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Hey guys, I want to to a black and red build and I want a z170 motherboard but i don´t know which is the best and fits the theme so I wanted to ask you guys for help.

Hey guys, I want to build a new PC. I want to do a black and red build and I already picked everything but the case because I don´t really know what is good and bad about a case so i hoped that you guys could help me find a new case. And what I also wanted to ask is if I should change the standard fans that come with the case because they are not good or something or if they are good enough? Already thank you for your help

Here is the finished (for now) build with the new tempered glass s340 matte white and black case. The case looks gorgeous and tempered glass makes everything really pop. Used TF 120 Deep Cool white LED Fans and the DEEPCOOL Gamer Storm CAPTAIN 120EX WHITE CPU Liquid Cooler along with white LED magnetic lighting. Going to get some custom Vinyl covers for the SSD and glass along with some Imperial themed fan covers as well. Eventually will add white LED DDR4 ram, and 2 more SSD's with vinyl decals as well but for now can't argue with the results. CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core 4.0 ghz - Overclocked to 4.6 ghz MOTHERBOARD: MSI LGA 1511 White/Black Krait Gaming X3 RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB DDR4 2400 Silver GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 SC White Led CASE: NZXT s340 Elite Matte Black/White STORAGE: Mushkin Enhanced Reactor 2.5" 1TB SATA III PSU: EVGA 210-GQ-1000-V1 1000W DISPLAY(S): 2 Acer 24 IPS 80hz 1080p COOLING: DEEPCOOL Gamer Storm CAPTAIN 120EX WHITE CPU Liquid Cooler KEYBOARD: Koolertron White LED Eagle Gaming Mechanical Keyboard MOUSE: War Wolf 3000 DPI Led Gaming Mouse SOUND: Creative 10 2.0 Desktop Speakers. MIC: BLUE Snowball Matte White Mic OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10

I built my first PC and went to check if it worked. I have my parts list in the attached excel spreadsheet. A problem previous to this is only having a system fan and cpu fan header when I have a cpu cooler that takes up both headers for one fan however I am in the process of buying something for that (Any suggestions would be very useful). When I was checking if it worked, I plugged in my mouse, keyboard and HDMI cable into the PC and turned it on only to find a black screen and after a few seconds, the PC restarts. I checked everything was working. The HDD was moving, the fan on my CPU water cooler worked, my GPU fan worked however there was nothing on my screen. I first disconnected my SATA storage devices as I have a M.2 SSD and checked if it would work but nothing changed. I proceeded to take off my GPU and wireless pci-e adapter however there was no change. I then went and unplugged and re-plugged my cords bu that also did not work. I do not know what else I can do. Anything commented is very much appreciated and if you require me to send more information of some kind please ask. I am a complete novice when it comes to this stuff so I apologise if the problem is incredibly obvious. Thank you very much. PC Build (Autosaved) Safe.xlsx

Hi everyone, In Januari I have bought a prebuild pc, from the start I've been experiencing crashes. Its ingame after some time at higher settings. My pc is still on but it gives me a vertical striped screen or no input on my ultra wide monitor. I have replaced my mobo,my ram, gpu, cpu, I have bought the seidon 120v watercooling and the problem still occurs. Hopefully someone can help me out. // pc specs: MSI RX 480 GAMING X 8G FX 6300 M5a97 r2 Techsolo 650w 1tb seagate HDD 120gb SSD EDIT: By prebuild I mean that I've bought it on a 2ndhand website by another person. The pc was new.

iBUYPOWER's Black Friday Sale event is on now! You can check out all of their deals at: http://www.ibuypower.com/r/linustechtips2

Hey guys. So I purchased a 1TB Western Digital Black about a month ago and whenever I turn off my computer, it has a very loud whining (almost screeching) noise coming from it. I know its the new HDD since disconnecting it does stop the noise from happening. I've ran WD diagnostics on it and it passed the SMART and extended tests. Apart from this noise at shutdown, the drive works just fine. I haven't heard any clicks of death noises from it either, only this high pitched noise. I can't seem to find anyone else with a similar problem so I've decided to try my luck here. Is this noise a sign of a failing hard drive? I'm a bit hesitant to RMA the drive since I've heard horror stories that the refurbished drives that WD send back end up failing quickly. Noise (starts at 0:04): This noise can be clearly heard even when my case is closed.

