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Hi i have a Build with iCue and Asus Strix Z690-A Gamming D4,and EVGA GPU RTX-3070 TI FTW3 I just discovered the ARGB Header from the GPU and my question is about that Header ,What Would happen if a I conect the header to one Mobo ARGB Header? Would I able to control the GPU 's RGB via Armoury Create or I would burn something?

So for context, a week ago I woke up to my 1070 being completely dead in the water (no fans on boot, no display, no detection). I tried it in multiple different computers, and the result was the same. I believe its something with the power management (as I could plug the fan shroud into another 1070 pcb and it would work just fine), but I do not know. Are there any places in Toronto that can potentially repair it? (I have no warranty as it was bought in 2016)

So like most if not all higher end 30-series GPUs my VRAM temperature on the RTX 3090 FTW3 Hybrid get really high and I have been wondering is there any options for me with this card to install a active cooling backplate without have to completely removing the already installed AIO/Hybrid on the card?

I recently spilled some clear corsair XL5 coolant on the back of my EVGA 3080 Ti FTW3 HC. There was no power in the PC, the PSU was switched off and unplugged when this happened. I drained my reservoir and took off the tubes above my CPU. I quickly realized and took it out to dry the backplate. This backplate is like a cheese grater, it has holes everywhere and the liquid leaked through to the PCB. I dried it up using a hair dryer, and after I put a drop or two of 91% alcohol and then dried the alcohol shortly thereafter. I made sure it was completely dried out before I put in the PC to use it. It works completely fine, no fps dips, no weird smells, no artifacts, it is a completely fine card. But I then found out that the coolant even though it had been dried up, left a weird streak of the liquid path on the back PCB under the backplate where the liquid has spilled through. This dry streak of non existent liquid is pissing me off even though everything is fine, I think that because the coolant was thick, it left the streak. Should I worry about corrosion or rust? completely dry, but did leave a layer on the PCB. P.S: I would've unscrewed the Backplate to properly clean it up with 91% alcohol and a swab, but EVGA left a "friendly" warranty sticker on one of the backplate screws.

A power supply that lacks the fan stop function , if the fan decides to just go bad (maybe the next day maybe 10 years later) I have heard videos of grinding and rattling noises and they were always consistent. They didnt go away wether if its idle or under load (some times both) My question is : IS the rattling noise always consistent? Or can it just happen for like a split second or like 2 seconds then go away for days then repeat after a week or two? It was never consistent according to what my friend described about his cooler master 850W bronze V2. Any ideas?

Hello, So I think there may be an issue with the HDMI port on my GPU. Whenever I first got it and installed it (Seemingly by a notification miracle...) I was using a 55" Vizio tv off to the side occasionally that was a few years old. I began noticing an issue where the signal will randomly cut out every few minutes and give a few seconds with a black screen, with everything else working fine. Now, I have monitors plugged into the Displayport slots, and I never have any signal loss or issues. I thought that the issue was my Vizio TV. But now, I have a new Samsung Q80T, and the same thing happens. I'm now using different cables than before, HDMI 2.1, and trying to do 4k 120HZ, but it's quite frustrating playing anything on this, as the signal will frequently cut out at the worst time. So I can't help but wonder if it's a problem with my GPU or the HDMI port. My HOPE is that someone may have had a similar issue, and found a setting that needed to be changed, whether it be in display settings or nvidia control panel. Does anyone have a solution to offer? Thanks in advance, Daniel

Hello, A new build of mine has been doing pretty good this first month of operation. After its first 2 weeks, some RGB stopped working; all but one RGB device and that is all the RGB fans. They are all connected into one cable using Cooler Master's 1-5 ARGB Splitter (3 pin). It wasn't much of a priority since it is just RGB. However, I came to the thought that maybe the cable is a defect. I got it replaced and the same issue happened; not all lights are on. What is interesting is that they are all connected to one cable and the RGB fans (came with EK's AIO Elite that had a PWM fan hub) still work on the same cable. The RGB lights don't seem fried either. They all turn on for a split second every time I turn on the system and they randomly turn on for like 5 minutes at the most random times. What could be the issue? Is it all too much for one RGB header? If it is, unfortunately the motherboard only has one 3 pin header for RGB unless there is like some sort of converter. Much appreciated! Specs: CPU: Ryzen 9 5950x CPUc: EK AIO Elite 360mm GPU: RTX 3080 TI FE RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB DDR4 3200MHz MOBO: ASUS TUF X570 WIFI Plus PSU: EVGA 850w GT

I have a RTX 3090 that is supposedly drawing in 400w of power AT IDLE, but the GPU temps don't really reflect that(31.8 degrees celcius, fans are not going crazy). Obviously, this is something related to incorrect current draw readings and I was wondering if faulty shunt(s) would be causing this issue? If not, what could it be?

