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i remember a video where linus puts a whol computer under miniral oil to cool it down. it had great thermal and looked awesome. but i always got bothered with the fact they left the cpu/gpu heatsinks on. like... wouldnt it be better to remove the IHS and gpu heatsink and directly let the oil touch the die? and just to be safe have a fan near the processor die to keep liquid moving. i would absolutely love to see this concept come to life. and if you like this idea to come to life. like this post and hopefully the team sees it as well

Hello everyone! Nice to meet you all, I'm new in this forum I want to ask your opinion on, as the title above, whether I should put nylon filter mesh on the underside of my laptop stand. So my laptop stand have this several big holes in the middle of it for airflow (ex. as shown in the attachment). I fear that my laptop (HP Omen 16) will suck higher amount of dust over times because of that holes, so I plan to put nylon filter mesh (either size 120 / 150, rated for 125 and 100 micron respectively since I saw that many nylon fan filter have that size) on the underside of the stand, mayble glue the mesh on it. But is it a good idea to do that? Will it restrict the airflow too much instead, leading to possibly more problem down the line? Or should I just not put that mesh and just air can dust the laptop more often? Does that hole even affect how many dust the laptop gonna collect, and should I be worried in the first place? Thanks for the help!

Im going to repaste my cpu today. The paste currently applied was the included paste that came with my DRP4 but i figured i could do better by swapping out the ILM with a contact frame and applying some kryonaut. The paste has been on there since april when i built the thing so I dont think it should be too hard to get off with the 70% IPA i have. Im planning on using cotton balls and coffee filters to remove the existing paste. Is there anything I should know before going to repaste my cpu and cooler? This is my first time doing such a thing.

I currently have an HP omen 15 with ryzen 7 5800h & rtx 3060, it performs great, until 2 weeks ago when the CPU started to instantly spike to 100°C when I try to game on it, the gpu is fine, the cpu is the problem even sitting at idle it hovers around 45~70 degrees, which I find worrying, I replaced the thermal paste on both the GPU and CPU, and it seems only the GPU as gained something from it, the CPU hasn't from some reason. the Laptop still performs great, it even games great, but the instant spiking to around 100°C when trying to game or deploying virtual machines is not normal as far as I know. I am looking to buy a New gaming laptop unless I can find a fix to this overheating issue, which OEM has the best cooling system? budget is around 1500 usd

Hi. I upgraded my PC to a 5900X yesterday and am experiencing super high idle temps - about 80 degrees! I have used the same 280mm AIO cooler from my old rig and applied new thermal paste (details below). Temps were immediately super high on idle with nothing happening. So removed and applied thermal paste again but same problem. If I set my AIO pump to extreme mode, then idle temps come down to 50 degrees but then immediately goes to 80/90 degrees just doing F1 2020 benchmark. I also noticed that when I am in bios, the CPU temps seems decent - below 50 degree - but as soon as get into Windows, it’s at 80 degrees! All components (new and old) detected and all default (I just installed out of the box and only turned on XMP). I checked temps HWInfo64, NZXT CAM, HWMonitor and Ryzen Master - all show the high idle temps. I honestly have no idea what the problem is and would appreciate any help! Happy to share more info if needed. CPU - Ryzen 9 5900X Motherboard - X570 Aorus Pro (Rev 1.2) Cooler - Corsair H115i Extreme (CW-9060027-WW) RAM - 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 2400Mhz C14 Case Fans - Corsair LL140 (front intakes) Cooler Fans - Corsair LL140 (exhaust) Case - Fractal Design Meshify 2 Thermal Paste - Coolermaster Mastermaker Pro

