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Showing results for tags 'copper'.
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I'm intending to get a jumpstart on a new itx PC build, this time with the intent of perhaps fitting it inside a Skyreach S4 Mini. I was looking into some low-profile solutions with fitting a CPU cooler, and I've concluded that the Cryorig C7 Cu's copper heatsink paired with a Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM seems like the best fit (since Noctua doesn't seem to have any low-profile copper solutions of their own). My question now is how to attain those special mounting clips that come with Noctua's heatsinks...without buying the heatsinks themselves. I've contacted Noctua, but they haven't come to me with an answer yet. I wasn't sure where I could attain these clips so I can pull off something like this gentleman from the SFF forums (Credit to Hudzzy). Also buying two separate cooling solutions to combine them doesn't seem as cost efficient, so I was wondering if Zalman or any other manufacturer has a similar idea of having an all-copper low profil cooling solution out there.
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I´ve heard you should either only use copper or only use aluminium for your custom water cooling loop. Why the hell, in this case, are there no copper pump+reservoir combos availible? Even the EK Waterblocks webpage gives me an aluminium pump+reservoir combo. Does the pump not affect the water? Sorry if the question turns out to be stupid - LiquidNitrogen BTW can I use brass fittings for an all-copper loop?
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Hello everyone! Yesterday I found out that there are 4 copper wires running from the kitchen (where my router is) to my bedroom that are currently unused and part of the telephone infrastructure in my house. So, I wanted to see how much data I could push through those 4 wires and if it would be better than investing in an AC Wireless solution. Currently, I've got a gigabit router hooked up to a homemade FreeNAS from some older Gigabit compatible hardware. That network works fine, and with a USB 3.0 Adapter to Ethernet I can transfer files at upwards of 100MB/s to my Surface Pro 4, the device I plan to be using. Originally, I thought of using 2 pair Ethernet, which I actually tried and it works, so I'll go ahead today and buy an Ethernet Port to hook this up to the wall. However, since this is 2 pair Ethernet with only 4 wires, I'm limited to 100mbps, which is slower than my current WiFi for file transfer. Another idea I've had was to use these wires as USB wires. This is a bit more complicated than it sounds. USB 2.0 should work fine, but I am a bit over the distance limit. This should give me about 30mb/s transfer speeds, which is certainly an improvement. My Surface Pro 4 only supports up to 867mbps WiFi, so this might actually be faster than investing in a better WiFi solution. USB 3.0 is where stuff gets interesting. According to some research, I can ditch the USB 2.0 part of the connector entirely, since I can provide power on one end and the new USB 3.0 wires are enough to get the connection to work as intended on USB 3.0 devices. However, USB 3.0 has 5 wires. I've been trying to figure out what the middle wire does and see if that could be avoided on one end. On Wikipedia, it's listed as GND_SIGNAL, but I can't fully understand how it's used. Explanations would be much appreciated! Is there any other way I could achieve faster internet through those 4 wires? Any standards that I missed? It's a real shame that Ethernet only goes from 100 to 1000 mbits, it would be great if we could use two pairs to get 500mbits. I'm open to any suggestions and criticism! Thanks in advance, Chris.
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Is a full copper heatsink a lot better than a regular one ?
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I was looking on internet for THE best thermal paste none conductive an none liquid metal that is not corroding or degrading at all any type of material (aluminium, copper, nickel..) and I found a particular information on one of my listed thermal paste. The Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste is apparently (I'm not confirming this information, since a only dude talked about that and was really evasive on the subject) degrading a material used for heat spreader as eg: aluminium I want to know if it's true or not.. If incorrect I want to know which material is degrading over a long term of time with the Kryonaut (When I say degrading, I mean DESTROY the material as liquid gallium on aluminum, I don't care about scratching surface or decoloration, I want to know if it will survive long term use without killing the PC) (I am not debating about which thermal paste is the best, it's not the goal of the topic) I know that I am VERY specific, but it is really important that I know if it does kill a specific material.. THANKS YOU FOR ANSWERING ME.
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- kryonaut
- thermal paste
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I know that copper is a better heat transporter but how big will this impact performance ? Will there be a big difference between a copper and aluminium water block?