Update: Soldered on the SPDT switch, which allowed me to get into the 62-and on post code loop signaling memory issues. The odd thing is that the ram that I was using was ECC 1333mhz, which should definitely be compatible with the SR-2. However, as a last ditch attempt I tried a non-ecc gaming ddr3 ram stick that I had lying around from a old pc, and MAGIC! Posted STRAIGHT. I ordered some up-to-date bios chips, but am unsure as to when or if they will ever arrive. Now, this only posts with 1 CPU, but I am unsure whether that's because one of the CPU sockets has a bunch of bent pins, (can't tell really if it's bent tbh) or because I only have 1 of the ram sticks and I'm attempting to boot with ECC memory. If you have any ideas, please toss them down in the replies!

Good day, so I have a EVGA GTX 750ti SC 2GB and I really want to upgrade but I don't really have that much budget. I was just wondering if at what price range can I sell this graphics card and would it still receive Game-ready drivers from NVIDIA?

So after 5 years of use i started hearing some arcing noises from the back of my pc , the psu had a bad fan that i lubed twice and after the second time from time to time no (its not consistent) i hear noises similar to electrical short circuits or arcing. There is no coil whine or buzzing tho. My old PSU is FSP HEXA+ 550W , also one question , can the GPU or Motherboard make similar noise to the one in the video?? I searched EVERYWHERE and found no results..all are just psu.. The video : thats not MY psu its an example if the gpu and mb can make the same noise or not? Question 2 : Which is better out of these 2 ? EVGA br 700W or the one i the picture? Thanks in advance! Specs: I5 7400 , gtx 1660 super zotac amp , 16 gb value rams 8x2 , H110M motherboard. (Only changed GPU this year i have everything else since long ago)

Hey Everyone, So I recently just built my new gaming rig with the following basic specs: GPU - EVGA FTW3 ULTRA RTX 3080Ti CPU - AMD Ryzen 9 5950x MOBO - Asus TUF Gaming x570-Pro RAM - 32Gb 3600MHz CPU Cooler - Noctua NH-D15 Fan layout is: - 3 front intake - 3 top exhaust - 1 back exhaust As for temps, I’m a little concerned since I’m idling around 60C and reaching around 80C under heavy load (90C on hotspot). Especially when I’ve seen other examples of the same exact GPU idling around 42C and sometimes less. I’m really not sure what’s normal or not but I’m just asking out of pure curiosity. Now for power draw. I’m sure everyone is aware with the faulty coding in New World bricking GPUs because of spiking TDP percentages. I decided to run a Heaven Benchmark and my board power draw was around 390W at just about 100% TDP. Also, in Precision X1 the target is set to 100% and 83C. On a side note, my idle power draw is at 110W and my idle clock speeds are at 1800MHz. When I was in New World, I was getting around 75% TDP and wattages not going much further than 300W. So the question is should my TDP be at 100% under load or is 75% normal. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

So what is so good about this gpu? The price says there is something about it that is better than even newer gpus. Just curious.

I've seen so many mixed reviews online, some saying this is the perfect psu for there build, while others saying it exploded and fried there whole computer. I currently have it purchased, but now I'm wondering if I should return for a bronze. My specs Gpu. MSI 1050 ti Motherboard. MSI MAG B560M MORTAR WIFI Cpu. Intel i5 10400 Case. Cooler master masterbox q300l

Hey guys, i found a UDS 100 difference between a 3060 from EVGA and a Palit one (this one is the cheapest) my plan its to have the card from at least 4 years or more but i have concerns about Palit, i don't know so much of the brand and i don't know if it worth to pay the 100 bucks more for the EVGA card, i'm not planning to make any overclock or something like that, juts plug and play.