I recently got a Topdon TC001 thermal imaging camera to use as a trouble shooting tool and it's been awesome for testing PC thermals. I had to make a wooden frame side panel with a cling wrap window to allow IR band light to pass through as the regular glass is thermally opaque and highly reflective. The cling wrap emits weak thermal radiation which is nice as it shows the heat pattern that would be spread across the glass while still being transparent for the most part. I plan to test several different flow regimes as it is useful to understand how stagnation and local pressure effects heat in the case. This is the first experiment I ran while playing Diablo 4, trying to see if my old idea of back to front case flow was working how I imagined it. Turns out yes, it's working as planned with most of the hot air exiting into the dead space at the top front of the case. I know this will cause higher dust ingestion but the goal is to provide the best possible cooling potential to the CPU and GPU. No air gets used twice when setup this way and the motherboard stays cooler over all. The idea behind the bottom fans is to push cool air under the GPU cooler preventing recirculation of the hot exhaust air back down between it and the case panel. The F9 mounted on the empty case slots is crucial in this role as the back corner of a case is historically bad for stagnation and recirculation. There's a divider between the bottom front fan and the top two which prevents mixing of the flows inside the case from which has space for a full rad and fans, without this the case rapidly heats up due to the same hot air being passed through the GPU over and over. I've had a lot of push back about running opposed flow top fans and feel vindicated now that I can see the air flow across the ram from the top rear 140mm to the top front 140mm. I will try flipping the top front fan later today and see what kind of difference it makes. Top front exhaust small.mp4

I've been occasionally repasting both my personal Laptops and some devices at work. But I've always run into issues: The temps are great for the first couple days, but just a few weeks / months after repasting, the CPU is back to old temps. One year later, I even had a few devices crashing because of the CPU overheating under load. After some googling, it turns out that the regular thermal paste (Arctix MX4 / MX5) that I've been using, isn't ideal for direct die application. I suppose it doesn't as well, because of pump out. Reddit recommends to go with high viscosity thermal compound, such as Gelid GC Extreme or Honeywell PTM7950. What is generally considered the best price/performance thermal compound for laptops? And is there a difference in what I should use between repasting office and gaming laptops?

any thoughts an advice on new case an mods for my old build an layout as ill soon be transferring my previous LITTLE YELLOW BEAST to my new case the nzxt h5 flow - paint job still in the works the case needs two more even coats long with the io & pci plates hard drive , bottom angled fan mount an rad mount brackets before gear would be transferred still waiting on vertical mount to arrive so i can paint that to all the previous setup's gear is to be moved aside from a ram upgrade im going from 32gb to 64gb my current game plan for gear layout in the new case is to vertical mount gpu as before but with Coolermaster Universal Vertical GPU Holder Kit Ver.2 an to mount the aio in the front top fan position in the pull config with both 120mm fans as front exhaust on the outer of the rad bracket mount also with the bottom angled fan as exhaust to an a 120mm Fan Size Cooler Exhaust Shroud on the other side of the aio as a intake scoop aimed torwards the top front fan to be set as intake along with the other an rear also as intake ther are two main reasons i down with some of my builds 1.positive pressure with some case an my room air flow an temps an gear just works better 2.cleaning my home has a shitty stucco ceiling the just flaks fine paint dust that cake my filter on pc's an other gear a as the home is a rental i cant do a thing about it so ease of cleaning is a must especially not having to open up the case every week to clean but rather just taking my shopvac over the outside to off an out the filters is better an iv got some good filter mesh to put between the top an rear fans that iv used before the collects the paint fleck an does hinder air flow so thats the jest your thought advice , or gentle criticism 06/22/23 update 2nd & 3rd paint coat update these 6 pixs are of the 2nd & 3rd coatsthis side of the front panel looks better on the other side more pixs later plus the io pci plates an drive an fan tray mounts an fittings will be coated later to day then a final pic with all together before the pc gut are transferred

I've been planning to re-paste thermal paste for my V2 switch (2019). It doesn't get seriously hot, but there is definitely an increase in heat fan noise and heat overall. Plus I think it needs little bit of cleaning and servicing! I have serveral years of experience with PC parts and larger consoles, but this is the first time I'm taking apart something small and delicate as the switch. Im planning to do the following to improve the thermal performance of this device, please let me know if I've planned something wrong or anyway I can improve these. Remove the metal CPU shield cover shim (or whatever thats called) and re-apply thermal paste there (Noctua NT-H1, surface will be cleaned with Arctic Clean Kit + 70% alcohol wipes). Put thermal pad on memory modules (options below) 2.a - Put a 0.5mm thermal pad in between the shim and the memory module 2.b - Put only on top of the shim not inside it (but I feel like there is not enough contact between the modules and the shim 2.c - do both above. Then reapply the paste between shim and heat-pipe Then between the pipe and the shield plate I also wanted to know If I can replace the foam pieces on heat-sink with standard duct-tape -----or----- some thermal pads? (Thermal pads on heat-pipe will be a bad idea when it comes to heat dissipation) - I have a feeling they are tightly glued and may tear when removing the heat-sink, just being ready. I need help with steps 2 and 5 mainly here, what should I do?