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Hello there Random Stranger, Welcome to my world, well.. now that I got that out of my system, welcome to my new project. My father wanted a new PC and I, as the techsavy guy in our family, offered to build him one. And as a special treat...decided to build him a custom case...just because i can. Because i know that my father is a little bit old fashioned i decided to build him a retro themed case. Inspiration was drawn from old radios and tv's. The two main materials would be copper and wood, dark wood since wood tends to darken over time. and it looks nice with copper. The next premise was: it should be located on the desk to make it easily accesible...wich ties in with the first: should look nice since it had to be placed on the desk. further requirements: DVD Drive (so annoying) Further Hardwware isnt much to mention since he gave me a pretty tight budget... so i went with a Pentium G4600 2C/4T MSI B250I Pro 8 GB DDR4 Value RAM (holy fuck that shit got expensive) some old Nvidia GT i still had (thanks to crypto that went through the roof right at the start of this build) bequiet PSU some DVD drive so i got to work and started to visualise what i had in mind. Here is a first peek using SketchUp (my fathers work area) where its black there should be copper... Those "renderings" convinced my father and i went to work. Sadly there aren't many pictures as some got lost...don't know why though after a couple of router passes i had all the 45 degree angles kinda right... that was one pain in the back to do those...especially with an unprecise routerbit. yeah.,...i made that picture with my smartphone instead of the DSLR...cant believe i did that test fitting and adjustments and yeah...its not copper...as it turns out i was too ambitious about that...couldn't do it myself as i dont have neither the tools nor the skills to do so. But i found a company which specializes in cutting sheet metal according to CAD drawings (even one at a time). Guess you need a little bit of luck too. Now i have just to paint that. Aaaand TADAAAAAA!!!!! This looks way nicer than i feared it might look. As you might have noticed...the wood is actually playwood...for the same reason the copper is not really copper. Sadly i dont have a CNC so i had to outsource the wood cutting as well. At least the openings i cut myself. (pretty lousy if one might notice) But as nobody will ever see the inside or the backside....since it will be on my fathers desk for the next 5 years.... Don't care Thats it for now. Thanks for reading along.
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- custom case
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Hello, everyone, I'm looking up parts for liquid cooling and galvanic corrosion comes up a lot. I understand what it is, but in the video "Fully RGB Water Cooling..." the fittings they use are copper based and the monoblock from strix - as far as I have found - only comes in nickel. Wouldn't that induce galvanic corrosion? I ask because that monoblock looks sexy as all hell and I would like to use those fittings because they look sexy as hell as well. Any help would be very much appreciated.
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Hi all, A few years back I saw a mod for car audio where they used solid copper or copper pipes to connect the amp to the subwoofer. For some reason this idea just came back to me now, and I think it would look sick as a mod for a modular power supply. My idea is to use 18/16 AWG solid copper wire instead of the stock 24-pin connector from power supply to motherboard since it will hold its shape and do 90 degree bends in it where appropriate. In order to keep the wires separated as there would not be insulation on them (maybe do a rubber paint on them to insulate them) I will be using a typical cable comb that is used to keep the usual wires neat. I can't for the life of me find any mod like this on Google, and was wondering if any of you guys have. If not, any advice or tips on how I could accomplish this would be awesome! Thanks!!
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Hi! I'm a bit stuck on my water cooling loop and since it's my first one I'm having some troubles solving the question: Which pump and res should I use? I really want a pump/res combo so I was planing on using this pump/res EK-XRES 100 REVO D5 PWM Then I was planing on changing the res tube to a 250(204mm) The problem is that the rest of my build is copper components and as far as I can see, this is aluminium. Do you guys have any suggestion for me? Only requirements, good, resonable quite pump, 200+(preferably 250) res, and 60 mm diameter res Thanks alot for all the help! Kind regards Simon
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- pump res combo
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In my small town in Croatia we have explicitly copper wired network options because they find it expensive to drill some holes and replace the cables with fiber optic ones (so i've been told). Is there a way for me to lets say buy an fiber optics converter that converts the copper wire to the fiber optics cable so i can get faster and a more reliable network or there is no way to simply do it? My current down speed is 7.6 Mbps and upload is 0.45 Mbps. The funniest part is that i am paying my ISP for a down speed of 25 Mbps but they simply can't get it through to me...