Hi, so i bought a completly new pc and monitor from acer, i have the latest drivers installed and everything but for some reason the screen just turns off for almost a second and powers on real quick, this doesn't happen to often but lets say i start the pc and start CS GO, then maybe as soon as i get flashed for the first time the screen goes BRIGHT WHITE (like it supposed to do when u get flashed :D) And then turns off and back on real quick, its like its protecting from the bright light. Does anyone has a clue why this is? But then i can play normally for hours tried to flash myself like 50 times in a row, nothing happens.. Then randomly maybe a few hours later this can happen again. Thats one example, another is when i toggle from an application or open a browser with a new page that is really bright etc. i tried diffrent cabling both hdmi and dvi.. Does anyone have an idea? I read this, but it didn't help me out too much.. Help would be really appreciated, Thanks.

Hi all, I have recently started visiting LAN events within the UK and I am really starting to enjoy visiting them! However, my only gripe is that I have to travel with my fairly large and heavy PC all the way there and around the event etc. Anyway, I have recently got some funds together and I would like to build a Mini ITX build for these events so that I have a dedicated LAN PC. This will mean that I can just leave my "Home" PC at home and my "LAN" PC can be used at LAN events! Requirements; Max budget of £1000 GBP (I do not need peripherals or Monitor). I will probably be buying a couple of parts per month so a few £££ over the £1k budget wont harm i'm sure. White and Black colour scheme although i'd prefer more white than Black if possible. (Case should definitely be white) I tend to play games such as Overwatch, CS:GO, Apex Legends and other "LAN" type games so it should be able to easily run those with potentially some headroom for things such as Battlefield V, GTA V etc. Should have some RGB such as the RAM and Fans at least (personal preference i guess) It can be either Intel or AMD, whatever you want to suggest, go for it! Should be AIO watercooled. I am up to suggestions based on your knowledge and expertise! If you have the time to build me a full PC on PcPartPicker please do, or if you only have time to suggest a couple of parts please do as well. I will appreciate all the help I can get. I just do not want to rush into this build without getting some opinions from you guys first! If you dont take up the whole budget thats obviously okay. Im not going to complain about having money left over but its there to be spent if needs be! My current specs are in the signature below if you wanna see what my current build looks like (I kinda like corsair ;) ) Thanks for your time and i'll keep you all updated as to what I end up building! If you need any further information please ask! Thanks! Jacob

Having an issue with regard to AMD's Radeon software. Whenever I record, instant replay, or in-game replay, the output file displays a black screen with only audio to speak of. GPU - ASUS DUAL RX580 8GB If any more relevant info is needed, I'd be happy to provide. EDIT: Well, Sh*t. The issue's been fixed, I just had to download the latest Radeon software version, if this problem is occuring to you, do the same.

Hey I was looking for a new case for my pc and I had settled on the inwin 101 cause I like the look but I’m not sure if I should get white or black. I’ve never done a white build before and it might look cool but everything else in my pc and in my setup is black so it wouldn’t match. I’m just wondering if someone with more experience could give an opinion on what to do. Thanks