Hello Sorry for disturbing. But I need help. Can I use EVGA BR 450W with my PC Specs below? Thank you

Specs CPU: Intel Core i9-10850K Comet Lake 10-Core 3.6 GHz LGA 1200 GPU: ASRock OC Formula RX 6900 XT RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) F4-3200C16D-32GTZR Mother Board: ASRock Z490 Steel Legend LGA 1200 NVME: 2xSAMSUNG 980 M.2 2280 250GB PCI-Express 3.0 x4 SSD: 2xSAMSUNG 870 EVO Series 2.5" 500GB HDD's Storage: Seagate BarraCuda ST2000DM008 2TB 7200 AIO: Fractal Design Celsius S36 360mm PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA P3 220-P3-1200-X1 1200W Case Fans: 5xPhanteks SK140 PWM FAN - 140mm Fan, High Airflow Nine-blade Design, 3xfront intake, 1xfront bottom intake, 1xrear exhaust AIO Fans: Fractal Design 3x120 Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 Full Tower Peripherals: Logitech MK710 2.4GHz Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Combo - Black OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Display: Hisense 65" Class 4K QLED Android Smart TV HDR U8 Series 65U8G I started this build a year ago this month and I had it all put together minus a GPU, I know y'all all know why, and I've just been messing around with it here and there. I was fortunate enough to come into a small amount of money recently so I went ahead and ordered the new PSU along with the GPU. Since those parts were brand new I decided I should go ahead and tear it down and do a deep clean on it since I never put the side panels on because I knew if I did I would procrastinate and not get it completed. I received the parts on Friday afternoon and about 6:30 I went ahead and got started with the redux of the build. Well about 12 hours later I was finally finished everything, I know you're thinking 12 hours goodness gracious LMAO, I'm disabled so I have to do things in spurts so I don't end up hurting myself any worse than I already am. I know I could use some 24 pin extensions along with the GPU cables, however, I actually love the way this looks because it doesn't look like everyone elses. A little caveat also is my name is Thomas and of course my screen name and nickname being TubbyTubb I know it's gonna sound corny but I love how the GPU cables and the water lines sort of make a big T, like I said corny LMAO. I apologize ahead ahead of time for there being so many links but I have an 108MP camera on my phone and the files are very large so I couldn't just drag and drop them in the box like I did the main picture I used to give y'all a glimpse of what you would see. I welcome any and all critiques and constructive criticism. The only thing I ask is for nobody to be rude because it doesn't look the way you think it should look. This is what I was able afford so I done the best I can. Some of y'all may have seen my other post in the custom loop section. I am planning on water-cooling both the CPU and GPU I'm working on getting all of the required parts to do that in the fairly new future. A couple or friends are sending me an EKWB EK-Quantum Velocity RGB CPU block for free and the other is sending me all of his bending, deburr tool, tube bending tools as well so I don't have to buy everything just to do one rig. I will probably invest in some of my own in case I get an order for me to build someone a system. Here are the pics: Completely finished This was when I originally "completed" it last year This is right after I tore it down you can see it obviously needed a good bath Of course I had the best helper/supervisor you could ask for LMAO I know my cable management isn't the best on some of them I was length restricted Let me know what you think please. THOMAS

Hey guys I have a problem that I’ve tired to fixed but can’t seem to come to a resolution with. So for some insight I have AMD 3900XT cpu and a EVGA 3080 ftw3ultra gpu 32Gb ram. so.. my problem is with my card I can’t get the thing to even come close to touching the FPS it should be 1920/1080 on far cry 5 average 140fps for example and I only get 50fps I have wiped clean the drivers and reinstalled the drivers and the GeForce experience and nothing the card also is only at 40% utilization while playing in game ive been through the control panel settings and everything is good. Ive even cranked everything to low in game then reset the game and nothing no rise at all in FPS. So if anyone has any ideas Im all ears for some help.

I'm having an issue with my EVGA 3070 FTW3. The fans in general seem weird/off to me as the stock fan curve has them on idle constantly switching on and off even with low temps (30-40c). They also appeared to be out of sync. Again, I'm not sure if this is normal or not as this is my first EVGA GPU. Now the real issue, The third (and im not entirely sure if either of the other fans do this but the third is the worst offender) make a clicking hard drive noise when kicking on initially. It is not a consistent noise unless the fans are going from 0 RPM to X RPM and back which can happen without a custom curve. My real question is by EVGA standard is this expected or a defect? I have adjusted this with my own custom curve to stop the clicking but hate using software and would rather rely on the automated fans to do the job. I just bought this and I'd like to know so I can return it if it is indeed defective but judging from others it seems like this is normal behavior for a fan to click like that? Just wanted input from someone on here, thanks! Edit:. I've posted this to EVGA forums as well as I see many others dealing with this and just overall confused with the response from a moderator on there who said "its normal" but then didnt seem to understand I was talking about the clicking noise. He thing immediately responded "if you think its a bad fan I would RMA it" which makes me feel even more confused as he didn't actually give his own input on it.

