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I have an Old Canon Image Class MF3010 all in one Laser printer and Scanner. I use it maybe once a quarter. Lately it's been showing error code E202. Which points to issue in scanner. I tried replacing the scanner (CCD) cable but it didn't worked out. I don't want to invest any more money on it but on the same time I was looking if there's anyway I can just use to print documents rather than tossing the whole unit out. I had once wiped out the scanner head and it worked for few days. Since it shows error code for scanner it doesn't print either. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
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I tried to disassemble the lcd of my canon eos 650d because the lcd was vignetting and wanted to take a better look at the unit before i order the parts online. I was able to remove the bottom screw just fine. However, the top screw seemed to 'melt like butter' with the turning of my screwdriver. It offered no grip / resistance from the get go and just got cam-ed out / stripped. I would appreciate on suggestions on how to get this screw out.
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I was about to buy a new printer because my Canon MX492 was possessed and continually power cycling on boot up since 5/29/22. Issue: It started when I went to print something, and it said the printer was not responding. I went over to it, and found that it wasn't connected to the WiFi anymore. I tried connecting to my network, but it asked for the WPS button of course (who even uses that?), then had to go through the back menu to get advanced settings so I could put in a passcode.. When I was clicking through the menu, I clicked on WiFi, then the printer locked up, and power cycled.. After it went through the initial printer calibration, seeming like it would start, it made a "beep", and started over at initial power on. It only says "Canon" on the screen. No buttons are responsive. So, over to the Canon forums I go to find a plethora of other users having the same problem with my printer, but also many other models.. Solution to stop Boot Loop: Turn off WiFi... So far the only thing that's stopped it from booting besides unplugging it, is to turn off the Wireless Networks it is familiar with. In my UniFi controller, I disabled my Wireless Network while it was in a boot cycle, and it stopped doing it, and is now booted up... but the only option I now have is USB. - There are no firmware updates to fix this. No Solution: This seems pretty news worthy as a royal eff up on Canon's part.. Not sure if it was a bad firmware push, but these printers are basically bricked without them somehow getting a firmware pushed to them to fix the issue. Work Around: The issue is related to DNS. This can be solved by turning off your WiFi Access Point temporarily (or unplugging the Ethernet from the WAN port of your Router) so that the router/ap has no internet. The printer will turn on as it normally should. Go to Setup menu > Web Services > DNS Server Setup > Manual Setup Configure an IP Address from your internal network that isn't in use by any other device or specifically, not your DNS server. This makes it so the printer cannot make queries. After that's configured, press OK, and select the "NO" or "Off" option and press OK. Once that's completed, you can wait a few minutes and turn your WiFi back on. This should be a viable work around for most users. (Menu settings may vary) List of Printers affected so far: MX490x series MG7520 MG5020 MG6620 IP110 - Possibly same issue Community Articles from Canon: https://community.usa.canon.com/t5/Desktop-Inkjet-Printers/bd-p/desktopinkjetprinters?sort=recent No drivers newer than 10/04/21, but nothing about "firmware" either: https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/support/details/printers/inkjet-multifunction/mx-series-inkjet/mx492?tab=drivers_downloads
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Hello guys, im trying to install a Canon TS 3452 on an Ubuntu Laptop for a Customer. Im Absolutely new to Linux, so i dont have any Idea how to get that running. Dont know anything about Sudo or smth like this. This Printer only needs to be used through cable connection. Scanner is important too. Any Advice?