Ok so basically... PC upgrade time. My plan is to switch up my very simple, boring, but pretty system by moving towards a less empty feeling tower with #matteblackallthethings and RGB illumination with metal colours here and there. What I picture in my head is so beautiful that it must come to life, so here we are. I will be creating a custom water cooling loop within a small form factor with soft tubing - thick, matte black, soft tubing, with as little fittings as possible. The majority will say hard tubing is much sexier than soft tubing, and from a certain standpoint, this may be an obvious thought. HOWEVER, you're all forgetting that soft tubing has natural curves... OK enough of that talk, I just personally think its a better look in this case and for a first time custom water cooler, I'd prefer to take the easy route anyways. This isn't just a form PC, I'd say it's a 50/50 form & function PC. ______________________ I'm currently running: - Case: Anidees Ai Crystal Lite - CPU: Intel i5 8600k 6 cores OC @ 4.7GHz - CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid 240 - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-F - RAM: GSkill Trident Z RGB 2x8GB @ 3200MHz - GPU: ASUS STRIX 1070 08G (OC Edition) Stock - PSU: Seasonic FOCUS Plus 650W Gold with custom CableMod Pro cables for CPU, ATX, and GPU - Storage: Samsung 970 EVO Plus M.2 SSD 250GB (boot drive), Samsung 850 EVO SATA 250GB, and a Seagate 1TB HDD - Case Fans: 5x Thermaltake Riing LED White 120mm (3 in front for intake & 2 radiator fans on top for exhaust) What I am planning on running: - Case: NZXT H510 Elite - CPU: Intel i5 8600k 6 cores OC @ whatever I can get it to (5.2GHz+?) - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-F - RAM: GSkill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB @ 3200MHz - GPU: NVIDIA RTX 2070 Super - PSU: Seasonic FOCUS Plus 650W Gold with custom CableMod Pro cables for CPU, ATX, and GPU - Storage: Samsung 970 EVO Plus M.2 SSD 250GB (boot drive), Samsung 850 EVO SATA 250GB, and a Seagate 1TB HDD - Case Fans: 3x Corsair LL140 RGB (2x push intake on front & 1x exhaust on top), 1x Corsair LL120 RGB (push exhaust on rear), and 1x Noctua MF-R8 80mm (custom mounted intake at bottom of front to cool basement) As for the water cooling, I'm going to be slapping a water block on both my CPU and GPU including a 150mm reservoir, a D5 pump, a 280mm radiator, and a 120mm radiator. - CPU Block: EK Velocity RGB - Nickel + Acetal - GPU Block: EK Vector RTX RE RGB - Nickel + Acetal - Radiators: EK CoolStream SE 120 (Slim Single), EK CoolStream SE 280 (Slim Dual) - Reservoir: SC Protium 150mm - Black Acetal with 2x SC Ethereal Single Reservoir Mount - Black, 2x SC 140mm Back Plate, and 2x SC 140mm Mounting Rails (4x) - Pump: EK -XTOP Revo D5 - Black Acetal with EK-UNI Holder 50/70 - Fittings: 12x EK-ACF 13/19mm - Black Nickel, EK-AF T-Splitter 3F - Black Nickel, EK-AF 90° Angled - Black Nickel, 2x EK-AF 16mm Rotary Extender M-M - Black Nickel, 3x EK-AF 6mm Extender M-M - Black Nickel, 2x EK-AF Pass-Through - Black Nickel, 4x EK-CSQ Plug - Black Nickel, EK-AF Ball Valve - Black Nickel - Tubing: EK-Tube ZMT 13/19mm - Matte Black - Coolant: Distilled Water with 1x or 2x EK-CryoFuel Clear 100mL Concentrate ______________________ The 280mm radiator will be placed at the front of the case in a push configuration with the reservoir mounted onto it using 2 mounts with several plates and rails to get the optimum position, trying to keep in-line with other components. The 120mm radiator will be positioned at the back of the case also in push configuration. Directly below the reservoir would be the pump mounted sideways on a couple universal brackets with outlet pointing towards the power supply. ______________________ The loop will go from the reservoir to the pump by drilling a hole directly between the two in the cable bar & basement ceiling and using pass through ports and different fittings. It will exit the pump into a 3-way t-splitter fitting that'll split to a ball valve draining port and ahead to a 90° angled fitting back up to the basement ceiling. With another pass through port in a second drilled hole in-line with the first, the loop will head up to the right-hand GPU block port as the graphics card will be mounted vertically. Then out the left-hand GPU block port to the right 120mm radiator port, out the left and into the CPU block inlet port. From here it will go from the CPU block outlet port to the right 280mm radiator port, out the left, and back into the reservoir. One of the 90° ports on the top of the reservoir will lead to another drilled hole with pass through port on the inside panel to be used as a filling port. ______________________ I will also invest in a few other pieces to the puzzle: - Phanteks 220mm PCIE 90° Riser Cable ~for the vertical graphics card mount. - An extra 6-Pin PCIE cable from CableMod to power the graphics card and match the other cables. - Corsair Commander Pro & Corsair RGB Fan Hub ~to support & control all the fans and their RGB lighting. - A custom designed fan grill for the top 140mm fan, to hide the ugly back of fans and give it a completely different look whilst still letting RGB goodness shine through. - A custom cut mirrored acrylic PCIE shelf that can 'clip in' to the highest short PCIE slot to hold light ornaments / figurines. - Possibly an EK-Vector RTX Backplate - Nickel ~in-case I cannot remount the founders edition stock back plate. - Possibly a Matte Black dbrand laptop skin to wrap the reservoir if I do not like the look of clear water in a clear plastic cylinder. - Possibly, down the line, a custom real neon or NeonPlus LED sign to be hung in the middle somewhere. ______________________ SO... In conclusion, after all that, I should end up with a well planned, fully functional, fully beautiful computer where no purchase decisions end up being wrong. To counter that completely, I will buy the parts sequentially rather than all at once, so I can double check measurements etc. Now the reason for having a small fan cooling the basement is because pumps tend to get quite hot, so best to circulate some air down there too. I also have a CableMod 30cm RGB strip that I will locate vertically along the back left edge of the case, facing across (not into) the case and graphics card. I will also be removing the 3.5" drive bays to allow enough room in basement. Before I create a huge hole in my financial pocket, can I get some peoples opinions on this build? Along with any concerns towards measurements, compatibility, missing components, or advice. Questions I have currently: - Where do I mount the Commander Pro and LED Hub? - If a PCIE slot can hold a graphics card with help from an expansion slot or two, then can a short PCIE slot hold up a piece of acrylic? - How flexible is 13/19mm soft tubing? - Will I need more or less than 1L of coolant in this loop? - Can I trust local stores to supply perfect distilled water without any additives? Thank you very much, Sam