Hey all, I am running a vertically mounted EVGA XC3 Ultra 3080 Ti in an NR200P w/ TG panel (needless to say it gets rather hot and heavy @87°C under load #ChokeMeDaddy). In an attempt to try to combat these outrageous temps, I've adjust my GPU and case fan speeds, but I'm also trying to undervolt my GPU using MSI Afterburner. However, everytime I adjust the max frequency to a lower/stable voltage my GPU idle temps go up 10° from 53° to around 63°. Is this normal for Afterburner, or am I doing something wrong? My max temps under load have dropped between 78° and 80°, which is "better" but should I be worried about the increase at idle?*** ***UPDATE: I figured out that the reason is idle 2as so high was because I "locked" the voltage on MSI AB. Now that I unlocked (shift-L'd) the undervolt, and tweaked the fan curves of my case and the GPU, I am pushing 0.825mV@1800MHz w/ 37°C at idle and an average 77°C at load. Needless to say a 10° decrease is SWEET! LOL

Hey, I just got EVGA RTX 3060 XC skew P5-3657-KB. While gaming it was running at around 84C so I adjusted the fan curve and now it is hovering around 80C with 100% fan speed. Downloaded "GPU-Z" and it shows that the hotspot when gaming is 96-98C. My case is well ventilated and have not had any issues with my previous card. My main concern is the hotspot temp. Is it too hot or are hotspots meant to be this hot?

Was digging through the 80 plus certification list and found some info on what look like upcoming EVGA PSU's. The EVGA T6 1300W and 1600W. I attached the sheets from 80 plus to this, but was curious if anybody knew any more info about these units. EVGA CORPORATION _1600 T6 _1600W_SOCE 6433_Report.pdf EVGA CORPORATION _1300 T6 _1300W_SOCE 6432_Report.pdf

So I've had this PSU for about 2 years and I've lost the dust filter on the bottom of my case that would normally stop the dust inside the PSU, and when it's getting pretty nasty but I am very nervous about cleaning it. even though I will not be opening the PSU itself The PSU is a EVGA 750 GQ, 80+ GOLD fully modular, is it possible for me to damage the PSU by dusting it off with compressed air? or any of the other parts when I plug it back in? For whatever reason I have this very irrational fear. Also what happens if I don't clean my psu? I have a 5 year warranty on this. The blades themself dont seem that dirty, just the grill. I have attatched a photo of the dust collected so far https://imgur.com/a/uir12AQ