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Hey, someone on newegg worned in the review that because Fractal Design S24 (water cooler) uses aluminium radiators in could cause galvanic corrosion (btw i know what it is). So I just want to know whats the view on aluminum coolers and how often are they used. And yes my build will include copper parts (the pc was just ordered today, but can easily cancel it) Thy *later* nvm, as far as i can see almost all coolers have aluminum parts
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Is it possible to use copper pipe for a custom water cooling loop. I know how to work with copper piping because I took plumbing in school
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So I know this has been discussed before, and that Linus has done two videos on it already. But, I feel like the attempts didn't take into account a few better options. 1. 3D printed material. There are better material they could print with that could have been burned off/melted out much easier. Woodfill PLA or gluetype material generally used for support. Besides that, I'm not sure what % they used to fill the interior of their cooler, but if they make it 10% solid instead of 100% that should allow for much easier burning off. 2. Design. I think the solid block with a straight line of fins is the laziest design possible. Even if their Heatsink would have came out as designed, it still probably would have been at best the same as stock Intel coolers. Why not go for a high surface area geometry or even fractal design. Yes this would be harder to design, but this is 2017 and LTT obviously knows enough to either Matlab it up themselves or find a fanboy online who knows exactly about this type of design. 3. Aluminum instead of copper?? Why?! That amount of copper is going to cost nothing especially if you're just scrapping it out! And for god sakes, use some Borax in that melted metal before pouring it! 4. Bypass the heat spreader IHS. Why not take their CPU IHS off, weld it in some fashion to their finished heatsink, and then Thermal paste that bad boy back on directly to the silicon? Eliminate every issue and give them known improvement In thermals. Believe it or not, I'm actually working to do something like this. I'm in the process of stripping about 200ft of copper coax and collecting it. That should give me ~10lbs to work with. I've used solidworks to design other objects, I own a Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer that I know how to use. If anyone is at all interested in bouncing ideas around with me, I'm more than excited to talk with you.
- 16 replies
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- heatsink
- 3d printing
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Hello guys, I'd like to follow up on my old thread I started explaining what and why I'd like to do to my GPU's heatsink, it's sorta long to explain so please just read the old one as I've explained with pictures and in detail what I'm about to do. So basically I found some PS3 copper shims that supposedly increase cooling for the core (I don't know how since I assume it doesn't have the misaligned cooler like I do) and It's about the size I need it to be. I also found a seller on ebay who sells cut to size copper sheets that are 0.8mm in thickness vs the 1.2mm thick PS3 shims and I'd actually like a rectangular 30x20 piece just to cover the 3rd heatpipe so this is why I'm considering the bigger sheet to cut it to size. My thinking is if I take the thinner shim it will be less big of an insulator (even if it's copper I'm still adding another layer between the core and heatpipes) but I'm not 100% certain on that and this is where I need your advice. I'll see what temperature whichever route I go to yields and since they're so cheap I can not even use them if they make things worse. PS: I've taken into considerations changing thermal paste and I will buy NT-H1 fairly soon which should only improve what I will see. I also know the risk of shorting things out and the extra height that the screws might not be able to reach to. Thanks
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[BUILD IN PROGRESS] A few months ago, I and a friend were conversing about water cooling, as all self respecting pc nerds do from time to time. And on on that day, we hatched a plan. Now, despite living on a pittance, he has managed to accrue enough money to water-cool his machine. We have opted (for better or worse) to use 12mm copper tubes for the build. The hardware itself consists of a 5820k and a single (for the moment) gtx1070 gpu. For dissipation, we have a single 420mm radiator, to be mounted in the top of the case, and a 280mm rad to be mounted on the front intakes. The case is a fractal design define r5. the parts: We plan to add posts to this thread more or less in real time, as the build progresses over the course of the night next few days (things are never that simple are they?). Neither of us have significant experience with water cooling so things could get interesting, as such, we would appreciate any tips and tricks you might have to offer! [PROGRESS UPDATE - 22.07.17] The build build has reached a key point, we have installed and leak tested the loop, and done a bit of quick and dirty overclocking, bumping the GPU up by ~150mhz and the cpu from 3.3 to 4.4. Work on the machine is pretty much done as of now, but there are a number of hings still on the agenda: Loop temperature controlled cooling, I plan to design a small circuit for controlling pwm fans using a standard g1/4 threaded temperature sensor. We could use a pre-made internal board like the aquero 6, but if you ask me, from an engineering standpoint that product is far overpriced for the functionality it offers. I'm confident I can build a device that will do what we need for pennies on the dollar by comparison. I will likely put up a thread detailing the design once it's done. Cable sleeving, enough said! No water cooling build is complete without custom sleeved and routed cables, extensions are for lame people , and for people with more space for cable management... Overclocking and bench-marking. Our preliminary overclocking was very lacklustre. Just a quick and dirty voltage/frequency boost. A proper overclocking session (or several) are needed to really push the system to its maximum potential. Also a couple of insane-o-volts 5ghz benchmark runs could be fun These tasks however, will have to be left for a time when we have more, well, time (and money). Likely in a few months time when sam picks up a second 1070. This build has been very tiring for the both of us, taking place over the course of two all night sessions just two days apart. We both need a rest. The finished machine with all the cables installed:
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Cryorig 2017-2018 There are 2 main topics of discussion I've seen among Cryorig enthusiasts. 1.- When will the AF41 be released after we saw a picture of it leaked in later 2016. and 2.- After Computex, what coolers will be offered with the Cryorig Cu treatment and when? I spoke with a rep from research idea gear who would like to remain anonymous. Questions and Answers Q1. When will the AF41 be officially released, and can it be made from 2-3 R1 Ultimate coolers? A1. "unfortunately the AF41 is just idea for the April fool event and we never plan to release it and make it available"-"No, you could not assemble the R1s into an AF41 just by yourself." (Would they help me make it then??) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Q2. What will the launch look like for the copper coolers? A2. "for the Cu series, the C7 will be first product to be released in Copper edition." _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Below is a picture of the ginormous Cryorig AF41 and two pictures of the Cu edition Cryorig C7 cooler first to be released soon, thanks for reading!