So for a while, actually a REALLY REALLY long time, I been having this weird issue and still haven't figured out why is it doing it. I am trying to record from my other computer, but for some reason I have this green bar down below, a black bar to the right, and the rest of the display has moved up to the upper left. But for some dumb reason it works perfectly fine if I plug in my Nintendo Switch. I even tried calling them for support to get help but either they don't pick up and when they do they can't help. Anyone else had this problem or know how to fix it?

So for a while, actually a REALLY REALLY long time, I been having this weird issue and still haven't figured out why is it doing it. I am trying to record from my other computer, but for some reason I have this green bar down below, a black bar to the right, and the rest of the display has moved up to the upper left. But for some dumb reason it works perfectly fine if I plug in my Nintendo Switch. I even tried calling them for support to get help but either they don't pick up and when they do they can't help. Anyone else had this problem or know how to fix it? I have posted this before under computer hardware > display, but since no one helped me there and I noticed it is mostly only about monitors, I re-posted it here.

I will change my WD Black 1TB to 4TB ones but I found WDC Ultrastar in same store, the price different only lik 4/5 USD What should i get ? 1. WDC 4TB SATA3 64MB - Black Ver.2 2. WDC 4TB Ultrastar DC HC310 I using this HDD for Steam Games And All Apps I Have on PC.