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Summary In an interview with Japanese newspaper Yomiuri Shimbun, Canon's chairman & CEO Fujio Mitarai stated that the company's development and production of flagship DSLRs will wound down "within a few years." Canon's current DSLR flagship, the EOS-1DX Mark III released in 2020, will be the last flagship DSLR model. Quotes There were some news publications like Y.M. Cinema and Photo Rumors interpreted Mitarai's words to mean that Canon has officially announced the end of all of their DSLR lines. Canon has responded that the scope of Mitarai's statement is only for their flagship DSLRs. It is expected that all production of their flagship DSLR to stop within a few years, although exact dates have not been confirmed. My thoughts This is very interesting now that Canon will officially move development and production towards mirrorless systems. It was known that mirrorless would take over and that the DSLR would die sometime. I'm excited for the future to see what new mirrorless systems Canon will come out with. Sources Y.M. Cinema PetaPixel
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Hi, I am curently looking into buying a Canon Full Frame Mirorless (probably RP or R). I have a question when it comes to the lens i should buy. Being on a restricted budget, i was thinking of going for the 24-105 F/4L for about 1000€ (1192 USD). But I saw on the same website the EF 24-105 F/4L for basically half the price... Is there a significant difference between the two. Or the EF+Adapter could be a very good budget friendly option for a trans-standard versatile zoom lens ? Thank you very much ! Have a nice day
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Hi, I need help with picking the bast camera for the money. I already have 2 Canon lenses, so it would be best to somehow use them. I would like to use it indoor and outdoor for shooting videos and photography. Also it would be nice feature if it was able to be used as webcam. Thanks, Dan
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New cinema camera from Canon that looks like a hybrid between the 5D lineup and their EOS C lineup. It is the first cinema camera to have a native RF mount. Quick rundown of the features. 4K Super 35mm DGO sensor 16+ stops of dynamic range Up to 4K 120fps 4:2:2 10-bit shooting capability, internally. Dual card slots Dual Pixel AF Pro I/O interfaces- XLR inputs, SDI, etc tons more! Leave your thoughts below! Also, I believe Brandon should unbox and review this camera. Would love to watch it! Source:
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Summary In July, Canon Japan released a marketing video showing the capabilities of their next-gen(?) image sensor. Along with the specs are showcase videos are test footage of what the HDR will look like. My thoughts This makes me super excited about APS-C, Micro 4/3rds and Super 35 sensor-based cameras in the future. Also makes me wonder how can companies leverage this tech to smaller platforms, i.e. laptops and mobile phones. I think it's hightime that laptop manufacturers started borrowing camera tech from companies like Sony and Canon and give us GOOD QUALITY webcams. It's 2020 and no webcam seems like a better option than a crappy 720p one. Sources
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Hi this may sound like a stupid question but if someone could help it would be much appreciated. I have a Canon 1300D. When I take a photo it looks fine; but recently when im taking video it seems as though there is some blue tint on the video? Anyone know why? Thanks.
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Cannon Launches the next gen full frame RF cameras, R5 and R6 the R5 does 8k raw and 4k 120, 45mp sensor 3900$ R6 does 4k60, 20mp sensor 2500$ both have IBIS, digic X processor, output 4k 60 4:2:2 10 bit, can focus at F22 with lenses R5 has issues recording for long periods of time due to heat RF lenses 85mm F2 macro 500g 5 stop IS stm motor 600$ 100-500mm F4.-7.1 1.35kg expands during zooms and only works with teleconverters over 300mm 5 stops of IS dual nano AF 2700$ 600mm F11 telli fixed f11 950g 5 stops of IS expands before shooting STM motor 700$ 800mm F11 telli fixed f11 1.2kg 4 stops of IS expands before shooting STM motor 900$ RF teleconverters 1.4x 500$ 2.0x 600$ My thoughts the r5 is a 5D mkIV replacement but I doubt the headline 8k video will get much use given in raw its 2600mb/s filling up a 512gb CF card in 20 mins which is also how long it takes the camera to overheat. the R6 is the better buy for video especially with an external recorder 85mm macros are nice, so far looks to be a good lens. it is cheaper than the L f1.2 85mm macro or 100mm L macro 100-500mm: I don't like non fixed aperture zooms but its a long zoom 600,800 the fixed aperture and expandable nature almost make these feel like spotting scopes, not a big fan of STM motors but not bad. teleconverters are useful and are a needed add-on Sources https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/explore/product-showcases/cameras-and-lenses/eos-r5 https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canon-eos-r6-initial-review https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canon-eos-r5-initial-review https://www.dpreview.com/articles/9552347046/hands-on-with-canon-s-new-rf85mm-f2-macro-is-stm https://www.dpreview.com/articles/3349669626/hands-on-with-new-canon-rf-100-500mm-600mm-and-800mm-telephoto-lenses
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So I am not sure if anyone is going to be able to help here but ill give it a go: I use a remote trigger for my Canon EOS 800D and I opened it up to find a motherboard (I think) and the wire for the AUX (3.5mm Headphone jack) to plug into the camera. How does they do they get the code onto the motherboard and is there any way I would be able to see the code on the motherboard? I would also like to view the code on the motherboard to code my own similar device. My thinking is that if I was to code a similar program and run it off a phone or tablet with a proper User Interface it would be a fun project to try and do. I have tried looking this up however it seems this isn't a very common topic lol. Below are the images of the motherboard if it helps in any way?