while i haven't been able to find a compatible full waterblock for my power color fighter 6700xt (twin fan) to bring my load temps down from a avg peak idle avg 27.5c load avg 67.7c (during the winter) in a 68deg room to avg 34.5c peak idle to avg 78.7c load (during the summer) in 72deg room with a well ventilated case 5 x 120mm noctua 3000rpm fans iv been thinking about thermal solution augments for the 6700xt such as replacing the thermal pasta with thermal pads like my cpu's [Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad] an try this on the gpu core an the ARCTIC TP-3: Premium Performance Thermal Pad on the vrms or the the arctic on both core an vrms my goal would be to at bare minimum get 8c in reduction any more like 10 - 12c an i would be even happier so id like thoughts , idea's , an advice on this an if anyone's got a step by step for this gpu's tear down so i can down it right would be much appreciated my gear loadout LITTLE YELLOW BEAST fyi if you think temps are affected negatively by this layout there actually a bit better as the old layout when the gpu was horizontal an rear aio as exhaust everything was 8c hotter at both idle an load they as cool as the are now after re-config ther no diff with 1-1/2 intake on the gpu as before but it vertical an with the rear exhaust fan freed up ther is , an the same for the cpu with front mount aio in pull config.

Currently i'm planning my build in a FD North case and i'm wondering if i get the mesh side panel and put the GPU vertically facing the mesh panel will it lead to better cooling of the GPU? As far as i understand usually the best practice is to have a solid side panel in order to not disrupt the airflow inside the case and have better overall cooling, but in my case the card would draw fresh air from the side right? And just as a general opinion what would be the optimal fan config for this case? Top fans intake or exhaust? I have 360 AIO infront, 2x 140mm fans at the top, 1x 120mm fan at the back.

I'm sure it'd be fine for a 7900 or 13600kf or any of the lower end cpus from ryzen or intel. Would it be worth it to get a 240mm (or bigger if needed) aio for the 7800x3d or 13700kf? I know they can get pretty hot but for games like elden ring and esports titles would it be enough? If you need any more information then ask me, it's for a future build so I don't have anything as of now.

I'm cooling my 5800X3D with a Noctua NH-D15s Chromax, in a Phanteks P300 case w/ mesh front panel replacement. Temps are just fine during gaming, the worst "gaming" temp I've been able to get is 80-84c when loading a world in Minecraft Win10 with render distance at over 100 chunks, which makes extremely heavy use of the CPU while it's loading all the chunks in. Cinebench R23 hovers around 76c Only thing I'm worried about is OCCT Small Data Set test, because it basically goes straight to 90c and stays there, cores are usually holding a bit above 4ghz at that point, sometimes higher, but I don't really want to leave it on that long. Does this seem bad, or is it just how Le Toasty Boi 5800X3D behaves on certain benchmarks?

HI guys just upgraded most of the componets in my PC including an i5 13600kf so I went ahead and bought a cooler master Master Liquid ML280 and im stiill seeing thermal throttling when running cinebench r23. Im even more confused by the fact im seeing other builds with 240m AIO's only hitting 70C when gaming and mine sits at around 85C. I have tried undervolting however it seems to limit my perfromace as now task manager is saying that my cpu is only running at around 4.5ghz under load and im still hiting 98C on cinebench and 80C while gaming. Would love to know if anyone could help thanks.

Hello I got recently a nice and big ASUS 7900XTX OC, tried 3 fan configurations /curves Cool : fans at around 2500rpm, GPU 60C/Hotspot 75-80C Medium : fans at around 2000rpm, GPU 65C/Hotspot 80-85C Quiet : fans at around 1500rpm, GPU 70C/Hotspot 85-95C (as it increases more over time) "Cool" setup is way too loud for me, plus my PC is in the livingroom, so really annoying "Medium" noise is bearable, but I don't like the ramp up/down "Quiet" is well, quiet, but hotspot 95C seems high What do you think ?