Introduction: Today I have tested 5 versions of the popular Black lines of Kailh, Gateron and Cherry. I'll be giving out up to 5 points per switch, giving 5 to the best, 1 to the worst on each part. This is all based off opinion, and your preference may vary on some parts. Gateron Black: Key stability: 3/5 RGB passthrough: 2/5 Lubing: 3/5 Sound: 2/5 Smoothness: 3/5 Weight: 5/5 Value: 5/5 To start with the cheapest of the line: Gateron black. They can be found for as low as 20 cents/switch and are a great step-in point if you want something that feels like a heavier red. Their key stability is decent, RGB passthrough unfortunately really not good, for this you should get an RGB version. Their smoothness is actually quite decent for the price, especially after lubing i did enjoy the quick session of gaming i did with it. with their lower travel and relatively light weight compared to others I'd sure recommend it. Gallary: Gateron Milk Black: Key stability: 4/5 RGB passthrough: 3/5 Lubing: 4/5 Sound: 4/5 Smoothness: 2/5 Weight: 4/5 value 4/5 Then a slightly different, but similar switch. Gateron's Milk black has a top housing that's white rather than transparent, giving it a bit of a special look. I felt like the key stability on it was a bit better, the RGB passthrough are still wishes to be found, but it's still better than the normal one as well. I felt a bit of sand-like feeling at stock, but a lot of it lost when I lubed it. the sound of it becomes a bit clacky when doing this as well. the smoothness on itself I gave rather low because of its stock performance. the weight is highly enjoyable for the short session I played, though the normal ones felt a little better on this. because they generally cost only a little more than regular blacks (24c/switch), I’m giving them a 4/5 on value. Gallery: Gateron Ink Black: Key stability: 1/5 RGB passthrough: 4/5 Lubing: 5/5 Sound: 5/5 Smoothness: 5/5 Weight: 2/5 value: 2/5 then, the most expensive out of this lineup. the switch is easy to recognize by its smoky black housing, which seems to give a lot of the incredible smoothness to the switch. the key stability looks bad this way, but i felt like it was the worst from the 5 that i tried. the RGB passthrough is a bit dark because of the housing, but does come through decently. lubing it gives it even a little more smoothness, rivalling it with the well-known and personally used Tealios. their weight unfortunately felt a bit heavy for me at bottom out for gaming, but would be very enjoyable if you're purely typing. because of their high price tag of at minimum 0,75 cents/switch, their value is of course not that high rated, but if you're looking for something really smooth and don't want to pay the premium for something like Tealios, this is the option to go for. Gallery: Kailh Box Black: Key stability: 5/5 RGB passthrough: 5/5 Lubing: 2/5 Sound: 3/5 Smoothness: 4/5 Weight: 3/5 value: 3/5 Kailh box black is a bit of a different formfactor, and takes it's name from it's "box" around the switch stem. because of this the key stability is simply unrivalled by the others. their RGB passthrough is also the best out of these switches, as Kailh used a transparent housing on the switch. the lubing is decent, but doesn't feel that needed on it compared to the others. their smoothness is decent, though the feeling between the actuation point and bottom out was for me hard to feel. as they're more expensive than the Gateron milk and regular black, I felt like a 3/5 value would be fair for it. Gallery: Cherry MX Black: Key stability: 2/5 RGB passthrough: 1/5 Lubing: 1/5 Sound: 1/5 Smoothness: 1/5 weight: 1/5 value: 1/5 It almost feels like i just chose these numbers to shit on cherry here... but this really was how I felt about it. the key stability of it is decent, but nothing special compared to Gateron, it's RGB passthrough on this version is about nothing, since the fully black switch blocks the light on my keyboard. the lubing made the already sandpaper-like feel of the switch even worse, which also gives a sound while you’re typing on it. the weight of it felt on the heavy side for me and because I have so many complaints, while this is the second most expensive switch in the line, the 1/5 value makes it a worse one than the most expensive switch in the lineup. Gallery: Verdict: Gateron Black: very cheap (~20c), decent weight for gaming and typing, smooth, worth lubing but recommended to get the RGB version if needed. Gateron Milk Black: cheap (~24c), nice weight for gaming and typing, relatively smooth, but a bit sand-like feel at stock, RGB passthrough not well. Gateron Ink Black: expensive (~75c), but the smoothest black switch out there, very nice clacky sound, RGB passthrough doable, but not ideal. Kailh Box Black: well-priced (~40c), extremely good key stabilization, pretty smooth, not that worthy to lube, RGB passthrough is good. Cherry MX Black: middle ground price (~40c), sandpaper-like feeling, mediocre sound, key stability, lubing makes the sand-like feel even worse, RGB gets completely blocked, so recommended is to get the RGB version.

Hello I recently bought a new AOC CQ27G2U/BK monitor, to use as main monitor next to my BENQ RL RL2455HM. Since I installed the monitor I occasionally have a screen going black for a second, and then the image returns. For the first few days this happened to the main AOC monitor. I figured it was maybe caused by a driver issue or g-sync issue of some sort. After updating the drivers and disabling g-sync the random blackscreen still returned. I also tried un/replugging the cables. This did not make any difference either. After the first few days however, now the random black screen occurs on the BENQ monitor? I haven't changed any settings since, so i'm not sure whats causing it. Before using the AOC monitor (using just the BENQ) I never had any issues. Full system specs below: CASE: Corsair Graphite 230T (2 stock intake fans, 1 stock rear exhaust and 1 extra top exhaust) SSD: 120GB Samsung 850 EVO HDD: 1000GB Toshiba 7200RPM + Western Digital Black WD2003FZEX 2TB PSU: Corsair VS Series VS650 MOBO: MSI B450 GAMING PLUS MAX RAM: Corsair DDR4 Vengeance LPX 2x8GB 3600 CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC MONITORS: AOC CQ27G2U/BK (main) & BENQ RL RL2455HM (second) Is there anything I can do to resolve this or what could be causing this issue? Thanks in advance! (If necessary I can upload a video of what the black screen looks like, I managed to capture it with my phone but it's a crappy video)