Backstory: Okay, so I'm running a bit of an experiment in my primary PC and I have some questions for people who have used these parts in other systems. I have a ton of experience building, fixing, networking, and general troubleshooting of computers but this is a little beyond my usual scope of work. I had a 9900k and 3080 FTW3 system in an H500P Mesh a few months ago and decided to pull the trigger on going AMD since the numbers I was seeing from people was kind of crazy for the money and there was a 5800x available on Best Buy's site so I grabbed it for next day delivery and grabbed an MSI X570 Unify as well. Once this stuff arrived I noticed I still had plenty of power available from my UPS (The big limiting factor for me at the moment) so I drove the hour to my nearest Micro Center and picked up a 5950x and some better memory before driving back home. After all of this I thought I was done until I got a notification from eVGA that my queue entry from late last year for a 3090 (didn't know the exact model at first, I was in a panic and bought it as fast as I could) had popped so I ordered the card and it wasn't until afterwards that I realized the price seemed really high, even these days (plus eVGA doesn't scalp at the moment) so I looked again and realized that what I thought was just a Hybrid 3090 was the K|ngp|n 3090 so I was also paying for some extra connectors and an OLED screen lol. Now, to backtrack a bit I had also decided just prior to this that I wanted to put my case below my desk so I had purchased a Corsair 4000D to downsize my build around when I got the 5950x and the memory...the 5000D seemed too big and if I was going that big I might as well have gotten a huge case (the 7000D hadn't come out yet or I may have gone that route) or one that was very intriguing to me like the Silent Base 802 or the Meshify 2 XL Dark instead...now I already had a long PSU (eVGA 1000 T2), 2 x HDD's, 5 x SSD's (2 x 2.5" w/ 15mm Z-Height and 3 x M.2), a full 16-Lane SAS12 card, and a 280mm radiator in the form of an H115i Pro for my CPU that was in the front bringing air in along with 2 x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM up top and a Corsair ML-120 in the back of the case as the output fans so this little case was pretty full and when I realized that I had a full-sized 3090 with a 360mm radiator attached on the way and I knew I'd need to get creative. My Solution: So I moved my H115i Pro to the top of my case, to do this I had to bail on using screws entirely and go with zip-ties (but using the original holes so it looks fine) instead...this allowed me to use the front for the 360mm rad. I removed both Noctua fans (although I may end up putting them on my H115i to replace the ML-140's depending on how things go) but kept the back ML-120 in place. I had to pull all the PSU cables out and reroute them and they're smashed currently to the point where I have absolutely zero room under the PSU shroud...while doing this I disconnected the HDD bay and moved it further towards the PSU since the 360mm rad wouldn't fit since it was too thicc with the HDD bay even in the spot furthest from the front...I drilled a new hole for the retention screws that held the HDD bay in place so it didn't push against the radiator. I was able to sort of manage the tubes for the AiO's using the existing mount points and the OLED screen on the GPU (tilting it back grabs the tubes) however things are a bit tangled inside but hopefully I'll figure out a better permanent cable management solution soon. I also had to bend a few parts of the case temporarily to get everything in...it was kind of a mess. The Results: So here are the final numbers and I was hoping someone here can tell me if this is a feasible long-term setup, whether any of the temps are too high, and maybe someone could relay any tips I may need to improve things...here's what I got though: CPU: Idle: 35c, Max (AVX2): 84c Motherboard Max: System: 53c, VR MOS: 47c, Chipset: 62c DRAM: Idle: 31c, Max: 42c Hottest SSD (The 980 Pro Under the GPU): Idle: 42c, Max: 65c Hottest HDD: Idle: 33c, Max: 42c GPU (My Biggest Concern): Core Idle: 29c, Core Max: 58c, GPU Hotspot Idle: 39c, GPU Hotspot Max: 70c, GPU Memory Junction Idle: 40c, GPU Memory Junction Max: 90c This seems pretty high right? Especially compared to the other temps, is there something I can do to reduce this temperature or is this setup hopeless? Is this even too high? Maybe the fan swap I'm considering would help? I could also swap the back fan if needed or maybe repasting something or getting better thermal pads...I dunno. Let me know what you guys think. Images of the setup as it is (remember, not done with cable management so don't make fun of me lol): https://imgur.com/a/617GJLs Edit: UPS load still stays under the max and gives me 5 minutes to shut down which I wasn't expecting lol...it's pretty close to the max wattage with the 3080 in the system although maybe this has to do with there not being the 2 industrial fans in the system anymore? Makes me nervous about adding them back...I added a screenshot to the bottom of that imgur link showing full Kombustor/CPU-Z Stress Test load making it hit 700 Watts which is still well under the 800 Watt max for that model of UPS.

Good afternoon? evening? some time of day, So, this is my first post, I was hoping it would have been a, look at my new build post! But that will have to come later. So I recently have been having an issue turning on my PC. I turned it off after updating Windows to the newest update it had, and had played some Final Fantasy XIV. This would have been Friday or Saturday evening, I can't remember which. When I went to go turn it on last night (Sunday) it would get to the splash screen and do 1 of 4 things. (1) It would freeze on the splash screen with the text underneath saying press DEL to run <BIOS> etc, (2) It would get to the splash screen and then immediately reboot. (3) It would get to the splash screen, say Preparing Automatic Repair, then immediately reboot, (4) It would stay a black screen and you could just see the RGB in the case, or hear the fans running. I have already tried to reset the CMOS and that just delayed it getting to the splash screen but would do the same. I tried booting from a Windows 10 USB to see if I could get to a CMD prompt, but when I try to boot from USB it just gets to the windows logo, then blue screens with SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED or BAD_POOL_HEADER and immediately reboots. I have also updated the BIOS to the newest version via BIOS (which I can get into just fine if I hit DEL as soon as the splash screen starts up. I even went so far as to download and create a bootable Ubuntu USB to see if I could launch it and run anything on the pc. Here are my PC's specs OS - Windows 10 x64 Windows 10 Free copy of windows from School Age of system - originally built in 2018/2019 upgraded mobo, CPU, and GPU in 2020, and 2021 Age of OS installation - original installation CPU model - AMD Ryzen 7 3800X Video Card model - EVGA RTX 3080 MotherBoard - MSI Prestige X570 Creation Power Supply - EVGA G3 850 Watt 80 Plus Gold System Manufacturer - Myself Exact model number N/A Desktop 32 GB 3200MHz Corsair CL16 256 GB WDBlue NVMe SSD boot drive 1 TB ADATA Falcon NVMe SSD game drive 4 TB Seagate Video Storage Drive (2 x 2TB) I would love any input on how to fix this, as I have tried everything I can think of aside from taking out the boot ssd, putting it in an external enclosure and running chkdsk on it from my laptop (which I'm using to write this). I appreciate any and everybody that would respond, or even reads this, thank you all and have a great Day/Night!