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Afternoon, A very exciting piece of software came out on the 28th April 2020. ¬For more on this visit this link. https://1.shortstack.com/VChq6Z I was wondering if anybody could help me because I have a 50d. Is their a way it can be coded so I can use my camera?? I would be grateful if any one could help, as needed for my work over my not so good webcam.
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All recommendations have been removed since they were outdated and incomplete.Thank you GDRRiley! Disclaimer: I don’t consider myself as a good photographer there is always room for improvement (Especially when you look what photos the pro's are able to pull off). This information is what I have gathered over a few years of experience. This post have been written because I know that I would have learned much faster if I had begun reading just a few short articles or posts and I want to help the person who is standing in the same situation as I did a few years ago. There have been written whole books on this topic and there is much more to learn than the technological aspect of photography, but I hope that this has at least helped one person to understand something that he/she didn't before. The examples are as of may 2020 A guide to Digital Photography and Cameras I wan't to preface this saying that this is not a video guide, though some of the information might be useful. I have personally owned a few cameras over the years. Canon 1Dx, (5D mark II Very shortly) and now own a Canon 5Ds, M50, gopro and lots of dji film drones (i will make a separate thread with those if people want it), all that with a nice supply of lenses (i can also make separate guide to those). So it's quite obvious that i have very little experience with other camera brands like Nikon or Sony. I base my recommendations in this topic on my own research and experience with cameras. I will from the start recommend one very simple and quick step, and that is to do your own research in advance of buying cameras and a lot of it. This post is for people to make their own informed decisions, i’m not taking any responsibility for any choices made by others. I would also like to come with a classic saying which is “it’s not the camera that’s important, but the person behind it” I think this is very true and gear isn’t everything. This video by Peter Mckinnon an absolutely great youtuber really shows it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8LOoQxSi8M&t=318s. I will state that my experience mainly comes from nature and wildlife photography I have limited experience shooting street photography. I might have a bias especially towards how important good autofocus is since it's the thing that have let me down the most times in wildlife photography and is really important for me. Mirrorless vs DSLR Pros: Right now mirror less cameras are very tempting, and for good reason, they are generally speaking lighter. They also have electronic viewfinders which i see as a major plus especially as a beginner, since you can see the exposure. The flange distance (the distance between lens and sensor) is smaller since there is no mirror between lens and sensor, this means you can adapt older lenses to the mirror less camera like the canon ef to rf adapter or ef to Sony-e. So now you have several series of lenses you can use on your cameras. (Nikon is a bit special since autofocus won’t work on all of their old lenses with their Nikon-f to ftz adapter because some of them requires an internal AF motor) you can’t adapt the other way round so you can’t adapt a canon rf lens to a canon ef mounted camera because of the flange distance it was designed to use. This means that you have the best of both worlds, there are also other pros to shorter flange distance that are very technical and that I won't dive into in this post. Cons: But the downsides are also major, like awful battery performance in some cases 1/5 of a dslr equivalent and slow (but more precise so better for very low aperture lenses) auto focus, that's just how contrast autofocus is right now, this can be a pro or a con, but newers models of mirrorless cameras use both phase detect and contrast so you both hit the focus right on and have the speed of the phase detect. While that is said some older dslr’s also use contrast autofocus so a good amount of research is recommended in advance. Conclusion: Mirrorless is definitely the future so if you have the opportunity to go mirrorless it's sometimes a better start. With that said there are still fantastic dslr cameras out there and with the different lens adapters you can easily upgrade down the line. With newer mirrorless cameras they also have smart integration some cameras like the sony A7R III have the ability to track the eye of a bird and such. This is very useful especially for a person like me that likes wildlife photography. ISO: Very simply explained ISO is essentially a setting that can brighten up your photo. The higher the value the more sensitive your sensor becomes to light. Therefore it gets brighter this comes with a catch: the higher the ISO value the more noise there is in the picture (the less quality there is), so you should always have the lowest ISO possible with reasonable shutter speeds. If you have you'r ISO set at 100 your picture will get double as bright if you set your ISO to 200 and 4 times as bright if you set it to 400 ISO. I would generally try to have my ISO as low as possible while getting the sharpest pictures, it’s hard sometimes getting 1/250s shutter speeds at 100 ISO, and that’s the point where I crank it up. So ISO performance is a crucial part of getting a new camera, generally newer cameras have good ISO performance. Auto focus: Auto focus is a really important part of a camera and can mean the difference between you getting a photo or not. There are many types of auto focus, but a good rule of thumb is that older mirrorless cameras have very slow auto focus, older DSLRs are a bit more forgiving in this topic, but auto focus in general is essential since it can even mess up photos that are still. Mirror less cameras use contrast autofocus which moves the focus point back and forth until it finds the right focus point with the most contrast, thus it's more accurate but slower, the newer mirrorless cameras combine contrast and the phase detect autofocus we know from dslr's so they have the best of both worlds(Autofocus capability varies from camera to camera so research it thoroughly before getting a new camera). The main advantage to phase detect is that it's generally considered to be faster than contrast autofocus, but less accurate, so that's the trade off between the two. I would say though that modern phase detect autofocus is very accurate and I have no problem relying on it. face detect and eye autofocus has also been increasingly more accurate in recent years especially Sony have been known for their incredible autofocus. Sensor sizes: There is a lot of sensor sizes out there and this is an essential part of choosing your camera. Sensor size determines a lot in your camera and the sensor size also effectively determines the crop factor (How much of the image you can see). There is a lot of disadvantages and advantages to different sensor sizes and i will go through some of them now. If we have two cameras with the same amount of megapixels in the let's say 20. The bigger the sensor is the bigger the pixels on the sensor are. This essentially means that the individual pixels on the big sensor can absorb and therefore detect more light improving low light performance. The larger pixels also creates less noise which boils down to less noise at higher ISO's which means that you can turn your ISO higher up and shoot pictures in darker situations (This is extremely dependent on the camera you buy, but this is just in general). The smaller the sensor is, the bigger the crop factor is. You essentially see less of the image, you can compare it to zooming with a lens. so if you have an Canon aps-c sized sensor you can multiply your lens’s focal length by 1.6x (nikon 1.5x) and a micro 4/3 you can multiply it by 2x. Though it's not really the same because you will have the same background blur on a 400mm f/2.8 if it's on fullframe camera or a aps-c camera. On the aps-c camera you just see less of the overall picture, so sometimes background blurring can be a problem. Most common sensor sizes: 2/3" (not to be confused with 1/2.3" or 1/3.2") The 2/3" form factor is one typically found in gopros and in some mobile phones. This is rarely used in camera bodies and generally not a sensor size I would recommend for still shooting, but for video work I will say it's decent and I like the video quality of my gopro hero 6. Micro 4/3" Is a very popular sensor size for video