I have a build that I am simply upgrading from an i3-8100 with one of the super cheap H310M motherboards to an MSI B450M Gaming Plus and a Ryzen 5 3600. I have an EVGA 1060 6GB GPU, 16GB of RAM, an 80+ Bronze 450w PSU, and a typical samsung 850 500GB SSD. Like I said, I am just moving these parts from one motherboard to another and upgrading the CPU. Where I currently stand, the motherboard has been flashed to the latest version of its MS-7B87 BIOS with a newly formatted FAT32 16GB thumb drive with the file being renamed to MSI.ROM as stated in the manual. When I press the power button, the CPU fan, the two case fans, and the GPU fan turns on and stays on - except that the GPU fan turns off and on. The problem is that I cannot get the monitor to receive signal. When I plug in things such as my mouse, they power up. The EZ Debug light begins on the CPU and then quickly turns off before it switches to the VGA for a few moments longer in length. After that, it settles on the BOOT LED and stays on. What recommendations do you have? EDIT: I powered it off and on again and this time the LEDs cycled through the CPU, VGA, BOOT options three or four times before turning off entirely. However, the problem still persists. No signal to my monitor, which I have tested on another machine and have verified that the monitor and its cords are working normally.

So my other monitor is quite old(it's not 16:9, 1080p monitor, it's that kind of old) meaning i am using a VGA to HDMI adapter to hook it up to my rtx 2070 graphics card. When ever i plug in the monitor to the GPU the monitor shows the display on for about 2 seconds then goes completely black.

Hey guys so i'm going for a black and white themed setup I don't want to spend much more money but if you have any suggestions or feedback on the setup please let me know. i'm gonna use this setup for forza,cod,apex legnds,vr,gta v and that sorta thing. setup:https://au.pcpartpicker.com/user/AVSHegdehog/saved/

Hi guys, I was near finished swapping from an old PC Case to the q300l. I was happy after an hour of cable management turning the PC on everything worked normal. While letting the PC running, I wanted to tie all the zip ties which I let lose for adjusting something. Than the PC turned black and off. After deplugging the power and take out the battery, the Mainboard lighted up but the PC stayed dark. Even after around 10 min without battery and power. Do you have any idea what happened? I thought maybe I fried my CPU, because the Mainboard is lighted. Her are my spec's: Rzyen 3 2200g Asus prime b350m-a Crucial ballistics sport 2x4gb 2400 Crucial mx 500 (working, tested) Be quite system power 9 400w

Hey guys, I would like to get a new gaming PC but I only have a budget of around 1000€. I already have a good PSU and a good CPU cooler so I won´t have to get that. Thanks for your suggestions