Good evening Whilst shopping around for AIOs, I came around a curious listing: - Cooler Master Loquid ML360 Sub-Zero Evo AIO. Link: - https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/cpu-liquid-coolers/masterliquid-ml360-sub-zero-evo/ This is supposedly an effective cryo cooler for intel i9-13900K (my CPU), "promising" to cool my CPU to sub-ambient temperatures but I am skeptical thereof. For reference, I have a 1300W PSU and a 4090 GPU. For my CPU, may I ask, how effective this would be under the following conditions: - 1) CPU-intensive gaming like Cyberpunk 2077, etc. 2) Productivity Tasks. 3) Under Stress (benchmark-level). This one is more for my curiosity than practical daily use. 4) Any other situations you all may think of, being that I am still very new to PC-building and cooling. I am concerned about the condensation on my motherboard but apparently that is taken care of by the AIO. However, due to the lack of reviews thereon (which may be telling of itself) and my skepticism towards marking, I humbly seek your guidance to confirm how well this AIO performs and that, if otherwise, you could point me to a good AIO (cryo or otherwise). Thank you.

I am looking for a cooler for a Ryzen 7 7700x (which I may try to overclock) and I am trying to figure out the best option. Which of these are better, or is there something else at a similar price point that might be better suited for this? Case is a Gigabyte C301 Glass. Thanks!

Budget (including currency): 2800 EUR Country: Poland Will be used for: just gaming 1440p / 4k 144hz Details: Green card for best RTX; Life span 5-8 years; I considered Ryzen 7 7800 x3d but since it has all those problems with BIOS I go for i7; no over clocking; don;t care about looks, window, lights etc.; wi-fi and blth needed Build: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/HVJLzf Questions: 1. Is this air cooler enough or should I go for AIO? I want to build and just leave it instead of doing some maintenance after 5 years which will be necessary with AIO but I don't know if air cooler is enough for i7-13kf 2. Is Ryzen 7 7800 x3d and option now with BIOS issues? I can update BIOS but this issue is not solved yet so I'd rather just buy it without having to do maintenance right from the beggining. 3. Deepcool AK620 - does it make sense to get zero dark? Thank you for your help

Over the past few weeks I have been researching a lot and starting a lot of threads in different areas of the Forum discussing details and benefits of certain components. I do NOT have a Micro Center nearby, in fact the closest Micro Center is 350 miles away, so if you would like to suggest Micro Center Deals, they must be deals that can be shipped. The main use of this PC will be gaming with a side of multitasking. Targeted gaming performance is 120 FPS at 3440x1440 resolution with High to Ultra Settings (No artificial frame generation). I do not care about Ray Tracing or Cuda. I do multitask a bit but it has been concluded that I shouldn't really need more than a 8-Core/16-Thread CPU. I do upload videos to YouTube but just for fun or to show friends something they wanted to see, I am not a YouTuber by trade. The heaviest CPU workloads I do are editing video, gaming while streaming, gaming while recording, or just CPU heavy gaming scenarios with un-optimized games such as Playing Star Citizen or 7 Days to Die while streaming the video feed to Discord chats. I am a fan of enthusiast-grade Air Cooling and the fact that top-tier Air Coolers can match the cooling performance of most 240mm AIOs if you can manage to supply them with enough fresh air. My chosen case reflects that with massive airflow capabilities. So with all that said, I will list off the planned components and mods. Feedback is welcome but at this point the parts list is basically finalized including planned mods. CORE COMPONENTS: CPU: Ryzen 7 7800X-3D ($449.99 - May wait for sale, in no rush) GPU: Radeon RX 7900-XTX (Power Color Red Devil Edition - ALREADY OWN) RAM: 32GB (16 x 2) G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO RGB 6000MHz CL30 ($149.99) MotherBoard: B-650 Standard-ATX Gigabyte Aorus Pro ($249.99 - Will consider similar MoBo with similar feature set and Overclocking capabilities for a decent value) Power Supply: Seasonic Focus PX-850 [Platinum 850-Watt] (ALREADY OWN) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2TB NVME M.2 4.0 [Boot Drive + Core Applications + Most Important Games], Kingston NV2 4TB NVME M.2 4.0 [Mass Storage + Less Important Games] (ALREADY OWNED) CASE AND COOLING: PC Case/Chassis: Lian Li LanCool 216 ($99.99) CPU Cooler: DeepCool Assassin-IV (NOT RELEASED YET - Should be released in about the next month with a projected price of $119.99) Fan Upgrades: None Required Thermal Paste: Gelid GC Extreme - 3.5 Grams ($7.99 - Need Extra for Mods and other projects) Note: Mods will be done to enhance cooling, see Mods section below MODIFICATIONS: Ryzen 7800X-3D Lapping (0.8-1.0mm material removal): Thermal Grizzly Lapping Tool + Sand Paper ($19.99 + $19.99) Radeon Red Devil RX 7900-XTX Re-Paste: Gelid GC Extreme (Price Mentioned Earlier) MODIFICATION GOAL: The goal of these modifications is to provide enough thermal headroom for strong-ish overclocking on Air Cooling without pushing temps too far. BUILD THEME: Theme is centered around the Red Devil RX 7900-XTX. Components will be all black where possible with LED lighting set to Red with Meteor Effect. OTHER NOTES: I am in no rush to finish this build, I am looking to get a good value overall so I am willing to wait until the 7800X-3D goes on sale in the future or AM5 MotherBoards go even further down in price. I am willing to wait until as late as Black Friday 2023.