work. I have heard many good things about this sensor size and I will recommend it for video capturing. Like the GH5 from panasonic. I will on the other hand not recommend it for still shooting. It is definitely possible to do so, but I would recommend bigger sensor sizes. This sensor type has a 2x crop factor so a 100mm lens will become a 200mm on a 4/3" sensor size camera. APS-C This sensor size is extremely popular and if you go down to a camera store, chances are that the camera body you are looking at probably has an aps-c sensor in it. This sensor size is very versatile, but generally aimed towards beginners or people who wants a little more range with their cameras for example if you are a wildlife photographer you can get away with using cheaper telescopic lenses because the crop factor here is on a canon sized sensor 1.6x (nikon 1.5x)so a 100mm lens becomes a 160mm (nikon 150mm) lens. Fullframe/35mm film This sensor type is for the enthusiast and pro. It's been the go to choice for professionals for many years. These sensors are used in high end camera bodies and are not beginner sensors. What I mean by that is how full frame sensors amplify your small mistakes like pictures that are not in focus and sharpness. I will only recommend a somewhat experienced photographer to buy full frame cameras. Lenses for these cameras are also in general more expensive, so it's the more expensive, but better option overall. Full frame sensors have a 1x crop factor so a 100mm lens is a 100mm lens on a full frame camera. Medium Format While this format differentiates in size a person who would buy a digital camera with a medium format sensor, should know more about photography than me (don’t know if that says much). These are only used in cameras that are made for the professionals, that both need the insane amount of megapixels they are capable of, but also the color depth. These are only for professionals and not anything I would ever recommend for a beginner. It's like an amplified full frame sensor it has all the benefits, but also all the cons, and are specialized equipment. It’s crop factor varies because of the varying sizes of medium format sensors. Lenses: Lenses are hard to choose and I will also make my recommendations very short on modern lenses, but don’t look at the overall score though that says very little about the lens, look at the individual scores instead. I’m recommending lenses that and to the point. There are many things to look out for in a lens and that’s for good reason. I recommend visiting dxomark.com and look at their benchmarks. The things i usually look for the most is sharpness and vignetting, if you buy older lenses, watch out for distortion and chromatic aberration which are less of a problem would personally have interest in keeping for the future. Lens sharpness and lens quality: A crucial step in choosing lenses is lens sharpness. I use DXOmark and Thedigitalpicture to determine lens sharpness. Sharpness is how good the lens reproduces the picture on the sensor of your camera. If you have a 42 megapixel camera, but a bad lens you might only have a resolution of 20 megapixels in some cases even worse. This adds a whole new dimension to lens choices and a crucial step that is easily overlooked while being crucial for mage quality. DXOmark tests sharpness on lenses so I recommend to look on their website for comparisons. Another really important aspect though not as important in my opinion since they are often correlated is lens aberrations. Lens aberrations can sometimes ruin a good picture and they occur when light in a lens is reflected wrongly as of my understanding. I use "thedigitalpicture" to determine the amount of aberrations there is under controlled conditions, though I also read reviews since aberrations rarely occur under controlled conditions. Newer lenses often has way less aberrations than older generations with the introduction of aspherical elements and so on. So lenses improve over time though at a lesser pace than camera bodies which is why camera lenses generally are a better investment than camera bodies over time. Focal length: This can get very technical, but it's not important to dig very deep to understand focal lengths in general. In simple terms focal length is your camera's field of view. A focal length of 135mm has a field of view of 18° degrees while a focal length of 200mm has one of 12° degrees (On