Brand new PC that was just built yesterday. Everything works fine. But once updating the AMD drivers from the 17.1 that win10 automatically installs to the 19.1 or 19.2 drivers, the monitor goes black. It occurs right when your monitor flickers when installing new drivers. Upon rebooting, everything works fine, until roughly half way into booting into win10, the screen goes black. HDMI works fine, but I need the DP's for other monitors. I plugged in HDMI, tried dropping the resolution to 720p 60Hz, plugged DP back in, still black. I only have the one DP cable, ordered about 4 more, eta tomorrow. Any Doctors in the house that have any ideas to save the victim: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor $149.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler Corsair - H60 (2018) 57.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $50.91 @ Newegg Thermal Compound Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste $5.95 @ Amazon Motherboard Gigabyte - B450 AORUS PRO WIFI (rev. 1.0) ATX AM4 Motherboard $126.79 @ OutletPC Memory G.Skill - FORTIS 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory $85.98 @ Newegg Storage Crucial - MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $67.95 @ Amazon Video Card XFX - Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card $189.99 @ Amazon Case Cougar - MX330-X ATX Mid Tower Case $44.80 @ Newegg Power Supply EVGA - 700 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply $49.99 @ B&H Optical Drive Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer $19.89 @ OutletPC Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $98.89 @ OutletPC Case Fan ARCTIC - F12 PWM PST - Value Pack 74 CFM 120mm Fans $26.99 @ Amazon Monitor AOC - Q3279VWFD8 31.5" 2560x1440 60 Hz Monitor $248.48 @ Newegg Keyboard Logitech - K120 Wired Standard Keyboard $12.99 @ Newegg Mouse Logitech - G203 Prodigy Wired Optical Mouse $27.99 @ Amazon Other Edifier R19U Compact 2.0 Speakers Powered by USB Supports Windows 10 and Mac OS X 10.12 Sierra $29.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $1297.57 Mail-in rebates -$60.00 Total $1237.57 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-18 00:04 EST-0500

System: GPU: Radeon HD 7800 Ghost with 2 fans (7850 I assume) CPU: AMD FX-4130 (Quad-Core 3.80GHz) RAM: 16Gb OS: Windows 10 Home v.1803 (64-bit) Never been overclocked. And yes, it's ancient. Problem: I updated from 19.1.1 (the latest stable driver) to 19.3.2 (the latest optional). When installing got a black screen, however, I restarted the computer and it worked fine. Until today, when trying to startup got only a black screen after the Windows 10 logo. I got in with safe mode, uninstalled the drivers and no more black screen. However, when trying to install drivers, I get the black screen mid install (when you can hear unplugging sound and the screen goes black for a second and comes back, this now goes back to infinite blackness after it.). What I've tried: AMD Cleanup Utility and DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) to uninstall the drivers. HDMI and DVI monitors (at the same time, with only one, replugging in, etc.). Disabling firewall and antivirus software. Multiple driver versions (atleast these: 19.3.2, 19.3.1, 19.1.1, 18.12.2, 18.12.1.1, 18.12.1, 18.9.3, 17.7.1). Waiting. Thank you for reading! I hope someone can help me.

Hello, Yesterday I have been trying to fix a problem I still have on the Uplay client. I have been told by google searches that one of the fixes for this problem is to reset the hosts file (I have massed up there) I changed the hosts file to a .txt file and I can't put it back, I also changed what was in the file to something Ubisoft support wrote to put there now I ended up with two bad hosts files which are .txt files and I don't know how to put them back. while trying to see if I can fix that problem I realized my command prompt is not working, so I googled what can I do and I ended up opening a video that told me that I need to go to regedit and open HKEY_CURRENT_USER/Software/Microsoft/Command Processor open AutoRun and change the value data to 0. I finally thought I fixed the command prompt problem and everything was fine until I restarted my PC. After the restart I typed my password and I was greeted with command prompt and a black screen behind it. To use my PC normally I had to type explorer.exe in the command prompt which got me in my PC. Now the main issue is whenever I open my PC I'm greeted with command prompt and a black screen behind it. Another problem but not so major is to get my hosts files the way they were. Uplay issue Lastly, If anyone knows how to fix the problem I'm having on the Uplay client that would be great. The Uplay problem whoever is interested is whenever i try to open the Uplay client i get an error saying: Uplay has detected an unrecoverable error and must shutdown. Crash dump created at "C:/Program Files (x86)/Ubisoft/Ubisoft Game Launcher/crashes". To try and fix that problem I tried: Updating the Uplay client which means I uninstalled the Uplay client and reinstalled it (Didn't work). Trying to reset my hosts files (Which only got worse). Disabling my fire walls completely On the Uplay client problem all I did was to try and open the client nothing else to make it do what it did. Link to the Ubisoft support website i used to try and reset my hosts file https://support.ubisoft.com/en-AU/Faqs/000025462/Resetting-the-Hosts-file Please I need help I have no idea what to do I have tried everything I can other than factory reset which I really can't do. Added pictures of: The command prompt (Couldn't show the black screen The Uplay client error. The hosts files as .txt