenly both monitors went black. There was still sound. Rebooted my PC, still black screens even during BIOS. But I could still log into my windows account and listen to Spotify, but with no display. GPU fans are not spinning. PC does not detect the GPU (as far as i can tell, maybe i overlooked smth) Been using this PC for 1.5 years with no issues. (Windows 10 Home, Version 1809) GPU: Nvidia Geforce GTX 1080 Ti Mobo: Asus Prime Z370-P PSU: Sharkoon WPM600 bronze CPU: Intel core i7-8700k 3.70GHz 16 GB RAM First Monitor 4k 60Hz, second monitor 1080p 60Hz - both Samsung Currently using the on board graphic. I am inexperienced at troubleshooting, so if I forgot some information or any steps please let me know. I would appreciate any help! -Xtremremix Edit: Second PCI slot doesn't have enough space. Images: are those pins(right word?) normal?

So I found this deal for a pretty sick 1080Ti card (Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti) for around $450, what I'm concerned about is that my pc currently has an i5 4590, which may bottleneck a powerful GPU as the 1080Ti, but the thing is can I at least hit 60FPS at 1080p with this card or will that be an issue as well?

Hello, I've got a Palit Jetstream GTX 1080ti that isn't working. When plugged in the card powers up fans spin and the PC posts; the monitor turns on but its just a black image. However when the card is plugged in as a second card and a working graphics card is used to get a display, the card is detected by windows and shows up in device monitor with a error, and GPU-Z. However in GPU-Z all the info is correct but the bios version is unknown, the memory type is unknown and the GPU clock is 0MHz (see photos). I've downloaded every palit 1080ti bios file from the techpower up website and flashed them to the card using NVflash, however no matter the bios its the same results. I've tried the palit jetstream, gamerock, superjetstream and even the 1080ti founders edition bios. None will work. I was wondering if anyone with a jetstream 1080ti could upload their bios version for me to download, or if anyone had any other ideas on how to fix it? Thanks in advance!

First off I already have a 1080ti FTW3, and a friend of mine who is building a PC offered me $700 for it, which is a bit over what they're going for on ebay for my model. It's my baby and I did pay MSRP for it so I wouldn't be taking a hit at all really. So I was thinking I could take that $700 from the sale and put it towards a 2080ti more than likely the FTW3 model which is $1300 to $1400 MSRP. I've worked it out to just over $600 out of my pocket plus the $700 I get from my 1080ti. The only thing is that I was wanting to wait at least two more years or until Navi releases to see what I wanted to do for a GPU upgrade, I basically want to know what others would do with this opportunity. If I should wait or just say F it and sell it and go for a 2080ti. I should also say I play on a 165hz 2560x1440p gsync monitor.

Hi I currently plan to upgrade my GTX 970. I'm considering 1070ti, and 1080ti. I have a monitor that is 1080p 144hz. I know some people say 1080ti is too much. but having max settings at a constant 144hz is not too much for me. but I want to know which is best for me price wise and also performance wise. I have 16gb DD3 ram 1600MHz Also, i'm planning on buying a used gpu because I can't afford a brand new one.

Not sure if this is the right discussion channel or not but this is what has been bugging me..... i am running a new i7 8700 with 16gb ram and a GTX 1080 ti. I have a monitor that runs 144 htz Love his machine and am trying to get into streaming a little more. I am getting a very bad lag in my stream and have no issues with gameplay. When I am running current games I am still seeing a huge gpu pull. I see very little pull when trying to stream through cpu. I would like to run the system at the highest it can go without over cloacking (fear of over heating). I have either been looking into getting a second tower to help in streaming or adding a second 1080 ti (be almost the same price for a second comp). I am also concerned about over heating with adding a second gpu through sli. Anytips or suggestions on if adding a second gpu would be good or if I should just go and buy a second computer? Thanks!

It could be just me but I personally don't really like the way the EVGA RTX cards look, I have an EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW3 and absolutely love it, the design is really cool to look at and in my opinion one of the best out there. But these RTX cards just look old to me. The smokey clear plastic is the worst part, if it were a solid color I don't think I'd mind too much but I can't really explain it just bothers me how they look. I was really looking forward to the new FTW3 card and man I feel disappointed. And yes by design I mean the "aesthetic" of the card.

So to make a long story short, I RMA my card already and got it back not working. The reason why I RMA my card was because whenever I go into games my screen will glitch out and go black and sometimes come back on depending on what's happening on screen at the time. I have a i7 8700k Asus ROG Strix-H Mobo. Everything is running Stock. I have a Geforce GTX 1080ti gigabyte Gaming OC Black 11G Gigabyte stated they couldn't find anything wrong with the card and sent it back. I filled out their paper work showing what I had for my system and explain my issue. My card works just find when turning on the computer and just using google. But when I get into games My Screen will just go black randomly and sometimes my computer will just Reset for no reason. I tested old drivers and New drivers I put the card in a completely different computer and still the same thing. I have no where else to turn to and I am seeking some help.

UPDATE: I have decided against buying a new 2080 Super. I am scouting around for a used 1080 Ti and hoping that I manage to snag the €330 Strix Gaming OC that I happened to find. I'm planning to build a PC with a custom CPU+GPU loop over the next few months: While I can afford a 2080 S, I'm wondering if a 1080 Ti would be "good enough" for my needs. I don't foresee myself needing / using any ray tracing applications (unless those cores have any performance benefits in VR games). I believe that with my current (albeit laptop-restricted) usage patterns, I'm not sure how far I'll be able to push a decent GPU. I've literally never used anything more powerful than a GTX 965M (the chip my current MSI GE62-2QE has) so I have no idea what to expect. Used 1080 Ti-s range between €450 (Gigabyte Aorus) and €750 (Asus ROG Strix) out here while the cheapest new 2080 S costs €740 (Asus Dual Evo OC). I can ask a colleague to ferry a 2080S from USA to save about €100 or so (I don't know where to look for second hand 1080 Ti-s in USA). Opinions? Use case:

My Gtx 1080ti Aorus (not extreme edition) was hitting 87c while gaming. It usually only hit 74c. The card is not OC, room temps were 24c and the fan speed is set to 70%. To my conclusion it had to be thermal paste issues and so upon opening up the gpu a component fell off the pcb board. I don't know what that piece is called but is there any way to put it back on???