fullframe cameras mind you!, look in the sector for for cropfactors). So the bigger the focal length the more "zoomed in'' you are. Now this can be greatly affected by cropfactors and other such things. So focal length determines how much your camera sees and is crucial for your choice in lenses. F/#: is the amount of light coming into the lens, the lower the aperture is the more light is let in which translates to faster shutter speeds or lower iso. For example a F/2.8 lens has double the amount of light coming into it versus a F/4 so the lower the value the better. One stop more light is two times the light coming into the lens. You can calculate stops of light by dividing or multiplying your aperture or F/# by 1.4x. So a lens that lets double the light of an F/2.8 lens is 2.8/1.4=2 so an aperture of f/2 let's double as much light in as an f/2.8 lens. F-stop and focal length also determines the background blur, the lower the f-stop the more background blur is produced, focal length also greatly affect this topic. So if you want more background blur search for lenses that has a low f-stop that let in more light and a longer focal length. T/#: This is mostly relevant for video work. A T-stop is how much light a lens let's through, while an f-stop is a physical size calculated from the physical aperture size and focal length of the lens. If i understood it correctly t-stops are calculated from how much light a lens transmits. So a perfect f/2 lens would have a t-stop of t/2, this is only a hypothetical scenario though since it's impossible to have perfect light transmission in a lens. IS/VR/OS: All these are different terms for optical stabilization. Which is an optical stabilizer within the lens that stabilizes your pictures so you have a higher chance of getting a sharp photo. Sometimes it might pay off to get a lens that let's less light in, but has optical stabilization which allows longer shutter exposures. Remember to turn the stabilizer off if you have your camera on a tripod and need to expose it for more than 1 second. Since the optical stabilization can interfere with a long exposure image. Ultrasonic and Stepper motors There are mainly two types of lens motors in use. Stepper motors which are generally considered more smooth and silent versus their ultrasonic counterparts which in general are considered quicker at focusing. I've heard and read that stepper motors are generally preferred for video work since they focus more smoothly. Now I could go on and recommend a lot of lenses, but then this post would get very long. I recommend Ken Rockwell’s website or "the digital picture". Both write very useful reviews Ken Rockwell does also make recommendations on his website which have helped me in the past. The digital picture also makes great reviews and they have a very usefull feature where you can go on and see the sharpness of lenses by looking at real pictures taken with the same camera using different lenses. DXOmark is also a fantastic website. I mainly use it to see how sharp the different lenses are and how "fast" they are or how much light they let in. If I need to make any additions please write a comment in the thread below. I’m open for critique. This is after all my first major post in this forum. And also please make your own informed decisions and not entirely based on this post. I'm as stated in the top not taking any responsibility for any choices made based on this post. I’ve also only chosen Canon related gear since it’s the brand I'm most familiar with, I know that Nikon and Sony make great cameras too and they might be better for you. My information is also based on a lot of stuff I've read over the years and general experience so i'm not a master at photography, at all!
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Hi! I bought a battery grip for my canon 200D/SL2 from B&H (the Vello BG-17). When I plug in the included shutter cable for the secondary trigger button on the grip, my screen goes black. The camera still works tho, the button on the camera aswel as the one on the grip. toughts? thanks!
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I wanted to learn more about photography, and know more about the "professional" modes and really properly shoot great photos. Is the Canon EOS 4000D a good camera, does it have attachments that can help it become more... PRO? I already own it, so give me your opinion and some advice.