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Hello! I'm new to water-cooling and am looking to build my first loop. Since I am super cheap I am trying to buy parts for as cheap as possible. Because of this, I don't want to buy the "standard" EK Pump/Reservoir that matches the rest of my copper stuff. Instead, I found an XSPC X4 Photon 270mm Reservoir/Pump (aluminum I think). My problem is that I have a copper water-block and radiator. Will the aluminum pump/reservoir hurt my loop? If I use an anti-corrosive fluid will it be ok? Thanks for the help! lahren1
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Hi all, I need some laptop cooling advice. Brief Description of what's happened: My dad's Lenovo G710 laptop recently stopped working (specs and service manual link are at the end of this post). I've diagnosed the issue to be the nvidia graphics card needs reseating (or whatever the term is). Questions regarding cooling: I've always removed thermal pads and just used MX-4 paste from Arctic Cooling on the CPU and GPU. But I've been doing research and found conflicting advice saying that I should use a copper shim on top of the GPU as well as paste to aid in cooling (transfer the heat). What are your thoughts? Does a copper shim help or not in reducing temperatures and therefore allow a longer life of the laptop? I've done extra research and decided to use the Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme thermal paste next instead of MX-4. Thanks for your advice all Dad's Laptop Specs (service manual download link PDF): Lenovo G710 laptop: Intel i3 4000m cpu, 4GB ddr3-1600 ram, nvidia 720m gpu, kingston 240gb ssd hdd, dvd-rw, wifi and bluetooth etc.
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I live near a river and people here say that copper turns black because of the air. My laptop died recently after 5 years of use and when i opened it, i saw the pipes turned black. Is this bad? Does it effect the cooling power of my laptop? Because i was planning to buy another laptop with 800$. But if this is an serious issue then i would not spend that much money for something that will have broken heat pipes in 2 years. Please help me out. Is this bad for the cooling system? I can't monitor the heat as my laptop is dead. As far as i know it only over heated because of dust. So am I risking my money if i get an expensive (for me at least) laptop? Help please. You can see the photos, almost all of it is black like burnt. Only a little area underneath still has the original color.
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Fellow Techies, I am selling my Corsair AIO cooler. However, the copper base is discolored. I will post a picture if need be. How can I get that new-ish shine back on it?
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Hello, I have a XSPC RX 360 Rad and 240 plus a new Alphacool Eisfach reservoir, XSPC raystorm AMD cpu block bought in September and XSPC razor gtx 680 water block. The gpu block and rads are about 5 years old. But the res and cpu block are brand new now I put them together in late September. By end of October I saw this dust sitting at the bottom of the res. So I took everything apart and saw the pipes, res, fittings with this green/blue stuff. So I started cleaning them up the res, fittings and pipes. Now the rad, gpu block and cpu block I still haven't touched. I have cleaned most of the res and fittings but they are still some left as you can see in the pictures Now doing some research I think it could be corrosion or copper oxidation. All the parts are copper and brass. Except this new res which has metals in it and I think this could be the culprit. I need you guys help on how to clean it and put my loop back up Thank you
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Hi! I'm planning to use the two following pieces in my next watercooling loop. But the waterblock states that it's "true chrome plated". I was wondering if I'm risking any galvanic reaction (corrosion) by mixing a conventional copper based block and this gpu block? Does that plating change anything? Here are the two components. Thanks upfront! CPU block: http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeXL2.aspx GPU block: http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx
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Hey there! I was wondering to anyone reading this (if anyone at all) knew what was better. More heatpipes that are shorter or less heatpipes that are longer.