Hi, why is the GTX 1080Ti which has basically the same specs as an RTX 2080Ti Fail at Ray-Tracing? I know that the Different GPU Architecture plays a Roll in Preformance over all. GTX 1080Ti - Pascal RTX 2080Ti - Turring

I have been having issues rendering footage using Adobe Premiere Pro on Windows 10 build 1809. I suspect that the problem is being caused by my graphics card being identified as installed in PCIe slot 4 when it is actually installed in PCIe slot 1. The card works just fine for gaming, it is only not working for Premiere Pro hardware encoding, and the software encoding is producing video files that are full of errors and weird artifacts. In the photos I attached you can see that the graphics card is identified as being installed in PCI slot 4, but is actually installed in slot 1. I also included a photo of the motherboard diagram from my manual. To compare this I included a photo of my wifi card. Device manager identifies the wifi card as being installed in the correct slot, but misidentifies the graphics card. I have tried uninstalling and re-installing the graphics card, but it won't identify the correct PCI slot. I did not try disabling it because I'm afraid it might cause more problems than I already have. I recently installed a new processor and I had some issues at first, so to troubleshoot I did have the graphics card installed in PCI slot 4. I believe that is the cause of this problem, but how can I get it switched back to slot 1? Thanks in advance, Derek PC info: ASUS x99-e-10G WS i7-6950x 64gb RAM GTX 1080Ti

Hey all, I am between these two cards. People say to get used GTX 1080ti for half the price of RTX 2080 but where I live I cannot get this offer and also would not buy used GPU. I run 2560 x 1440 at 144hz screen. So now I want to get your advice on whether to get a brand new GTX 1080ti or go for RTX 2080. The price difference is roughly $136 - $180 for example MSI RTX 2080 VENTUS 8GB is $136 more than 1080ti. In tests RTX is ~8% faster at 1440p which I assume is negligible. So is the price increase really worth it? To get the latest tech even though I cannot use any of the new features and who knows how they turn out to be useleful in the future. Thnaks all for your input.

Hello guys, I have a little problem and I cant find anything on how to fix this issue. I've recently upgraded from RX480 to a 1080Ti since I needed a card with CUDA cores for rendering. I am also using a FreeSync monitor that is why I left the RX480 in there. Both cards are working, my rendering program detects the CUDA card and works great when it comes to rendering. ...But when it comes to games only the RX480 seems to be doing all the work. In one of Linus's videos he shows that you need to set which card is being used by the program, to either a "Power saving GPU" or "High performance GPU" This is where my problem occurs. For both options it shows the same RX480 GPU. How do i fix this? Drivers are fine...GPU-Z and sistem detects both cards...? Thanks V

Hey, I know that as long as the interface is common (PCIe) there shouldn't be any problems technicality-wise but the actual hardware dimensions and ill-fitting card design might be possible issues. I've seen cases on reddit where 1080Ti wouldn't fit in the Z370 Gaming 7 (albeit that card was Gigabyte and the one I'm getting is the MSI Gaming X) because of a badly designed bracket that had to be sent back for fixing. I want to ensure there are no such issues (this, or any other compatibility issue with the motherboard) before I actually do the purchasing of the new GPU. So, anything I should know before buying a MSI GTX 1080Ti Gaming X meant to go with the MSI Z97 Gaming 7 mobo? The fact that both components are from the same company is reassuring but I'd rather be safe than sorry, considering the Motherboard is a considerably older piece of hardware than the GPU. Just for info, my 1080Ti would be running together with a i7-4790k (watercooled by H80i), powered by a Corsair RM850x.

Will I get microstuttering or something similar if i paired Ryzen 5 2600X (or OC 2600) with RTX 2080 or GTX 1080Ti on FullHD with 144 Hz monitor? I know, i will get some bottleneck from processor, but this will maybe fix some new games with better (more difficult on graphics) graphics.

To start off, I know very little about building PCs. I have never built a PC and I don't know anyone that has ever built a PC. But I have done some research, and I know the basic parts that go in a PC. I want to build a PC for gaming(both flat and VR), and I want to use the GTX 1080Ti with the Intel Core i7 7700(non-k) as well as 16GB of RAM. Also, I am not planning on overclocking anything. 1. Is the 7700 good enough not to bottleneck the 1080Ti? 2. Does RAM speed and voltage have to match the CPU? 3. What is a good motherboard for this configuration? As far as I understand you don't have to spend a lot on a motherboard, but it's still very hard to choose one. 4. Case? 5. Do all of Intel's processors come with a CPU cooler? 6. According to this video: (The octagon of compatibility) The CPU and RAM has no correlation, but yet on intel's website(https://ark.intel.com/products/97128/Intel-Core-i7-7700-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4-20-GHz-)it says that it only supports DDR4 RAM. What is correct? PS: I live in Europe(prizes) and not close to any physical stores that sell PC parts. Also, at the moment, I don't know my budget. Thanks in advance for all replies!

I'm wondering if I can buy these two water blocks for their respective cards and run them SLI. I have made 1 custom loop before and I have these GPUs laying around, but i have no clue if the tubing lines up. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-aorus-rgb-nickel https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-tf6-acetal-nickel thanks for any insight!