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Hi guys, so a friend of my just sold his 450D and a 18-55mm IS kit lens to me, but the kit lens has a black spot in between the lens, and i'm planning to buy a new lens. I've found the following used lenses: -EF-S 18-55mm f4:5.6 STM(around 40$) -EF 50mm f1.8 II (around 45$) -EF 50mm f1.8 STM (around 65$) So what would be a good replacement? A newer kit lens (18-55mm f4:5.6 STM) or a prime lens (50mm f1.8 II/STM)? Is there any differences between the two 50mm lenses i mentioned above? T4R
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Aside from showcasing phones, TVs, sensors, automated driving and other bits of tech, CES also seems to be a hot place for the launch of some new camera equipment. And it seems that the crowd-pleaser is the launch of the EOS-1DX Mark III, Canon's latest entry in the EOS 1-D line of flagship professional-oriented sports camera, aimed at photojournalists, sports and wildlife photographers. EOS-1DX Mark III There are some other big launches as well, notably Nikon's new D780 DSLR, an update to the brilliant-but-aging D750. Nikon D780 Aside from all the big guns, there were some other small announcements, which include but are not limited to; The unveiling of a physical Nikon D6 body but without any other information aside from that. The Nikon Coolpix P950 ultrasuperzoom bridge camera, now with 4K recording, an improved EVF and support for RAW files. The Nikkor Z 70-200 f/2.8S lens launch for $2600 and shipping in February alongside a Nikkor 120-300 F-Mount lens for $9500. Canon confirming that no new EF lenses are in development, with all new lenses being for RF "unless there is demand". Source(s); Opinion time;
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Hey so I’ve been into photography for a while now, I am currently using a canon 200d with a sigma 18-250 f3.5 lens and I was wondering whether it would be better to upgrade to a new body or new lense the options are: canon 5d Mkii with battery grip canon 17-40mm f4 lens my main idea was that I would like to upgrade to the canon 5d because of it being full frame and considering I’m going travelling over Christmas this year the dual battery might be worth it, what would be the best option ?
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Hello there. a new forum member here. Avid watcher of LTT on his YT channel. Anyhow my issue is that my Canon printer won’t recognize my black original Canon cartridge at all. I’ve tried all troubleshooting steps I could find, like cleaning the nozzle, rubbing the contact points with a dry cloth etc. But it won’t just detect it. In the attached picture as you can see, there’s a warning symbol light right above the “B” icon. That light flashes 4 times in quick succession and repeats. After some digging I found out it means it’s not able to detect a cartridge or the cartridge isn’t installed properly. I read somewhere that it requires both color and black cartridges to be installed to work. Can anyone help out?
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Hello, I have started exploring photography by utilizing my sister's unused Canon EOS 600D Body + CANON 50mm lens & Sigma 70-300mm macro lens. I am now on a verge of purchasing a wide lens, aiming for the CANON 10-18mm to be exact (for video recording purposes mostly) Is it worth it to buy 2nd hand or buy new one? What would be the pros and cons? Any suggestions? Thank you in advance!
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Hello everyone, I just uploaded a video to youtube that looked great in editing and export until it was up on youtube. It looks really bad there. I am so confused why... any ideas or tips. I export from premiere pro with max bitrate and video quality. I feel the video on youtube looks grey and grainy. Let mek know your guys opinion. Filmed on canon 80D
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Hi people in the LTT forum! I'm hobby photographer who likes to do alot of stuff under low ligth conditions. especially when it comes to shooting the milkyway, i get into some trouble. im shooting with Canon 80D, a solid DSLR but it has a cropped Sensor. i know the lens is very if not more important for doing such things but still, most videos/vlogger/tutorials tell me that cropped sensor just arent as good in low ligt as a Full frame sensor. Especially when bumping up the ISO above 3200, the 80D starts to look kinda crappy. Does anyone have expierence shooting stars or low light in generall with the 6D mark II Does it make sense to sell the 80D to get a 6D mark II, wich according to reviews shouldbe really good in low light conditions.
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Hello. So I am considering buying my first camera, for now I am using the Huawei p20 pro which has really nice camera but I want to step it up a notch with a real camera. I have concluded that either the Sony A6000 or Canon EOS M50 is my best option in my prige range. Both are at 5000 NOK with the kit lense. Done my research on the interweb and I have seen that alot of people still recommed the Sony even though it is 4 years old. Was wondering what you guys and girls would recommend for a beginner. The camera is going to be used.on trips and on work etc.. I need to be able to send the pictures to my phone, but as what I understand both of them ha e the option to do that. I am not a vlogger så 4k is useless for me, 1080p is good enough, if i am gonna film it is gonna be timelapses. Soo help please to decide and advice me. Thank you :)