Hello everybody, my best friend just upgraded his computer and decided to give me his old hardware because he knows that I can't afford anything new for my PC. I know that the 4790k is an outdated chip (just watched Steve's new video on it) but it's still an upgrade to my old 3570k, low-end Z75 mobo and 8GB of RAM, plus it was for free, so why not install it? Next to the CPU itself, I got an ASRock Z97 Extreme 4/3.1 motherboard and a 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz DDR3 kit. After installing this "new" hardware, I did a few system stability tests and it quickly turned out that my CPU is overheating. After 5 seconds of AIDA64 CPU stress test, my temps jumped up to 100°C on one core, and about 90-95°C on the rest. The test reported 4-8% thermal throttling and my CPU core clock was staying anywhere between 4 and 4.2 GHz with some split second dips to 3.8-3.9 GHz. IIRC 100°C is below TJ max but I didn't want to cook my new, much appreciated hardware and stopped the testing after 5 minutes. I started to look at my idle temps which were quite high as well, about 40°C sitting on the Windows start screen and oddly about 55°C when I'm in the BIOS. The temps will start slowly creeping up by one degree at a time after 15-30 minutes. My CPU cooler is a Cooler Master 412S with the stock non-PWM CM fan replaced by an Arctic F12 Pro PWM that has quite an aggressive fan curve (I wear headphones, don't care about them sounding like a gas turbine). It ran my old i5 3570k (non-OC) at about 30°C idle and 55-60°C whilst gaming (never did a 100% load stress test though). My friend has a NH-U12S which allowed him to run this same CPU with an all-core 4.4GHz overclock at ~70°C. I know that the 4790k is a hot chip and my CM412S has worse performance than my friend's Noctua, but I still find my temps unrealistically high. I was looking at quite a few forums and CPU/cooler tests and it seems like that even the Intel stock cooler performs better than my cooler. A CM Hyper 212 EVO, which has comparable performance to my cooler, reaches about 85°C on a stress test according to one of the reviews I found. I thought that maybe I installed my cooler incorrectly so I removed it, replaced the thermal compound (the one CM included in the box), re-installed the heatsink, no change in temps. Then I repeated this again, this time also reinstalling the cooler's back plate because I read on a forum that an incorrectly installed back plate might cause issues, no change in temps. I removed my Arctic PWM fan and added CM's stock "silent" fan just out of curiosity, no change in temps. I removed the case's side panel for better airflow, no change. My ambient temp is 22°C. I started to mess around in software, I put my fans on maximum speed, no change; I put them on auto, no change. I started to look around the BIOS to see if maybe something's wrong there, but the only setting I changed after my friend reset his BIOS before giving it to me, was enabling XMP. The BIOS is running the latest "beta" version 1.71 that was released back in 2018 as a fix to Meltdown. All the core clock and voltage settings are on Auto, nothing has been touched. I get the following readings in BIOS as per the H/W Monitor: CPU Input Voltage: +1.792 V CPU Vcore: +1.048 V CPU Cache Voltage: +1.232 V System Agent Voltage: +1.112V CPU Analog IO Voltage: +1.168 V CPU Digital IO Voltage: +1.208 V Based on my search these are pretty much the standard values on this chip. Disabling XMP didn't change anything either. So to sum it up, I believe that my CPU should not run this piping hot and other reviews seem to confirm that, but seemingly there's nothing I did wrong and all of my remediate actions were unsuccessful. My last idea is to buy a better cooler, but I'm not exactly full of cash. I was looking at the Cryorig H5 Universal, which according to some tests should handle even a medium OC on this CPU, but I'm still finding it hard to believe that my current cooling setup is this inadequate (especially when the stock cooler seems to perform better based on other forum threads and tests). Any idea what could be wrong or what else should I try? My main concern is that what if I spend 50-60€ on a new, better cooler and get the same problem. I know that the CPU worked just fine a month ago in another system... Any help is much appreciated, thanks! Regards, specialist

Hi guys, I would like to proudly present my first time self-build PC after watching LLT and other youtuber content for years, with specs details as below: CPU - Ryzen 7800X3D GPU - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon RX 7900 XT RAM - Kingston Fury Beast 16GB (8GBx2) DDR5 6000 CL40 Motherboard - Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX (AM5) CPU Cooler - Thermalright Peerless Assassin SE Case - Phanteks P300A Storage - Gigabyte Aorus GEN4 7300 PCIE 4.0 NVME 1TB (Main boot Windows OS) Kingstonn NV2 Gen4 PCIE 4.0 NVME 2TB (2 pieces each for storage) PSU - Seasonic Focus GX-850 Fully Modular Case fan cooling configuration - Front: 2x Phanteks M25 140mm Rear: Phanteks 120mm (given from case) Top: Thermalright 120mm (I attached the picture of the final build as well) My feedback request and concerns: 1. Regarding of top fan cooling, I initially wanted to have 140mm Phanteks M25 Fan, but due to PSU-CPU power Cable as picture below, it won't fit, thus I choose to use CPU Cooler fan instead because I only purchase 140mm fan. Is there some missing thing in my build that makes it not possible to install 140mm fan for top? or my poor of choice of PC Case (I have checked that it 'supports' 140mm fan, but maybe there are something that I miss) 2. PSU-GPU power cable,in JayTwoCents video, he specifically says that to plug separate power cable to maximize potential GPU power draw, because each PSU cable is rated +-150W, since my Radeon RX 7900 XT is 300W TDP, it means that I will not achieve full potential of my GPU if I only attach one cable (with tail) Since it looks not really good-ish to have hanging cable, is it a common practice to prune/cut the tail unused cable? or it's fine to leave it that way unless I buy an extra premium cable to make it look better? I would appreciate if you guys could point out the flaw in my build and how to improve it (preferable without buying an expensive upgrade, LoL) Regards (There is no segue to sponsor, sorry)

My case is gigabyte c200 and i want to buy the antec A400I cpu cooler for my i5-11400 cpu. The thing is im afraid my motherboard the H510M-S2H wont be able to handle it and its fan may be hitting my green value ram sticks? Here is a picture with the stock cooler https://ibb.co/NKZxp1R Here is the case : https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.gigabyte.com/PC-Case/GB-C200G&ved=2ahUKEwjl1c_u89r-AhVHEsAKHZReD24QFnoECBgQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2LVTkuaBXkFLydAJaXc6n8 and here is the cpu cooler : https://www.antec.com/product/cooling/a400i im afraid it wont fit my MB neither my case..or will it and i should go for it?? I have been wanting it for a long time too.

I was just wondering which would be better for my system. I have a ryzen 7 5800x and an rx 6700 xt. I plan on trying to have my radiator on the outside of my case so all the fan slots are open. thanks!

Hi, What configuration is better in my Q300L? I have a 1660 super and a i7 3770. Single exhaust at the back or a single fan input at the front? Thank you in advance

Back when i had my 1660 super my CPU (i5-11400) never went above 76C while playing games. Yes there was stutters every now and then but not to the point of the games being unplayable. When i got a new case (Gigabyte c200) and an rtx 3070 i noticed the temps now top at 90C ? at full load on all cores? What is going on? reapplied my paste (Noctua NT-H1) and it didn't change anything if only 5 or 7 Degrees of a difference and it maxes out at 88 or 91 now (was 94 before). I do still have the stock cooler on my intel CPU and i will buy a good air cooler soon that's for sure. Only games i also noticed this was were cyberpunk and the last of us. any other game literally tops on 70-71. I tried asking a shop nearby and he said "The new generations all the way from the 11th to the 13th run very hot on the stock coolers. But they are strong they can take it" Yes but is 90-91 degrees safe ?! That's my question. i never noticed any throttling or issues while playing these games on max settings. and when i turn on my room AC the temp drops by like 12 degrees or something close to it. What do i do ? Do i turn turbo off from the bios ?